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Tired old techumseh
#1
T
TFLHNDN
T
TFLHNDN
First time posting.
I have a log splitter that is pretty old. Not sure exactly I bought it at a garage sale and have gotten 5 good years out of it with a lot of tlc. It has a tecumseh hm100 motor. Last year the carburetor started giving me problems and I limped it through the winter. This fall it will not start and I'm considering a new engine vs. replacing the carburetor.
It burns quite a bit of oil and I'm constantly adding oil while working. The carburetor was pretty dirty when I took it apart and I cleaned it out. The spark plug was full of carbon, more so than last year.
Any thoughts from the community or suggestions for a replacement motor are appreciated.
I have a log splitter that is pretty old. Not sure exactly I bought it at a garage sale and have gotten 5 good years out of it with a lot of tlc. It has a tecumseh hm100 motor. Last year the carburetor started giving me problems and I limped it through the winter. This fall it will not start and I'm considering a new engine vs. replacing the carburetor.
It burns quite a bit of oil and I'm constantly adding oil while working. The carburetor was pretty dirty when I took it apart and I cleaned it out. The spark plug was full of carbon, more so than last year.
Any thoughts from the community or suggestions for a replacement motor are appreciated.
#2
A
Auto Doc's
A
Auto Doc's
Hello T.,
The HM100 is a 10HP rated engine, but an 8HP would still do the job on a log splitter. These were heavy cast iron blocks and held up very well for a lot of years.
A lot of this depends on matching the crankshaft dimensions. Length, diameter and with or without a taper on the output shaft.
The bolt down dimensions may require that new holes be drilled to mount a replacement engine.
Being that old of an engine may take some adapting. I am still a fan of the old B&S flat head engines for applications like this. They were simpler to work on that the Tecumseh and lots of parts are still available for them.
Chinese clone engines are a big gamble and most compatible Honda GX series engines are just too expensive.
The HM100 is a 10HP rated engine, but an 8HP would still do the job on a log splitter. These were heavy cast iron blocks and held up very well for a lot of years.
A lot of this depends on matching the crankshaft dimensions. Length, diameter and with or without a taper on the output shaft.
The bolt down dimensions may require that new holes be drilled to mount a replacement engine.
Being that old of an engine may take some adapting. I am still a fan of the old B&S flat head engines for applications like this. They were simpler to work on that the Tecumseh and lots of parts are still available for them.
Chinese clone engines are a big gamble and most compatible Honda GX series engines are just too expensive.
#3
T
TFLHNDN
T
TFLHNDN
Thank you. That is what I was leaning toward. The holes i can drill out easy enough and there are actually several holes in the base already so that isn't a concern. I am going to pull it all apart tomorrow and take measurements off of the shaft. I think in the long run a new motor is the wise choice and feel that a new carburetor is only going to get me one maybe 2 years.Hello T.,
The HM100 is a 10HP rated engine, but an 8HP would still do the job on a log splitter. These were heavy cast iron blocks and held up very well for a lot of years.
A lot of this depends on matching the crankshaft dimensions. Length, diameter and with or without a taper on the output shaft.
The bolt down dimensions may require that new holes be drilled to mount a replacement engine.
Being that old of an engine may take some adapting. I am still a fan of the old B&S flat head engines for applications like this. They were simpler to work on that the Tecumseh and lots of parts are still available for them.
Chinese clone engines are a big gamble and most compatible Honda GX series engines are just too expensive.
#4
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Before replacing this old mule I would stick a little time and money into cleaning and rebuilding the carb. Replace the float needle and seat, Tecumseh part number 631021B. I’ve attached the procedure I’ve recommended many times on this forum.
Needle and seat replacement.
Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.
I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.
With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. If it does, replace. If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.
PS: On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. Under this cover will be an idle jet. Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
Needle and seat replacement.
Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.
I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.
With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. If it does, replace. If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.
PS: On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. Under this cover will be an idle jet. Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
#5
T
TFLHNDN
My big concern is the amount of oil it burns.
I'm still considering getting a backup motor so if this one goes down I have one on hand for a quick replacement. Our primary heat source is wood so Murphy would say the motor will go out at the least convenient time i have a decent stockpile and I can always split with an axe but the log splitter is so much easier on the body.
T
TFLHNDN
I will give this a try. I am all about getting one more season if I can. Even if I can get a few weeks out of it that is a win.Before replacing this old mule I would stick a little time and money into cleaning and rebuilding the carb. Replace the float needle and seat, Tecumseh part number 631021B. I’ve attached the procedure I’ve recommended many times on this forum.
Needle and seat replacement.
Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.
I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.
With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. If it does, replace. If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.
PS: On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. Under this cover will be an idle jet. Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
My big concern is the amount of oil it burns.
I'm still considering getting a backup motor so if this one goes down I have one on hand for a quick replacement. Our primary heat source is wood so Murphy would say the motor will go out at the least convenient time i have a decent stockpile and I can always split with an axe but the log splitter is so much easier on the body.
#6
A
Auto Doc's
These old cast iron engines were easy to rebuild as well. They were a minimal design with only a couple of crank seals and gaskets.
You might consider a light cylinder honing and putting a new piston kit or at least a set of rings in this Tecumseh.
A
Auto Doc's
Hello T.,I will give this a try. I am all about getting one more season if I can. Even if I can get a few weeks out of it that is a win.
My big concern is the amount of oil it burns.
I'm still considering getting a backup motor so if this one goes down I have one on hand for a quick replacement. Our primary heat source is wood so Murphy would say the motor will go out at the least convenient time i have a decent stockpile and I can always split with an axe but the log splitter is so much easier on the body.
These old cast iron engines were easy to rebuild as well. They were a minimal design with only a couple of crank seals and gaskets.
You might consider a light cylinder honing and putting a new piston kit or at least a set of rings in this Tecumseh.
#7
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Look at the Predator 304 cc engine at Harbor freight if replacing. I repowered my splitter years ago with this engine and it has been great.First time posting.
I have a log splitter that is pretty old. Not sure exactly I bought it at a garage sale and have gotten 5 good years out of it with a lot of tlc. It has a tecumseh hm100 motor. Last year the carburetor started giving me problems and I limped it through the winter. This fall it will not start and I'm considering a new engine vs. replacing the carburetor.
It burns quite a bit of oil and I'm constantly adding oil while working. The carburetor was pretty dirty when I took it apart and I cleaned it out. The spark plug was full of carbon, more so than last year.
Any thoughts from the community or suggestions for a replacement motor are appreciated.
#8
F
Forest#2
F
Forest#2
Here is a Tecumseh carb repair link.
outdoorpowerinfo.com
I've found clone carbs for the HM100 but they are the non-adjustable and run lean on a cold engine. (surging and hunting is common)
I've got a good old 8hp L-head electric and manual start stored in my shed that I'm not using if we were close enough. Too heavy to ship.
Some guys go to the predator but I think maybe the price has jumped due to availability.
You need at least a 8hp.
A 20-50 castrol oil might slow down the oil burning. (with a additive)
If your carb is the adjustable jet type they have a high demand on flea bay because they are NLA as new.
Small Engine, Lawn Mower, Snowthrower Troubleshooting, Repairs and Safety
I've found clone carbs for the HM100 but they are the non-adjustable and run lean on a cold engine. (surging and hunting is common)
I've got a good old 8hp L-head electric and manual start stored in my shed that I'm not using if we were close enough. Too heavy to ship.
Some guys go to the predator but I think maybe the price has jumped due to availability.
You need at least a 8hp.
A 20-50 castrol oil might slow down the oil burning. (with a additive)
If your carb is the adjustable jet type they have a high demand on flea bay because they are NLA as new.
#9
A
andrewslarge
A
andrewslarge
I’d get an aftermarket carb off eBay and try it for $10-$12. Take pics of how the linkage goes in what hole on the carb.
I put linkage in the wrong hole and engine ran 2800 rpms instead of faster.
I believe there are three holes?
If you want a project, then hone it, new cylinder and rings with a gasket kit. Cost $50-$75 in parts.
These are the “good” Tecumseh engines and this can give you many more years of service.
I added a snow king flywheel with teeth and an electric starter to make mine easier to start. Cost $100.
I put linkage in the wrong hole and engine ran 2800 rpms instead of faster.
I believe there are three holes?
If you want a project, then hone it, new cylinder and rings with a gasket kit. Cost $50-$75 in parts.
These are the “good” Tecumseh engines and this can give you many more years of service.
I added a snow king flywheel with teeth and an electric starter to make mine easier to start. Cost $100.
#10
A
andrewslarge
A
andrewslarge
That’s what I’d doHello T.,
These old cast iron engines were easy to rebuild as well. They were a minimal design with only a couple of crank seals and gaskets.
You might consider a light cylinder honing and putting a new piston kit or at least a set of rings in this Tecumseh.
#11
K
kirkkw
K
kirkkw
If you want an aftermarket carb buy HIPA. A couple of famous Youtube small engine shops have both recently stated they have used HIPA carbs very successfully.
Look at Chickanic and Taryl Fixes All on Youtube
Look at Chickanic and Taryl Fixes All on Youtube
#12
P
pay1920
P
pay1920
I've seen a lot of engines on pressure washers for sale on facebook marketplace where the pump has gone bad, Just a thought.I will give this a try. I am all about getting one more season if I can. Even if I can get a few weeks out of it that is a win.
My big concern is the amount of oil it burns.
I'm still considering getting a backup motor so if this one goes down I have one on hand for a quick replacement. Our primary heat source is wood so Murphy would say the motor will go out at the least convenient time i have a decent stockpile and I can always split with an axe but the log splitter is so much easier on the body.
#13
F
Forest#2
I've done the same. Lot easier to start in cold weather.
F
Forest#2
I added a snow king flywheel with teeth and an electric starter to make mine easier to start. Cost $100.I’d get an aftermarket carb off eBay and try it for $10-$12. Take pics of how the linkage goes in what hole on the carb.
I put linkage in the wrong hole and engine ran 2800 rpms instead of faster.
I believe there are three holes?
If you want a project, then hone it, new cylinder and rings with a gasket kit. Cost $50-$75 in parts.
These are the “good” Tecumseh engines and this can give you many more years of service.
I added a snow king flywheel with teeth and an electric starter to make mine easier to start. Cost $100.
I've done the same. Lot easier to start in cold weather.
#14
F
Forest#2
F
Forest#2
Set of rings and some gaskets would most likely stop the oil burning.
Rings would be the costly item if they can be found.
Set rings now days for a small Briggs are jaw dropper priced.
Rings would be the costly item if they can be found.
Set rings now days for a small Briggs are jaw dropper priced.
#15
R
RevB
R
RevB
A rebuild is more than just throwing parts at it. Specs, allowable dimensions, wear limits, parts availability. Nice to know what is worn beyond serviceability, if anything. Being a parts cannon is worse than useless.That’s what I’d do
#16
B
bentrim
B
bentrim
Best check your information The HH80, 100, 120 were cast iron. The HM 100 was aluminum and used a cast sleeve as was the H70 which originally had an aluminum bore. All these were used on MF lawn and garden tractors.Hello T.,
The HM100 is a 10HP rated engine, but an 8HP would still do the job on a log splitter. These were heavy cast iron blocks and held up very well for a lot of years.
A lot of this depends on matching the crankshaft dimensions. Length, diameter and with or without a taper on the output shaft.
The bolt down dimensions may require that new holes be drilled to mount a replacement engine.
Being that old of an engine may take some adapting. I am still a fan of the old B&S flat head engines for applications like this. They were simpler to work on that the Tecumseh and lots of parts are still available for them.
Chinese clone engines are a big gamble and most compatible Honda GX series engines are just too expensive.
#17
B
bentrim
B
bentrim
Be careful Pressure washer engines usually have a very short crank. May not be long enoughI've seen a lot of engines on pressure washers for sale on facebook marketplace where the pump has gone bad, Just a thought.
#18
F
Forest#2
Right need to inspect before ordering parts. Might be whipping on a dead horse. I would look at availability of parts and prices BEFORE I even removed ONE bolt for a inspection. (of a obsolete unit)
I would probably look for a replacement engine and just use the Tecumseh oil burner on the log splitter as is and only think about a POSSIBLE rebuild in my spare time as a backup engine.
AND be sure and not overlook the valve guides, especially the intake guide. I've seen some small engines consume lots of oil and foul plug due to bad valve guides and it being headed toward the catagory of dinosaur egg not worth the effort of a re-furbish/re-build.
F
Forest#2
A rebuild is more than just throwing parts at it. Specs, allowable dimensions, wear limits, parts availability. Nice to know what is worn beyond serviceability, if anything. Being a parts cannon is worse than useless.
Right need to inspect before ordering parts. Might be whipping on a dead horse. I would look at availability of parts and prices BEFORE I even removed ONE bolt for a inspection. (of a obsolete unit)
I would probably look for a replacement engine and just use the Tecumseh oil burner on the log splitter as is and only think about a POSSIBLE rebuild in my spare time as a backup engine.
AND be sure and not overlook the valve guides, especially the intake guide. I've seen some small engines consume lots of oil and foul plug due to bad valve guides and it being headed toward the catagory of dinosaur egg not worth the effort of a re-furbish/re-build.
#19
P
PGB1
P
PGB1
If you choose to replace the engine, often Surplus Center has a wide selection of new, name brand engines for decent prices. It may be worth checking into. (They have a lot of hydraulic items, gear reducers, lawn equipment parts such as seats and other treasures, too.)
They usually have mostly Briggs & Stratton, Kawasaki, Honda, Kohler, Kats & Hydro-Mount engines. Often they are not the newest model.
A Kohler to replace my 4 Hp K-91 was less cost, with shipping, than import Predator at Harbor Frieight.
suprluscenter.com
Paul
They usually have mostly Briggs & Stratton, Kawasaki, Honda, Kohler, Kats & Hydro-Mount engines. Often they are not the newest model.
A Kohler to replace my 4 Hp K-91 was less cost, with shipping, than import Predator at Harbor Frieight.
suprluscenter.com
Paul
#20
A
andrewslarge
A
andrewslarge
I agree with the feedback above.
I believe if you want it to just run and smoke it’s time to order a $10 carb and see what happens. I predict it will run and finish out the season.
This gives you time to make a sound decision
I believe if you want it to just run and smoke it’s time to order a $10 carb and see what happens. I predict it will run and finish out the season.
This gives you time to make a sound decision
#21
mpqualdie
mpqualdie
Probably won't be a popular answer on here, but I used a Harbor Freight motor for a rototiller of mine and has done well for me. Also, using non-ethenol gas roll help in the future to not harm your carburetor. With my equipment I only use that, and stuff I store for periods of ti.e without using g I shut the gas off when done and let it run till the carb bowl runs out of gas so your not storing it with gas in it.First time posting.
I have a log splitter that is pretty old. Not sure exactly I bought it at a garage sale and have gotten 5 good years out of it with a lot of tlc. It has a tecumseh hm100 motor. Last year the carburetor started giving me problems and I limped it through the winter. This fall it will not start and I'm considering a new engine vs. replacing the carburetor.
It burns quite a bit of oil and I'm constantly adding oil while working. The carburetor was pretty dirty when I took it apart and I cleaned it out. The spark plug was full of carbon, more so than last year.
Any thoughts from the community or suggestions for a replacement motor are appreciated.
#22
Mickye
Mickye
The piston rings may be gummed up and seized in their grooves which would cause bad starting and oil bypassing in the bore casing high oil consumptionHello T.,
These old cast iron engines were easy to rebuild as well. They were a minimal design with only a couple of crank seals and gaskets.
You might consider a light cylinder honing and putting a new piston kit or at least a set of rings in this Tecumseh.
Hello T.,
These old cast iron engines were easy to rebuild as well. They were a minimal design with only a couple of crank seals and gaskets.
You might consider a light cylinder honing and putting a new piston kit or at least a set of rings in this Tecumseh.
#23
H
Honest Abe
H
Honest Abe
can you, or a knowledgeable friend rebuild this engine...? It shouldn't cost that much, or take too long, and well worth the effort.....Hello T.,
The HM100 is a 10HP rated engine, but an 8HP would still do the job on a log splitter. These were heavy cast iron blocks and held up very well for a lot of years.
A lot of this depends on matching the crankshaft dimensions. Length, diameter and with or without a taper on the output shaft.
The bolt down dimensions may require that new holes be drilled to mount a replacement engine.
Being that old of an engine may take some adapting. I am still a fan of the old B&S flat head engines for applications like this. They were simpler to work on that the Tecumseh and lots of parts are still available for them.
Chinese clone engines are a big gamble and most compatible Honda GX series engines are just too expensive.
#24
J
joea99
J
joea99
Perhaps this is not the place to post, but, I'm in NY state and have both an 8hp snow king tecumseh in a snow blower frame and 8HP B&S in a baker chipper. Both "ran when parked" due to unrelated mechanical issues.