I am simply switching my B&S 6.5 HP engine onto a deck with a bigger shoot but i am trying to get it off the old deck without stripping the bolt i have 2 of 3 bolts loosened that connect the engine to the deck but the third is stuck and starting to strip and i dont want to strip it so i am hoping someone has a good idea.
#2
exotion
I have tryed a socket wrench breaker bar my cordless impact gun while soaking it with wd40 trying to let it soak behind the bolt and since you can see the bolt though the engine sticking through i tryed getting some wd40 in the threads im letting it soak for a while but i dont know what else to do please help
An old Aussie farmers "trick" on rusted bolts/threads->
Firstly, exercise caution on the advice below, do not use/or allow the acetone mix near/or to penetrate any seals/gaskets, bearing or nyloc nuts (it will destroy them!!) & the mix must be "fresh" as the acetone evaporates quickly.
For any rusted or seized bolts/threads mixed 50/50 Acetone & oil (ideally auto transmission oil but any oil will work from light machine, compressor, engine oil to the ideal auto transmission oil) - you won't need much just a few drops applied sparingly, leave for day or so & then retry to loosen the bolt if it doesn't work the first time again put a few drops on each day .....etc until it loosens, above all have patience, it will always work after 1 or maybe few more applications !!! (and will avoid the bolt snapping/stripping) - I usualy dip a drinking straw in the 50/50 mix (I make only at max. an ounce or two at a time) then place my thumb on the end on the straw & drip the mix on to the bolt/thread.
It all works very simply as the acetone "eats" the rust/crud then evaporates leaving the oil to penetrate/lubricate the thread (repeated applications allow the mix to work its way into the thread).
Make sure when you replaced the bolt you firstly lubricate the thread with a little oil or grease prior to torquing correctly tp stop it seizing again (Acetone can be purchased usually at any auto or marine store in the paint or fibreglass section)
Impact drivers & air wrenches/rattle guns are great too but they do snap bolts & stress crack hardware if you are not skilled in using them.
If you cannot mix up the "elixir of acetone" at least switch to a "liquid wrench" or "blaster" product available retail. If the head snaps and you can work directly on the bolt shank you can enter the world of home shop mechanics as follows .
Center punch the bolt shank. Select a metal drill smaller than the outside threads of the bolt (hlold it up to the other removed bolts). Drill the broken bolt shank up to the depth of the bolt shank (use the removed bolts to determine depth). Try an "easy out" which should (may) lock into the hole and allow the shell to be turned out.
At "good ole H=Frt" they sell a 3 pak of LEFT HAND DRILLS. The joy here is that some times as you drill in reverse the shell backs right out. If you goof, go up one oversize bolt and tap the new hole.
#5
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Got it off! Realizing there was a spacer between the deck and block i decided to grind the head off the bolt, when I got it off the deck the spacer slid out exposing the bolt combination vice grips and a really big pipe wrench I got it out now i need to go to fasteners and get a new bolt for the new deck.
Im rather new to the lawn tractor game but very well versed in machinery.... doesn't any one HEAT stuck bolts any more? If liquid wrench didnt work (always my first attempt) I went right for the torch....even a propane or MAP torch will do.... just have an extinguisher in case!
This may be overkill but regarding heat vs Aluminum caution is the word. If you have the trick infra red temperature gun you can go slowly with a torch (outer flame ) and keep watching up to 300F without harm. Blind bearings are set this way and I have removed GM strut bolts this way. FYI
I had a similar thing happen except with a deck spindle assembly. All I had to do was drill out the threads of the aluminum spindle and use a bolt, flat washer, lock washer and nut. Problem solved.
Aluminum is dodgy on a good day...:wink::ashamed: The scenarios I've put myself through include tearing the threads out of the aluminum, breaking the fastener off in the aluminum, heating up the aluminum until it flashed and melted,:frown::ashamed: and especially frustrating, not having enough room left over in the casting to insert a heli-coil.:frown: Yes, I've got several worn out "Been there, done that to myself" T-shirts. My classic fixes involve stainless fasteners and marine-grade Never-seize.
#12
exotion
I put anti seize on nearly everything once i get into something beautiful stuff.
and especially frustrating, not having enough room left over in the casting to insert a heli-coil.:frown: Yes, I've got several worn out "Been there, done that to myself" T-shirts. My classic fixes involve stainless fasteners and marine-grade Never-seize.