Troy Bilt Horse 1979

[Mattmotors]

I hope Someone out there has been around long enough that has worked on these. Anyhow , I have a 1979 Troy Bilt Horse. 7 HP Kohler. 4 speed.
Tiller serial number 388425
Kohler 7HP K161T Ser 9588893. The engine is rock solid. Leave on idle , choke it . 2nd or 3rd pull it is running.
My problem is that I am leaking oil out of the front of the transmission. Drips on the floor and my reverse wheel is all wet.
I believe I have to replace part #9600 oil seal. BUT... to get to it, I think I have to remove the engine and the housing that the engine bolts onto.
It doesn't look hard, just a little time consuming.
Can someone shed some light on my upcoming project? This tiller is a beast. I bought it about 10 years ago for $150.00 Put a little love into it and I wouldn't trade it for anything. It is a performer. I would like to see it out last me.Thanks for all your help , Matt.

 

[StarTech]

I can't shed much light on this but yes the engine and its mounting frame has to come off. Getting those shift pins out will probably take a lot heat, a pin punch, and a large hammer if it is anything like the one I did last year. Just the customer to turn down the repair after I found what was wrong with the engine internally.

He actually was trying to get me to mount a HFT engine that he had brought but it had too large of a PTO shaft.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

I have worked on a bunch of the horse tillers. If it was me and you are replacing the input shaft seal i would go ahead and change the wheel and tine axle shaft seals. The biggest problem with the horse tillers is seals getting cut by stringy fiberous plants and water getting in the seals and pitting the shafts where the seals ride and new seals just get chewed up. If the tine holders haven't been off in A few years be ready fur some fun getting them off.

 

[hlw49]

While you are at it I would check the end play on the main shaft. Get the tines off the floor and rock them back and forth and watch the main shaft in the front where the pulley goes and see if it goes back and forth. Too much end play will pound the main shaft rear bearing out. You can adjust it by taking the rear cap off and adding shims between the end cap and the bearing.

 

[Mattmotors]

Update. I took the engine off. Supported the engine with a floor jack. Took the locking bolts out of the "King Pins"And griped them with Vise Grips. They came right out.. The pulley on the tiller end came right off too. Cleaned the front end so I could find my oil leak. I propped up the rear end (not normal Storage position) And it leaked out of the Neutral Plunger Item 60 on the parts diagram. I don't see a seal involved with the plunger nor do I want to remove it because of that spring. I cleaned up all the oil again and put it in normal position. Waiting to see what happens. Can someone explain the Neutral Plunger? When does it come into play? Thanks.

 

[hlw49]

Just what you said sets neutral. The engine bracket sits on top of it when in neutral. When you lift the handle to back up the engine bracket pushes down on the neutral plunger and compresses the spring so it will back up. I have seen the plungers freeze up so you will not have reverse.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

I have worked on a bunch of the horse tillers. If it was me and you are replacing the input shaft seal i would go ahead and change the wheel and tine axle shaft seals. The biggest problem with the horse tillers is seals getting cut by stringy fiberous plants and water getting in the seals and pitting the shafts where the seals ride and new seals just get chewed up. If the tine holders haven't been off in A few years be ready fur some fun getting them off.

Just had another one come in with leaking wheel and tine shaft seals. Looks like another $150 shaft.