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Tiger Cat II deck adjustment
#1
jekjr
jekjr
We were not gettin the performance we needed on our latest Tiger Cat II. We placed it on a cement slab and checked the deck. It was high in the front. We dropped it till the deck was 1/4" lower in the front. That was a game changer on tall grass.
1/4" lower on the front with the inside front baffle in the highest position makes all of the difference in the world on tall stemmed grass.
1/4" lower on the front with the inside front baffle in the highest position makes all of the difference in the world on tall stemmed grass.
#2
S
Steve0853
S
Steve0853
Did you measure from the front of the deck and the back of the deck? or did you measure from the blade tip at the front of the deck and the blade tip at the rear of the deck?
#3
jekjr
I actually measured from the top of the deck to the cement.
jekjr
Did you measure from the front of the deck and the back of the deck? or did you measure from the blade tip at the front of the deck and the blade tip at the rear of the deck?
I actually measured from the top of the deck to the cement.
#4
mcdonell
mcdonell
Thanks for the info. Just yesterday my son was complaining his new Tiger Cat II was requiring a second pass on tall stem grass. I forwarded your info to him.
#5
S
Steve0853
S
Steve0853
Thanks JEK....
I've adjusted every way I can think of. Like Mcdonell, I have to double cut almost everything if I want it to look good. I have cut over some Bahia patches that didn't even look like the blades were turning.
Funny thing is that I can double cut almost full speed and it looks great. However, I can't go slow enough to make it look good in one pass.
It's maddening that my sister has a 15 year old Toro with 72 inch deck that's on its last legs, but she can cut almost wide open and it the grass looks great with one pass.
I've adjusted every way I can think of. Like Mcdonell, I have to double cut almost everything if I want it to look good. I have cut over some Bahia patches that didn't even look like the blades were turning.
Funny thing is that I can double cut almost full speed and it looks great. However, I can't go slow enough to make it look good in one pass.
It's maddening that my sister has a 15 year old Toro with 72 inch deck that's on its last legs, but she can cut almost wide open and it the grass looks great with one pass.
#6
T
tommygun715
T
tommygun715
Hi. Glad I found this thread. I just purchased a new TC2 52" Kawasaki last fall but my mowing started this year. I'm particular about a nice clean even cut, which is why I went with this mower and the velocity deck. But I don't think it's cutting like it should, especially around the tire track area. Like someone else said here, I have to double cut in order to make it look nice, but even then, I can find some flaws. On slopes, it will scalp on the low side. I've cut anywhere between 3.5" to 2.75", I've gone slow, but like someone else said, it might cut better going a little faster. The only adjustments I've made has been with the baffle. I lowered it 1 notch to create more vacuum(?) and thought it helped some, but not sure. I slightly over inflated the rear tires to 20lbs, but that really hasn't helped.
I can post pics, but I think my WI yard is a mix of rye, fescue and Kentucky Blue grass. My yard is pretty thick since it is irrigated and gets (3) fertilizer treatments yearly.
So how, or what is the best way to check for a level deck?
Ideally, should it be 1/4" lower in the front?
What is the proper position of the anti-scalping wheels?
Would high lift blades make a difference?
Should I raise that baffle higher?
Thx!
I can post pics, but I think my WI yard is a mix of rye, fescue and Kentucky Blue grass. My yard is pretty thick since it is irrigated and gets (3) fertilizer treatments yearly.
So how, or what is the best way to check for a level deck?
Ideally, should it be 1/4" lower in the front?
What is the proper position of the anti-scalping wheels?
Would high lift blades make a difference?
Should I raise that baffle higher?
Thx!
#7
jekjr
jekjr
A Tiger Cat Scag with a Velocity Deck, set up as described with sharp high lift blades will cut Bahia Grass over knee deep in one pass. If it does not then there is an issue. We run them all day long day in and day out doing that. We have four of them.Hi. Glad I found this thread. I just purchased a new TC2 52" Kawasaki last fall but my mowing started this year. I'm particular about a nice clean even cut, which is why I went with this mower and the velocity deck. But I don't think it's cutting like it should, especially around the tire track area. Like someone else said here, I have to double cut in order to make it look nice, but even then, I can find some flaws. On slopes, it will scalp on the low side. I've cut anywhere between 3.5" to 2.75", I've gone slow, but like someone else said, it might cut better going a little faster. The only adjustments I've made has been with the baffle. I lowered it 1 notch to create more vacuum(?) and thought it helped some, but not sure. I slightly over inflated the rear tires to 20lbs, but that really hasn't helped.
I can post pics, but I think my WI yard is a mix of rye, fescue and Kentucky Blue grass. My yard is pretty thick since it is irrigated and gets (3) fertilizer treatments yearly.
So how, or what is the best way to check for a level deck?
Ideally, should it be 1/4" lower in the front?
What is the proper position of the anti-scalping wheels?
Would high lift blades make a difference?
Should I raise that baffle higher?
Thx!
#8
jekjr
The way we check is:
First check tire pressure and make sure that it is exactly as it should be. A slight differential in the rear times can make a difference on complete level.
Then after that is achieved we place the mower on a level concrete surface.
Set the deck at normal cutting height. Normally for us 3.
Then measure from the top of the deck to the floor at both rear sides. This should be an exact measurement.
Then check the from measurement.
It should be 1/4" lower. You don't want any more than 1/4" but it needs to be slightly lower than the back.
Then we take a tape measure and me
We run the baffle that is underneath in the highest position to cut bahia grass.
I have been told you can completely remover it but we never have.
I have never touched the scalping wheels as far as adjustment.
Yes 1/4" lower in the front.
We only run high lift blades to cut bahia grass. Also we change them normally first thing in the morning and then some time before lunch many days and then some days early afternoon.
That is on mowers that run all day long either cutting acreage or 15 or 16 yards a day that are smaller.
A tiger cat will cut 2 acres of decently heavy bahia grass but if it is really deep it will not cut it that fast and it will work on blades. I have never seen anything that will out cut one on Bahia grass.
jekjr
Hi. Glad I found this thread. I just purchased a new TC2 52" Kawasaki last fall but my mowing started this year. I'm particular about a nice clean even cut, which is why I went with this mower and the velocity deck. But I don't think it's cutting like it should, especially around the tire track area. Like someone else said here, I have to double cut in order to make it look nice, but even then, I can find some flaws. On slopes, it will scalp on the low side. I've cut anywhere between 3.5" to 2.75", I've gone slow, but like someone else said, it might cut better going a little faster. The only adjustments I've made has been with the baffle. I lowered it 1 notch to create more vacuum(?) and thought it helped some, but not sure. I slightly over inflated the rear tires to 20lbs, but that really hasn't helped.
I can post pics, but I think my WI yard is a mix of rye, fescue and Kentucky Blue grass. My yard is pretty thick since it is irrigated and gets (3) fertilizer treatments yearly.
So how, or what is the best way to check for a level deck?
Ideally, should it be 1/4" lower in the front?
What is the proper position of the anti-scalping wheels?
Would high lift blades make a difference?
Should I raise that baffle higher?
Thx!
The way we check is:
First check tire pressure and make sure that it is exactly as it should be. A slight differential in the rear times can make a difference on complete level.
Then after that is achieved we place the mower on a level concrete surface.
Set the deck at normal cutting height. Normally for us 3.
Then measure from the top of the deck to the floor at both rear sides. This should be an exact measurement.
Then check the from measurement.
It should be 1/4" lower. You don't want any more than 1/4" but it needs to be slightly lower than the back.
Then we take a tape measure and me
We run the baffle that is underneath in the highest position to cut bahia grass.
I have been told you can completely remover it but we never have.
I have never touched the scalping wheels as far as adjustment.
Yes 1/4" lower in the front.
We only run high lift blades to cut bahia grass. Also we change them normally first thing in the morning and then some time before lunch many days and then some days early afternoon.
That is on mowers that run all day long either cutting acreage or 15 or 16 yards a day that are smaller.
A tiger cat will cut 2 acres of decently heavy bahia grass but if it is really deep it will not cut it that fast and it will work on blades. I have never seen anything that will out cut one on Bahia grass.
#9
T
tommygun715
Just thought I would post an update. So jekjr, I did exactly what you described above. Along with the manual and your detailed instruction, I was surprised to find the the left rear of the deck was higher than the right rear by almost 1/2 in! So there's no way it could've been inspected before delivery. Anyway, It wasn't too hard to adjust the deck either. So with 1/4in downward pitch in the front, newly sharpened blades and equal tire pressure, I was amazed at the results! My TC2 now cuts like I expected it too. So "thanks so much" for the instruction. My only other question, what psi do you have your tires? Do you go by the manual, or something slightly different? Thx again!
T
tommygun715
The way we check is:
First check tire pressure and make sure that it is exactly as it should be. A slight differential in the rear times can make a difference on complete level.
Then after that is achieved we place the mower on a level concrete surface.
Set the deck at normal cutting height. Normally for us 3.
Then measure from the top of the deck to the floor at both rear sides. This should be an exact measurement.
Then check the from measurement.
It should be 1/4" lower. You don't want any more than 1/4" but it needs to be slightly lower than the back.
Then we take a tape measure and me
We run the baffle that is underneath in the highest position to cut bahia grass.
I have been told you can completely remover it but we never have.
I have never touched the scalping wheels as far as adjustment.
Yes 1/4" lower in the front.
We only run high lift blades to cut bahia grass. Also we change them normally first thing in the morning and then some time before lunch many days and then some days early afternoon.
That is on mowers that run all day long either cutting acreage or 15 or 16 yards a day that are smaller.
A tiger cat will cut 2 acres of decently heavy bahia grass but if it is really deep it will not cut it that fast and it will work on blades. I have never seen anything that will out cut one on Bahia grass.
Just thought I would post an update. So jekjr, I did exactly what you described above. Along with the manual and your detailed instruction, I was surprised to find the the left rear of the deck was higher than the right rear by almost 1/2 in! So there's no way it could've been inspected before delivery. Anyway, It wasn't too hard to adjust the deck either. So with 1/4in downward pitch in the front, newly sharpened blades and equal tire pressure, I was amazed at the results! My TC2 now cuts like I expected it too. So "thanks so much" for the instruction. My only other question, what psi do you have your tires? Do you go by the manual, or something slightly different? Thx again!
#10
jekjr
I run them a little higher normally because I am heavy. If they are a little high they will in my opinion handle hills running across them better to keep them from making them look like you are running a low tire........
Tire pressure is critical that you keep them correct from side to side. In other words same pressure in both rear tires. Cutting grass that is not real tall where you are running flat out wide open a small differential is noticeable on the cut.
jekjr
Just thought I would post an update. So jekjr, I did exactly what you described above. Along with the manual and your detailed instruction, I was surprised to find the the left rear of the deck was higher than the right rear by almost 1/2 in! So there's no way it could've been inspected before delivery. Anyway, It wasn't too hard to adjust the deck either. So with 1/4in downward pitch in the front, newly sharpened blades and equal tire pressure, I was amazed at the results! My TC2 now cuts like I expected it too. So "thanks so much" for the instruction. My only other question, what psi do you have your tires? Do you go by the manual, or something slightly different? Thx again!
I run them a little higher normally because I am heavy. If they are a little high they will in my opinion handle hills running across them better to keep them from making them look like you are running a low tire........
Tire pressure is critical that you keep them correct from side to side. In other words same pressure in both rear tires. Cutting grass that is not real tall where you are running flat out wide open a small differential is noticeable on the cut.
#11
jekjr
The higher the baffle the better it will cut tall stemmed grass. The lower the baffle you will get less blow out cutting with a mulching plate. I have never taken a baffle out but I am seriously considering doing so.
jekjr
Hi. Glad I found this thread. I just purchased a new TC2 52" Kawasaki last fall but my mowing started this year. I'm particular about a nice clean even cut, which is why I went with this mower and the velocity deck. But I don't think it's cutting like it should, especially around the tire track area. Like someone else said here, I have to double cut in order to make it look nice, but even then, I can find some flaws. On slopes, it will scalp on the low side. I've cut anywhere between 3.5" to 2.75", I've gone slow, but like someone else said, it might cut better going a little faster. The only adjustments I've made has been with the baffle. I lowered it 1 notch to create more vacuum(?) and thought it helped some, but not sure. I slightly over inflated the rear tires to 20lbs, but that really hasn't helped.
I can post pics, but I think my WI yard is a mix of rye, fescue and Kentucky Blue grass. My yard is pretty thick since it is irrigated and gets (3) fertilizer treatments yearly.
So how, or what is the best way to check for a level deck?
Ideally, should it be 1/4" lower in the front?
What is the proper position of the anti-scalping wheels?
Would high lift blades make a difference?
Should I raise that baffle higher?
Thx!
The higher the baffle the better it will cut tall stemmed grass. The lower the baffle you will get less blow out cutting with a mulching plate. I have never taken a baffle out but I am seriously considering doing so.
#12
jekjr
jekjr
One other warning in this thread.
We run high lift blades. HOWEVER remember this.
They will sandblast your deck bad. At about 800 hours or there about more or less you will start having holes come in the top of your deck. We just weld patches over them either inside or outside depending and run them. Then at about 1000 hours the air baffles around the blades on the back sides will wear through. Again we go to a metal shop and have some rolled and lay them in and weld them in. I think a new deck was priced to me at around $1200. That is just the deck. No rollers, spindles....... Just deck. They sell a sand kit for them but I have never seen one so I do not know how much it costs nor what it looks like or how to install it. The oldest mower I have has had all of this done to it and honestly it cuts better than it did new. I have one mower than needs it and another that is well on the way to needing it.
We run high lift blades. HOWEVER remember this.
They will sandblast your deck bad. At about 800 hours or there about more or less you will start having holes come in the top of your deck. We just weld patches over them either inside or outside depending and run them. Then at about 1000 hours the air baffles around the blades on the back sides will wear through. Again we go to a metal shop and have some rolled and lay them in and weld them in. I think a new deck was priced to me at around $1200. That is just the deck. No rollers, spindles....... Just deck. They sell a sand kit for them but I have never seen one so I do not know how much it costs nor what it looks like or how to install it. The oldest mower I have has had all of this done to it and honestly it cuts better than it did new. I have one mower than needs it and another that is well on the way to needing it.