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Toro Z5035 wont start

#1

L

Les' ZTR

I have a Toro Z5035 with the Kawasaki 24hp motor FR691V. I have had it for 12 years. Ever since I purchased it it goes through spells where it will not turn over. I can hook my truck to it to jump it or completely charge the battery. It just will not turn over. I've had it serviced twice for this problem but it always starts happening again. I've pulled 1 of the plugs out & it'll turn over with no problem. Has anyone else had this problem with this motor? Any solutions would be appreciated


#2

T

The Specialist

If you removed the one spark plug, and it turns over, that tells me that a valve is not opening up and the engine is compression locking. Take the valve cover off, and make sure that the rocker arms are actually on the valve. Adjust to .005-.006 clearance. I would also check the other side while you are at it. To adjust the valves, have the piston at the top of the cylinder and on the compression/power stroke cycle. How you can determine this, both rocker arms should move.


#3

L

Les' ZTR

Thank you very much. I’ll definitely give this a try.


#4

L

Les' ZTR

The Specialist said:
If you removed the one spark plug, and it turns over, that tells me that a valve is not opening up and the engine is compression locking. Take the valve cover off, and make sure that the rocker arms are actually on the valve. Adjust to .005-.006 clearance. I would also check the other side while you are at it. To adjust the valves, have the piston at the top of the cylinder and on the compression/power stroke cycle. How you can determine this, both rocker arms should move.
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#5

L

Les' ZTR

I adjusted the valves today. It started up pretty quickly. It’s running much better too. Thanks again for your help


#6

7394

7394

Cool Beans.


#7

T

The Specialist

Les' ZTR said:
I adjusted the valves today. It started up pretty quickly. It’s running much better too. Thanks again for your help
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NO problem!!


#8

A

awkerper

The Specialist said:
If you removed the one spark plug, and it turns over, that tells me that a valve is not opening up and the engine is compression locking. Take the valve cover off, and make sure that the rocker arms are actually on the valve. Adjust to .005-.006 clearance. I would also check the other side while you are at it. To adjust the valves, have the piston at the top of the cylinder and on the compression/power stroke cycle. How you can determine this, both rocker arms should move.
Click to expand...
I was thinking the same thing. One way to find TDC is to insert a screwdriver through the spark plug hole until it rests on top of the piston and then slowly turn the engine over BY HAND until the screwdriver stops rising. Then the Piston is at the top of its stroke. I had a similar problem with a recoil start engine that would kick back horribly when I tried to start it. The valve clearance adjustment has to be surprisingly accurate in order for the engine to work. In my case, the stud upon which the rocker sits had started unscrewing itself, which raised the rocker to a higher position and caused an exhaust valve to open late. This effectively created a second compression stroke and prevented the engine from turning over enough to start. The kickback was so bad that it ripped the starter cord right out of my hand and slammed into the housing hard enough to break the starter assembly.


#9

R

ragain's repair service

Les' ZTR said:
I have a Toro Z5035 with the Kawasaki 24hp motor FR691V. I have had it for 12 years. Ever since I purchased it it goes through spells where it will not turn over. I can hook my truck to it to jump it or completely charge the battery. It just will not turn over. I've had it serviced twice for this problem but it always starts happening again. I've pulled 1 of the plugs out & it'll turn over with no problem. Has anyone else had this problem with this motor? Any solutions would be appreciated
Click to expand...


#10

R

ragain's repair service

if this is water cooled engine there is probably antifreeze getting on top of piston and locking it up until antifreeze leaks by the rings you could have cracked head or block or leaking headgasket also check for warpage of head or block when engine sets long enough coolant will slowly leak by the rings you need to drain the oil when it is hot and you can determine if there is coolant in the oil


#11

L

Les' ZTR

ragain's repair service said:
if this is water cooled engine there is probably antifreeze getting on top of piston and locking it up until antifreeze leaks by the rings you could have cracked head or block or leaking headgasket also check for warpage of head or block when engine sets long enough coolant will slowly leak by the rings you need to drain the oil when it is hot and you can determine if there is coolant in the oil
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No it’s an air cooled engine. I can fully charge the battery then I have to hook jumper cable from my truck & it’ll start. I’ve checked the voltage after I charge it & it’s over 12 volts but it’s not enough to get it to start. I’ve replaced the battery & battery cables too


#12

7394

7394

Les' ZTR said:
I can fully charge the battery then I have to hook jumper cable from my truck & it’ll start. I’ve checked the voltage after I charge it & it’s over 12 volts but it’s not enough to get it to start. I’ve replaced the battery & battery cables too
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And volts should be at least 12.5 V......

Get the battery "Load Tested" sounds like you have volts, but not Amps. If you don't have tester, Auto Parts can test it for FREE.


#13

L

Les' ZTR

7394 said:
And volts should be at least 12.5 V......

Get the battery "Load Tested" sounds like you have volts, but not Amps. If you don't have tester, Auto Parts can test it for FREE.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I didn’t know they’d test it for free


#14

T

The Specialist

Once you get the battery load tested, if it fails, put in a new one. When you get the battery back in the machine, start it up and put a volt meter across the battery. With it running, you should have 13+ volts coming off the stator to charge the battery. If you only have battery voltage, your charging (stator or voltage regulator) are not working and will need to be checked.


#15

L

Les' ZTR

Thank you so much. I was wondering what type of charging system the mower has


#16

7394

7394

Les' ZTR said:
I didn’t know they’d test it for free
Click to expand...
Yes they do..


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