It's been pretty dry up here too, but obviously not as dry as Texas as I've still been cutting grass every week. Sorry to hear about your heath issues and glad you are feeling better. I'll be 55 in two weeks and have all sorts of muscle & joint pain to deal with but otherwise healthy at the moment.
Anyway, I've been thinking about getting a lawn mower blade sharpener from these guys …
https://www.allamericansharpener.com/shop/
… and one of the things you need to consider is the sharpening angle.
All my Lawn-Boy blades are ground at a std. 30Deg angle, where the GW 333041179 is at a 45Deg angle. In communicating with AAS, we're both guessing the 45Deg angle is due to the GW blade being "thinner":
Oregon L-B 21" Gator = 3/16" thick
OEM L-B 21" Tri-Cut = 0.127" thick
GW 333041179 = 0.119" thick (incl. paint)
To be able to grind the 45Deg angle, I'd have to buy their most expensive $205 adjustable model … vs … $160 for their fixed 30Deg model. They also have a $185 two stop model for grinding bi-level mulching blades similar to the GW blade but with a 30Deg std. cut not 45Deg. My thinking (as well as theirs) is the 30Deg angle cuts better than 45Deg, but would re-grinding the GW blade to 30Deg effect how long it remains sharp ?? It is quite a bit thinner than the Oregon blade, but really not that much thinner than the OE L-B blade.
So … all this got me thinking again about the this Heavy-Duty "Unicorn" blade.
You don't mention a change in thickness or cutting angle nor does your comparison picture show a noticeable difference, so I'm now curious if there is any difference in either the thickness or cutting angle.
Let me know … thanks,
Doug