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Hello,
This is a super bronco v-twin power 21hp.
I am new here . This is my girlfriends family tractor.
About 3 months ago they said it would not start, so I came here with you alls help figured it was a dirty carb. So i pull and cleaned, worked like a charm. Now fuel just pours though it even when off and no battery. Help Help. Never rebuilt a carb before.
Thank you Mike

Sounds like the needle valve and/or seat is not sealing properly or possibly a sunk float. Engine make and numbers would be helpful. Briggs & Stratton use Nikki and Walbro carburetors and both have this same problem.

Lawnranger said:

Sounds like the needle valve and/or seat is not sealing properly or possibly a sunk float. Engine make and numbers would be helpful. Briggs & Stratton use Nikki and Walbro carburetors and both have this same problem.

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Tractor about 3.5 hrs away at thier lake house.
It is a briggs & Stratton.
Where on motor would I find the numbers?
Thank you Mike

Either on a tag on top of the blower housing, stamped into the blower housing if older engine, or stamped into the valve cover.

Make sure to check your oil level before starting the engine and if the level is overfull do not start the engine until you correct the fuel problem and change oil & filter. Gasoline can flood the carburetor while the engine is off and travel past the rings/valves into the crankcase. When gasoline gets into the crankcase the oil is thinned and looses its lubricating properties which could lead to major engine damage.

Do the two different carbs look alike or is there noticable difference between them?

I noticed the oil drain tube, it has a plastic cap on it. To drain the oil just remove the cap?

blue06van said:

Do the two different carbs look alike or is there noticable difference between them?

I noticed the oil drain tube, it has a plastic cap on it. To drain the oil just remove the cap?

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The Nikki has two screws that hold the fuel bowl on. The Walbro has LMT stamped into the carb body just above the fuel bowl and the fuel shutoff solenoid holds the fuel bowl on.

ILENGINE said:

The Nikki has two screws that hold the fuel bowl on. The Walbro has LMT stamped into the carb body just above the fuel bowl and the fuel shutoff solenoid holds the fuel bowl on.

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I have the Nikki then. It has two screws that hold the bowl on.

blue06van said:

I noticed the oil drain tube, it has a plastic cap on it. To drain the oil just remove the cap?

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To drain the oil it sure helps to have a one foot length of 1/2" PVC flexible plastic tubing which you can purchase at most hardware stores for around a dollar a foot. Have a drain pan and rags ready when you go to drain the oil. The part with the plastic cap is a quick release oil drain and you simply remove the cap, install the flex hose, place drain pan below hose and push in slightly while turning the larger outer black housing of the quick release drain fitting until it stops and then pull it out toward you which will start the oil draining. If the outer housing does not turn, try the other direction.

Allow the oil to drain for a long time, as long as possible. You want as much of the contaminated oil out of the system as possible. I usually set everything up and get it draining and then go do something else. Some people cannot multi-task and if you are one of those then just sit there and watch all that oil drain out.:laughing: If your engine is equipped with an oil filter you will need to change it as well. Most of the time the oil filter is on very tight and requires an oil filter wrench to loosen the filter. Once the filter is off, clean the area where the filter gasket makes contact with the engine and make sure the gasket did not stick to the engine. Before installing the new filter make sure to coat the gasket with clean engine oil so it seals well and is easier to remove next time. I usually fill the filter with new engine oil if the filter screws on vertically but if it is horizontal I will fill the filter about half way and screw it on quickly to avoid spilling oil. By filling the filter with oil the engine will develop oil pressure sooner and not have to run so long without oil pressure. Fill the engine with clean oil to the full mark and start the engine for at least ten seconds to fill the filter and provide oil pressure to the system. Shut down the engine and check/fill the oil level to full.

Please dispose of the used oil in a responsible manner.

Briggs & Stratton engines use straight 30 weight engine oil so make sure to buy at least two quarts so you have enough on hand. My personal rule of thumb is that if I need one, I buy two. If I need two, I buy three. You get it.

Have fun working on the mower and ask questions if you don't understand something.

Thank you for the procedure for changing the OIL.

Did they use different model Nikki carbs?

What should I look for once I remove the carb?
Will I need a rebuild kit?
Or will I need to replace the carb?

blue06van said:

Did they use different model Nikki carbs?

What should I look for once I remove the carb?
Will I need a rebuild kit?
Or will I need to replace the carb?

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You can attempt to repair or replace. If you go the replacement route you will save yourself a lot of time and frustration (potentially) due to the fact the if you do not have all the tools, knowledge, experience, etc. you will spend a lot of time & money acquiring all that you need and yes, you will need a carburetor kit. The two screws that hold the bowl on the Nikki carburetor are unbelievably tight for their size and many times people will use the wrong size screwdriver to remove them and damage them in the process. Once you get the bowl off, the carburetor is relatively simple but you must know what you are looking at, however youtube has some good videos (time investment) that you can educate yourself by watching. In this day and age of ethanol in our fuel you will want to use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the carburetor (financial investment) and Harbor Freight has a cleaner that I have used with good success. When you remove the bowl, take notice if there is a build-up of white or gray deposits. If you see a lot of deposit, do yourself a favor and replace the carburetor.

A new carburetor starts at around $100.00 give or take a little but you can bolt it on in minutes, drain all the old fuel from the tank first, put fresh fuel and a new air filter and be good to go. It's your choice and good luck either way you go.

Lawnranger said:

When you remove the bowl, take notice if there is a build-up of white or gray deposits. If you see a lot of deposit, do yourself a favor and replace the carburetor.

A new carburetor starts at around $100.00 give or take a little but you can bolt it on in minutes, drain all the old fuel from the tank first, put fresh fuel and a new air filter and be good to go. It's your choice and good luck either way you go.

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I have removed the bowl already a couple months back, it had a lot of red tarnish build up and grey scalei ish type stuff on the in side. i had used carb cleaner to remove red stuff, but grey stuff it did not remove.
Ran great for a couple months. For a cheap fix. But not looking towards accuiring a bunch of tools just for this one job. yes I know my man card went out the window.
So who would you recomend to buy a replacement carb from?

Thank you and ever one for helping me with this you have been outstanding!

Forgot had some pictures on cell phone , but none of motor. lol

If you want the peace of mind that comes with a no-cost warranty, go with your local dealer and pay a little more. If you want the rock bottom price with return shipping cost warranty, search the web. If there is less than ten dollars difference I'd go with the dealer for convenience sake.

Are these the engine part number? So i can order the carb.

The last picture in the above post is the numbers you will need. the first line of numbers is the Model Type, and the next line is the Code and serial number

Any one recommend a place to get replacement Carb. Local guy wants 180.00

briggs list the carb at $153, and the carb kit at $28. I think you would be better to install a kit, or have a repair shop do it for you. If you decide to to the repair yourself, make sure that you don't loose the jet in the bottom of the plastic tube that sits inside the float. they like to fall out when you are not looking.

Found needle valve and gastets local and installed fuel shut off.
No leaks and carb didnt flood. Battery on charger and will change oil thursday.
See if works?
Needle valve rubber tip is missing tip part and hard as a rock.

pic not to good.

Thanks for posting what you found. That was most likely the problem.

ILENGINE said:

make sure that you don't loose the jet in the bottom of the plastic tube that sits inside the float. they like to fall out when you are not looking.

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So its not just me that loses the jet!! :laughing:

pugaltitude said:

So its not just me that loses the jet!! :laughing:

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I can't count the time I have had to pick it up off the floor, even totally lost a couple.

Battery would not charge.
Almost a gallon oil/fuel mix drained out.
Dang gum oil filter stuck on. Got to try different style wrench tommowor.
Think will buy couple extra quarts of oil to flush it out some.
gettin closer.

Thank you all.

Flushed with a couple quarts oil.
Tried new battery wont turn over.
Put battery on charger took a very small charge .
Still wont turn over.
Pulled plugs, still wont turn over.
Pulled top flywheel cover, used socket to rotate motor, first 1/8th turn very tough. Shot some oil in cyclinders and spun it a couple turns. Then it would turn over.
Put plugs back in, it would turn over but not start. Tried a little fuel in air cleaner, kicked over, then died. pulled fuel shut off cylinoid wire and put back on. A little more gas and it fired up and ran.
Must have bent one of linkages, it wont low idle without full choke. ?
But no leaks.
Almost there.
Do need to get a front tire also.