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Storing a mower with no gas
#1
Mfranch86
Mfranch86
I have a toro mower from about 2013. I stored it without any gas thinking this is better than with gas and a bottle of ethanol added in.
Well, I wound up having a family member give us a Honda mower that was in great condition and worked so over the years I used the Honda instead. The empty toro sat for YEARS.
I recently went to try and use it. Added gas and it won’t start. Since it’s been sitting for probably 10+ yrs here (w/ no gas in it), I’m thinking the carburetor needs to be replaced. will try to do that soon here.
In the meantime, is it not recommended to store a push mower without ANY gas? I was a new home owner at the time and maybe my thinking back then wasn’t correct. Ideally I’m thinking I sure I should have stored it with ethanol treated gas and at least run it a few times a year in the driveway to keep it going
Any suggestions for the future?
Well, I wound up having a family member give us a Honda mower that was in great condition and worked so over the years I used the Honda instead. The empty toro sat for YEARS.
I recently went to try and use it. Added gas and it won’t start. Since it’s been sitting for probably 10+ yrs here (w/ no gas in it), I’m thinking the carburetor needs to be replaced. will try to do that soon here.
In the meantime, is it not recommended to store a push mower without ANY gas? I was a new home owner at the time and maybe my thinking back then wasn’t correct. Ideally I’m thinking I sure I should have stored it with ethanol treated gas and at least run it a few times a year in the driveway to keep it going
Any suggestions for the future?
#2
sgkent
sgkent
yes, spray some berrymans into the carb to see if it starts for a second. Make sure you haven't forgotten an on-off gas valve. Check the oil level. Make sure there is not a second ignition switch like my Kohler engines and one B&S engine have.
#3
A
Auto Doc's
A
Auto Doc's
Can you provide the product label information for the Toro you have. If it is a bagger model, the label will be under a bagger door at the rear. Toro has made thousands of different models over the years.
The engine label or stamped numbers in the valve cover would be a great help also.
The engine label or stamped numbers in the valve cover would be a great help also.
#4
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
You stored it without any gas, but did you run the fuel completely out of the carburetor as you stored it?I have a toro mower from about 2013. I stored it without any gas thinking this is better than with gas and a bottle of ethanol added in.
Well, I wound up having a family member give us a Honda mower that was in great condition and worked so over the years I used the Honda instead. The empty toro sat for YEARS.
I recently went to try and use it. Added gas and it won’t start. Since it’s been sitting for probably 10+ yrs here (w/ no gas in it), I’m thinking the carburetor needs to be replaced. will try to do that soon here.
In the meantime, is it not recommended to store a push mower without ANY gas? I was a new home owner at the time and maybe my thinking back then wasn’t correct. Ideally I’m thinking I sure I should have stored it with ethanol treated gas and at least run it a few times a year in the driveway to keep it going
Any suggestions for the future?
#5
H
Honest Abe
H
Honest Abe
end of season I try to remember to fog all my engines much like a marine engine.....
#6
7394
7394
Even running an engine till it stops from no gas. There is still some left in carb fuel bowl, gotta remove bowl to have it completely emptyYou stored it without any gas, but did you run the fuel completely out of the carburetor as you stored it?
#7
A
Auto Doc's
I find that running a little 2-cycle fuel mix at the end of the cutting season works very well for all of my mowers.
In the spring, I fill them with non-Ethanol fuel, and they fire right up.
The worst fuel to use in any small engine is the cheapest at the station pumps. If non-Ethanol is not in your area, use the mid-grade with a little Star Tron fuel enzyme additive.
I am not a fan of Stabil in recent years because it has failed me and left a sticky goo in the fuel bowl on several mowers. That stuff also makes fuel shutoff solenoids sticky.
A
Auto Doc's
Usually, I prefer not to dry out a carburetor because the Viton tip on the needle and seat get dry and rigid. They have a hard time resealing or have to be replaced.Even running an engine till it stops from no gas. There is still some left in carb fuel bowl, gotta remove bowl to have it completely empty
I find that running a little 2-cycle fuel mix at the end of the cutting season works very well for all of my mowers.
In the spring, I fill them with non-Ethanol fuel, and they fire right up.
The worst fuel to use in any small engine is the cheapest at the station pumps. If non-Ethanol is not in your area, use the mid-grade with a little Star Tron fuel enzyme additive.
I am not a fan of Stabil in recent years because it has failed me and left a sticky goo in the fuel bowl on several mowers. That stuff also makes fuel shutoff solenoids sticky.
#8
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
I run 87 octane, 10% ethanol in everything from a 37 hp Vanguard to a Stihl BG85 blower, and have no problems. Keep the fuel fresh and moving, store the fuel correctly, and it is that simple. Or pay extra for stabilizer and premium fuel for no reason. Small engines are not designed to run 91 plus octane anyway. The great fuel debate continues…Usually, I prefer not to dry out a carburetor because the Viton tip on the needle and seat get dry and rigid. They have a hard time resealing or have to be replaced.
I find that running a little 2-cycle fuel mix at the end of the cutting season works very well for all of my mowers.
In the spring, I fill them with non-Ethanol fuel, and they fire right up.
The worst fuel to use in any small engine is the cheapest at the station pumps. If non-Ethanol is not in your area, use the mid-grade with a little Star Tron fuel enzyme additive.
I am not a fan of Stabil in recent years because it has failed me and left a sticky goo in the fuel bowl on several mowers. That stuff also makes fuel shutoff solenoids sticky.
#9
StarTech
Now all fuels do evap and leave behind the additives which more of the problem than the ethanol; although, ethanol does have the habit of sucking moisture out of the air. Just last month I had a two cycle with harden diaphragms that the operator only use the Tru Fuel in it so that throws out the door the idea that ethanol caused the problem. Component aging was the culprit.
Plus most 4 cycle carbs are all vented to the atmosphere so fuel evaps over time easily. All carbs will need repairs over time. It is just the nature of the beast.
My old '67 Mopar 440 Hi performance engine has been running the ethanol for years without problems other than it is about worn out. My current PU V6 has over 350K on the engine. So far the only major problem with the PU was a major transmission failure at 320K and I don't think that was ethanol related, just the root cause was thrust bearing failure which destroy the whole insides.
The real fuel problem introduce by the use of ethanol fuel here was when I ran the mid grade fuel in my '79 Malibu. It a pink chalk like additive by the fuel suppliers. It would clogged the paper filter in the Holley on a regular basis. It did it so much I kept the tools and filters in my trunk at all times as I never knew when fuel filter would clog up. Switched back to the low grade fuel and the problem went away.
StarTech
It is call Red Death for a reason.I am not a fan of Stabil in recent years because it has failed me and left a sticky goo in the fuel bowl on several mowers. That stuff also makes fuel shutoff solenoids sticky.
Properly stored fuel is one key to the lack of problems. I just cranked up my Poulan chainsaw recently after it sat for over two years with fuel in it. The only problem was the plastic lever on the outside of the carb failed. It crank up up on the first pull but power as the air was not opening. New carb with improved metal link fixes plastic problem.I run 87 octane, 10% ethanol in everything from a 37 hp Vanguard to a Stihl BG85 blower, and have no problems. Keep the fuel fresh and moving, store the fuel correctly, and it is that simple. Or pay extra for stabilizer and premium fuel for no reason. Small engines are not designed to run 91 plus octane anyway. The great fuel debate continues…
Now all fuels do evap and leave behind the additives which more of the problem than the ethanol; although, ethanol does have the habit of sucking moisture out of the air. Just last month I had a two cycle with harden diaphragms that the operator only use the Tru Fuel in it so that throws out the door the idea that ethanol caused the problem. Component aging was the culprit.
Plus most 4 cycle carbs are all vented to the atmosphere so fuel evaps over time easily. All carbs will need repairs over time. It is just the nature of the beast.
My old '67 Mopar 440 Hi performance engine has been running the ethanol for years without problems other than it is about worn out. My current PU V6 has over 350K on the engine. So far the only major problem with the PU was a major transmission failure at 320K and I don't think that was ethanol related, just the root cause was thrust bearing failure which destroy the whole insides.
The real fuel problem introduce by the use of ethanol fuel here was when I ran the mid grade fuel in my '79 Malibu. It a pink chalk like additive by the fuel suppliers. It would clogged the paper filter in the Holley on a regular basis. It did it so much I kept the tools and filters in my trunk at all times as I never knew when fuel filter would clog up. Switched back to the low grade fuel and the problem went away.
#10
F
Forest#2
I do the same.
F
Forest#2
I find that running a little 2-cycle fuel mix at the end of the cutting season works very well for all of my mowers.Usually, I prefer not to dry out a carburetor because the Viton tip on the needle and seat get dry and rigid. They have a hard time resealing or have to be replaced.
I find that running a little 2-cycle fuel mix at the end of the cutting season works very well for all of my mowers.
In the spring, I fill them with non-Ethanol fuel, and they fire right up.
The worst fuel to use in any small engine is the cheapest at the station pumps. If non-Ethanol is not in your area, use the mid-grade with a little Star Tron fuel enzyme additive.
I am not a fan of Stabil in recent years because it has failed me and left a sticky goo in the fuel bowl on several mowers. That stuff also makes fuel shutoff solenoids sticky.
I do the same.
#11
G
GearHead36
G
GearHead36
I have a Champion generator, which, of course, doesn't get used that often. The manual has 3 storage procedures. One for short term (up to 30 days), one for mid term (30 days to 1 yr), and one for long term (more than 1 yr). I always use the long term procedure. I say "always", but so far, that's only been two times. I bought it for hurricane Helene, so it's less than a year old. The long term procedure is:
- Open fuel valve
- Unscrew fuel drain screw on carb. This will empty the contents of the fuel tank and carb bowl through a tube out the bottom of the generator.
- Remove spark plug
- Put 1 tbsp of oil in cylinder
- Slowly pull the starter rope one time.
- Reinstall spark plug
- Screw fuel drain screw back in.
I did this after Helene, then needed it again 9 months later. I put fresh ethanol-free fuel in it, and it fired right up just like it did when new. The manual doesn't say to run it until it dies, but that wound up happening both times I've done the storage procedure. I usually run the generator until it runs out of gas, then check to see if the power has been restored. I don't know if running it until it dies makes a difference. Admittedly, it only sit for 9 months, but Champion claims that this procedure, which doesn't include putting anything in the carb, is good for long term storage. Champion also recommends ethanol-free fuel.
- Open fuel valve
- Unscrew fuel drain screw on carb. This will empty the contents of the fuel tank and carb bowl through a tube out the bottom of the generator.
- Remove spark plug
- Put 1 tbsp of oil in cylinder
- Slowly pull the starter rope one time.
- Reinstall spark plug
- Screw fuel drain screw back in.
I did this after Helene, then needed it again 9 months later. I put fresh ethanol-free fuel in it, and it fired right up just like it did when new. The manual doesn't say to run it until it dies, but that wound up happening both times I've done the storage procedure. I usually run the generator until it runs out of gas, then check to see if the power has been restored. I don't know if running it until it dies makes a difference. Admittedly, it only sit for 9 months, but Champion claims that this procedure, which doesn't include putting anything in the carb, is good for long term storage. Champion also recommends ethanol-free fuel.
#12
A
Auto Doc's
A
Auto Doc's
The best part of that advice is to use Ethanol free fuel every time. It does not breakdown rapidly like Ethanol blend fuel.I have a Champion generator, which, of course, doesn't get used that often. The manual has 3 storage procedures. One for short term (up to 30 days), one for mid term (30 days to 1 yr), and one for long term (more than 1 yr). I always use the long term procedure. I say "always", but so far, that's only been two times. I bought it for hurricane Helene, so it's less than a year old. The long term procedure is:
- Open fuel valve
- Unscrew fuel drain screw on carb. This will empty the contents of the fuel tank and carb bowl through a tube out the bottom of the generator.
- Remove spark plug
- Put 1 tbsp of oil in cylinder
- Slowly pull the starter rope one time.
- Reinstall spark plug
- Screw fuel drain screw back in.
I did this after Helene, then needed it again 9 months later. I put fresh ethanol-free fuel in it, and it fired right up just like it did when new. The manual doesn't say to run it until it dies, but that wound up happening both times I've done the storage procedure. I usually run the generator until it runs out of gas, then check to see if the power has been restored. I don't know if running it until it dies makes a difference. Admittedly, it only sit for 9 months, but Champion claims that this procedure, which doesn't include putting anything in the carb, is good for long term storage. Champion also recommends ethanol-free fuel.
#13
D
dana a
D
dana a
Same here, that's all I use too. When I'm done for the season I start it up and close off the fuel line and when it starts to run out of gas I close the choke and that draws even more gas out of the bowl. I have never had a problem starting any of my stuff in the spring.I run 87 octane, 10% ethanol in everything from a 37 hp Vanguard to a Stihl BG85 blower, and have no problems. Keep the fuel fresh and moving, store the fuel correctly, and it is that simple. Or pay extra for stabilizer and premium fuel for no reason. Small engines are not designed to run 91 plus octane anyway. The great fuel debate continues…