I have a 2016 Troy-Bilt 46" Mustang Zero-Turn that i decided to clean the carburetor and ended up with a mower that only goes full speed. Originally I began a project where I was rebuilding the deck but since the mower was recently surging, I decided to clean the carburetor. I took the carb off and didn't take photos, but life got in the way and it was a few days before finishing the project. When I finally decided to put the carb back together, I realized that I wasn't 100% sure where the linkages went back to. I did my best, but now my mower revs up to full speed and I am unable to change it with the throttle lever. I am not sure how to proceed at this point....I think it is a good chance that i didnt hook the linkages back up right, but I am not too sure. What I thought was the idle lever, now no longer moves at all when I move the throttle. I can post photos if necessary, but I am hoping that this is a common problem. I have reset the governor, but I didn't think that was a problem since I only removed the carburetor....and there was no change in the behavior of the motor. Please help as I need to get this mower back up and running as I don't have a lot of free cash to throw at a repair shop.
I've also uploaded pictures of how I thought it went back together. I only removed the linkages to the carburetor, I never touched the governor springs. For a little more detail on what I did with the carb, I just removed the bowl and float and then cleaned/sprayed out jets and passageways. Is it possible to put it back together in a way that would cause this issue? Thanks for any help!
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The governor wants to push the throttle linkage towards the slow idle position the more revs you have slash create. Other than that some common sense should kick in and help you.
If you have reset the governor then you should know what you are doing???
As soon as I get it running again it will get a good bath and oil change. To be fair, I bought this mower from the previous homeowner and it was heavily neglected for years.....I am amazed it runs at all!
The governor wants to push the throttle linkage towards the slow idle position the more revs you have slash create. Other than that some common sense should kick in and help you.
If you have reset the governor then you should know what you are doing???
This is where there seems to be the issue. Nothing seems to want to push the throttle lever/idler spring forward and I cannot be sure that I have the linkage in correct position. There is no other obvious connection point for it that makes sense to me. I used a video that covered a governor reset and it seemed pretty straight forward....unclamp idler, full throttle, governer full clockwise, re-clamp governor. I am mechanically inclined but not a small engines repair expert. I have been unable to find a single diagram for this mower that covers the carburetor and governor linkages. Do you have any other advice on where I am going wrong on this linkage?
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I appreciate the links but I have been through these manuals multiple times. I cannot find a single diagram that goes over carburetor or governor. I have seen that there is a lot of crossover between these troy-bilts and MTD....I guess that MTD acquired them some time ago. Do you know if there is a direct equivalent MTD mower to this troy-bilt mustang? Maybe MTD keeps better documentation?
These are air cooled engines. If you keep running it like that (filthy), you will most likely damage the engine. Valves, push rods and so on issues. Clean the block like a NEW engine was installed. Then worry about your linkage issue.
Pics 2 and 3 are your throttle linkages. You can see in pic 3 where it would control the throttle valve on the carb. If you move that with your fingers, should raise the revs up. Connect your throttle cable there.
So I took the crank case off to confirm my suspicions and sure enough....the governor gear broke. Just bad timing in relation to cleaning my carb. I think I lucked out and there was no other damage to the other gears or shafts. That being said, when I took the crank case off, there was no gasket....just a super thin bead of silicon. Is that normal on these engines (mine is a 44N877-0007G1 with a date code of 160218YG)? When I went to search for parts, the only gasket set that came up said that it was for date codes before 15071600 with no other gasket sets showing. This engine has been a leaky mess since I bought it and it doesn't seem right to just use a bead of silicon.
Also, can I get a sanity check on the parts I'm ordering....make sure I am not missing something important that I should replace: Intake/exhaust gaskets, governor shaft seal, governor gear, governor bushing, and crank oil seal. Thanks for all the help....I promise, the engine is getting a good bath .