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Throttle body linkage on a 10 HP OHC Briggs

#1

S

Sugar Bear

I use this engine on a small sawmill.

The linkage for the throttle seems broken on mine. The linkage is on top of the engine and under the gas tank which I have removed and now have access to the linkage. Is there any place I can go or look to find out how it is supposed to be set up?

Thanks

Model Number on engine is Briggs and Stratton 20S232 146F


#2

R

Rivets

Can’t help unless you give us a good model number, the one you supplied is missing some digits. Could it be a 20S232-1246-F1? If it is there is no fuel tank attached to this engine. You think the linkage is broken, what gives you that opinion. Are you talking about the throttle linkage, choke linkage or governor lnkage? I have seen linkage that has been hooked up incorrectly, but don’t think I’ve seen broken links.


#3

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Sugar Bear can you take a pic or 2 and post them ??? Can you make a video and pop it up on You tube ???

I have a engine similar to yours, but your explanation to me is not clear to what you are explaining.....

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!


#4

EngineMan

EngineMan

If its the family of Briggs and Stratton 20S232-0036-F1 - Briggs & Stratton Horizontal Engine, they have the fuel tank on the engine.....

if you can take a photo and up load it here we should be able to tell you if anything is missing.


#5

S

Sugar Bear

IMG_5228.jpgIMG_5229.jpg

Hopefully the photos are uploaded to this thread.

My engine model number is a 20S232 1246F1

Under model number it also says ...

CODE 121016YD ( I suspect this is a date of some kind and if so the manufacture should be kind enough to say so rather then be cryptic about it ) No big deal just a WTF? from a normal thinking mind!

This engine has been mounted on a small sawmill. It is 6 years old. Has been used about 150 hours only. Granted high torque use on logs 20-24 inches in diameter. Has had EXCELLENT care. Stored in my living room when not in use. Air filters changed and oil changed like it was a good mama's baby. So please don't go there.

NO FUEL stored in tank or carb. No old fuel used.

About two years ago the starter chord seized on me. Took the cowling off and replaced one of those white polymer cog dogs. It was broken off and dislocated.
Fixed the problem with the starter. Engine FAD'ed ( Functioned *** Designed ) for next 25 hours. (1.5 years )

10 days put brand new fuel in engine and cut two 21 inch white oak logs. Made about $1000 worth of gorgeous white oak lumber.

Woodmizers mill is an excellent product and all manufactures of machinery should be schooled with Woodmizers documentation policies which are impeccable such that even idiots like me can figure it out and fix the problem. Unfortunately and understandably Woodmizer does not document peripheral products such as Briggs and Stratton products.

Have three more white oak logs so on this past Friday went to start the engine and starter was seized up again. Thought dog again. Took starter cowling off and dogs both fine. Piston Seized from something. Removed plug and let breath out. Reattached spark plug and started fine. Cut about two feet of my third log and then all of a sudden engine stopped dead, IMMEDIATELY!

So far have checked plug wire with tester wired with gator clip end to plug and post into wire plug boot. It lights up on a chord pull. Put new plug in anyway and still no fire.

This engine does have a fuel tank attached to it. It came that way from Woodmizer at least.

I have removed it off the top of the throttle linkage so I could gain access to it.

I am not certain anything is wrong with throttle linkage but attached are two photos of it. One shows throttle lever to left (left) and the other to right (MAX) and the push rod that goes to the left over to the top of carb is in the same position in both photos. That does not seem right to me but perhaps it is????

Thanks for reading my rant and hopefully the pics are attached to this.

Rob


#6

R

Rivets

Now that we have a better picture of what is going on , we can supply a little help. First the linkage is hooked up correctly. I suspect you may have a hydro locking in the cylinder. If the engine is still seized remove the spark plug and slowly pull on the start rope. If the engine will turn over, it may spray gas out the spark plug hole. If this happens, please check the oil level, I’ll bet it is way over the full mark. If I am correct you will need to do two things. First, have the carb rebuilt as the float needle is not working properly, sealing in the float bowl, allowing raw fuel to flow through the carb into the cylinder. This raw fuel is also leaking passed the rings and mixing with the oil, meaning the oil will need to be replaced.


#7

S

Sugar Bear

Thanks for the reply.

Your a nice guy and smart and smarter then me. But please do not bet my money. Besides the new gambling laws are promoting family disasters.

We now have enough of that kind of problem. We do not need more of it.

Oil level is PERFECT on stick! Oil looks exactly like new still.

Engine turns over fine now. Was seized temporarily before I cut the two feet of log on Friday (two days ago). Took the plug out before this, pulled the starter and it spit a tiny amount of fuel or oil out ... enough to get a drop on you if you put yourself in front of it ... and that is it. Put plug back in and started engine. Started fine. Throttled to full with engine sounding like a healthy large male mountain lion. Ripped through two feet of the outer edge of a white oak log. Not a lot of Torque on it at that point because outer edge of log but it suddenly/immediately quit running. No it did not run out of gas ... gas was about 7 days old stored in the engines tank. Was rainy out for those 7 days but engine was well covered and no sign of anything precipitation getting on engine.

Engine has turned over fine ever since but will not fire. Spark tester showed spark to plug yesterday.

With the throttle lever to left and the throttle lever to right the push rod to the left and out of picture to the carb is in the same position. Is that correct? Yes or no?

Thanks Rob


#8

R

Rivets

My bet now is a sheared flywheel key. Spark tester will show spark, but not at the right time. Need to pull the flywheel to check.


#9

S

Sugar Bear

Checking the Flywheel key sounds like a can of worms for me. Do I need a flywheel puller for this operation??


#10

S

Sugar Bear

I did get a loud backfire on the engine when I previously shut it down a week earlier. Shut it down by turning off the fuel line. Perhaps I should not shut it down that way.

Would a backfire on a engine possibly contribute to flywheel key damage?


#11

S

Sugar Bear

The starter rope handle has been pulled violently out of my hand from time to time on starts since about hour 10 of the roughly 150 hours I have put on the engine over 6 years.

I guess this would indicate the flywheel key has been a little out since the beginning???

Perhaps either the White Oak I just cut. The hardest wood I have cut since owning the saw and or the backfire sent the key over the top?

Eah????


#12

R

Rivets

Remember when I said we needed a good picture of what you are seeing to help you? Finally got the last part of your masterpiece. How much money can I pull on a bad key? Don’t need a puller, there are many videos on the web to show you how to do it. Not going to tell you how I do it, because it is too easy to damage something expensive if you make a mistake.


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