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To buy or not to buy
#1
U
ueww40
U
ueww40
I am thinking about buying a zero turn Cub Cadet model RZT-L46 FAB (17AGCACN010). That one has the Honda engine GXV630. I don't know anything about CC or zero turners. My mowers in the past have been Craftsman and Ariens. $300 asking price seems to be a good deal. Seller says it needs a starter and engine is not running, but turns by hand. It's about a 100 miles away so I have not gone out to see the mower yet. Can you guys give me some tips what to look out for, what to check and what questions to ask about this particular model, its known weak spots and trouble areas and its good points. I understand that some of these zero turners have electronics involved, safety sensors and what not that play tricks on you. What makes me wonder and kinda suspicious is that the mower has been up for sale for almost a month now and I am sure that a few bargain hunters have beaten a path to see this mower, I mean 300 bucks is cheap for a ZT, and walked away. - ????? I really appreciate your input on this. Thanks
#2
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
Cub Cadet (MTD) doesn't make the best residential mowers in my opinion, however i have serviced a few of the cub zero turns and i will say they're easy to do maintenance on... think blade belts and drive belts, fairly easy access.
Honda makes a good engine, but the fact you won't be able to start the mower is a red flag... You might offer him another hundred dollars or so if the owner would replace the starter so you could run it... But, i wouldn't buy it without operating it.
Honda makes a good engine, but the fact you won't be able to start the mower is a red flag... You might offer him another hundred dollars or so if the owner would replace the starter so you could run it... But, i wouldn't buy it without operating it.
#3
H
Heretik
H
Heretik
Look Out! Beware! Just Say No!
$300? Screams, for parts only!
I admit my first ZTR was a real cheapy, And I believe it cost me also about $300. But, I knew it ran, as it was delivered and cranked up and made a pass around the yard; before I handed over the fiat.
What ScrubCadet 10 said, but, Cub Cadet was once respected, B4 MTD bought 'em up. So was TroyBilt, also before MTD went cheap on 'em. If the owner is willing to get it running and up the price for the costs of repair, you be getting a deal.
Get a used model that has good drive response and work that reverse drive action repeatedly, beforehand.
ZTR mowers, the next best thing to brush whackers.
Check your local HomeDepot for clearance prices on Ryobi ZTR. Saw a 30" for $800 and 54" for $1000. They won't last til the end of the week. HomeDepot is dropping the line, word of mouth.
$300? Screams, for parts only!
I admit my first ZTR was a real cheapy, And I believe it cost me also about $300. But, I knew it ran, as it was delivered and cranked up and made a pass around the yard; before I handed over the fiat.
What ScrubCadet 10 said, but, Cub Cadet was once respected, B4 MTD bought 'em up. So was TroyBilt, also before MTD went cheap on 'em. If the owner is willing to get it running and up the price for the costs of repair, you be getting a deal.
Get a used model that has good drive response and work that reverse drive action repeatedly, beforehand.
ZTR mowers, the next best thing to brush whackers.
Check your local HomeDepot for clearance prices on Ryobi ZTR. Saw a 30" for $800 and 54" for $1000. They won't last til the end of the week. HomeDepot is dropping the line, word of mouth.
#4
H
Heretik
H
Heretik
Kawasaki engines are widely available on ZTR mowers. Beware, the FR651 specifically and I surmise the entire FR series engines suffer the same engineering F.U; it's just a matter of time. The FR651 is known, according to my repairman, for the failure of the Compression Release mechanism, integral to the cam shaft; which, IMO, is too expensive to repair [cost of a new engine, which in my case a replacement FR651 (21HP) are no longer available].
#5
kbowley
kbowley
I wouldn't spend $300 on what could potentially be a machine made up of parts. Without knowing the condition of the engine – whether it's damaged, it's risky. I suggest telling the seller that you'll cover the cost of a starter if they agree to replace it so you can hear the machine run. If they're not open to this, it's best to walk away.I am thinking about buying a zero turn Cub Cadet model RZT-L46 FAB (17AGCACN010). That one has the Honda engine GXV630. I don't know anything about CC or zero turners. My mowers in the past have been Craftsman and Ariens. $300 asking price seems to be a good deal. Seller says it needs a starter and engine is not running, but turns by hand. It's about a 100 miles away so I have not gone out to see the mower yet. Can you guys give me some tips what to look out for, what to check and what questions to ask about this particular model, its known weak spots and trouble areas and its good points. I understand that some of these zero turners have electronics involved, safety sensors and what not that play tricks on you. What makes me wonder and kinda suspicious is that the mower has been up for sale for almost a month now and I am sure that a few bargain hunters have beaten a path to see this mower, I mean 300 bucks is cheap for a ZT, and walked away. - ????? I really appreciate your input on this. Thanks
#6
U
ueww40
U
ueww40
I hear y'all. If it's still available by the weekend I will give the seller a call and pump him for more info and ask him if he has any repair estimates to get it running. That should tell me a lot already
#7
H
Heretik
H
Heretik
ueww40, I spoke of exercising the reverse gear repeatedly. That is my ignorant means of assuring myself of the wellness of the drive. If it wont respond immediately to reverse drive instructions, I'd be leary. When you drive your way into a hornets nest you want to back out now!
Drive forward, stop, pull back on the reins - If slow, or sluggish to respond do it again a few times; and think twice.
I've a new Ryobi iDrive ZTR with a POS tranny; as it does not respond well. Had I followed my own advise upon receipt of it, I probably wouldn't have gassed it up.
Aside; the iDrive (joystick steering) is a safety hazard IMHO. That hornet's nest encounter is a real nightmare.
Drive forward, stop, pull back on the reins - If slow, or sluggish to respond do it again a few times; and think twice.
I've a new Ryobi iDrive ZTR with a POS tranny; as it does not respond well. Had I followed my own advise upon receipt of it, I probably wouldn't have gassed it up.
Aside; the iDrive (joystick steering) is a safety hazard IMHO. That hornet's nest encounter is a real nightmare.
#8
kbowley
kbowley
Imo, that test is ineffective as a measure of transmission health because many feature dampers that prevent abrupt movements. If it is quiet and can pull a steep hill without slowing down once fully warmed up, it is fine. Forward/reverse is useless because all you're doing is moving the swash plate and reversing the direction of the motor's pressure, which is the same depending on how much the swash plate is moved. Leaky pistons, worn slippers on the pistons where they meet the swash plate, the swash plate itself, and a defective check valve (or valves) all contribute to pressure loss. Many machines' reverse is slow due to "safety" or a lack of modification. Respectfully. Kevin.ueww40, I spoke of exercising the reverse gear repeatedly. That is my ignorant means of assuring myself of the wellness of the drive. If it wont respond immediately to reverse drive instructions, I'd be leary. When you drive your way into a hornets nest you want to back out now!
Drive forward, stop, pull back on the reins - If slow, or sluggish to respond do it again a few times; and think twice.
I've a new Ryobi iDrive ZTR with a POS tranny; as it does not respond well. Had I followed my own advise upon receipt of it, I probably wouldn't have gassed it up.
Aside; the iDrive (joystick steering) is a safety hazard IMHO. That hornet's nest encounter is a real nightmare.
#9
U
ueww40
U
ueww40
I was never too afraid of an engine that at least you can turn freely by hand even if it is not running. It's the ones with with busted rods, dropped valves, holes in pistons or seized solidly, that will cost a pretty penny to fix or at worst aren't worth fixing. The seller says the trannies and the deck are good (these are the other 2 items that could junk a ZT easily), so there is something that doesn't jive. To replace a bad starter doesn't cost that much and selling a mower for $300 that should bring $1500 if in good shape over a lousy starter doesn't make sense. Is there something about the Honda engine that scares even those away that are not scared of bad engines why the ZT is still available after nearly one month. I wish I could see it with my own eyes. It would probably answer most of my questions. I think I read somewhere that something as little as a blown fuse could be the reason the starter and the engine are not working. Sounds too easy !!!
#10
E
evh
E
evh
A tip:
If this unit is on FB Marketplace, take a look at:
1. What other items the seller is selling
2. What other items the seller has sold
3. What items you see in the background of all of the photos the seller has posted for all of their items for sale and other pics they have posted
This will give you an idea if the seller is a normal home owner getting rid of a machine, or a "flipper" that doesn't even want to mess with this unit.
In FB a new posting showed up for 2 Cub Lawn tractor's for < $200 OBO. One was a newer model and the other a series before their latest. I was about to respond when I looked at his other For Sale and Sold listings. He is a flipper of these type of machines. My guess is these two are basket case machines vs a regular home owner simply dumping some broken machines for cheap.
If this unit is on FB Marketplace, take a look at:
1. What other items the seller is selling
2. What other items the seller has sold
3. What items you see in the background of all of the photos the seller has posted for all of their items for sale and other pics they have posted
This will give you an idea if the seller is a normal home owner getting rid of a machine, or a "flipper" that doesn't even want to mess with this unit.
In FB a new posting showed up for 2 Cub Lawn tractor's for < $200 OBO. One was a newer model and the other a series before their latest. I was about to respond when I looked at his other For Sale and Sold listings. He is a flipper of these type of machines. My guess is these two are basket case machines vs a regular home owner simply dumping some broken machines for cheap.
#11
U
ueww40
U
ueww40
No, it's not on FB marketplace. It's on CL either Mobile AL or Auburn AL and it sounds like it is a private seller not a junk flipper but something is toxic about this thing. It's been on CL for a month now and no takers. I just noticed they just dropped the price to $250. You almost can't lose even if the engine is complete toast. The hydros and the deck are worth more than that. I think I may make the trip on the weekend and satisfy my curiosity. But i will definitely give the seller a call first to find out a little more.
#12
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
I just saw the listing you mention and personally, I would go for it, not much to lose as long as it doesn't seem sketchy or anything. It looks like it hasn't been used in a while from the photos.
#13
G
GearHead36
G
GearHead36
I came across a Cub Pro Z100S on CL that had been on there for a couple of months. Asking price was $2500. It sold new for $9000. It ran, and mowed, but still needed some work. I bought it for $2000, and fixed it up. I think I spent around $300-$350 on parts and tools. It's a beast of a machine. I think the steering wheel scared people away. This one DID need work, but I wouldn't have called it a basket case since I was able to verify that it ran and mowed.
#14
P
Peva
I'm off topic of this thread, but since it's appeared to have run its course, I hope it'll be OK:
You sure about your info. on Home Depot and Ryobi? Their site currently lists the Ryobi ZTRs at the prices they've been running them at all season (30" @$2999, etc.) and all models still available (120 30", 98 42", 46 54") at those prices.
Is the rumor that HD is dropping Ryobi altogether or just the Ryobi ZTRs?
P
Peva
"Check your local HomeDepot for clearance prices on Ryobi ZTR. Saw a 30" for $800 and 54" for $1000. They won't last til the end of the week. HomeDepot is dropping the line, word of mouth."Look Out! Beware! Just Say No!
$300? Screams, for parts only!
I admit my first ZTR was a real cheapy, And I believe it cost me also about $300. But, I knew it ran, as it was delivered and cranked up and made a pass around the yard; before I handed over the fiat.
What ScrubCadet 10 said, but, Cub Cadet was once respected, B4 MTD bought 'em up. So was TroyBilt, also before MTD went cheap on 'em. If the owner is willing to get it running and up the price for the costs of repair, you be getting a deal.
Get a used model that has good drive response and work that reverse drive action repeatedly, beforehand.
ZTR mowers, the next best thing to brush whackers.
Check your local HomeDepot for clearance prices on Ryobi ZTR. Saw a 30" for $800 and 54" for $1000. They won't last til the end of the week. HomeDepot is dropping the line, word of mouth.
I'm off topic of this thread, but since it's appeared to have run its course, I hope it'll be OK:
You sure about your info. on Home Depot and Ryobi? Their site currently lists the Ryobi ZTRs at the prices they've been running them at all season (30" @$2999, etc.) and all models still available (120 30", 98 42", 46 54") at those prices.
Is the rumor that HD is dropping Ryobi altogether or just the Ryobi ZTRs?
#16
H
hollydolly
H
hollydolly
DO NOT WAIST YOUR TIME AND MONEY. IF IT WERE ONLY THE STARTER, HE WOUD REPLACE IT AND TRIPPLE HIS MONEY. HE IS DANGLING A 300.00 CARROT IN FRONT OF YOU. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR AND SOMETIMES A LOT LESS.
HE BAITED HIS LINE WITH 300, BE SMART, DON'T BITE, YOU WILL REGRET IT!!!!!!!!
KEEP LOOKING AND BUY A GOOD ONE...
IF YOU DO FALL FOR IT LET US KNOW HOW IT WORKED OUT.
HE BAITED HIS LINE WITH 300, BE SMART, DON'T BITE, YOU WILL REGRET IT!!!!!!!!
KEEP LOOKING AND BUY A GOOD ONE...
IF YOU DO FALL FOR IT LET US KNOW HOW IT WORKED OUT.
#17
F
Freddie21
F
Freddie21
I buy a lot of used mowers. If it's a hydro and doesn't run, I walk away unless there's enough good sellable parts to more than make up the price paid. You won't know if it drive, even at all, or know anything about the deck drive and spindle condition. If the starter is still installed, look at the red wire connection. Is it full of burn pits? This would mean that people have been trying to start by jumping to the starter. Depending on the engine, you might be able to grab the pinion gear and try and turn the starter. Otherwise stay away. Don't listen to "ok, everything else is good or IDK anything about it".. Seller really does.
#19
U
ueww40
U
ueww40
Well, last Sunday I drove the 200 miles to see the mower and I bought it for $250 while keeping my fingers crossed and hoping for the best. The seller was a senior gentleman who seemed to be honest and sincere. He answered all my questions in a way that made sense without raising a red flag, except for one, the one about the starter. The mower has not been running for almost a year. Everything was just fine until it quit, he said. No issues with the hydros, the deck or engine. But then the starter went bad. For almost a year, he said, he has been trying to find a starter for this GXV630 Honda engine and was unable to find one. Now that is hard to believe and I don't know what's up with that. I googled it to find one and they popped up like pretty girls on the beach. I don't know what he is talking about, but I am sure I will find out when I get to it. The fan covers are missing, they jerryrigged an electric fuel pump to the engine and who knows what other dumb things he did, but that is the challenge and I will find out as I go through it all with a fine toothed comb. After I got back home I gave it a good cleaning and I must say I am very happy with what I got for $250. With only 250 hours on the meter it almost looks new. All original paint, no flaking or rust anywhere and if nobody ever opened the engine and messed with it, it should be ok too. The seat is kinda weathered and I noticed that the right front caster swivel bracket is severely binding. Probably one or both ball bearing are shot, not a big deal to replace. Other then that I got my project for the winter cut out and I am all excited about it. Hopefully no money pit or unpleasant surprises but when I get done with it, it should be like a like new ZT worth a good $2000.
Attachments
#20
H
Heretik
Lets face it, the cost of going "green" shouldn't be nearly 100% increase, over a new gasser ZTR. That's profiteering from the Afghanistan rape boondoggle* and a wise American won't stand for such pilfering. My last gasser 42" ZTR, "hefty" with manufactured deck was $3500. My current Ryobi 42" with cheap carp stamped deck was $6000 (rounded to nearest $), original MSRP;with what I regard as an unsafe iDrive joystick steering. I can cut 15 minutes off my mowing time with a Lap Bar Steering ZTR.
And for the low low price of $4000 (today's dollars) in 3-5 years for replacement batteries; I'd have been wiser to get another gasser or spend $1600 for a replacement engine now. The Kawasaki FR651 is a POS, with engineered failure. Personally, I'd shy away from any FR series engines. I estimate the engine had less than150 hours (max) on it; with above average maintenance on it. My FR651 had a starter, one coil and belt replaced during it's operable life; as well as oil change ever 50 hours. The FR651 (21HP) = POS Carp. It's a compression release mechanism (as described by my mechanic) integral to cam that is the SNAFU. I presume it (SNAFU) is integral with all Kawasaki FR series engines. There is a "reach around" involving a manual choking at start up; But, that only assisted for one season,
*Afghanistan plundering has led to opioid crisis here at home and trillions $$$ in lithium profiteering. Abhorred credits to spreading of defunct Democracy, aka, Capitalism, go to Goobermints, here and abroad. You remember Goober; cousin to Gomer Pyle, another half-wit?
H
Heretik
Was a HD service desk associate that lent me his ear. As there were no more on his HD lot, aside from the last 30 incher, and none at my other favored HD store, 40 miles the other way, I'm fairly confident the queen bed has become separate bedrooms. HD will continue with the line of Ryobi hand tools and cordial breakfast meetings."Check your local HomeDepot for clearance prices on Ryobi ZTR. Saw a 30" for $800 and 54" for $1000. They won't last til the end of the week. HomeDepot is dropping the line, word of mouth."
I'm off topic of this thread, but since it's appeared to have run its course, I hope it'll be OK:
You sure about your info. on Home Depot and Ryobi. Their site currently lists the Ryobi ZTRs at the prices they've been running them at all season (30" @$2999, etc.) and all models still available (120 30", 98 42", 46 54") at those prices.
Is the rumor that HD is dropping Ryobi altogether or just the Ryobi ZTRs?
Lets face it, the cost of going "green" shouldn't be nearly 100% increase, over a new gasser ZTR. That's profiteering from the Afghanistan rape boondoggle* and a wise American won't stand for such pilfering. My last gasser 42" ZTR, "hefty" with manufactured deck was $3500. My current Ryobi 42" with cheap carp stamped deck was $6000 (rounded to nearest $), original MSRP;with what I regard as an unsafe iDrive joystick steering. I can cut 15 minutes off my mowing time with a Lap Bar Steering ZTR.
And for the low low price of $4000 (today's dollars) in 3-5 years for replacement batteries; I'd have been wiser to get another gasser or spend $1600 for a replacement engine now. The Kawasaki FR651 is a POS, with engineered failure. Personally, I'd shy away from any FR series engines. I estimate the engine had less than150 hours (max) on it; with above average maintenance on it. My FR651 had a starter, one coil and belt replaced during it's operable life; as well as oil change ever 50 hours. The FR651 (21HP) = POS Carp. It's a compression release mechanism (as described by my mechanic) integral to cam that is the SNAFU. I presume it (SNAFU) is integral with all Kawasaki FR series engines. There is a "reach around" involving a manual choking at start up; But, that only assisted for one season,
*Afghanistan plundering has led to opioid crisis here at home and trillions $$$ in lithium profiteering. Abhorred credits to spreading of defunct Democracy, aka, Capitalism, go to Goobermints, here and abroad. You remember Goober; cousin to Gomer Pyle, another half-wit?
#21
H
Heretik
With any search engine today for a GXV630 ... you're bound to get the results ranging from toilet seat to Panzer VIII ass wipe. The point is it's not easy to find anything without going through a catalog. Take it easy on the fellow that sold you a jewel.
Wow! What a steal! And Stamped deck, OMG! Doesn't appear to have a scratch on it. Congrats! Easily worth $2000! eBay GXV630 starter $73, free shipping.
H
Heretik
"...he has been trying to find a starter for this GXV630 Honda engine and was unable to find one. Now that is hard to believe..."Well, last Sunday I drove the 200 miles to see the mower and I bought it for $250 while keeping my fingers crossed and hoping for the best. The seller was a senior gentleman who seemed to be honest and sincere. He answered all my questions in a way that made sense without raising a red flag, except for one, the one about the starter. The mower has not been running for almost a year. Everything was just fine until it quit, he said. No issues with the hydros, the deck or engine. But then the starter went bad. For almost a year, he said, he has been trying to find a starter for this GXV630 Honda engine and was unable to find one. Now that is hard to believe and I don't know what's up with that. I googled it to find one and they popped up like pretty girls on the beach. I don't know what he is talking about, but I am sure I will find out when I get to it. The fan covers are missing, they jerryrigged an electric fuel pump to the engine and who knows what other dumb things he did, but that is the challenge and I will find out as I go through it all with a fine toothed comb. After I got back home I gave it a good cleaning and I must say I am very happy with what I got for $250. With only 250 hours on the meter it almost looks new. All original paint, no flaking or rust anywhere and if nobody ever opened the engine and messed with it, it should be ok too. The seat is kinda weathered and I noticed that the right front caster swivel bracket is severely binding. Probably one or both ball bearing are shot, not a big deal to replace. Other then that I got my project for the winter cut out and I am all excited about it. Hopefully no money pit or unpleasant surprises but when I get done with it, it should be like a like new ZT worth a good $2000.
With any search engine today for a GXV630 ... you're bound to get the results ranging from toilet seat to Panzer VIII ass wipe. The point is it's not easy to find anything without going through a catalog. Take it easy on the fellow that sold you a jewel.
Wow! What a steal! And Stamped deck, OMG! Doesn't appear to have a scratch on it. Congrats! Easily worth $2000! eBay GXV630 starter $73, free shipping.
#22
H
Heretik
H
Heretik
Aside from my rants on costs, good golly the costs, my Ryobi 42" ZTR is frightful. I don't regard any longer, the anticipation of mowing the yard (1/2 acre turf alone) with fun. Not to liken "bumper cars" or "go-cart" racing with unsafe activities, lap bar steering ZTR mowing is FUN! But, not so much with the Ryobi iDrive. The iDrive, joystick steering, can only be safely conducted with concentrated right-hand effort on steering.
What if you're defective, sorry, inhibited or righthand disabled.
With Lap Bar Steering ZTR, I can drive safely singularly left or right handed, not at great speeds; but, I can do that 1/2 acre just as quickly, as with two hands. That 1/2 acre has many many obstacles to navigate around and between.
I'm informed that industrial heavy equipment have adopted the iDrive (like) steering. I expect an increase in accidents attributable to this factor. Incidents of such occurrences with be muffled and certainly distorted if not fully fabricated otherwise; when management of safety is disregarded.
What if you're defective, sorry, inhibited or righthand disabled.
With Lap Bar Steering ZTR, I can drive safely singularly left or right handed, not at great speeds; but, I can do that 1/2 acre just as quickly, as with two hands. That 1/2 acre has many many obstacles to navigate around and between.
I'm informed that industrial heavy equipment have adopted the iDrive (like) steering. I expect an increase in accidents attributable to this factor. Incidents of such occurrences with be muffled and certainly distorted if not fully fabricated otherwise; when management of safety is disregarded.
#23
P
Peva
As far as HD dropping the Ryobi ZTRs, your "insider information" could be right, but it sounds rather speculative to me at this point. And I have no idea what "the queen bed has become separate bedrooms" and "cordial breakfast meetings" comments mean. Your metaphors and snark are over my head.
I don't have problems with the i-drive. I do have my drive speed set to the slowest of the 3 settings - plenty fast for mowing. I admit that trying to cut on the high setting would be scary (like a Kennedy playing football while skiing at full speed down a tree-filled ski slope), but I believe that it is intended for quickly traveling between mowing parcels - not intended for actual mowing. I also think that cutting on high travel speed would outstrip the ability of the blades to make a quality cut, even with cross-cut blades on high speed. I always mow with blades (cross-cut) on high speed and travel speed on low. Is it possible you have travel speed set to "high"?
P
Peva
The $800 and $1000 clearance tags you saw may have been one-off "open box" (customer return) units or something similar. As I posted, there are over 250 Ryobi ZTRs (total of 30", 42", and 52") currently showing in the HD system - so, no, they weren't attempting to deplete their inventory with an $800-$1000 across-the-board ZTR fire sale.Was a HD service desk associate that lent me his ear. As there were no more on his HD lot, aside from the last 30 incher, and none at my other favored HD store, 40 miles the other way, I'm fairly confident the queen bed has become separate bedrooms. HD will continue with the line of Ryobi hand tools and cordial breakfast meetings.
Lets face it, the cost of going "green" shouldn't be nearly 100% increase, over a new gasser ZTR. That's profiteering from the Afghanistan rape boondoggle* and a wise American won't stand for such pilfering. My last gasser 42" ZTR, "hefty" with manufactured deck was $3500. My current Ryobi 42" with cheap carp stamped deck was $6000 (rounded to nearest $), original MSRP;with what I regard as an unsafe iDrive joystick steering. I can cut 15 minutes off my mowing time with a Lap Bar Steering ZTR.
And for the low low price of $4000 (today's dollars) in 3-5 years for replacement batteries; I'd have been wiser to get another gasser or spend $1600 for a replacement engine now. The Kawasaki FR651 is a POS, with engineered failure. Personally, I'd shy away from any FR series engines. I estimate the engine had less than150 hours (max) on it; with above average maintenance on it. My FR651 had a starter, one coil and belt replaced during it's operable life; as well as oil change ever 50 hours. The FR651 (21HP) = POS Carp. It's a compression release mechanism (as described by my mechanic) integral to cam that is the SNAFU. I presume it (SNAFU) is integral with all Kawasaki FR series engines. There is a "reach around" involving a manual choking at start up; But, that only assisted for one season,
*Afghanistan plundering has led to opioid crisis here at home and trillions $$$ in lithium profiteering. Abhorred credits to spreading of defunct Democracy, aka, Capitalism, go to Goobermints, here and abroad. You remember Goober; cousin to Gomer Pyle, another half-wit?
As far as HD dropping the Ryobi ZTRs, your "insider information" could be right, but it sounds rather speculative to me at this point. And I have no idea what "the queen bed has become separate bedrooms" and "cordial breakfast meetings" comments mean. Your metaphors and snark are over my head.
I don't have problems with the i-drive. I do have my drive speed set to the slowest of the 3 settings - plenty fast for mowing. I admit that trying to cut on the high setting would be scary (like a Kennedy playing football while skiing at full speed down a tree-filled ski slope), but I believe that it is intended for quickly traveling between mowing parcels - not intended for actual mowing. I also think that cutting on high travel speed would outstrip the ability of the blades to make a quality cut, even with cross-cut blades on high speed. I always mow with blades (cross-cut) on high speed and travel speed on low. Is it possible you have travel speed set to "high"?
#24
T
texasvet
I’ve never heard anyone say that they were happy that they bought a Cadet.
Again, JM2C
T
texasvet
JM2C. Buy a Gravely or even a SCAG if you can afford it. You won’t be sorry. They are faster, more reliable, and they will last for many many years, especially the Scag.I am thinking about buying a zero turn Cub Cadet model RZT-L46 FAB (17AGCACN010). That one has the Honda engine GXV630. I don't know anything about CC or zero turners. My mowers in the past have been Craftsman and Ariens. $300 asking price seems to be a good deal. Seller says it needs a starter and engine is not running, but turns by hand. It's about a 100 miles away so I have not gone out to see the mower yet. Can you guys give me some tips what to look out for, what to check and what questions to ask about this particular model, its known weak spots and trouble areas and its good points. I understand that some of these zero turners have electronics involved, safety sensors and what not that play tricks on you. What makes me wonder and kinda suspicious is that the mower has been up for sale for almost a month now and I am sure that a few bargain hunters have beaten a path to see this mower, I mean 300 bucks is cheap for a ZT, and walked away. - ????? I really appreciate your input on this. Thanks
I’ve never heard anyone say that they were happy that they bought a Cadet.
Again, JM2C
#25
H
Heretik
Scag is undecided with their selection of engines having three choices - avoid the FR651 at any costs. I would have purchased my 2nd Hustler Raptor if it had the same engine choices; and, saved $1800 over a comparable Scag. And I've long had a yearning for a Gravely, were it not for my wallet telling me no. Once mowed my yard using a Gravely with trailing stand-on dolly. Might have been my most painful sciatica suffering ever.
If I may add, without scolding, I've found the FR651 no longer available as a replacement engine. Is it possible, I'm wrong this one time, the entire FR series do not have the same engineered gotoshitz flaw. While the FR651 engine is no longer individually available, it is vastly available in new full boat acquisitions. Scag for example and the entire line of Hustler ZTR mowers. Ive been wrong before, but I'm pretty sure I was just mistaken.
And a ton of beans or rice has more real value than breadth of digital-coins.
Did I commend Ryobi on the implementation of single port recharging, and I must include the instantaneous brake and parking brake system.
H
Heretik
euww40 bought the mighty FINE Cub Cadet. Cost of new starter $73. I'm sure he's happy.JM2C. Buy a Gravely or even a SCAG if you can afford it. You won’t be sorry. They are faster, more reliable, and they will last for many many years, especially the Scag.
I’ve never heard anyone say that they were happy that they bought a Cadet.
Again, JM2C
Scag is undecided with their selection of engines having three choices - avoid the FR651 at any costs. I would have purchased my 2nd Hustler Raptor if it had the same engine choices; and, saved $1800 over a comparable Scag. And I've long had a yearning for a Gravely, were it not for my wallet telling me no. Once mowed my yard using a Gravely with trailing stand-on dolly. Might have been my most painful sciatica suffering ever.
If I may add, without scolding, I've found the FR651 no longer available as a replacement engine. Is it possible, I'm wrong this one time, the entire FR series do not have the same engineered gotoshitz flaw. While the FR651 engine is no longer individually available, it is vastly available in new full boat acquisitions. Scag for example and the entire line of Hustler ZTR mowers. Ive been wrong before, but I'm pretty sure I was just mistaken.
And a ton of beans or rice has more real value than breadth of digital-coins.
Did I commend Ryobi on the implementation of single port recharging, and I must include the instantaneous brake and parking brake system.
#26
G
GearHead36
G
GearHead36
Ok, then let me be the first. I came across a CC Pro Z 100 that needed some work, so I got it for a good deal. I fixed it up, and now I have a good running commercial ZTR that I paid less than the cost of a new big box store ZTR. I probably got lucky, but it happens. Would I buy a residential Cub with a stamped deck? Probably not, unless it was almost free.I’ve never heard anyone say that they were happy that they bought a Cadet.
Again, JM2C
#27
U
ueww40
U
ueww40
I started the restoration process of my newly aquired project and I am in desperate need of a good electrical wiring diagram for that particular mower. It is a 2017 17AGCACN056 or RZT-L46 (Honda engine). I found a few, but they are very hard to make out. Thanks
#28
U
ueww40
U
ueww40
This is the factory fuel pump which the seller removed from the mower. I want to put it back instead of that jerryrigged electric pump. Does anybody know what lines go where?
Attachments
#29
U
ueww40
U
ueww40
Never mind. In the meantime I found out where all the fuel lines go. Why does the fuel pump for a Honda GXV630RH has 4 legs of which one is a purge line. What does the purge line do? Also there is what seems to be a oil pressure sensor or switch on the right side of the engine (see pic) but it doesn't have a wire on it, looks like it never did and I don't see any loose wires hanging around anywhere. The other question is, there is a line coming from the carburetor (#30 on the picture). Where does it go?
Attachments
#30
P
Peva
On the purge line, I don't know the answer for sure (I'm not a lawnmower pro), but I try to be helpful.
So I searched "fuel pump purge line" in the context of lawnmowers. Some resulting hits said that, while cars have purge lines as part of their (fuel) evaporative emissions systems, lawnmowers don't have those. Perhaps they're wrong and some Honda lawnmowers are an exception to that and have an evaporative emissions system with a purge line?
P
Peva
Never mind. In the meantime I found out where all the fuel lines go. Why does the fuel pump for a Honda GXV630RH has 4 legs of which one is a purge line. What does the purge line do? Also there is what seems to be a oil pressure sensor or switch on the right side of the engine (see pic) but it doesn't have a wire on it, looks like it never did and I don't see any loose wires hanging around anywhere. The other question is, there is a line coming from the carburetor (#30 on the picture). Where does it go?
On the purge line, I don't know the answer for sure (I'm not a lawnmower pro), but I try to be helpful.
So I searched "fuel pump purge line" in the context of lawnmowers. Some resulting hits said that, while cars have purge lines as part of their (fuel) evaporative emissions systems, lawnmowers don't have those. Perhaps they're wrong and some Honda lawnmowers are an exception to that and have an evaporative emissions system with a purge line?
#31
U
ueww40
U
ueww40
Come to think of it, there are always the California wackos. i read once that Zero Turners in CA have a charcoal canister somewhere in their fuel system, whereas the other 49 states don't. I know my RZT doesn't have one. On my diagram the purge line comes from the fuel pump and goes to the frame of the air filter housing meaning whatever comes out of that purge line gets sucked back into the carb. That's starting to make sense. Any thoughts on my other 2 questions?
#32
A
Auto Doc's
This is more than "just needs a starter". If you are a mower mechanic, this would be a great deal even if it needed an engine replaced.
But, if you are a DIY novice with limited experience, let it go.
A
Auto Doc's
"Run Forrest Run"I am thinking about buying a zero turn Cub Cadet model RZT-L46 FAB (17AGCACN010). That one has the Honda engine GXV630. I don't know anything about CC or zero turners. My mowers in the past have been Craftsman and Ariens. $300 asking price seems to be a good deal. Seller says it needs a starter and engine is not running, but turns by hand. It's about a 100 miles away so I have not gone out to see the mower yet. Can you guys give me some tips what to look out for, what to check and what questions to ask about this particular model, its known weak spots and trouble areas and its good points. I understand that some of these zero turners have electronics involved, safety sensors and what not that play tricks on you. What makes me wonder and kinda suspicious is that the mower has been up for sale for almost a month now and I am sure that a few bargain hunters have beaten a path to see this mower, I mean 300 bucks is cheap for a ZT, and walked away. - ????? I really appreciate your input on this. Thanks
This is more than "just needs a starter". If you are a mower mechanic, this would be a great deal even if it needed an engine replaced.
But, if you are a DIY novice with limited experience, let it go.
#33
P
Peva
No ideas on your other two questions. Were you able to find the wiring diagram? A wiring diagram might explain the mystery switch/oil pressure sensor/whatever.
Hopefully someone comes along that is familiar with your particular mowchine.
P
Peva
Yeah - I thought about the possibility that CA would be a special case (evap system). Perhaps the Honda aftermarket sells only the 4-line pump to simplify their inventory system (one less part number and part manufacturing/sourcing variation that has to be managed) - perhaps the 4-line pump is universal application by just capping off that line if not needed? (But probably not a good idea to just assume that.)Come to think of it, there are always the California wackos. i read once that Zero Turners in CA have a charcoal canister somewhere in their fuel system, whereas the other 49 states don't. I know my RZT doesn't have one. On my diagram the purge line comes from the fuel pump and goes to the frame of the air filter housing meaning whatever comes out of that purge line gets sucked back into the carb. That's starting to make sense. Any thoughts on my other 2 questions?
No ideas on your other two questions. Were you able to find the wiring diagram? A wiring diagram might explain the mystery switch/oil pressure sensor/whatever.
Hopefully someone comes along that is familiar with your particular mowchine.
#34
U
ueww40
U
ueww40
Peva, actually the 4 legged fuel pump is the original one OEM and I am sure that's all Honda installs just to keep it simple, regardless if the mower goes to CA or AL. They probably just do the line routing a little different to bypass unused features and that's what I am trying to get a handle on. I got everything basically sorted out except for that mystery line going to or coming from the carburetor and that oil switch (maybe it's wireless LOL). I got some half ass wiring diagram which is very difficult to make out but I will try again
#36
U
ueww40
U
ueww40
I found a great shop manual and I found the answers to my questions. That hose 30 (in post #29) coming from the carburetor is nothing more than a drain hose. The nearly 2 feet of it just hang there open ended pointing to the ground under the engine and allows you to drain the carburetor before removing it and the oil pressure sensor has no wire connected to it, believe it or not.