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I bought an used 2006 Troy-Bilt Pony (Model: 13AN77TG766) a week ago. It just needed a new battery, so I jump-started and ran it home (1/4 mile). Next day I changed the battery, Air-Filter and put some good gas. My lawn could had made Rambo shiver in fear, so I mowed it (1 acre) on the highest setting (#5 . It ran like a champ for almost 2 hours with NO problems whatsoever! Love the little thing! :biggrin:

Yesterday, I wanted to mow again at a a lower setting (#3). I mowed most of the back lawn and when I moved to the front (1 hour) when I had a snafu. Accidentally I hit the water meter casing (hard plastic)! The mower stopped immediately. AGHHH!!! MY BABY!!! I put the Unit in neutral and pull up the blades (PTO) before manually pushing the mower to my driveway. Upon inspection I could see a small dent in one of the blades, but nothing major (at least to my untrained eye.) The belts looked fine and there were no obvious leaks. I tried to restart the mower, the engine would turn but it would not start.

I let the Unit cool off 30 mins then I tried again. The Unit started, but the power was VERY diminished. It seems like it was not getting any gas. I noticed puffs of black smoke coming out from the front (muffler). Even at high throttle (Rabbit) the RPMs seemed low. I rode the mower a little. Not good. I engaged the blades (over concrete) and they seem slow too (obviously). Sad, I cleaned the Unit (had lots of old grass and dirt from previous owner) and put the mower away.

Next day (today) I want to make a post about the issue, so I decided to go and restart the Unit, so I could describe the stalling sound. Guess what? The evil machine started with low RPMs and all of the sudden... BRRROOOM!!!! It was just fine!?! I finished mowing the lawn (GASP!) and cleaned the Unit. I even restarted the Unit several times... all seems well!

I'm not questioning the miracle (heheh) but I would like to know what you guys suspect happened and why it got 'fixed'? Anything I can do to make sure the Unit is in optimal performance? I paid $400 for it (including new battery, retails for $1,050 +tax) so we figured that we need mow the lawn at least 10 times to break even on the investment. I'm staring to like this riding lawnmower thing... I may even start watering the lawn so the grass grows faster!

Anyhow... any advice would be appreciated. THANKS!

Sounds like you had a flooding problem or you may have sheared the flywheel key. Flooding would explain the black smoke and low power. I would definitely check the flywheel key. It may have spun 360 degrees and be back close to original position. Weirder things happen.

OK. Any instructions on how to check the flywheel? A picture would help. THANKS!

The only way to check the flywheel key is by pulling the flywheel.

Any ideas? I have mowed the lawn 2 times without a problem. Today, it did it again when I was going to start it. I changed the spark plug and gas filter. It started right away, but it was studding... almost no power.

What can I do? Where I can find instructions to do it? HELP!

If it is blowing black smoke I still say the the needle valve in the carb is sticking open. By replacing the needle you should be able to solve the problem. Post the engine model numbers and we will get you the part numbers you need.

Thanks for the quick response! I have:

2006 Troy-Bilt Pony
Model: 13AN77TG766
Serial: 1A056B30226
DOM: 1/2006

Are these the numbers you need? Anything else I can get you? Thanks for your help! :thumbsup:

Sorry I didn't get back to you yesterday, I need the numbers off the engine.

From the engine, I could only get the following numbers:

17.5 HP I/C OHV
Briggs & Stratton Corp.
Family: 6BXS.5012VP 276470

It also has 2 bar codes:
31C7070603E1
051031ZD21058

Hope this is the info you need. THANKS!

If you have a Walbro carb, I would replace the needle with part number #231855. If you have a Nikki carb , I would replace the needle with part number #696136. Hope this solves the problem.
If you need any other parts or a parts breakdown, you can use this website.
Lawn Mower Parts | Small Engine Repair | Lawn Mower Repair

Thanks for the info Rivets! :thumbsup: Sorry that it took so long, but I only have time on the weekends to work on this. *sigh*

I checked the Carb, and it is a Nikki. I went to the site and DL the schematics. VERY useful indeed! I then went to YouTube and watch lots of videos on how to clean the carb. I also found a GREAT site with nice pics... Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Briggs and Stratton Intek Single Cylinder OHV Nikki Carb

I removed the gas, disconnected battery, unplugged the fuel line and removed the selenoid on the bottom. I took the nuts holding the air intake fine, but the head of the screws are not star or flat... they are a type of hex I have never seen. Instead of just a hex 'hole' it seems to be just the border. Looks like it needs some kind of 'hollow hex key'. What is the right tool to remove those two screws so I can take the carb out? Thanks!

It's called a Torx head. Yes there is a special Torx socket or driver need to remove.

Thanks Rivets! I will look for the tool! You are a life saver. I will let you know about my misadventures!

I have the same model mower.
The problem I have run into is very similar to yours. A good cleaning of the carb including removing will normally fix the problem. What I try to do now is to drain all the gas prior to winter storage.

Time for update.

I took the Nikki carburetor out and cleaned it. It had some stuff inside, but not much. The needle seemed clean and loose. Upon assembly, it worked fine!!!

I mowed the lawn and all is good.

Then it happened again. Now it will not turn. So, I concluded that Rivet's initial suggestion had to be the problem; the flywheel's key. I don't have a pneumatic wrench nor a Puller to take it all out, so I will have to take it to a shop. With budget and time, I may learn how to pull that flywheel out and check the key position myself. But the jungle must be tamed... quick!

For those searching for more information on the Flywheel, key and keyslot, please check this website out: Sheared Flywheel Keys on Small Gas Engines, causes and repair

It explains clearly what they are and how to work on them. The site has also LOTS of other information and GREAT photos.

Special thanks to to my wife, who provided the link (above) and to Rivets, for assistance and patience. You make this community GREAT!

triad_cowboy said:

What I try to do now is to drain all the gas prior to winter storage.

Click to expand...

Be careful leaving the mower without gas for several months. The fuel line (hoses) will crack when dry. Instead, put some Ethanol-Free gas (1/4 gallon) for storage. Ethanol, when stored for long periods of time, will allow water condensation... which will create lots of troubles for you. This gas is the one recommended for boats. If you can't find Ethanol-Free gas (there is one station in my home town) then you can use one of the treatment additives that they sell at Lowes or Home Depot. I suggest you start a new thread and let the REAL experts in this forum to give you pointers... after all, I'm just a noob. :wink:

Fuel line is fairly cheap and easy to replace.....