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Toro SS 5000 Electronic Brake Won't Release

#1

Gooser

Gooser

I've got a Toro SS5000 model number 74631. It starts but the electronic brake won't release. This spring the starter was stuck so I replaced the battery and starter. Now it starts but the E brake is stuck. I have replaced the electronic brake module, the solenoid, the switch and the two switches under the control handles. If I manually release the brake as soon as i turn the ignition on the brake sets again and will not release. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


#2

R

Rivets

Something is not hooked up correctly, or you may have gotten a wrong part when you started throwing parts at it, instead of going through a troubleshooting procedure. Here is the service manual which should help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/78978


#3

StarTech

StarTech

IF the module got blown again Toro will not honor the part warranty if you did not replace the wiring harness. Usually the weather proof will corrode due to water getting into the connector which isn't supposed to happen but it does anyways.

I had replace a brand new controller and the part vendor tired to get out of the warranty too by saying that I had to replace the harness. I had them there as I also brought and replace the harness at the same time. That first replacement module went up in smoke just sitting on the repair yard.

I have since order the connector housing and the terminals so I just replaced the bad harness end now. No replacing the whole harness when you can repair it.


#4

Gooser

Gooser

I appreciate all the help and I'm not trying to be an ass but i'm just really frustrated. If I knew how to trouble shoot it correctly I wouldn't have "thrown parts at it". I can't begin to tell you that if I could afford to pay the $80 an hour to have it worked on I would of done it already. I'm not totally inept but this one is way above my head for some reason. I unhooked the E brake completely. Everything will then run and work correctly. But I have a drain on the battery and when it gets low it just shuts off. I tried unplugging different plugs on the harness but i still have a drain. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I may try or where to turn. Thanks


#5

R

Rivets

Have you looked at section 7 of the manual I attached? It does list two U-tube videos on troubleshooting the control module.


#6

Gooser

Gooser

Have you looked at section 7 of the manual I attached? It does list two U-tube videos on troubleshooting the control module.
I did but neither video link worked. I've spent hours searching youtube but almost all the videos are how to bypass the E-brake not diagnose it.


#7

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Every electrical problem I have had with that e brake system was bad connections with pins in the connector to the module. Not easy to test either. If the brake doesn't release when the levers are pulled in the module may not be sensing them. I am not a fan of that system.


#8

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Every electrical problem I have had with that e brake system was bad connections with pins in the connector to the module. Not easy to test either. If the brake doesn't release when the levers are pulled in the module may not be sensing them. I am not a fan of that system.


#9

Gooser

Gooser

Every electrical problem I have had with that e brake system was bad connections with pins in the connector to the module. Not easy to test either. If the brake doesn't release when the levers are pulled in the module may not be sensing them. I am not a fan of that system.
Is this something that could be repaired or does the whole wiring harness get replaced?


#10

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

One I was able to clean and get working another was a hack job to save customer money.


#11

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

I can understand your frustration. Hopefully you can understand why shops charge $80 an hour to diagnose and repair your problems. The tools, skills, and experience that a good small engine mechanic have are of value. The cost saves your time, frustration, and parts that are often thrown at a problem in an attempt to fix it.


#12

StarTech

StarTech

Please refer to the service manual for testing. You must have a DVMM to do the testing.

When it comes to repairing the harness you must have the proper tools. And the MX150 12P connector is particular easy to screw up. For a DIYer it is best to just replace the whole harness. And not dielectric is not to be used. It will cause problem in itself per Toro.

The Molex MX150 series repair instructions are available @ https://drive.google.com/file/d/144KvAhQFZYznSQAxZYKDcaP3LV5N4bvG/view?usp=drive_link

Info on the connector.
1717152907141.png

As said the tools are expensive for an one time repair. Even most small shops won't invest in them. I did but it because I do a lot electrical repairs where other shops have royally screw up the harnesses. And that it is lower in cost to just repair the harnesses when you do have the tools. Even at this I have only used the tools a few times in the last five years.


#13

Gooser

Gooser

I can understand your frustration. Hopefully you can understand why shops charge $80 an hour to diagnose and repair your problems. The tools, skills, and experience that a good small engine mechanic have are of value. The cost saves your time, frustration, and parts that are often thrown at a problem in an attempt to fix it.
I totally understand why they charge what they charge. It's worth it and then some. The money is honestly not the only issue. First of all I couldn't move it until I got the brake released and the shop I bought my mower from recently closed and now the closest repair shop is over an hour away and when I spoke to them they said they couldn't get to it any time soon. I assure you I would rather not be dealing with it.


#14

Gooser

Gooser

Please refer to the service manual for testing. You must have a DVMM to do the testing.

When it comes to repairing the harness you must have the proper tools. And the MX150 12P connector is particular easy to screw up. For a DIYer it is best to just replace the whole harness. And not dielectric is not to be used. It will cause problem in itself per Toro.

The Molex MX150 series repair instructions are available @ https://drive.google.com/file/d/144KvAhQFZYznSQAxZYKDcaP3LV5N4bvG/view?usp=drive_link

Info on the connector.
View attachment 68798

As said the tools are expensive for an one time repair. Even most small shops won't invest in them. I did but it because I do a lot electrical repairs where other shops have royally screw up the harnesses. And that it is lower in cost to just repair the harnesses when you do have the tools. Even at this I have only used the tools a few times in the last five years.
Thank you! A new harness is only $150. If it turns out to need a plug it would probably make more sense to replace the harness which is what the repair shop would do anyway.


#15

StarTech

StarTech

Yes most shops would just do that as their techs are just more on the parts replacer type. There is just not that many of us that actually do real repairs left.

Besides the last time I brought one those harnesses I paid only $95 but that was back in 2020. Even My current supplier it is $128 plus shipping.


#16

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Yes most shops would just do that as their techs are just more on the parts replacer type.
I resemble that remark.


#17

Gooser

Gooser

Just wanted to update everyone in case anyone else has this problem. I replaced the wiring harness and that did the trick. It was the plug for the electronic brake that was defective. I can see why they recommend to replace it when you replace the e-brake. I appreciate everyone's help.


#18

StarTech

StarTech

For any shop that wish to just repair this by replacing the connector housing and terminals I have the info available. But it is just not cost effective for a DIYer to do so.


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