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I have a Toro 22" rear drive Recycler with a Briggs 6.75 motor (190cc).
Winterised (stabaliser in fuel), electric start battery fully charged, fresh gas put in, new plug, have spark......STILL won't start by key or pull start ( have even tried engine start spray). When plug is removed after only a few pulls it's soaking wet and the motor is probably flooded. How do I find the carb adjustment on thi engine and what do I adjust it to lean it out? I think that's the problem but would like some help. The engine number is 126T05-0219 B1 07092757.
Appreciate any help.

Results Adjust valves.


https://www.google.com/search?q=adj...j0.36457j0j8&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=0&ie=UTF-8


Check out page 8 carburetor adjustment in operators manual engine.

Seen it too many times, no need to adjust the valve, they are not the problem. Remove the carb, disassemble and either have it ultrasonicly clean or give it a 24 hour bath. Reassemble with a new float needle and seat and you should be go to go. Here is a procedure which I use.

Needle and seat replacement

Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.

I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.

With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.

PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.

Thanks Rivetts....unfortunately I have done all you suggested, new needle and seat, carb. cleaner and air,new plug, re -assembled and still will not start. There is a small fuel leak out of one side of the carb...at the bottom as you look at it it seems to be weeping out of the hole marked in the photo...I have taken the bowl off and reseated the o ring. As you can see, when held upside down the float is not level with the carb....is this a problem?
Thanks for the quick response....much appreciated.

Just a quick update.... I disassembled the float bowl again and replaced the o-ring, the small leak has stopped. It would have been sucking air through this...no? Would that explain no starting?

The fuel was leaking because the needle and seat was not sealing and allowing the carb to over fill with fuel and the easiest place to go out was that "hole".

The thermostat for the ready start could be sticking, not working, or not adjusted properly.
It should be free and spring easily.
On the black air vane on the exhaust side is notches.
The thermostat should be adjusted in between these notches.

Or

How did you check spark as that might be your problem. You should use a spark tester and not ground plug against cylinder.

You said the plug was wet so if spark it should fire.

Thanks pugaltitude....yes, I checked the spark by holding against th engine block. The Briggs spark testers are available but they want $30 for them
You mention the thermostat....where would I find a diagram that would tell me where that is, and how would I check it?
Thanks

Your engine is too old to have the new thermostat choke system.

That engine is probably one of first and so will have the early thermostat
It is a ready start carb because if you look at the 1st pic on the left is the shoulder of the carb that holds the vane on and the choke plate is the ready start type.
Parts list also shows it could be ready start.

Pug, you are correct. My brain must be getting foggy, I thought the easy start came out in 2009.

So guys..........what should I do next? I still don't know where I would find the thermostat that Pug is talking about,or what I should do to test/fix it?

trooper1954 said:

So guys..........what should I do next? I still don't know where I would find the thermostat that Pug is talking about,or what I should do to test/fix it?

Click to expand...

Did you remove a black air vane (small bolt in a plastic part that moves) and spring when removing the carb.

You have to remove the fuel tank and engine cover.
The thermostat is under these and connected to the exhaust.
When the engine is cold the choke is on and once running and engine heats up then the thermostat moves the choke accordingly to engine temp.
There is a slight adjustment on the air vane at the exhaust side.
The thermostat has a what looks like a "&" at the top.
it can be bent so it is in between the 4 notches on the black air vane.
I would start easiest thing 1st and check your spark correctly.
The spark plug cap should be made of metal.
The early ones were common for failing.
They can be replace with a normal terminal and boot.

Thanks Pug...yes, there is a black plastic vane...I removed the screw but left the spring hooked up while I removed the carb. Is this what you mean? This does not move freely...it seems to be sticking?
Thanks

Yes that is the thermostat.

It should be springy but move freely.

What happens is they either dont give enough choke as its stuck when cooling down or it keeps the choke on too long and then floods the engine.

The adjustment is the 4 notches on the black air vane.

Pug.....are these the adjustment notches your referring to? I cannot find any other marks on the black plastic vane...and FYI when the vane and the arm from the thermostat are disconnected they both move very freely.....how are the two supposed to be connected?

This is originally where the arm from the thermostat was hooked up, but there doesn't seem to be much of a connection....just seems to hook in place?

Yes they are the notches.

Assuming that the vane and the thermostat are in rest position and the engine is cold then it does look close to the correct adjustment.

The top of the thermostat may require a slight adjustment from right to left in the pic so the curved edge is in between the notches.

You then push it in to engine or out of engine to line up with the other notches.

It does not hook onto anything.

When you push the thermostat to open the choke, when you let go it should then spring back to close choke.

Its quite a simple design but adjustment has to be right.

I still think you may have a spark issue.

Hmmmmm.....the reason I asked the question about where the arm from the thermostat hooked up to the black vane was simply because when I took it apart, it was hooked on to the vane in the very top corner. Perhaps this has been the issue all along. Just so I'm clear, the arm from the thermostat and the black plastic vane SHOULD NOT be linked together....they work independently??
Thanks for your patience with this BTW.

BTW....the arrow in the previous post was where the arm from the thermostat was hooked on/joined to the vane.

You should be able to move the air vane by hand to take choke off and then push thermostat across to vane.
Let go of thermostat which should spring back.
Let go of air vane which should spring back.
Both should not be joined together but the thermostat should be allowed to push vane.

pugaltitude said:

Yes they are the notches.

Assuming that the vane and the thermostat are in rest position and the engine is cold then it does look close to the correct adjustment.

The top of the thermostat may require a slight adjustment from right to left in the pic so the curved edge is in between the notches.

You then push it in to engine or out of engine to line up with the other notches.

It does not hook onto anything.

When you push the thermostat to open the choke, when you let go it should then spring back to close choke.

Its quite a simple design but adjustment has to be right.

I still think you may have a spark issue.

Click to expand...

Hi, Have a Snapper with Briggs & Stratton 7.25 EX MFG in 2013 model number stickers torn away from mower, but steel plate number on engine is (128m02-0989-f1 13081958).
My neighbor gave me this lawnmower, because he was frustrated with it running sometimes and not other times. Anyway going to clean every thing up so took off carb and linkage and the plastic arm from thermostat seemed very loose and floaty. So I removed steel cover to get a better look and appears just to be sitting there hooked up to nothing, just sitting on top of the coil.... I have no idea how to reassemble this other than the connection to the carb. Is it supposed to be sitting on top of the coil touching it?
I've seen the pics in this thread. I'm assuming it has to be re-hooked to the carb and spring to do any kind of adjustment to the black vane, but I gather it is not hooked to the other side by the thermostat by what I've seen here. Does it just lay across the motor on top of coil? What stops it from going into the flywheel? Can't seem to find a user manual or diagrams without the model number of mower. Any help appreciated....I'm brand new here so please excuse any mistakes...

The AutoChoke airvane is bolted to the carb and should move freely. It’s job is to close the choke for cold starting, that is the job of the return spring. When the engine starts the air flow will open the choke and when the engine is warm the thermostat will keep the choke open. The pictures in this thread show where the spring is attached and how the thermostat should be adjusted when the engine is cold.