I changed the spark plug and checked to make sure it's getting current. I put in fresh gas. Has fresh oil. I removed the float bowl and cleaned the main jet. The throttle springs are OK. All I get is a few pops when I pull the starter cord. The only thing I noticed that's different than other winters is that I left the switch in the on position. I don't see why that would matter.
Has B&S 120102 Type 3256 7.0 engine. No self start so no battery.
Is there anything else I can check before taking it in for service?
Thanks.
#2
sgkent
put a little fresh gas on the air filter or in the carb throat and see if it starts. On some models you can remove the air filter to expose the carb, pump the primer bulb and see if gasoline squirts. I usually put a small squirt of gasoline in the carb throat and see it that makes it better or worse.
Looks like not many people come by this forum anymore. Yours is really as simple question. Hope that helps. Also, I have found with my engines that the very best way to start them is to pull the engine thru one time before trying to start it. That helps clean out the cylinder if it is a bit flooded. Then I prime it. Next - I pull the rope out not too fast until I feel it get firm. It is like the engine wants to lock up. Then I pull hard and it starts right up. If it goes all the way out almost before that spot, I let the rope back in and pull firm. Before that I might pull six or eight times before it started. Now once it gets firm I know that the mixture is ready to fire the next full cycle. Starts 1st or 2nd pull each time.
Thanks. My engine has no primer bulb. But I plan to remove the carb and clean the whole thing. Saw a video of it being done on Youtube with my engine. Not too hard.
Please double check your engine model number, as 120102 does not show up. Or you can post the serial number for the mower and I can cross reference the engine, as there were any few different engines used depending on the year of manufacture.
With that carb I’m guessing that either the float level has dropped due to a swollen float seat or the idle circuit is clogged. I would be pulling the carb and check the float level and if it is level I would soak the carb for 24 hours or have it ultrasonicly cleaned
I cleaned the carb by spraying brake cleaner through all the jets and the body. It started running for a second or two after several pulls. Then on the third or fourth try it ran for a minute or so but very rough, then died. Now it won't start. This time the float bowl gasket came off when I reassembled it. I noticed that it had sealant originally holding it in place. Since I have no sealant, I just put it back on the bowl (its a bit oversized) and put the bowl back on. The bowl did appear to seal well. So I don't know if this may be a factor.
I’m not a fan of using brake cleaner on carbs, I only use carb cleaner. Did you check the float level? Turning the carb upside down the float should be level with the carb body or slightly lower on the side opposite the float pin. If the float is level I would be soaking the carb.
#11
sgkent
what Rivets said. It sounds like your mower is not getting the correct mixture of fuel and air. Normally I use the spray can of Berryman's B12 on carbs. Soaking them in formal-eat-your-hands carb cleaner can dissolve the metal if it is left too long. If there are any rubber O-rings left in the carb it can damage them. Some of the carbs take special tools to remove and replace small O-rings in the carbs. Your "sealer" may be dried varnish in the fuel. Also, some carbs have a float bowl that has to clock the same way it came off.
remove front cover and the air filter and try spraying carb cleaner or brake cleaner in the carb and see is it will start. if there is a chock plate make sure it is closing and if you have a primer bulb push it 5 or 6 time while look in to carb to see if its pumping gas in to carb.
Intake manifold leaking causing vacuum leaks. This has the manifold that crosses over the block to feed the other side of the engine air and fuel. I would install a new one and GENTLY torque the 2 screws down to factory specs. Use your left hand if you are right handed to drop the torque.
Briggs part number is 796703. Cost is 15 bucks.
If you remove you intake pipe, look down into the engine block behind the valves. I had one that plastic air horn piece broke off and eventually got into the cylinder. She is a 5 pack a day smoker now. Bore all gouged up. Similar Toro as this one.
I fixed it. I bought an electric mower. No gas to buy, store and fill; no air filter to replace; no spark plug to change; no oil to drain and fill. Just sharpen the blade every year. And it's much lighter than the gas mower, making it much easier to push without the need for self-propelled. And stores vertically, freeing up space in my garage. I was waiting for the Toro to fail so I could buy one.
Thanks for all the advice.
I have been using Berryman B12 for years now, spring startup is almost perfect for all my stuff. ATV, lawn mowers, weed wacker, ect. everything. A little in the gas cleans well. Good luck.
