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Troy_Bilt mower rough idle with auto choke
#2
pugaltitude
pugaltitude
#3
robert@honda
robert@honda
#4
Z
zeekstern
Z
zeekstern
Sounds like we have the same mower. Mine has the Honda engine. As I understand it, Troybilt uses several engines.
I agree with pugaltitude. I just spent yesterday taking mine off, cleaning it, and putting it back on, 3 times to be exact
) While I still don't have mine running, and can offer you a few tips if you also have the honda engine.
1. You'll notice the air cleaner has a very short hose and looks like you will never get it back on, once you take it off. Don't worry about it and take it off.
2. There were only 2 long bolts holding everything together on that honda. Once I removed them, everything fell off except the automatic choke thing, so you better take a good look at how everything is on there now, before you take it off. I bought mine at a yard sale and bet this guy had taken it off a couple of times, so I didn't get a good look and am now sorry I didn't. I don't think I put mine back together correctly.
3. The carb has 2 screws on it. One is a big one that is easy to see and is on top. Take that off and spray that real good. The other is in that long tube on the bottom and needs a small long screw driver. I was not able to get that one out completely, but I still sprayed the heck out of it. That was the second time I took the carb off, and once I sprayed inside there, my mower would start for a second or two and then shut off. That told me that my problem is definatly with the carb.
4. What kind of plug did you put in? The reason I ask is that mine had a NGK-BPR6ES in it. It was really burnt black. I found some doc online that said to use a NGK-BPR6ES only for power washers, and to use a NGK-BPR5ES for everything else.
Well, as you can probably tell, I'm no mechanic and am just starting out working with small engines) And the above probably won't help you if you don't have the Honda engines. I've seen several videos with other model engines that remove the carb, and it is nothing like what I went through. It looked real easy.
Oh, one last thing. There is something called a govenor rod or something like that. When I was trying to get mine to start, I would manually push it back and forth. When I did, it would rev up a little, then go back down. I don't know how that thing works because when you pull the handle back to start the mower, it doesn't move. Actually, on my mower, nothing moves when pulling that handle. I'm going to open another post about that since this is your thread.
Hope this helps, and good luck.
Zeek
I agree with pugaltitude. I just spent yesterday taking mine off, cleaning it, and putting it back on, 3 times to be exact
) While I still don't have mine running, and can offer you a few tips if you also have the honda engine.1. You'll notice the air cleaner has a very short hose and looks like you will never get it back on, once you take it off. Don't worry about it and take it off.
2. There were only 2 long bolts holding everything together on that honda. Once I removed them, everything fell off except the automatic choke thing, so you better take a good look at how everything is on there now, before you take it off. I bought mine at a yard sale and bet this guy had taken it off a couple of times, so I didn't get a good look and am now sorry I didn't. I don't think I put mine back together correctly.
3. The carb has 2 screws on it. One is a big one that is easy to see and is on top. Take that off and spray that real good. The other is in that long tube on the bottom and needs a small long screw driver. I was not able to get that one out completely, but I still sprayed the heck out of it. That was the second time I took the carb off, and once I sprayed inside there, my mower would start for a second or two and then shut off. That told me that my problem is definatly with the carb.
4. What kind of plug did you put in? The reason I ask is that mine had a NGK-BPR6ES in it. It was really burnt black. I found some doc online that said to use a NGK-BPR6ES only for power washers, and to use a NGK-BPR5ES for everything else.
Well, as you can probably tell, I'm no mechanic and am just starting out working with small engines
) And the above probably won't help you if you don't have the Honda engines. I've seen several videos with other model engines that remove the carb, and it is nothing like what I went through. It looked real easy.Oh, one last thing. There is something called a govenor rod or something like that. When I was trying to get mine to start, I would manually push it back and forth. When I did, it would rev up a little, then go back down. I don't know how that thing works because when you pull the handle back to start the mower, it doesn't move. Actually, on my mower, nothing moves when pulling that handle. I'm going to open another post about that since this is your thread.
Hope this helps, and good luck.
Zeek
#6
D
duppadogg
Thanks Zeek
D
duppadogg
Sounds like we have the same mower. Mine has the Honda engine. As I understand it, Troybilt uses several engines.
I agree with pugaltitude. I just spent yesterday taking mine off, cleaning it, and putting it back on, 3 times to be exact
1. You'll notice the air cleaner has a very short hose and looks like you will never get it back on, once you take it off. Don't worry about it and take it off.
2. There were only 2 long bolts holding everything together on that honda. Once I removed them, everything fell off except the automatic choke thing, so you better take a good look at how everything is on there now, before you take it off. I bought mine at a yard sale and bet this guy had taken it off a couple of times, so I didn't get a good look and am now sorry I didn't. I don't think I put mine back together correctly.
3. The carb has 2 screws on it. One is a big one that is easy to see and is on top. Take that off and spray that real good. The other is in that long tube on the bottom and needs a small long screw driver. I was not able to get that one out completely, but I still sprayed the heck out of it. That was the second time I took the carb off, and once I sprayed inside there, my mower would start for a second or two and then shut off. That told me that my problem is definatly with the carb.
4. What kind of plug did you put in? The reason I ask is that mine had a NGK-BPR6ES in it. It was really burnt black. I found some doc online that said to use a NGK-BPR6ES only for power washers, and to use a NGK-BPR5ES for everything else.
Well, as you can probably tell, I'm no mechanic and am just starting out working with small engines
Oh, one last thing. There is something called a govenor rod or something like that. When I was trying to get mine to start, I would manually push it back and forth. When I did, it would rev up a little, then go back down. I don't know how that thing works because when you pull the handle back to start the mower, it doesn't move. Actually, on my mower, nothing moves when pulling that handle. I'm going to open another post about that since this is your thread.
Hope this helps, and good luck.
Zeek
Thanks Zeek
#8
robert@honda
robert@honda
#10
robert@honda
That's close enough...the docs I posted earlier should include your engine. You can confirm by looking on top of the engine for the ARCS (Automatic Return Choke System) lever; your engine should NOT have one, and instead use the fully automatic choke system (no knobs, levers, or cables---fully automatic):
Here's what an engine with ARCS looks like:
robert@honda
That's close enough...the docs I posted earlier should include your engine. You can confirm by looking on top of the engine for the ARCS (Automatic Return Choke System) lever; your engine should NOT have one, and instead use the fully automatic choke system (no knobs, levers, or cables---fully automatic):
Here's what an engine with ARCS looks like:
#11
D
duppadogg
I Definitely have a Fully automatic choke system. It was plain as day on the label ACS. How blind can one guy be in one day? Right under my nose as I tipped and tilted. Geezes.
D
duppadogg
That's close enough...the docs I posted earlier should include your engine. You can confirm by looking on top of the engine for the ARCS (Automatic Return Choke System) lever; your engine should NOT have one, and instead use the fully automatic choke system (no knobs, levers, or cables---fully automatic):
Here's what an engine with ARCS looks like:
I Definitely have a Fully automatic choke system. It was plain as day on the label ACS. How blind can one guy be in one day? Right under my nose as I tipped and tilted. Geezes.