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Hey guys, went out to the shop were I got my 7084 to get some more parts for restoration. Came across two used lawnboys for sale up front both appear to be the same amount of wear on them but the duraforce self propelled 6.5 only had a 250.00 price tag, the silver series 4.5 horse same self propelled had a price tag of 299.00. Says alot about the quality differance!!!!:confused :confused2:

OOPS SORRY!!!! I meant silver series!!:tongue::biggrin:

I own both myself, I actually prefer the 4.5 hp Silver series self-propelled. It is lighter. The engine is plenty powerful enough for all grass. It doesn't have surging issues. As far as price comparisons, were they both steel-deck mowers? The aluminum deck models are more valuable, and lighter!!

My research has led me to believe the 4.5 v force is a cheap pos but I have no issues with mine for now.Starts and runs great vibrates my hands off and is loud but works good.The duraforce when rejetted is a much better running engine and better built.

beg said:

My research has led me to believe the 4.5 v force is a cheap pos but I have no issues with mine for now.Starts and runs great vibrates my hands off and is loud but works good.The duraforce when rejetted is a much better running engine and better built.

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The blade might be install in the wrong position.

I bought mine used and it has the extra mulch blade.I thought they all vibrate.guess I better look at it for a bent crank.

beg said:

I bought mine used and it has the extra mulch blade.I thought they all vibrate.guess I better look at it for a bent crank.

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On a F engine when the piston is at top dead center the blade should be parallel with the bore.

I own F series, V series (Silver 4.5 hp), and 6.5 hp Duraforce mowers. NONE of them vibrate much, actually about the same with a balanced blade and unbent crankshaft. I have never bothered with blade position when installing new blade. Most likely you have a bent shaft (crankshaft below the motor). That is only fixed by replacing it.

impalass said:

On a F engine when the piston is at top dead center the blade should be parallel with the bore.

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Never know that. The way I look at lawnboy blade mounting plate design it can rotate at any position, nothing indicate it need to be parallel with the bore in TDC . I do work with D.F.V. and Duraforce engine.

andy135 said:

Never know that. The way I look at lawnboy blade mounting plate design it can rotate at any position, nothing indicate it need to be parallel with the bore in TDC . I do work with D.F.V. and Duraforce engine.

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Workshop manual gives you that information.

impalass said:

Workshop manual gives you that information.

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Yes, the workshop manual does tell you about setting the blade, "IF" there is found to be excessive vibration. I'm saying my mowers don't vibrate any more than when new, regardless of what position the blade installed. I bought several Lawnboys new since the 1980's.

Phototone said:

Yes, the workshop manual does tell you about setting the blade, "IF" there is found to be excessive vibration. I'm saying my mowers don't vibrate any more than when new, regardless of what position the blade installed. I bought several Lawnboys new since the 1980's.

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Thanks guys, good to know that. I've just put a Duraforce steel deck motor onto an aluminum deck.

andy135 said:

Thanks guys, good to know that. I've just put a Duraforce steel deck motor onto an aluminum deck.

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You do know that the muffler plate ( the part the engine block is bolted to) that bolts to the deck may be different between steel deck and aluminum deck mowers. The steel deck plate raises the engine up higher to compensate for the thinness of the steel deck, so the blade sits at correct height. If you use steel deck muffler plate your blade may be too recessed in the deck for proper cutting.

do you mean I cant beat the crankshat back with a 15lb mallet and use a stick with a nail in it for a dial guage? I am going to check all my f motor lb's for proper blade install as that makes sense to me because the blade inertia must help balance out the motor.

Phototone said:

You do know that the muffler plate ( the part the engine block is bolted to) that bolts to the deck may be different between steel deck and aluminum deck mowers. The steel deck plate raises the engine up higher to compensate for the thinness of the steel deck, so the blade sits at correct height. If you use steel deck muffler plate your blade may be too recessed in the deck for proper cutting.

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I do notice the muffler plate have to follow the deck not the motor, not only for the blade height but the height of self propel drive belt. There isn't too much clearance on the deck belt channel so proper muffler plate must be use. The project is done and work fine. I pick up this aluminum lawnboy with a bad motor even reed valve is rusted. Then another rust out steel deck Duraforce mower in the neighborhood to complete this marriage. Did try to install different motor but this aluminum deck opening is too big for other motor, Plus the height adjustment for drive belt will need a custom made mounting plate. For fun.