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Transmission oils for Gravely 991078 Pro-Turn 160
#1
O
OAC
O
OAC
Not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I want to change the hydraulic fluid and filters on my Gravely Pro-Turn.
Dealer wants $191.00 for parts and $250.00 to do the hydraulic fluid change. Walmart has a 5 quart jug of Pennzoil for $16.47. Manual says use 20w-50, with SL API classification. The Jug of Pennzoil says "SAE" on it - can I still use it?
1 quart bottle at Autozone says, "Meets or Exceeds API SM Service Classification." Sure gets confusing.
Dealer wants $191.00 for parts and $250.00 to do the hydraulic fluid change. Walmart has a 5 quart jug of Pennzoil for $16.47. Manual says use 20w-50, with SL API classification. The Jug of Pennzoil says "SAE" on it - can I still use it?
1 quart bottle at Autozone says, "Meets or Exceeds API SM Service Classification." Sure gets confusing.
#2
RetiredGuns
Are you saying the Dealer wants nearly $450 for the entire job? That seems awfully expensive.
RetiredGuns
Not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I want to change the hydraulic fluid and filters on my Gravely Pro-Turn.
Dealer wants $191.00 for parts and $250.00 to do the hydraulic fluid change. Walmart has a 5 quart jug of Pennzoil for $16.47. Manual says use 20w-50, with SL API classification. The Jug of Pennzoil says "SAE" on it - can I still use it?
1 quart bottle at Autozone says, "Meets or Exceeds API SM Service Classification." Sure gets confusing.
Are you saying the Dealer wants nearly $450 for the entire job? That seems awfully expensive.
#3
O
OAC
O
OAC
Sorry for the confusion ... 191.00 parts and 250.00 total. No matter how they word it - they want 250.00 for the job - and I know the parts don't cost anywhere near $191.00 2 filters about $15 a piece, and the oil was $16.47 for 5 quarts - which is what I was told it would require.
#4
RetiredGuns
RetiredGuns
Seems about twice as expensive as would be reasonable. Looks like a rather easy DYI project.
#5
djdicetn
I have a 2012 Pro-Turn 152 with approx. 56 hours on it so I'm beginning to think about the first 75 hour trannie service. I was going to let the dealer do it, but according to another user on the forums and looking at the instructions in my Owner manual I will most likely do it myself(I was a little concerned about the "purge process", but I think I can handle it). Yes, 20w50 Pennzopil is exactly what I plan on using( I have a 1996 Chevy Silverado Z71 with 240k miles on it and have used Pennzoil 10w30 in it since I bought it new...oil consumption is still negligible). I found the HydroGear oil filters for $9.75 each(see link below). Mine has the ZT-3400 and would assume your 160 has the same. My dealer's Service Manager told me that if I wanted to bring my own oil and filters they would do the service(but he didn't elaborate on what the labor charge would be). My dealer has been great, selling me accessories at his Commercial customer pricing, but I am thinking this is something I can do. Hope this info helps!! Link for filers follows:
Hydro Gear 52114, Lawn Mower Parts Cross-Referencing
djdicetn
Not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I want to change the hydraulic fluid and filters on my Gravely Pro-Turn.
Dealer wants $191.00 for parts and $250.00 to do the hydraulic fluid change. Walmart has a 5 quart jug of Pennzoil for $16.47. Manual says use 20w-50, with SL API classification. The Jug of Pennzoil says "SAE" on it - can I still use it?
1 quart bottle at Autozone says, "Meets or Exceeds API SM Service Classification." Sure gets confusing.
I have a 2012 Pro-Turn 152 with approx. 56 hours on it so I'm beginning to think about the first 75 hour trannie service. I was going to let the dealer do it, but according to another user on the forums and looking at the instructions in my Owner manual I will most likely do it myself(I was a little concerned about the "purge process", but I think I can handle it). Yes, 20w50 Pennzopil is exactly what I plan on using( I have a 1996 Chevy Silverado Z71 with 240k miles on it and have used Pennzoil 10w30 in it since I bought it new...oil consumption is still negligible). I found the HydroGear oil filters for $9.75 each(see link below). Mine has the ZT-3400 and would assume your 160 has the same. My dealer's Service Manager told me that if I wanted to bring my own oil and filters they would do the service(but he didn't elaborate on what the labor charge would be). My dealer has been great, selling me accessories at his Commercial customer pricing, but I am thinking this is something I can do. Hope this info helps!! Link for filers follows:
Hydro Gear 52114, Lawn Mower Parts Cross-Referencing
#6
O
OAC
O
OAC
Your dealer seems like a good one .... like he's not trying to "rake" you for every penny to turn a big profit.
#7
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acacia987
A
acacia987
after researching the crap out of zero turns, the hardest thing about this service to me is raising the back tires off the ground in order to purge the hydros correctly. Are you guys planning on using synthetic?
#8
djdicetn
Just a clarification on something I have recently learned(from Gravely Support). Even though my Owner Manual "recommends" jacking the rear wheels off the ground to purge it is not "necessary". The Gravely FAQ article for changing the hydro oil/filter has no mention of jacking up the rear wheels. It specifically states for purging(after the draining/changing filter/re-filling with oil:
1)Install the expansion tank cap and then purge the system, by putting the transmission(s) bypass levers in neutral position, start up the engine and maneuver the steering levers forward and reverse slowly 5 to 6 times.
2)Stop the engine and re-engage the bypass levers, and re-perform the previous step.
3)Stop the engine again and check the oil level; add oil as needed to bring the level up to the cold line on the expansion tank.
My Pro-Turn 152 is very easy to lift the rear wheels off the ground using a hydraulic floor jack and a 2" X 8" board underneath the engine guard, so most likely I'll go with the "recommended" procedure. But Gravely Customer Support confirmed that it is not "necessary". Just thought you would like to know that.
P.S.
I don't want to start a conventional oil/synthetic oil heated debate but HydroGear recommends 20w50 conventional oil and that's what I'll use. The Gravely Owner Manual doesn't mention it, but the Gravely FAQ states that 15w50 Synthetic motor oil can be used as an Alternative oil. IMHO, synthetic is more expensive than it is "better than conventional".
djdicetn
after researching the crap out of zero turns, the hardest thing about this service to me is raising the back tires off the ground in order to purge the hydros correctly. Are you guys planning on using synthetic?
Just a clarification on something I have recently learned(from Gravely Support). Even though my Owner Manual "recommends" jacking the rear wheels off the ground to purge it is not "necessary". The Gravely FAQ article for changing the hydro oil/filter has no mention of jacking up the rear wheels. It specifically states for purging(after the draining/changing filter/re-filling with oil:
1)Install the expansion tank cap and then purge the system, by putting the transmission(s) bypass levers in neutral position, start up the engine and maneuver the steering levers forward and reverse slowly 5 to 6 times.
2)Stop the engine and re-engage the bypass levers, and re-perform the previous step.
3)Stop the engine again and check the oil level; add oil as needed to bring the level up to the cold line on the expansion tank.
My Pro-Turn 152 is very easy to lift the rear wheels off the ground using a hydraulic floor jack and a 2" X 8" board underneath the engine guard, so most likely I'll go with the "recommended" procedure. But Gravely Customer Support confirmed that it is not "necessary". Just thought you would like to know that.
P.S.
I don't want to start a conventional oil/synthetic oil heated debate but HydroGear recommends 20w50 conventional oil and that's what I'll use. The Gravely Owner Manual doesn't mention it, but the Gravely FAQ states that 15w50 Synthetic motor oil can be used as an Alternative oil. IMHO, synthetic is more expensive than it is "better than conventional".
#9
A
acacia987
the Hydro-gear service manual also "recommends" it.I wont have to service mine for 2 years, so hopefully there will be some more input into the oil discussion.After the first service i believe its every 400 hrs, which in my case will be like 6-8 years. So if its conventional, synthetic (which i get on sales for the same price as reg), or something new and specific to hydros i will prob end up getting whatever is the most highly recommended regardless of price.
Not to say im just going to blindly spend the most amount of money, but the reality is whats a couple extra bucks over 8 years.
A
acacia987
Just a clarification on something I have recently learned(from Gravely Support). Even though my Owner Manual "recommends" jacking the rear wheels off the ground to purge it is not "necessary"..
the Hydro-gear service manual also "recommends" it.I wont have to service mine for 2 years, so hopefully there will be some more input into the oil discussion.After the first service i believe its every 400 hrs, which in my case will be like 6-8 years. So if its conventional, synthetic (which i get on sales for the same price as reg), or something new and specific to hydros i will prob end up getting whatever is the most highly recommended regardless of price.
Not to say im just going to blindly spend the most amount of money, but the reality is whats a couple extra bucks over 8 years.
#10
djdicetn
To me...what the manufacturer ships their trannies with is an indication of what they "recommend". I understand that a lot of newer automobiles are now being sold new with synthetic or synthetic blend in the engines, but that's an automobile engine. When HydroGear begins delivering their hydro trannies with other than conventional oil, I'll consider changing to the "recommended lubricant". That's my story and I'm sticking to it!! FYI....discussing oil on the forums is banned..........just kidding:0) If you do a forum search you can find some pretty "heated discussions" about conventional versus synthetic and it almost ALWAYS triggers argumentative posts by supporters on both sides of the fence!!!!
djdicetn
the Hydro-gear service manual also "recommends" it.I wont have to service mine for 2 years, so hopefully there will be some more input into the oil discussion.After the first service i believe its every 400 hrs, which in my case will be like 6-8 years. So if its conventional, synthetic (which i get on sales for the same price as reg), or something new and specific to hydros i will prob end up getting whatever is the most highly recommended regardless of price.
Not to say im just going to blindly spend the most amount of money, but the reality is whats a couple extra bucks over 8 years.
To me...what the manufacturer ships their trannies with is an indication of what they "recommend". I understand that a lot of newer automobiles are now being sold new with synthetic or synthetic blend in the engines, but that's an automobile engine. When HydroGear begins delivering their hydro trannies with other than conventional oil, I'll consider changing to the "recommended lubricant". That's my story and I'm sticking to it!! FYI....discussing oil on the forums is banned..........just kidding:0) If you do a forum search you can find some pretty "heated discussions" about conventional versus synthetic and it almost ALWAYS triggers argumentative posts by supporters on both sides of the fence!!!!
#11
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OAC
O
OAC
Thanks, djdicetn, for your information. I purposely have been putting off the job (it's now overdue) because I don't know how to get the rear wheels off the ground without damaging the bottom of the mower. So your info in post #8 is really helpful. No more looking for a brick wall to drive up against, etc. Still amazed at that $250 price tag that the dealer wants for the service. I'll bet you'd be a really good neighbor.
#12
djdicetn
No problem, glad I could help. So you're a bit over the recommended 75 hour first hydro service? Probably not a problem if you do it within 100 hours or so. If you are going to jack up the rear with a floor hydraulic jack like I did(using a 2" x 8" board placed under the engine guard, up against the heat shield), I would still consider having the front wheels secured with wheel chocks on both sides. I didn't do that when I installed my striper kit and removed the rear wheels but I didn't get on the mower, start it up and engage the wheels in motion either. It would pay to be extra safe(that's why they recommend driving it up against a wall to keep it from moving). Let us know how it goes.
djdicetn
Thanks, djdicetn, for your information. I purposely have been putting off the job (it's now overdue) because I don't know how to get the rear wheels off the ground without damaging the bottom of the mower. So your info in post #8 is really helpful. No more looking for a brick wall to drive up against, etc. Still amazed at that $250 price tag that the dealer wants for the service. I'll bet you'd be a really good neighbor.
No problem, glad I could help. So you're a bit over the recommended 75 hour first hydro service? Probably not a problem if you do it within 100 hours or so. If you are going to jack up the rear with a floor hydraulic jack like I did(using a 2" x 8" board placed under the engine guard, up against the heat shield), I would still consider having the front wheels secured with wheel chocks on both sides. I didn't do that when I installed my striper kit and removed the rear wheels but I didn't get on the mower, start it up and engage the wheels in motion either. It would pay to be extra safe(that's why they recommend driving it up against a wall to keep it from moving). Let us know how it goes.