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Tecumseh LV195EA engine issues
#1
D
Daniels45
D
Daniels45
Ive been having this issue for a while now and cleaning out the carburator and doing the carb repair kit thing didn't help. Spark plugs and filter have also been replaced. The issue is when I first crank it after a 4 push prime, the mower will start only to quit about 1 minut later. This scenario will repeat itself about 4 to 5 times. Afterwards it seems to run fine except when I start mowing longer grass and it starts to bog down and quit. I think I may have to bring it in for repairs but not sure if just buying a new mower would be a better idea unless someone here can help me troubleshoot the issue. Would love to have this thing working like new without having to pay too much.
Update: I redid the carb cleaning and still the same issues. Also tried without the gas cap on to see if the cap vents were clogged up and still stalling. Only thing I can think of now is maybe the coil needs to be replaced. Anything else I may be missing ?
Update: I redid the carb cleaning and still the same issues. Also tried without the gas cap on to see if the cap vents were clogged up and still stalling. Only thing I can think of now is maybe the coil needs to be replaced. Anything else I may be missing ?
#2
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
When you cleaned the carb, did you replace the float needle and seat? Tecumseh part number 631021B. Here is a procedure to do so.
Needle and seat replacement
Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.
I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.
With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.
PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
Needle and seat replacement
Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.
I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.
With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.
PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
#3
D
Daniels45
Yes I replaced all the stuff that came in the carb repair kit including all Orings needle and float. I passed through wire mesh through all holes. I cleaned off the rust on the coil contact surfaces and made sure that I had a .012" gap. Only things remaining to do is to check the flywheel key, compression and that air intake hose that connects into the carb. Seems a bit loose.
Just a bit more info on my issues. When I first start the engine it will run fine with fast rpms and then as it warms up the governor will move and slow the engine down till it stalls. Maybe I just need a governor adjustment ? Can this be done form outside the engine or do I need to take the engine apart ?
D
Daniels45
When you cleaned the carb, did you replace the float needle and seat? Tecumseh part number 631021B. Here is a procedure to do so.
Needle and seat replacement
Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.
I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.
With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.
PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
Yes I replaced all the stuff that came in the carb repair kit including all Orings needle and float. I passed through wire mesh through all holes. I cleaned off the rust on the coil contact surfaces and made sure that I had a .012" gap. Only things remaining to do is to check the flywheel key, compression and that air intake hose that connects into the carb. Seems a bit loose.
Just a bit more info on my issues. When I first start the engine it will run fine with fast rpms and then as it warms up the governor will move and slow the engine down till it stalls. Maybe I just need a governor adjustment ? Can this be done form outside the engine or do I need to take the engine apart ?
#4
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
First, reset the armature air gap at .010 inches. Here is a manual which explains how to adjust the governor.
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tec...P-4-CYCLE-L-HEAD-FLAT-HEAD-ENGINES-692509.pdf
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tec...P-4-CYCLE-L-HEAD-FLAT-HEAD-ENGINES-692509.pdf
#5
D
Daniels45
Armature air gap is .010" gapped using 3 pieces of paper which I measured with a caliper.
Heres a small video of my issue which I also posted in the lawn boy forum.
D
Daniels45
First, reset the armature air gap at .010 inches. Here is a manual which explains how to adjust the governor.
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tec...P-4-CYCLE-L-HEAD-FLAT-HEAD-ENGINES-692509.pdf
Armature air gap is .010" gapped using 3 pieces of paper which I measured with a caliper.
Heres a small video of my issue which I also posted in the lawn boy forum.
#6
D
Daniels45
D
Daniels45
OK a small update here. I read up on the governor and it would seem that mine works as intended. You can see it in action in the video where as the engine slows down the governor rod pushes on the throttle body plate and opens up which should give the engine more fuel hence more rpm but it stalls instead.
The only explanation I can think of is that either I need to replace head gasket and fuel intake gasket due to leaks or the carburator is still at fault and although I've cleaned it numerous times maybe I will just replace it.
The only explanation I can think of is that either I need to replace head gasket and fuel intake gasket due to leaks or the carburator is still at fault and although I've cleaned it numerous times maybe I will just replace it.
#7
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Just checked your video and this is a fuel starvation problem. Did your replace the float needle and seat? Did you clean the jet behind the black cap?
#8
D
Daniels45
Yes I did all that but it would seem to me if I had a fuel starvation issue then it would always quit on me...not just after the first 3 or 4 starts. No ?
D
Daniels45
Just checked your video and this is a fuel starvation problem. Did your replace the float needle and seat? Did you clean the jet behind the black cap?
Yes I did all that but it would seem to me if I had a fuel starvation issue then it would always quit on me...not just after the first 3 or 4 starts. No ?
#9
Two-Stroke
Ding, Ding, Ding! That was my first impression when I saw the video.
Fuel starvation problems are common while things like head gasket leaks (assuming the engine hasn't been abused) are relatively rare.
Two-Stroke
Just checked your video and this is a fuel starvation problem. Did your replace the float needle and seat? Did you clean the jet behind the black cap?
Ding, Ding, Ding! That was my first impression when I saw the video.
Fuel starvation problems are common while things like head gasket leaks (assuming the engine hasn't been abused) are relatively rare.
#10
D
Daniels45
Yeah it sure looks like that. You see I've had this issue since last summer. Had read up on the issue back then as well and everything was pointing me to a plugged up carb and since this carb had never been serviced before I purchased a carb servicing kit and replaced all replaceable parts that came in the kit and yes, I also cleaned it and poked through all the holes in the carb and on the bowl screw and also the screw behind the black plastic cap. Still had the problem and just gave up and endure the issue.
Now this summer I redid the carb cleaning thingy and replaced 2 orings that were damaged on the red tube and still it's a no go. So you see why I'm starting to look elsewhere for the cause because I've put in lots of time and effort on the carb and absolutely nothing changes.
D
Daniels45
Ding, Ding, Ding! That was my first impression when I saw the video.
Fuel starvation problems are common while things like head gasket leaks (assuming the engine hasn't been abused) are relatively rare.
Yeah it sure looks like that. You see I've had this issue since last summer. Had read up on the issue back then as well and everything was pointing me to a plugged up carb and since this carb had never been serviced before I purchased a carb servicing kit and replaced all replaceable parts that came in the kit and yes, I also cleaned it and poked through all the holes in the carb and on the bowl screw and also the screw behind the black plastic cap. Still had the problem and just gave up and endure the issue.
Now this summer I redid the carb cleaning thingy and replaced 2 orings that were damaged on the red tube and still it's a no go. So you see why I'm starting to look elsewhere for the cause because I've put in lots of time and effort on the carb and absolutely nothing changes.
#11
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
How did you set the float level? I set mine slightly rich, meaning it is a little higher on the pin side. This will give a richer mixture, especially on start up and may reduce your fuel starvation problem.
#12
D
Daniels45
If you look at the carb horizontally with the float on top it was first set so that there was a slight angle downwards towards the opposite side of the float pin retainer and I was still getting stalls. This time I widened the gap on the clip that holds the pin so that the float sits parallel with the carb and still have the same issues.
D
Daniels45
How did you set the float level? I set mine slightly rich, meaning it is a little higher on the pin side. This will give a richer mixture, especially on start up and may reduce your fuel starvation problem.
If you look at the carb horizontally with the float on top it was first set so that there was a slight angle downwards towards the opposite side of the float pin retainer and I was still getting stalls. This time I widened the gap on the clip that holds the pin so that the float sits parallel with the carb and still have the same issues.
#13
D
Daniels45
D
Daniels45
Another update. I ended up getting a new carb repair kit and a new coil after many attempt at cleaning the carb and trying out different float lvl adjustments. I now get an improvement. It stalls only once after a 30 second run and afterwards it's works like a champ.
#14
R
ryanbrewer1109
I've been working on a Toro mower with the LV195EA engine for awhile and have become very familiar with this engine and carb. I agree with the others that this is a fuel starvation issue. The true test of this would be to see if you could prevent it from stalling after your initial 30-second run by priming the pump when you think it's about to stall. If that prevents the stall, it must be a fuel issue. I found this manual to be helpful in troubleshooting my own engine. http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehcarburetormanual.pdf
First you need to identify which series your carb is, based on the pictures and descriptions in the book. Mine is a series 8. so guessing yours is too since we have the same engine. This will help you understand which design you have, so you will know which holes in the carb lead to what passages.
Check out step #21 on the link below. It shows the carb body with primer bulb, idle well welch plug and idle restrictor jet removed. The top four holes in the idle mixing well pass straight into the carb throat and the lower one intersects with the restrictor jet.
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/tecumseh_series_11.asp
I know this link refers to a series 11 carb, which you might not have, but go ahead and see if your car has the tiny holes shown in the throttle throat.
If that link gives you problems, try viewing the image directly here: http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/images/tecumseh_series11/_throttle_shutter.JPG
If your carb has these holes, read on.
You must be very careful when cleaning out these tiny holes to not enlarge them, so use a wire that is sufficiently small, then blow out with compressed air. I found it difficult to blow these out with compressed air since the air gun tip cannot really fit inside the carb throat, but for each hole I just determined where the other end of the passage went and blew out the passage from the other side. As the throttle plate is rotated by the governor linkage, the throttle plate gradually moves past each of these holes. I think one of them might be clogged, so you experience issues as the plate is transitioning from wide-open throttle to being somewhat closed.
I'd be interested to hear back if this helps.
Cheers!
R
ryanbrewer1109
Another update. I ended up getting a new carb repair kit and a new coil after many attempt at cleaning the carb and trying out different float lvl adjustments. I now get an improvement. It stalls only once after a 30 second run and afterwards it's works like a champ.
I've been working on a Toro mower with the LV195EA engine for awhile and have become very familiar with this engine and carb. I agree with the others that this is a fuel starvation issue. The true test of this would be to see if you could prevent it from stalling after your initial 30-second run by priming the pump when you think it's about to stall. If that prevents the stall, it must be a fuel issue. I found this manual to be helpful in troubleshooting my own engine. http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehcarburetormanual.pdf
First you need to identify which series your carb is, based on the pictures and descriptions in the book. Mine is a series 8. so guessing yours is too since we have the same engine. This will help you understand which design you have, so you will know which holes in the carb lead to what passages.
Check out step #21 on the link below. It shows the carb body with primer bulb, idle well welch plug and idle restrictor jet removed. The top four holes in the idle mixing well pass straight into the carb throat and the lower one intersects with the restrictor jet.
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/tecumseh_series_11.asp
I know this link refers to a series 11 carb, which you might not have, but go ahead and see if your car has the tiny holes shown in the throttle throat.
If that link gives you problems, try viewing the image directly here: http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/images/tecumseh_series11/_throttle_shutter.JPG
If your carb has these holes, read on.
You must be very careful when cleaning out these tiny holes to not enlarge them, so use a wire that is sufficiently small, then blow out with compressed air. I found it difficult to blow these out with compressed air since the air gun tip cannot really fit inside the carb throat, but for each hole I just determined where the other end of the passage went and blew out the passage from the other side. As the throttle plate is rotated by the governor linkage, the throttle plate gradually moves past each of these holes. I think one of them might be clogged, so you experience issues as the plate is transitioning from wide-open throttle to being somewhat closed.
I'd be interested to hear back if this helps.
Cheers!