Export thread

Hello I have an lt2000 19.5 horsepower hp Craftsman.

The mower deck is a 42-in cutting with deck.

For more than a month I've had the deck separated from the frame of the mower.

I have replaced both spindles I have replaced the large idler pulley, I have replaced the small idler pulley.

I have replaced the belt it may not be the original belt but it's a Kevlar belt and it's 100.25 in Long.

It is a deep v belt and I'm replacing what I put on last year with a brand new one, I don't recall this ringing noise problem last year.

So I just ran the machine with the mower deck engaged there's hardly anything to cut because everything's so dry so any stress put on the mower deck or the engine is 99%. Whatever this problem is with this ringing noise.

I ran the machine for about 5 minutes essentially cutting nothing because everything is brown but one thing I was asked to do was after I shut the machine down to see what the temperature is of the belt now I could have used a thermal gun but I use my finger and I can comfortably keep my finger on the belt for say 20 seconds and then I have to take it off because it's just getting too hot so if I need to get an exact temperature using a thermal gun I can do that.

But the problem is this ringing noise and to identify whether or not is coming from the mower deck some component on the mower deck so when I'm not engaging the blade there is no ringing noise.

When I engage the blade the ringing noise begins. I'm assuming the problem is the mower deck but I could be wrong.

This last time that I slid the mower deck back underneath the chassis I noticed that the front rod would not connect to the front of the mower deck so I had to loosen the setting on it it's as if the mower deck took up a new position say a half inch to an inch towards the rear tires I don't know how this could happen but I adjusted that front rod so that I could slip it through the front of the mower deck.

Maybe I needed to lift the front of the mower deck up a bit and it would have connected just fine but I adjusted it so the front rod is a little bit longer now effectively.

I hope to post videos of the lt2000 Craftsman running without the mower deck engaged and then when I engage it and then get videos of both sides of the mower deck but the belt is scored it's roughed up it's got a black band around the outside. And I've read everything about what that means but I can't seem to fix it.

Model # 917289070 Official Craftsman tractor

I can live with this ringing noise as long as the ringing noise isn't contributing to the burnt belt and I did notice that this 100.25 in belt might be slightly long however last summer it did work I bought three belts that were too short and this 100.25 in belt did work so I went with that as the length of belt I need maybe because there is some slack I need say a 99 in belt or a '99.5 in belt but if you go by the recommendations from Craftsman and going back to last Summer I believe you end up with a belt that is way too short so that's why I'm guessing on the belt.

Jim

JimP2014 said:

Hello I have an lt2000 19.5 horsepower hp Craftsman.

The mower deck is a 42-in cutting with deck.

For more than a month I've had the deck separated from the frame of the mower.

I have replaced both spindles I have replaced the large idler pulley, I have replaced the small idler pulley.

I have replaced the belt it may not be the original belt but it's a Kevlar belt and it's 100.25 in Long.

It is a deep v belt and I'm replacing what I put on last year with a brand new one, I don't recall this ringing noise problem last year.

So I just ran the machine with the mower deck engaged there's hardly anything to cut because everything's so dry so any stress put on the mower deck or the engine is 99%. Whatever this problem is with this ringing noise.

I ran the machine for about 5 minutes essentially cutting nothing because everything is brown but one thing I was asked to do was after I shut the machine down to see what the temperature is of the belt now I could have used a thermal gun but I use my finger and I can comfortably keep my finger on the belt for say 20 seconds and then I have to take it off because it's just getting too hot so if I need to get an exact temperature using a thermal gun I can do that.

But the problem is this ringing noise and to identify whether or not is coming from the mower deck some component on the mower deck so when I'm not engaging the blade there is no ringing noise.

When I engage the blade the ringing noise begins. I'm assuming the problem is the mower deck but I could be wrong.

This last time that I slid the mower deck back underneath the chassis I noticed that the front rod would not connect to the front of the mower deck so I had to loosen the setting on it it's as if the mower deck took up a new position say a half inch to an inch towards the rear tires I don't know how this could happen but I adjusted that front rod so that I could slip it through the front of the mower deck.

Maybe I needed to lift the front of the mower deck up a bit and it would have connected just fine but I adjusted it so the front rod is a little bit longer now effectively.

I hope to post videos of the lt2000 Craftsman running without the mower deck engaged and then when I engage it and then get videos of both sides of the mower deck but the belt is scored it's roughed up it's got a black band around the outside. And I've read everything about what that means but I can't seem to fix it.

Model # 917289070 Official Craftsman tractor

I can live with this ringing noise as long as the ringing noise isn't contributing to the burnt belt and I did notice that this 100.25 in belt might be slightly long however last summer it did work I bought three belts that were too short and this 100.25 in belt did work so I went with that as the length of belt I need maybe because there is some slack I need say a 99 in belt or a '99.5 in belt but if you go by the recommendations from Craftsman and going back to last Summer I believe you end up with a belt that is way too short so that's why I'm guessing on the belt.

Jim

Click to expand...

One thing I failed to mention here is the larger idler pulley from way back when I'm sure it's still good but in any case I replace the large idler pulley + I thought there was a problem with it because there was a wobble before I replaced it so I replaced it with a brand new large idler pulley and I got the wobble to go away well after spinning the blades for say 10 minutes few days ago that wobble is back maybe that wobble is supposed to be there I have no idea but I just thought I'd mention it additionally.

Jim

This is a video of the left side of the mower deck + the large pulley and one of the spindles can be seen in the foreground but the thing to notice is the constant ringing noise the video starts with the blades engaged but about 3/4 of way through I turn the blades off and the ring noise goes away and then I engage the blades again and the ringing noises back so this is other than the belt needing to be replaced I just have a feeling with a brand new belt I'm still going to have the ringing noise so I'm hoping to address the ringing noise soon.

Thanks,
Jim

In the video I see two things I don’t like. One, the large idler pulley is at an angle. The idler tensioner arm may be bent. Second, when disengaging the PTO, both idler pulleys wobble, indicating to me that either pulley bearings are bad or the studs are worn. Either of these can cause the harmonic ringing you are hearing.

Rivets said:

In the video I see two things I don’t like. One, the large idler pulley is at an angle. The idler tensioner arm may be bent. Second, when disengaging the PTO, both idler pulleys wobble, indicating to me that either pulley bearings are bad or the studs are worn. Either of these can cause the harmonic ringing you are hearing.

Click to expand...

Rivets regarding that large idler pulley so it was wobbling like say for years or maybe it was wobbling since last year I don't know but in any case I just put a brand large idler pulley on and I noticed that it's wobbling so then I tightened it down so tight and then it wasn't wobbling anymore and then I ran the machine with a blades engage for maybe 10-15 minutes and I came back the next day and I noticed that large idler pulley is wobbling again like how can that be so it's a brand new large idler pulley I don't know if that bolt it looks like a carriage bolt is the brand new one from the box where I use the existing one but I did have that large idler pulleys so it would only rotate in One direction without the wobble. Thanks for your reply what are your thoughts on this one?

Jim

JimP2014 said:

Rivets regarding that large idler pulley so it was wobbling like say for years or maybe it was wobbling since last year I don't know but in any case I just put a brand large idler pulley on and I noticed that it's wobbling so then I tightened it down so tight and then it wasn't wobbling anymore and then I ran the machine with a blades engage for maybe 10-15 minutes and I came back the next day and I noticed that large idler pulley is wobbling again like how can that be so it's a brand new large idler pulley I don't know if that bolt it looks like a carriage bolt is the brand new one from the box where I use the existing one but I did have that large idler pulleys so it would only rotate in One direction without the wobble. Thanks for your reply what are your thoughts on this one?

Jim

Click to expand...

The other thing is regarding that wobbling of that large idler pulley in some other video I don't know which one a guy was talking about how it pivots he was calling it a pivot + I don't know either way what do you think about the possibility what I'm calling a wobble is actually a design feature?

After watching the video again and looking at the parts diagram I’ve got more questions than suggestions. When you replaced parts, did you use OEM parts?
Small pulley Husqvarna part number 532177968
Large pulley Husqvarna part number 532197379
Belt Husqvarna part number 592855001
According to the web site I used none of these parts are available. How did you cross reference them?
Did you check that the carriage bolts were the right size and the pulleys did not wobble on the bolt before assembly? If your pulleys started to wobble after you mounted them securely, something is wrong in the assembly. It should not come loose. Did you use Nyloc nuts?

Rivets said:

After watching the video again and looking at the parts diagram I’ve got more questions than suggestions. When you replaced parts, did you use OEM parts?
Small pulley Husqvarna part number 532177968
Large pulley Husqvarna part number 532197379
Belt Husqvarna part number 592855001
According to the web site I used none of these parts are available. How did you cross reference them?
Did you check that the carriage bolts were the right size and the pulleys did not wobble on the bolt before assembly? If your pulleys started to wobble after you mounted them securely, something is wrong in the assembly. It should not come loose. Did you use Nyloc nuts?

Click to expand...

Rivets said:

After watching the video again and looking at the parts diagram I’ve got more questions than suggestions. When you replaced parts, did you use OEM parts?
Small pulley Husqvarna part number 532177968
Large pulley Husqvarna part number 532197379
Belt Husqvarna part number 592855001
According to the web site I used none of these parts are available. How did you cross reference them?
Did you check that the carriage bolts were the right size and the pulleys did not wobble on the bolt before assembly? If your pulleys started to wobble after you mounted them securely, something is wrong in the assembly. It should not come loose. Did you use Nyloc nuts?

Click to expand...

Brand: POSFLAG
4.54.5 out of 5 stars(62)

532196106 Husqvarna Idler Pulley with 532177968 Idler Pulley Replaces 532197379 Husqvarna Idler Pulley, 196106 Idler Pulley Craftsman, 197379 177968 193197 for Husqvarna Z254 YTH20K46 Mowers​

I tried to send you an image right here but my phone isn't that good for that maybe I can send it on my PC later but it's basically this what you see above and it was from Amazon when you say how did I cross-reference it I'm not exactly sure what I did maybe I went to look up an Amazon part and then see what numbers from the Sears catalog matched up and then I use that number I honestly don't know but I wanted to make sure I believe I did the right thing for the idler pieces two of them.

And for the belt so last year I bought a belt it wasn't the actual one you're probably indicating so maybe it's just the belt I should get the correct belt for it it's a Husqvarna belt.

All's I can say is I used it for at least 6 months back in 2024 meaning the first purchase of it and the second purchase of it which was say a month ago that's not working out it's all burnt as you can see in the video possibly.

Jim

JimP2014 said:

Brand: POSFLAG
4.54.5 out of 5 stars(62)

532196106 Husqvarna Idler Pulley with 532177968 Idler Pulley Replaces 532197379 Husqvarna Idler Pulley, 196106 Idler Pulley Craftsman, 197379 177968 193197 for Husqvarna Z254 YTH20K46 Mowers​

I tried to send you an image right here but my phone isn't that good for that maybe I can send it on my PC later but it's basically this what you see above and it was from Amazon when you say how did I cross-reference it I'm not exactly sure what I did maybe I went to look up an Amazon part and then see what numbers from the Sears catalog matched up and then I use that number I honestly don't know but I wanted to make sure I believe I did the right thing for the idler pieces two of them.

And for the belt so last year I bought a belt it wasn't the actual one you're probably indicating so maybe it's just the belt I should get the correct belt for it it's a Husqvarna belt.

All's I can say is I used it for at least 6 months back in 2024 meaning the first purchase of it and the second purchase of it which was say a month ago that's not working out it's all burnt as you can see in the video possibly.

Jim

Click to expand...

Okay it took me awhile to figure out what you're suggesting I should have done is exactly what I did as far as the idler pulleys go the belt it's not the same belt that's for sure so if you're thinking maybe I should just replace the belt for the exact item I need then I could do that and hopefully that makes that ringing noise going away. I will get on that early this coming week for sure.

Thanks,
Jim

JimP2014 said:

Okay it took me awhile to figure out what you're suggesting I should have done is exactly what I did as far as the idler pulleys go the belt it's not the same belt that's for sure so if you're thinking maybe I should just replace the belt for the exact item I need then I could do that and hopefully that makes that ringing noise going away. I will get on that early this coming week for sure.

Thanks,
Jim

Click to expand...

One more thing when I examine The belt belt which is made by Husqvarna I'm going to see what the exact dimensions are especially the length it has to be at least 99 in I think the ones that I had that were 98 in didn't work at all.

Jim

592855001

I found this on Amazon it's a Husqvarna belt the one I'm looking at is like $28.79 or something like that I'm going to buy that one and if it doesn't work the ringing noise refuses to go away I'll just cut the damn lawn the way it is

Jim

I’m NOT saying go purchase more parts with out doing more investigation. It would be much easier if I was standing next to see what you’re seeing. That being the case, this is what I would do.
1. Remove the deck.
2. One at a time remove each pulley and carriage bolt and check that there is no slop between bolt and pulley bearing. Were the pulleys you purchased OEM?
3. Verify that there is square hole the bolt goes through has no slop and the bolt fits snugly. You are using carriage bolts and Nyloc nuts?
4. Check the tensioner making sure that there is no slop in the pivot point. The arm should not move up/down.
5. Check the bracket where the stationary idler pulley mounts, that it is not worn or bent. There has to be a reason for the angle I see.
6. I’m looking for evidence that someone else has been working on this deck.
7. I’ve never trustEd any parts purchased through AmoScam or FleaBay, more crap than quality.
8. Sorry, but I’m at a loss as to what other causes there may be, so I’m getting out of this thread. Wishing you Good Luck.

Rivets said:

I’m NOT saying go purchase more parts with out doing more investigation. It would be much easier if I was standing next to see what you’re seeing. That being the case, this is what I would do.
1. Remove the deck.
2. One at a time remove each pulley and carriage bolt and check that there is no slop between bolt and pulley bearing. Were the pulleys you purchased OEM?
3. Verify that there is square hole the bolt goes through has no slop and the bolt fits snugly. You are using carriage bolts and Nyloc nuts?
4. Check the tensioner making sure that there is no slop in the pivot point. The arm should not move up/down.
5. Check the bracket where the stationary idler pulley mounts, that it is not worn or bent. There has to be a reason for the angle I see.
6. I’m looking for evidence that someone else has been working on this deck.
7. I’ve never trustEd any parts purchased through AmoScam or FleaBay, more crap than quality.
8. Sorry, but I’m at a loss as to what other causes there may be, so I’m getting out of this thread. Wishing you Good Luck.

Click to expand...

No worries especially regarding the belt. I do need another belt so I will buy the:

Husqvarna 592855001 Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 1/2 x 100-1/2-in (Replaces 197253) Genuine Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Part​

$28.37

This I need to do. And thanks for your step by step instructions. I can refer to it as I go along.
Jim

JimP2014 said:

This is a video of the left side of the mower deck + the large pulley and one of the spindles can be seen in the foreground but the thing to notice is the constant ringing noise the video starts with the blades engaged but about 3/4 of way through I turn the blades off and the ring noise goes away and then I engage the blades again and the ringing noises back so this is other than the belt needing to be replaced I just have a feeling with a brand new belt I'm still going to have the ringing noise so I'm hoping to address the ringing noise soon.

Thanks,
Jim

Click to expand...

The black flat side pulley (shown closest to the side from where of the video was taken) is moving around way too much and appears cocked forward. They don't typically set on a level datum line with the spindle pullies, but this one seems extreme. Idlers commonly have some pitch, and that allows for the changing deck heights.

Where the idler pullies matched and put back in the same location according to their diameter? Look at the following owner's manual I was able to pull up:


An initial belt chirp during engagement is not uncommon, but continuous noise is not common. All you should hear is the whirring of the blades

Auto Doc's said:

The black flat side pulley (shown closest to the side from where of the video was taken) is moving around way too much and appears cocked forward. They don't typically set on a level datum line with the spindle pullies, but this one seems extreme. Idlers commonly have some pitch, and that allows for the changing deck heights.

Where the idler pullies matched and put back in the same location according to their diameter? Look at the following owner's manual I was able to pull up:

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/tp54wws1wt-000247/craftsman-917289070-front-engine-lawn-tractor-parts

An initial belt chirp during engagement is not uncommon, but continuous noise is not common. All you should hear is the whirring of the blades

Click to expand...

Hi Auto docs the idler pulley the large one especially is exactly the same as the one I took off there was probably no reason to take the other one off but I can tell you that for a very long time there was that wobble in the large idler pulley in fact when I used all the new hardware for the large idler pulley except I'm not positive about the The bolt I may have used the one that was already there but I don't think so I'll have to check again but what happened was I tightened everything down and so I I grabbed that large idler pulley and I'm wobbling it back and forth just like the other one so then I tighten that nut down as tight as I could get it and at that point there was no wobble at all I then ran the machine I come back a day later and that pulley is back to wobbling now I read someplace or actually I'm sorry I saw a video where a guy is saying that's the feature and I don't know which video it was but he was saying that wobble he called the day pivot he called it a pivot it's part of the design to compensate for various deck heights so I've been asking the question if that wobble when in a completely standing still situation is normal but like I said I did have it tightened down so tight the only thing I could think is that I needed to put a lock washer underneath the nut even though there's a flat washer like I don't get why the whole thing just started wobbling again.

Jim

My LT1000 42" is from 2005 so quite different than yours. But I'll say that I wear ear protection radio headphones to protect my ears while mowing, so I wouldn't notice any such ringing anyway.

Cusser said:

My LT1000 42" is from 2005 so quite different than yours. But I'll say that I wear ear protection radio headphones to protect my ears while mowing, so I wouldn't notice any such ringing anyway.

Click to expand...

Mine might be that old I have no idea it was pretty much gifted to me as junk and then I brought it back to life. And that was say more than 10 years ago so I have no idea how old it is.
Jim

I bought a belt here locally this am, and it was marked 100" x 5/8". The "red belt" which is on the machine ( and destroyed ) right now is 100.25" x 1/2" and way too big.

So I tried to replace this new belt in place of the red belt and it looks great on a spindle it fits perfectly so the spindles pulley height must be 5/8" tall. But when going to the other side of the machine and trying to finish wrapping it, I could not. The new belt it is too short. Either unbelievable or predictable?

The only thing I can think of that might work is to remove the small idler pulley ( side with the chute ) and somehow wrap it around the pulley and hope that the bolt when moving the whole thing back, that bolt can get "on center" to the hole in the mower deck frame. I have not done this yet. Is this the way you would normally put on a mower deck belt? Meaning you have to keep the small idler pulley off, wrap the belt around the small idler pulley and then move it to where it needs to mount?

If this does work then my first thought is the blades will always be in a run state, because everything is so tight. The 5/8" fits perfectly to the spindles pulley although. I have no clue how to proceed next?

Jim
Sent from PC, hopefully no typos.

Rivets said:

In the video I see two things I don’t like. One, the large idler pulley is at an angle. The idler tensioner arm may be bent. Second, when disengaging the PTO, both idler pulleys wobble, indicating to me that either pulley bearings are bad or the studs are worn. Either of these can cause the harmonic ringing you are hearing.

Click to expand...

You were typing at same time as me in your post 20

For one: (in the video) as to what Rivets noticed also
the belt is riding too high on that idler pulley in the video. The top edge of the idler is damaging/chewing the back side of the belt. (belt is getting too high on the idler)
Sometimes people do not pay attention to spacers on the very bottom/underneath of idler pulleys and when they put them back w/o the spacer the idler sets too low. (and the carriage bolt nut may not even allow the bolt to become tight and the whole thing wobbles even though the nut is tight. I've seen spacers collars or spacers washers stick to the bottom of a idler and fall off on floor or the idler get turned upside down with the spacer on top, but usually falls off on floor un-noticed. Also the spacers are usually not shown in a parts diagram.

I see you mention that you really have to tighten the carriage bolt nut to keep the pulley from wobbling. this might indicate you need to add spacer such as washers under the idler pulley so as to space it up and this would also allow the carriage bolt nut to become secure.(I see quite a few threads on top of the carriage bolt in the video. Also some idler pulleys have a offset spacer built into the center hole and if pulley mounted upside down they will not align properly.
Anyway that idler is running too low on the belt due to maybe as rivets says the bracket is bent ot not secure. If that is a swivel spring loaded bracket sometime due to wear they require shims or replacement parts.

Anyway that area is really suspect needs attention.

Forest#2 said:

For one:
the belt is riding too high on that idler pulley in the video. The top edge of the idler is damaging the back side of the belt.
Sometimes people do not pay attention to spacers on the very bottom/underneath of idler pulleys and when they put them back w/o the spacer the idler sets too low. (and the carriage bolt nut may not even allow the bolt to become tight and the whole thing wobbles even though the nut is tight. I've seen spacers collars or spacers washers stick to the bottom of a idler and fall off on floor or the idler get turned upside down with the spacer on top, but usually falls off on floor un-noticed. Also the spacers are usually not shown in a parts diagram.

I see you mention that you really have to tighten the carriage bolt nuts to keep the pulley from wobbling. this might indicate you need to add spacer such as washers under the idler pulley so as to space it up and this would also allow the carriage bolt nut to become secure.(I see quite a few threads on top of the carriage bolt in the video.
Anyway that idler is running too low on the belt due to maybe as rivets says the bracket is bent ot not secure. If that is a swivel spring loaded bracket sometime due to wear they require shims or replacement parts.

Anyway that area is really suspect needs attention.

Click to expand...

Forest I posted some other images (2) I bought a brand new belt. I thought I started a new thread but here it is:

Basically it is a 5/8" x 100" kevlar belt and it is too short. So I just tried to remove the small idler pulley and put the belt around it THEN push the whole thing to where that square whole is on the frame. I could not get it to move that far into position. So I am thinking the 5/8" which fits the spindles pulley perfectly has caused the entire belt to shorten up. I have 2 images on here. I will post them here again.

This is where it is say an hour ago. If the 5/8" rather than the 1/2" belt is the way to go then I don't mind buying another 5/8" belt but say 101" or 102" long. I don't know this # right know.

I see what your saying about washers BELOW the large idler pulley. The kit comes with only one washer and that goes on top. I actually had 2 or 3 washers on each idler pulley up until say 2 months ago. I figured this was a hack that I did say last year and I got rid of them not know the consequences. NO Sears parts diagram calls for washers on top of the mower deck frame and then the idler guide and then the large idler pulley then the "brand new washer" then the locking nut. Or maybe it is get the belt guide on top of the frame first. And then the customer supplied washers.

Jim

JimP2014 said:

Forest I posted some other images (2) I bought a brand new belt. I thought I started a new thread but here it is:

Still trying to get the mower deck right

Okay it took me awhile to figure out what you're suggesting I should have done is exactly what I did as far as the idler pulleys go the belt it's not the same belt that's for sure so if you're thinking maybe I should just replace the belt for the exact item I need then I could do that and...

www.lawnmowerforum.com

Basically it is a 5/8" x 100" kevlar belt and it is too short. So I just tried to remove the small idler pulley and put the belt around it THEN push the whole thing to where that square whole is on the frame. I could not get it to move that far into position. So I am thinking the 5/8" which fits the spindles pulley perfectly has caused the entire belt to shorten up. I have 2 images on here. I will post them here again.

This is where it is say an hour ago. If the 5/8" rather than the 1/2" belt is the way to go then I don't mind buying another 5/8" belt but say 101" or 102" long. I don't know this # right know.

I see what your saying about washers BELOW the large idler pulley. The kit comes with only one washer and that goes on top. I actually had 2 or 3 washers on each idler pulley up until say 2 months ago. I figured this was a hack that I did say last year and I got rid of them not know the consequences. NO Sears parts diagram calls for washers on top of the mower deck frame and then the idler guide and then the large idler pulley then the "brand new washer" then the locking nut. Or maybe it is get the belt guide on top of the frame first. And then the customer supplied washers.

Jim

Click to expand...

Forest for the best belt to use.
1.Stay with the 1/2" belt, jst get a new one since the red kevlar is shreded but check all others things to.

2. Go with the 5/8" belt it fits perfect, it is just a little short. Get a longer length!

Please reply 1 or 2, I am getting confused here.

Thanks,
Jim

JimP2014 said:

Forest for the best belt to use.
1.Stay with the 1/2" belt, jst get a new one since the red kevlar is shreded but check all others things to.

2. Go with the 5/8" belt it fits perfect, it is just a little short. Get a longer length!

Please reply 1 or 2, I am getting confused here.

Thanks,
Jim

Click to expand...

Here is what Sears says as of right now;

Husqvarna Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 1/2 x 100-1/2-in 592855001​

There is no way in hell that is correct, they might mean

Husqvarna Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 5/8 x 100-1/2-in or maybe even Husqvarna Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 5/8 x 101-1/2-in​

I have a 1/2" x 100.25 belt, and it is way to long.

JimP2014 said:

Here is what Sears says as of right now;

Husqvarna Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 1/2 x 100-1/2-in 592855001​

There is no way in hell that is correct, they might mean

Husqvarna Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 5/8 x 100-1/2-in or maybe even Husqvarna Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 5/8 x 101-1/2-in​

I have a 1/2" x 100.25 belt, and it is way to long.

Click to expand...

Okay so for the current belt which is 5/8 in wide by 100 in Long I pressed my finger onto the belt right where the small idler pulley would Mount and I can tell you I was able to press the bolt the belt rather directly over the center point of that square notch that's cut into the mower deck itself so this 5/8 in belt is 100 in long according to the manufacturer so I'm wondering if the correct length is 102 in 103 in I don't know but I also believe that for any spindle the height of the v-groove which is metal should fit the belt perfectly in other words the half inch belt I've been using it kind of swims inside of that pulley whereas the 5/8 in belt fits that pulley groove perfectly so that's an assumption on my part I don't know what the engineers did who designed any of the stuff but the other thing is you should be able to take any engineer who built this freaking mower deck and have them look at the situation and have him say this is how long the belt should be this is how thick the belt should be in all that stuff

Jim

also make sure the brakes are not so worn that they allow the pulley to loosen the belt.

sgkent said:

also make sure the brakes are not so worn that they allow the pulley to loosen the belt.

Click to expand...

Sk kent,

Everything on this mower deck is new except the mower deck itself.

Jim

JimP2014 said:

View attachment 71569

Click to expand...

I bought this in 2024 and these are the dimensions the manufacturer states I bought the same exact one again in July

JimP2014 said:

I bought this in 2024 and these are the dimensions the manufacturer states I bought the same exact one again in July

Click to expand...

And basically in 2024 it was a little big so I don't know how Sears it's saying get a bigger one and half inch wide

I took 2 photos using the newest 5/8" x 100" kevlar belt I bought locally.

1.) I am pressing my finger and getting the belt taught and then showing how ( and with no blades engaged ) where it lines up with the midpoint of the smaller idler pulley.

2.) Using a spare small idler pulley, it seems the actual radius is 2" but the belt makes contact at the 1 3/4" point.

a)So an appropriate min. belt length might be 100+ 1 3/4 = 101&3/4" <----- this would fit but be very taught I am guessing, not the best.

b) And for maximum I would say 100" ( this is the belt right now ) + say 2 1/2" = 102&1/2" <--- don't know if this would be too loose?

So some dimension between 101&3/4" AND 102&1/2" seems correct.

So I took the suggestion of Forest and I added some washers and those washers went underneath the small idler pulley and also the large idler pulley it's maybe tough to tell from this photo but it seems like the small idler pulley is tilted away from the plane of the other three pulleys and I think possibly the arm that the small idler pulley is attached to could possibly be bent up.

So the last step would be to put the old belt on that's slightly shredded but the whole point would be to see if the constant ringing noise.

So the way it's mounted is frame then the belt guides on top of the belt guides go the washers and then the idler pulleys and then the washer on top of the either pulleys and then the nut, and the bolt going up through frame one thing I have done which is well it works for me is I got a piece of gray foam maybe 2 in by 2 in and I jam it up underneath the between the frame and the bottom of those carriage bolts and it forces those carriage bolts into that square pattern and it really does a good job you don't need to clamp that bolt somehow and then when you're done just take the gray foam away.

Jim

Ronnie Milsap can see that idler is not correct.

You might have to remove the deck and take the bracket off for a complete inspection. There may be a SHOULDER washer under the bracket that allows it to spring loaded swivel and a matching thru bolt with a nut under the deck. That bracket that the idler mounts to should have very little up and down play also. Make sure that the deck is not cracked around the shoulder washer area. The bolt that holds that bracket to the deck needs to be checked to see if it's tight/bent or ???

Anyway that area is of interest as the Police inspectors say.

Forest#2 said:

Ronnie Milsap can see that idler is not correct.

You might have to remove the deck and take the bracket off for a complete inspection. There may be a SHOULDER washer under the bracket that allows it to spring loaded swivel and a matching thru bolt with a nut under the deck. That bracket that the idler mounts to should have very little up and down play also. Make sure that the deck is not cracked around the shoulder washer area. The bolt that holds that bracket to the deck needs to be checked to see if it's tight/bent or ???

Anyway that area is of interest as the Police inspectors say.

Click to expand...

You know I forgot to mention and thanks for reply on this Forest so when I grab that small icer pulley I could move it towards the sky and move it back towards the ground and it wasn't a lot of movement but I didn't think that was right and I forgot to even ask the question but that's what happened so yeah I hear what you're saying about figuring out what's going on with that so the mower deck was already in place so the only thing I did was tighten down that not but it didn't really do much so I was thinking running the blades because it only takes a minute or two to put that old belt back on the one that's a half inch wide by 100.25 in Long just to see if I can get rid of that constant ringing noise and then separate the mower deck away from the frame and then do what you're saying to do.

I mean I just want to run the blades for maybe even 30 seconds just to see if I'm doing anything productive.

Jim

JimP2014 said:

You know I forgot to mention and thanks for reply on this Forest so when I grab that small icer pulley I could move it towards the sky and move it back towards the ground and it wasn't a lot of movement but I didn't think that was right and I forgot to even ask the question but that's what happened so yeah I hear what you're saying about figuring out what's going on with that so the mower deck was already in place so the only thing I did was tighten down that not but it didn't really do much so I was thinking running the blades because it only takes a minute or two to put that old belt back on the one that's a half inch wide by 100.25 in Long just to see if I can get rid of that constant ringing noise and then separate the mower deck away from the frame and then do what you're saying to do.

I mean I just want to run the blades for maybe even 30 seconds just to see if I'm doing anything productive.

Jim

Click to expand...

The only other thing is I wonder if you can independently look up the belt for this machine I mean I come up with the belt being according to them meaning Sears parts direct something like 1/2 in wide by 101 in long and in my opinion that's wrong I'm just curious I can get you the information it might be in the previous post but that's up to you but that's part of the problem but but let's say a minor one.


Don't know the policy on external links but this is for SEARS.

Time to punt!
You need to get the deck out from under the tractor and evaluate the problem. There may be a problem with the deck. Are any of the pulley, bracket mounting hole wallowed out? If those things check out, the part numbers need to be verified as correct to that mower. Those parts must be mounted correctly. That mean that the pulleys should all be level with one another.
Good Luck.

MParr said:

Time to punt!
You need to get the deck out from under the tractor and evaluate the problem. There may be a problem with the deck. Are any of the pulley, bracket mounting hole wallowed out? If those things check out, the part numbers need to be verified as correct to that mower. Those parts must be mounted correctly. That mean that the pulleys should all be level with one another.
Good Luck.

Click to expand...

You know what thanks for this because I just ran it + running pretty good as far as no more constant ringing noise but having said that I only ran it for a couple minutes so it seems like progress is being made so I will definitely take your advice and the advice of others but the most important part for me is to stop that constant ringing noise and I'm pretty sure when Forest made the suggestion of using customer supplied washers which I did the ringing noise went away but in a few days slide the mower deck out and go over everything.

Thanks,
Jim

JimP2014 said:

You know what thanks for this because I just ran it + running pretty good as far as no more constant ringing noise but having said that I only ran it for a couple minutes so it seems like progress is being made so I will definitely take your advice and the advice of others but the most important part for me is to stop that constant ringing noise and I'm pretty sure when Forest made the suggestion of using customer supplied washers which I did the ringing noise went away but in a few days slide the mower deck out and go over everything.

Thanks,
Jim

Click to expand...

But in retrospect I have those washers in place I guess for a few years and I got rid of them maybe a couple months ago because I'm saying why did I do such a stupid thing well the washers need to be there brand new right out of the factory I have no idea if you get that ringing noise when the blades are engaged don't know that.

Rivets said this too. Excellent advice on the steps needed so I will have this handy as a checklist.


1. Remove the deck.
2. One at a time remove each pulley and carriage bolt and check that there is no slop between bolt and pulley bearing. Were the pulleys you purchased OEM?
3. Verify that there is square hole the bolt goes through has no slop and the bolt fits snugly. You are using carriage bolts and Nyloc nuts?
4. Check the tensioner making sure that there is no slop in the pivot point. The arm should not move up/down.
5. Check the bracket where the stationary idler pulley mounts, that it is not worn or bent. There has to be a reason for the angle I see.

JimP2014 said:

Rivets said this too. Excellent advice on the steps needed so I will have this handy as a checklist.


1. Remove the deck.
2. One at a time remove each pulley and carriage bolt and check that there is no slop between bolt and pulley bearing. Were the pulleys you purchased OEM?
3. Verify that there is square hole the bolt goes through has no slop and the bolt fits snugly. You are using carriage bolts and Nyloc nuts?
4. Check the tensioner making sure that there is no slop in the pivot point. The arm should not move up/down.
5. Check the bracket where the stationary idler pulley mounts, that it is not worn or bent. There has to be a reason for the angle I see.

Click to expand...

Mr rivets to answer your question the other ones do not have that nylon on the inside of the nut but the brand new ones that I'm using do so I don't know what you're getting to about that but I'm using the nylon inset on the nut and that's for both idler pulleys the small one and the large one

Forest#2 said:

Ronnie Milsap can see that idler is not correct.

You might have to remove the deck and take the bracket off for a complete inspection. There may be a SHOULDER washer under the bracket that allows it to spring loaded swivel and a matching thru bolt with a nut under the deck. That bracket that the idler mounts to should have very little up and down play also. Make sure that the deck is not cracked around the shoulder washer area. The bolt that holds that bracket to the deck needs to be checked to see if it's tight/bent or ???

Anyway that area is of interest as the Police inspectors say.

Click to expand...

Hey forest it's singing like your buddy Ronnie not ringing anymore let's see how long it lasts but I need to make some other changes with the deck completely removed from the frame

Here is the video of the mower deck blades engaging and no ringing noise which is significantly better than it was maybe it still needs some work for other things also.

Thanks,
Jim

@JimP2014, what is your goal here? Do you want to "fix it right" and keep this mower working for another 10 yrs? Or do you want to just get it fixed enough to work for now, with plans to run it until it dies? I understand each position. It may not be worth it to "fix it right". If you DO want to fix it right, you have more work to do. The pulleys still aren't right.
Pulleys should:
- Not wobble.
- Not have much vertical play.
- Spin freely without excessive noise. They will make some noise, but they shouldn't be loud.

The tensioner arm shouldn't have play in it either. With the deck engaged, the belt should ride close to the middle of the idler pulleys. The belt should not ride against the edge of any of the idler pulleys. Belts should not get warm if the blades aren't mowing any grass. If you're wanting to keep this thing for a while, I would fix these things before getting wound up over belt lengths & widths. If you just want to get through this season, let 'er rip.

GearHead36 said:

@JimP2014, what is your goal here? Do you want to "fix it right" and keep this mower working for another 10 yrs? Or do you want to just get it fixed enough to work for now, with plans to run it until it dies? I understand each position. It may not be worth it to "fix it right". If you DO want to fix it right, you have more work to do. The pulleys still aren't right.
Pulleys should:
- Not wobble.
- Not have much vertical play.
- Spin freely without excessive noise. They will make some noise, but they shouldn't be loud.

The tensioner arm shouldn't have play in it either. With the deck engaged, the belt should ride close to the middle of the idler pulleys. The belt should not ride against the edge of any of the idler pulleys. Belts should not get warm if the blades aren't mowing any grass. If you're wanting to keep this thing for a while, I would fix these things before getting wound up over belt lengths & widths. If you just want to get through this season, let 'er rip.

Click to expand...

Well I have been battling some neck and shoulder nerve damage for a few months so a lot of how this goes depends on that no fun when you're doing some work on this thing and your whole shoulder is tingling and is numb but I think if I can move past all that and it heals reasonably well then yeah I like to really do a great job on it but as it stands now, mostly get it to run right would be the goal and not to prolong this injury to my neck and shoulder.

But an excellent question no doubt about it.


Jim

At least remove the blades while you are fooling around off the tractor with the deck blades turning and taking videos etc.

You are fooling around a dangerous area, being off the mower and taking videos of the deck while the blades are spinning and it making strange noises.

If a blade comes off with you close by or a bystander it can take some meat and vital stuff.

Read post 36, and don't worry about belts until you get the deck stuff closely examined.

Thanks Forest. I have generally speaking adopted the policy, "Don't learn safety by accident".


Thanks,
Jim