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After playing with my second Tecumseh 10 Hp. engine I can see why they went out of business!
Their carburetor and governor linkage suck. The first was a VM100 and the second is a TVM 220.
Both have the same governor setup and the carburetors are almost the same but the TVM 220
does not have the high speed adjustment on the bottom of the bowl. :frown:

silver1 said:

After playing with my second Tecumseh 10 Hp. engine I can see why they went out of business!
Their carburetor and governor linkage suck. The first was a VM100 and the second is a TVM 220.
Both have the same governor setup and the carburetors are almost the same but the TVM 220
does not have the high speed adjustment on the bottom of the bowl. :frown:

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Did they really go out of business? I have always loathed tecumseh engines...... never can keep one running built cheap and I think they lie about power output

Tecumseh built the best snowblower engine ever made. There is no better engine than the "Snowking". Tecumseh did not go out of business due to engine quality, but due to not being able to last through the last economic downturn. I expect to see "Tecumseh" engines coming back in the next few years, as a company has purchased a vast majority of the dies and equipment from the bankrupt company.

Rivets said:

Tecumseh built the best snowblower engine ever made. There is no better engine than the "Snowking". Tecumseh did not go out of business due to engine quality, but due to not being able to last through the last economic downturn. I expect to see "Tecumseh" engines coming back in the next few years, as a company has purchased a vast majority of the dies and equipment from the bankrupt company.

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Why is it the best. And why didn't they keep the quality on their other machines?

Why doesn't every manufacturer have the same quality in everything they make? I can't answer that question. Just know that having worked on engines for over 40 years, Tecumseh engines are good engines. Why do you say they are bad?

Rivets said:

Why doesn't every manufacturer have the same quality in everything they make? I can't answer that question. Just know that having worked on engines for over 40 years, Tecumseh engines are good engines. Why do you say they are bad?

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Like I said I have never kept one running. I have 3 out in my back yard I can't get running. And am going to give to my scrap metal guy.

Didn't answer my question tho. Why is that the best snow thrower engine?

Rivets said:

Tecumseh built the best snowblower engine ever made. There is no better engine than the "Snowking". Tecumseh did not go out of business due to engine quality, but due to not being able to last through the last economic downturn. I expect to see "Tecumseh" engines coming back in the next few years, as a company has purchased a vast majority of the dies and equipment from the bankrupt company.

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AGREED - Tecumseh in My opinion is 1 of the better built small engines to be found - The simplicity of Their design is on purpose, Less does in fact mean better (less things to break) Quality didn't destroy the company, POOR MANAGEMENT DID...... Along with agreeing to unsustainable Union demands - Has doomed many companies - And Will destroy alot more - Sooner rather then later Im afraid

Because they are still running after 40 years. Don't know why you can't keep them running. If you say it is a fuel problem, simple cheap fix. Ultrasonically clean the carb and rebuild with part #631021B. Use non ethanol fuel, no more problems.

Rivets said:

Because they are still running after 40 years. Don't know why you can't keep them running. If you say it is a fuel problem, simple cheap fix. Ultrasonically clean the carb and rebuild with part #631021B. Use non ethanol fuel, no more problems.

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One is froze (my sister ran no oil) one has some piston scarring. And one I honestly don't know cleaned soaked and rebuilt carb replaced fuel lines. New head gasket all the inerds looked good. The compression is good has spark. And new plug new wire just won't fire. Even with starter fluid. It'll just spin and spin and won't actually start.

We always had good success with Tecumseh engines. Had them on mowers and tillers both and they ran and ran and ran.

I don't understand your logic, but then again as an old fart I don't understand a lot of things. One tight due to no oil, bad engine? One cylinder scarring, probably due to poor maintenance, air cleaner or oil, bad engine? One can't get running, bad engine? if you are using these three engines as your basis to say a company builds poor equipment, I don't want you working on my equipment. You have not had enough experience to make those calls and with the "Snowking" engine, you have not had to work on snowblowers where it is "King". Not going to change your mind so I'm out of this one.

well for you guys that like Tecumseh engines i wish you would come over i have 15 of them sitting around all need carbs and who wants to put a 90 dollar carb on a 30 dollar mower come get them lol

Guess I have been lucky. I have a very old tech. powered mower that was my dad's and it runs great.

I can see that I sparked some interest! The basic motor is ok but the carb and linkage
is my problem. The top plate is attached by 2 bolts only on the right side and can be
moved for adjustments. The TVM 220 top plate does not align correctly as the choke
leaver does not meet the carb to open the choke with the alignment pin in place. The
top plate can bend if something pushes down on it. I'm still working on it. I have the
Tecumseh technician's handbook. I have not found a correct replacement carburetor.

LB

Rivets said:

Because they are still running after 40 years. Don't know why you can't keep them running. If you say it is a fuel problem, simple cheap fix. Ultrasonically clean the carb and rebuild with part #631021B. Use non ethanol fuel, no more problems.

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I will have see if I can find a Ultrasonic cleaner. Had one some time ago. Gave it to a lady friend to clean her jewelry and it never returned.
My top plate has very loose arms on it. The spring (pic) is temporary until the cable gets free.
I would like to see the back in business just for parts.
Today it will not start without carb. cleaner and it will not run as if no fuel, but the fuel filter is full. (?)

silver1 said:

I will have see if I can find a Ultrasonic cleaner. Had one some time ago. Gave it to a lady friend to clean her jewelry and it never returned.
My top plate has very loose arms on it. The spring (pic) is temporary until the cable gets free.
I would like to see the back in business just for parts.
Today it will not start without carb. cleaner and it will not run as if no fuel, but the fuel filter is full. (?)

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:laughing: Cleaned unit again. There was more bits of gunk. I saw that I had the choke assembled wrong:frown:
I did see as ad for a rebuild kit that included the screws for both choke and throttle plates. You would think if you were
to replace the screw each time you remove them it would be part of all kits. Both my plates would not move.
Ordered a rebuild kit and new float.:thumbsup:

silver1 said:

:laughing: Cleaned unit again. There was more bits of gunk. I saw that I had the choke assembled wrong:frown:
I did see as ad for a rebuild kit that included the screws for both choke and throttle plates. You would think if you were
to replace the screw each time you remove them it would be part of all kits. Both my plates would not move.
Ordered a rebuild kit and new float.:thumbsup:

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Well while I wait for my parts to arrive I installed the carb. and it starts at full throttle + choke.....runs at high RPMs but as you decrease the throttle
to haft way it stalls out.

Did you clean the small idle jet under thke black plastic cover on the side off the carb. This jet is extremely small on the end and if plugged, that will cause your problem.

Rivets said:

Tecumseh built the best snowblower engine ever made. There is no better engine than the "Snowking". Tecumseh did not go out of business due to engine quality, but due to not being able to last through the last economic downturn. I expect to see "Tecumseh" engines coming back in the next few years, as a company has purchased a vast majority of the dies and equipment from the bankrupt company.

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Tecumseh had been combined with LCT and is now Lauson Engine.

Rivets said:

Did you clean the small idle jet under thke black plastic cover on the side off the carb. This jet is extremely small on the end and if plugged, that will cause your problem.

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There is nothing black on this carb. I did not remove the Welch plugs inside or out. The carb. kits I have looked at do not have them in it.
The Welch plug on the inside of the bowl does have a small hole on the side that had some gunk in it and I cleaned it more. I'm going out to
work on it some more.
Well today after putting the governor position back to the original place the engine again fired right up but now is "hunting" @ both high and lower speeds.

Rivets said:

Tecumseh built the best snowblower engine ever made. There is no better engine than the "Snowking". Tecumseh did not go out of business due to engine quality, but due to not being able to last through the last economic downturn. I expect to see "Tecumseh" engines coming back in the next few years, as a company has purchased a vast majority of the dies and equipment from the bankrupt company.

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I still my 1990 snowblower with the 10HP snowking engine and i always use 10w30 synthetic oil.

Please post you model numbers so I can see which carb you have.

I have the 10hp Tecumseh Snow King on my 1995 MTD snow blower and it runs like a champ. Always starts on the first or second pull, even after summer storage. I also have a Tecumseh HH120 (12hp) in my 1967 Sears SS12 which also runs great. It says 12hp, but man can that tractor pull..:smile:
Bruce

Rivets said:

Please post you model numbers so I can see which carb you have.

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502.256172 (Sears) Tecumseh/craftsman 143-346062. I get TVM220-157069E. Carb.= 640078
Thanks
LB

The correct replacement carb for the model number is Tecumseh part number 632991. Jacks Small Engine has them for just over $100.00

Rivets said:

The correct replacement carb for the model number is Tecumseh part number 632991. Jacks Small Engine has them for just over $100.00

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Thanks. Do you know of a complete rebuild kit with welch plugs? See the photo of a 632991.......this is NOT the carb. on this tecumseh.
The left photo is the one on it now....Do you think it has been changed?

If I have not screwed up the rebuild kit for carb #632991 is #632347. Your can take the carb number to your local repair shop and have them verify it or if ordering online give them a call first.

Rivets said:

If I have not screwed up the rebuild kit for carb #632991 is #632347. Your can take the carb number to your local repair shop and have them verify it or if ordering online give them a call first.

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I received the 640078A carb. and I installed it. The engine runs real well with it on, but the choke is wrong and idle adjustment screw is fixed!
Snowblower????
The old carb. will go to the shop for a clean out. It should work after that.

scott47429 said:

well for you guys that like Tecumseh engines i wish you would come over i have 15 of them sitting around all need carbs and who wants to put a 90 dollar carb on a 30 dollar mower come get them lol

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Obviously, the Tecumseh weakness, other than neglect, is the carburetors..
ethanol
neglect
I do both, admittedly, so now I am running a Predator OHV (Horror Freight).
What I need now is an affordable rebuild kit...

Rivets said:

Did you clean the small idle jet under thke black plastic cover on the side off the carb. This jet is extremely small on the end and if plugged, that will cause your problem.

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Rivets,
The 640078A carb. I got did have the small BLACK plastic cover. This carb. is new and runs very well (the complete engine runs well, no smoke!),
BUT it have no adjustments and the top of the choke is for a snowblower:ashamed:. The old one (632347) will have to be rebuilt after a shop cleaning.
I don't have a sonic cleaner. I think the welch plugs need to be removed at the time of cleaning.
Thanks for your help.
LB Reno, NV

These manuals might help you.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tec...-TROUBLESHOOTING-AND-IDENTIFICATION-GUIDE.pdf

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tec...0-8HP-THRU-18HP-CAST-IRON-ENGINES-691462A.pdf

I started working on lawnmowers in 1966. Tecumseh always had a reputation. You loved them or hated them. I personally liked Tecumseh. My favorite was the VM80. I think they were maligned because a lot of mechanics didn't fully understand about replacing the points and condenser. If you didn't use the dial indicator tool to set the points break, you were lucky if they ran at all. As far as the carburetor issues, just about all the engine manufacturers went through the same problem about ethanol gas and emissions. Also if the throttle shaft was worn, they didn't run right at all. Sorry that they went out of business. I got to tour the Tecumseh plant in Grafton in the late 1970's.

Rivets said:

The correct replacement carb for the model number is Tecumseh part number 632991. Jacks Small Engine has them for just over $100.00

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$100 ???
fora carburetor ?
I can buy the complete engine for $120.....and , IMO, a better engine..
What we need is a rebuild kit that is affordable ... with ONLY the necessary parts...we have far too much waste today...

Earthworm, $100 is a little steep, but some of the larger small engine carbs can run over $200. Onan, Kohler, and Wisconsin to name a few. If you will read post#8 you will see a cheap repair kit and way to get Tecumseh carbs back into running order.

I bought a Sears Craftsman powered walk-behind mower with a 6-hp Tecumseh engine about 15 years ago. The engine was the main reason I bought that mower. During its second summer I was using it when the engine suddenly exploded out the right side - a metal-&-oil mess! Inspection showed that the Federal-Mogul piston rod broke. Needless to say, I was disappointed with Tecumseh. I took the mower back to Sears where they gave me pro-rated credit on a Poulan with a Honda engine. I've never bought anything with a Tecumseh engine since then.

I have a Tecumseh vertical on a Craftsman mower I have had since the early 80's.

I had to replace the carb a few years ago, which has a primer bulb on it, so I bypassed the original bulb located on the upper sheetmetal engine shroud.

I've used 20-20W or 30 weight oil since new, and never have had a problem. Now, 33 years later, it does burn oil, so I;ll have to re-ring the engine. No big deal.

Enthanol gas doesn't seem to faze it, but I do mix about 8 oz. of MMO in five gallons of gas.

I'm still using the original spark plug, having regapped it many times.

I think longevity of this, and any engine depends on regular oil changes, not lugging the engine in tall grass, and a proper pickling of the engine in the off-season. Best thing I've found to do that is to run the engine until it's up to temp, then remove the air filter and choke the egnine down with a spray of WD-40. Just spray it in, and fog the neighborhood for a few minutes, then give it a good "goosh" of WD and choke it down. Dump out the gas, and it's good to store, and will start up on the second pull in the spring.

The best engine, in my view, is the old Kohler K-series. The block and bore is cast iron, and there isn't anything on the engine that can't be fixed or rebuilt. I have a 49-year old K-241 in my '64 Cub Cadet 100, and in 1985 I honed the bore, installed a new piston with rings, replaced the exhaust valve for good measure, adjusted all valves to the low limit (closest allowable dimension), planed the head, installed new head bolts and safety wired them. With all the gaskets, this took me a day, and cost me about $100. Not bad. I haven't done anything but change oil with diesel 15-40 since (this has the necessary zinc to protect the flat tappets).

Don't use API Service SG or higher in these engines!

They deserved to go out of business. They were good engines up until about the early 90's then everything stagnated. I have always thought that they lied about horsepower. You can take two engines, one is a 3.5hp from an MTD mower, the other is a 5hp from a Craftsman, stand them side by side and they are identical. The carbs are the same and if you take off the heads, everything is the same underneath. How can they achieve a 40% increase in HP without changing the carb or the bore or the compression? Similarly, on some of the old Craftsmen (especially the Eager-1 models), Tecumseh advertised, "Oil Pressure Pump" on their decal. What rubbish. There is and never was a pressure pump on these small engines. I think they should have been fined for misleading advertising. We should all be grateful that they no longer produce this rubbish.

In my experience, their horizontal shaft engines for snow blowers are quite good. I have one and its been a great engine for the last 8 years we've owned it.

Now their vertical shaft engines for walk behind mowers on the other hand...

Going by experience, I find their carburetors to be extremely finicky and can easily go from running great to not running at all. They also have weird quirks that B&S Quantums don't have, like how the bowl must be in the correct position or how the float is adjustable. For what purpose does that serve? B&S float carburetors on Quantums are non adjustable in that respect and I've never wished they were...because they were always correct. I remember the first time I dealt with and the adjustable float. I didn't know it was adjustable, and the new one I got to replace the corroded one had just a little to much range of movement and would flood the carburetor, and leak onto the deck. It drove me mad trying to figure it out until I finally discovered the tab was used to adjust it.

Then there's the more serious issue of connecting rods. I don't know what it is about these engines, but I have 3 of them sitting in the garage with blown connecting rods, one with a hole punched through the block. A running one I have sounds like it has the beginning of a rod knock, and I can hear my neighbor's Craftsman knocking away when he uses it. Only a matter of time before I hear a loud bang while he's mowing! I have yet to run into a B&S engine with a connecting rod problem.

hcooper said:

I have a Tecumseh vertical on a Craftsman mower I have had since the early 80's.

I had to replace the carb a few years ago, which has a primer bulb on it, so I bypassed the original bulb located on the upper sheetmetal engine shroud.

I've used 20-20W or 30 weight oil since new, and never have had a problem. Now, 33 years later, it does burn oil, so I;ll have to re-ring the engine. No big deal.

Enthanol gas doesn't seem to faze it, but I do mix about 8 oz. of MMO in five gallons of gas.

I'm still using the original spark plug, having regapped it many times.

I think longevity of this, and any engine depends on regular oil changes, not lugging the engine in tall grass, and a proper pickling of the engine in the off-season. Best thing I've found to do that is to run the engine until it's up to temp, then remove the air filter and choke the egnine down with a spray of WD-40. Just spray it in, and fog the neighborhood for a few minutes, then give it a good "goosh" of WD and choke it down. Dump out the gas, and it's good to store, and will start up on the second pull in the spring.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, hcooper!

Rivets said:

These manuals might help you.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tec...-TROUBLESHOOTING-AND-IDENTIFICATION-GUIDE.pdf

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tec...0-8HP-THRU-18HP-CAST-IRON-ENGINES-691462A.pdf

Click to expand...

Thanks for the links Rivets!

I have a stubborn Tec carb off a 7HP I cleaned a bunch of times but the blower is still running lean, surges badly or stalls if the RPMs are lowered. The RPMs will even out if the choke is clicked just one position from full open. So, it must be almost fixed, with more cleaning of the idle circuit hope it's good, these manuals should help.

tommyb said:

Thanks for the links Rivets!

I have a stubborn Tec carb off a 7HP I cleaned a bunch of times but the blower is still running lean, surges badly or stalls if the RPMs are lowered. The RPMs will even out if the choke is clicked just one position from full open. So, it must be almost fixed, with more cleaning of the idle circuit hope it's good, these manuals should help.

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Update...

After re-cleaning the carb's idle and primary jets, I reassembled the carb and went to mount it to the motor. I noticed the carb diagram in the manual, the main needle was meant to have an O ring and washer after the spring... hmmmm. I sweep the garage floor and find the O ring and washer! D'oh! They must have fallen out when I first unscrewed it to checked if the jets were gunked up. Anyway, it's back running great, thanks again for the great site and help! :thumbsup:



Edit: forgot to mention, adjusted the bowl float as well... used a 13/64th drill set it.

Please help ... I have mid 70's vintage Yardman Snow Bird with a Tecumseh 10 hp. For the last several years, it would only run with the choke on 1/2 to 3/4. I replaced the head casket and plug and it still wouldn't run right. Today I took the carb off, removed the bowl and gave it all a good cleaning. I reinstalled, set the carb as specified per the manuals noted in the previous post, for a series III unit. The engine started right up but wants to run full out, no slow idle, only fast. The numbers on the carb are 692 7H19.

Any advise would help ... do I replace the carb or rebuild it? Thank you!

I meant to note that Lauson Engine is on the bottom of the bowl.

vtalmadge said:

Please help ... I have mid 70's vintage Yardman Snow Bird with a Tecumseh 10 hp. For the last several years, it would only run with the choke on 1/2 to 3/4. I replaced the head casket and plug and it still wouldn't run right. Today I took the carb off, removed the bowl and gave it all a good cleaning. I reinstalled, set the carb as specified per the manuals noted in the previous post, for a series III unit. The engine started right up but wants to run full out, no slow idle, only fast. The numbers on the carb are 692 7H19.

Any advise would help ... do I replace the carb or rebuild it? Thank you!

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Did you hook up the govenor and throttle correctly or bent the rods when you removed the carb

I was careful not to bend them. I've seen some other post about the govenor and throttle linkage not being the best design and I can't find a diagram showing th propper setup. I was going to take a pic of the carb & setup before I started but needless to say, I didn't.

Brucebotti said:

I have the 10hp Tecumseh Snow King on my 1995 MTD snow blower and it runs like a champ. Always starts on the first or second pull, even after summer storage. I also have a Tecumseh HH120 (12hp) in my 1967 Sears SS12 which also runs great. It says 12hp, but man can that tractor pull..:smile:
Bruce

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Agreed. My MTD snowblower is also a 1995, but a 5hp Snow King on a 22" two-stage. It's been all I needed since then, but the snow here at my new place is putting a lot of strain on it. I probably need something the size of yours. Just changed the oil, plug, and belts and adjusted the carb and it runs like a champ again. Saving the belts, because I couldn't believe how good a shape they were in for being 18 years old.:laughing: I have no complaints for Tecumseh-I have 3 of them that have never given me anything but good service. One is a 3.5 on a Rupp mini-bike from 1970.

Some of there stuff is still made peerless Transmissions have the name Tecumseh on them

If you can, take some pics of how you have it set-up now. I have done hundreds of these engines and if I can't figure out how it should be hooked up there are a few more of us old farts who should be about to help you. Close-ups of each part and some of the entire section. Remember, we aren't there and you want to give us as much info with pics as you can.