Stuck transaxle on JD160

[Trout bum]

I am trying to remove the peerless transaxle from my JD160. I have removed all the visible nut and bolts but the transaxle will not budge. When I look into the mowers frame I noticed there are no visible nuts or bolt ends, just a very heavy round wire running to where the nuts should be located. Someone please explain this and what do I need to do to remove the transaxle. Am I fighting rust or galvanic action or what. Thanks jack

 

[StarTech]

Did you remove the two bolts at the front of the transaxle?

 

[Trout bum]

Yes I removed all the nuts and bolts. The problem stems from the threaded U bolt used to hold the transaxle to the mower.

I heated and cooled the aluminum casing covering the bolts and even sprayed with Kroll oil. If it does not come loose over night with a little persuasion wicrow bar and 10 lb hammer inwilll be forced to remove the sides of the frame and cut the u bolt apart andfree up the transaxle.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hello T,

Don't make multiple posting about the same machine.

You are trying to swap a JD160 transaxle with a JD110.

All you are doing is creating confusion and postings clutter.

 

[StarTech]

Yes I removed all the nuts and bolts. The problem stems from the threaded U bolt used to hold the transaxle to the mower.

I heated and cooled the aluminum casing covering the bolts and even sprayed with Kroll oil. If it does not come loose over night with a little persuasion wicrow bar and 10 lb hammer inwilll be forced to remove the sides of the frame and cut the u bolt apart andfree up the transaxle.

Not surprised considering the age of the first 160 series. Yes someone that very good with cutting torch can create miracles. I have to cutoff the Peerless transaxle drive pulleys without damaging the input shaft or seal, just got to know what you are doing.

Let us know how that Kroil works. I have tried many penetrating oil and all have failed me but have yet to try the Kroil one. Getting any into the corrode area is the hard part; otherwords, no penetrating fluid can work if it can't soak thru the solid corrosion or dissolve it.

I have been experimenting here with various things. Some have worked and others have been complete failures just not enough data to tell what works on what. I do have one thing that removes the white corrosion and rust in carburetors but some carbs the results is the corrosion was what held them together at times.

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

Yes I removed all the nuts and bolts. The problem stems from the threaded U bolt used to hold the transaxle to the mower.

I heated and cooled the aluminum casing covering the bolts and even sprayed with Kroll oil. If it does not come loose over night with a little persuasion wicrow bar and 10 lb hammer inwilll be forced to remove the sides of the frame and cut the u bolt apart andfree up the transaxle.

I normally use PB Blaster for penetrating oil and works great. Kroil is supposed to be better, no real personal experience. One other way is 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission oil and acetone. This works well and have used it in the past.

 

[StarTech]

The acetone [100%] mix with Dextron Trans fluid at 50/50 as so far worked best for me. I going to be trying this mix with zerk grease fittings the next time I got one that won't accept grease.

Now I tried a penetrating oil called Free All. Claimed to work on every struck screw and was guarantee to do so. That is BS and they would not honor the guarantee. Also said it dissolve rust yet again more BS. I have better luck with Muriatic Acid if just cleaning steel screws or using some the gun cleaning rust remover otherwise.

 

[Auto Doc's]

I typically use acetone and ATF in a small pressure canister when I'm at the shop. If mobile, I use PB Blaster and WD-40