Export thread

Still trying to get the mower deck right

#1

J

JimP2014

Hello I have an lt2000 19.5 horsepower hp Craftsman.

The mower deck is a 42-in cutting with deck.

For more than a month I've had the deck separated from the frame of the mower.

I have replaced both spindles I have replaced the large idler pulley, I have replaced the small idler pulley.

I have replaced the belt it may not be the original belt but it's a Kevlar belt and it's 100.25 in Long.

It is a deep v belt and I'm replacing what I put on last year with a brand new one, I don't recall this ringing noise problem last year.

So I just ran the machine with the mower deck engaged there's hardly anything to cut because everything's so dry so any stress put on the mower deck or the engine is 99%. Whatever this problem is with this ringing noise.

I ran the machine for about 5 minutes essentially cutting nothing because everything is brown but one thing I was asked to do was after I shut the machine down to see what the temperature is of the belt now I could have used a thermal gun but I use my finger and I can comfortably keep my finger on the belt for say 20 seconds and then I have to take it off because it's just getting too hot so if I need to get an exact temperature using a thermal gun I can do that.

But the problem is this ringing noise and to identify whether or not is coming from the mower deck some component on the mower deck so when I'm not engaging the blade there is no ringing noise.

When I engage the blade the ringing noise begins. I'm assuming the problem is the mower deck but I could be wrong.

This last time that I slid the mower deck back underneath the chassis I noticed that the front rod would not connect to the front of the mower deck so I had to loosen the setting on it it's as if the mower deck took up a new position say a half inch to an inch towards the rear tires I don't know how this could happen but I adjusted that front rod so that I could slip it through the front of the mower deck.

Maybe I needed to lift the front of the mower deck up a bit and it would have connected just fine but I adjusted it so the front rod is a little bit longer now effectively.

I hope to post videos of the lt2000 Craftsman running without the mower deck engaged and then when I engage it and then get videos of both sides of the mower deck but the belt is scored it's roughed up it's got a black band around the outside. And I've read everything about what that means but I can't seem to fix it.

Model # 917289070 Official Craftsman tractor

I can live with this ringing noise as long as the ringing noise isn't contributing to the burnt belt and I did notice that this 100.25 in belt might be slightly long however last summer it did work I bought three belts that were too short and this 100.25 in belt did work so I went with that as the length of belt I need maybe because there is some slack I need say a 99 in belt or a '99.5 in belt but if you go by the recommendations from Craftsman and going back to last Summer I believe you end up with a belt that is way too short so that's why I'm guessing on the belt.

Jim


#2

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Hello I have an lt2000 19.5 horsepower hp Craftsman.

The mower deck is a 42-in cutting with deck.

For more than a month I've had the deck separated from the frame of the mower.

I have replaced both spindles I have replaced the large idler pulley, I have replaced the small idler pulley.

I have replaced the belt it may not be the original belt but it's a Kevlar belt and it's 100.25 in Long.

It is a deep v belt and I'm replacing what I put on last year with a brand new one, I don't recall this ringing noise problem last year.

So I just ran the machine with the mower deck engaged there's hardly anything to cut because everything's so dry so any stress put on the mower deck or the engine is 99%. Whatever this problem is with this ringing noise.

I ran the machine for about 5 minutes essentially cutting nothing because everything is brown but one thing I was asked to do was after I shut the machine down to see what the temperature is of the belt now I could have used a thermal gun but I use my finger and I can comfortably keep my finger on the belt for say 20 seconds and then I have to take it off because it's just getting too hot so if I need to get an exact temperature using a thermal gun I can do that.

But the problem is this ringing noise and to identify whether or not is coming from the mower deck some component on the mower deck so when I'm not engaging the blade there is no ringing noise.

When I engage the blade the ringing noise begins. I'm assuming the problem is the mower deck but I could be wrong.

This last time that I slid the mower deck back underneath the chassis I noticed that the front rod would not connect to the front of the mower deck so I had to loosen the setting on it it's as if the mower deck took up a new position say a half inch to an inch towards the rear tires I don't know how this could happen but I adjusted that front rod so that I could slip it through the front of the mower deck.

Maybe I needed to lift the front of the mower deck up a bit and it would have connected just fine but I adjusted it so the front rod is a little bit longer now effectively.

I hope to post videos of the lt2000 Craftsman running without the mower deck engaged and then when I engage it and then get videos of both sides of the mower deck but the belt is scored it's roughed up it's got a black band around the outside. And I've read everything about what that means but I can't seem to fix it.

Model # 917289070 Official Craftsman tractor

I can live with this ringing noise as long as the ringing noise isn't contributing to the burnt belt and I did notice that this 100.25 in belt might be slightly long however last summer it did work I bought three belts that were too short and this 100.25 in belt did work so I went with that as the length of belt I need maybe because there is some slack I need say a 99 in belt or a '99.5 in belt but if you go by the recommendations from Craftsman and going back to last Summer I believe you end up with a belt that is way too short so that's why I'm guessing on the belt.

Jim
Click to expand...
One thing I failed to mention here is the larger idler pulley from way back when I'm sure it's still good but in any case I replace the large idler pulley + I thought there was a problem with it because there was a wobble before I replaced it so I replaced it with a brand new large idler pulley and I got the wobble to go away well after spinning the blades for say 10 minutes few days ago that wobble is back maybe that wobble is supposed to be there I have no idea but I just thought I'd mention it additionally.

Jim


#3

J

JimP2014


This is a video of the left side of the mower deck + the large pulley and one of the spindles can be seen in the foreground but the thing to notice is the constant ringing noise the video starts with the blades engaged but about 3/4 of way through I turn the blades off and the ring noise goes away and then I engage the blades again and the ringing noises back so this is other than the belt needing to be replaced I just have a feeling with a brand new belt I'm still going to have the ringing noise so I'm hoping to address the ringing noise soon.

Thanks,
Jim


#4

R

Rivets

In the video I see two things I don’t like. One, the large idler pulley is at an angle. The idler tensioner arm may be bent. Second, when disengaging the PTO, both idler pulleys wobble, indicating to me that either pulley bearings are bad or the studs are worn. Either of these can cause the harmonic ringing you are hearing.


#5

J

JimP2014

Rivets said:
In the video I see two things I don’t like. One, the large idler pulley is at an angle. The idler tensioner arm may be bent. Second, when disengaging the PTO, both idler pulleys wobble, indicating to me that either pulley bearings are bad or the studs are worn. Either of these can cause the harmonic ringing you are hearing.
Click to expand...
Rivets regarding that large idler pulley so it was wobbling like say for years or maybe it was wobbling since last year I don't know but in any case I just put a brand large idler pulley on and I noticed that it's wobbling so then I tightened it down so tight and then it wasn't wobbling anymore and then I ran the machine with a blades engage for maybe 10-15 minutes and I came back the next day and I noticed that large idler pulley is wobbling again like how can that be so it's a brand new large idler pulley I don't know if that bolt it looks like a carriage bolt is the brand new one from the box where I use the existing one but I did have that large idler pulleys so it would only rotate in One direction without the wobble. Thanks for your reply what are your thoughts on this one?

Jim


#6

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Rivets regarding that large idler pulley so it was wobbling like say for years or maybe it was wobbling since last year I don't know but in any case I just put a brand large idler pulley on and I noticed that it's wobbling so then I tightened it down so tight and then it wasn't wobbling anymore and then I ran the machine with a blades engage for maybe 10-15 minutes and I came back the next day and I noticed that large idler pulley is wobbling again like how can that be so it's a brand new large idler pulley I don't know if that bolt it looks like a carriage bolt is the brand new one from the box where I use the existing one but I did have that large idler pulleys so it would only rotate in One direction without the wobble. Thanks for your reply what are your thoughts on this one?

Jim
Click to expand...
The other thing is regarding that wobbling of that large idler pulley in some other video I don't know which one a guy was talking about how it pivots he was calling it a pivot + I don't know either way what do you think about the possibility what I'm calling a wobble is actually a design feature?


#7

R

Rivets

After watching the video again and looking at the parts diagram I’ve got more questions than suggestions. When you replaced parts, did you use OEM parts?
Small pulley Husqvarna part number 532177968
Large pulley Husqvarna part number 532197379
Belt Husqvarna part number 592855001
According to the web site I used none of these parts are available. How did you cross reference them?
Did you check that the carriage bolts were the right size and the pulleys did not wobble on the bolt before assembly? If your pulleys started to wobble after you mounted them securely, something is wrong in the assembly. It should not come loose. Did you use Nyloc nuts?


#8

J

JimP2014

Rivets said:
After watching the video again and looking at the parts diagram I’ve got more questions than suggestions. When you replaced parts, did you use OEM parts?
Small pulley Husqvarna part number 532177968
Large pulley Husqvarna part number 532197379
Belt Husqvarna part number 592855001
According to the web site I used none of these parts are available. How did you cross reference them?
Did you check that the carriage bolts were the right size and the pulleys did not wobble on the bolt before assembly? If your pulleys started to wobble after you mounted them securely, something is wrong in the assembly. It should not come loose. Did you use Nyloc nuts?
Click to expand...

Rivets said:
After watching the video again and looking at the parts diagram I’ve got more questions than suggestions. When you replaced parts, did you use OEM parts?
Small pulley Husqvarna part number 532177968
Large pulley Husqvarna part number 532197379
Belt Husqvarna part number 592855001
According to the web site I used none of these parts are available. How did you cross reference them?
Did you check that the carriage bolts were the right size and the pulleys did not wobble on the bolt before assembly? If your pulleys started to wobble after you mounted them securely, something is wrong in the assembly. It should not come loose. Did you use Nyloc nuts?
Click to expand...

Attachments





#9

J

JimP2014

Brand: POSFLAG
4.54.5 out of 5 stars(62)

532196106 Husqvarna Idler Pulley with 532177968 Idler Pulley Replaces 532197379 Husqvarna Idler Pulley, 196106 Idler Pulley Craftsman, 197379 177968 193197 for Husqvarna Z254 YTH20K46 Mowers​

I tried to send you an image right here but my phone isn't that good for that maybe I can send it on my PC later but it's basically this what you see above and it was from Amazon when you say how did I cross-reference it I'm not exactly sure what I did maybe I went to look up an Amazon part and then see what numbers from the Sears catalog matched up and then I use that number I honestly don't know but I wanted to make sure I believe I did the right thing for the idler pieces two of them.

And for the belt so last year I bought a belt it wasn't the actual one you're probably indicating so maybe it's just the belt I should get the correct belt for it it's a Husqvarna belt.

All's I can say is I used it for at least 6 months back in 2024 meaning the first purchase of it and the second purchase of it which was say a month ago that's not working out it's all burnt as you can see in the video possibly.

Jim


#10

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Brand: POSFLAG
4.54.5 out of 5 stars(62)

532196106 Husqvarna Idler Pulley with 532177968 Idler Pulley Replaces 532197379 Husqvarna Idler Pulley, 196106 Idler Pulley Craftsman, 197379 177968 193197 for Husqvarna Z254 YTH20K46 Mowers​

I tried to send you an image right here but my phone isn't that good for that maybe I can send it on my PC later but it's basically this what you see above and it was from Amazon when you say how did I cross-reference it I'm not exactly sure what I did maybe I went to look up an Amazon part and then see what numbers from the Sears catalog matched up and then I use that number I honestly don't know but I wanted to make sure I believe I did the right thing for the idler pieces two of them.

And for the belt so last year I bought a belt it wasn't the actual one you're probably indicating so maybe it's just the belt I should get the correct belt for it it's a Husqvarna belt.

All's I can say is I used it for at least 6 months back in 2024 meaning the first purchase of it and the second purchase of it which was say a month ago that's not working out it's all burnt as you can see in the video possibly.

Jim
Click to expand...
Okay it took me awhile to figure out what you're suggesting I should have done is exactly what I did as far as the idler pulleys go the belt it's not the same belt that's for sure so if you're thinking maybe I should just replace the belt for the exact item I need then I could do that and hopefully that makes that ringing noise going away. I will get on that early this coming week for sure.

Thanks,
Jim


#11

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Okay it took me awhile to figure out what you're suggesting I should have done is exactly what I did as far as the idler pulleys go the belt it's not the same belt that's for sure so if you're thinking maybe I should just replace the belt for the exact item I need then I could do that and hopefully that makes that ringing noise going away. I will get on that early this coming week for sure.

Thanks,
Jim
Click to expand...
One more thing when I examine The belt belt which is made by Husqvarna I'm going to see what the exact dimensions are especially the length it has to be at least 99 in I think the ones that I had that were 98 in didn't work at all.

Jim


#12

J

JimP2014

Rivets I was able to look up the belt that you provided I ended up looking at the stens and it's 101 in it's way too big because I'm still on my phone I'll have to look up what the exact replacement is which would be the Husqvarna no other one possible let's say but it has to be at the very most 100.25 in maybe down to 99.5 in the only other thing I considered is the stns belt is correct even though it's too long because of the thickness and all that other stuff that when you actually put it on the machine it snugs itself up that I don't know.

Jim


#13

J

JimP2014

592855001

I found this on Amazon it's a Husqvarna belt the one I'm looking at is like $28.79 or something like that I'm going to buy that one and if it doesn't work the ringing noise refuses to go away I'll just cut the damn lawn the way it is

Jim


#14

R

Rivets

I’m NOT saying go purchase more parts with out doing more investigation. It would be much easier if I was standing next to see what you’re seeing. That being the case, this is what I would do.
1. Remove the deck.
2. One at a time remove each pulley and carriage bolt and check that there is no slop between bolt and pulley bearing. Were the pulleys you purchased OEM?
3. Verify that there is square hole the bolt goes through has no slop and the bolt fits snugly. You are using carriage bolts and Nyloc nuts?
4. Check the tensioner making sure that there is no slop in the pivot point. The arm should not move up/down.
5. Check the bracket where the stationary idler pulley mounts, that it is not worn or bent. There has to be a reason for the angle I see.
6. I’m looking for evidence that someone else has been working on this deck.
7. I’ve never trustEd any parts purchased through AmoScam or FleaBay, more crap than quality.
8. Sorry, but I’m at a loss as to what other causes there may be, so I’m getting out of this thread. Wishing you Good Luck.


#15

J

JimP2014

Rivets said:
I’m NOT saying go purchase more parts with out doing more investigation. It would be much easier if I was standing next to see what you’re seeing. That being the case, this is what I would do.
1. Remove the deck.
2. One at a time remove each pulley and carriage bolt and check that there is no slop between bolt and pulley bearing. Were the pulleys you purchased OEM?
3. Verify that there is square hole the bolt goes through has no slop and the bolt fits snugly. You are using carriage bolts and Nyloc nuts?
4. Check the tensioner making sure that there is no slop in the pivot point. The arm should not move up/down.
5. Check the bracket where the stationary idler pulley mounts, that it is not worn or bent. There has to be a reason for the angle I see.
6. I’m looking for evidence that someone else has been working on this deck.
7. I’ve never trustEd any parts purchased through AmoScam or FleaBay, more crap than quality.
8. Sorry, but I’m at a loss as to what other causes there may be, so I’m getting out of this thread. Wishing you Good Luck.
Click to expand...
No worries especially regarding the belt. I do need another belt so I will buy the:

Husqvarna 592855001 Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 1/2 x 100-1/2-in (Replaces 197253) Genuine Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Part​

$28.37

This I need to do. And thanks for your step by step instructions. I can refer to it as I go along.
Jim


#16

A

Auto Doc's

JimP2014 said:

This is a video of the left side of the mower deck + the large pulley and one of the spindles can be seen in the foreground but the thing to notice is the constant ringing noise the video starts with the blades engaged but about 3/4 of way through I turn the blades off and the ring noise goes away and then I engage the blades again and the ringing noises back so this is other than the belt needing to be replaced I just have a feeling with a brand new belt I'm still going to have the ringing noise so I'm hoping to address the ringing noise soon.

Thanks,
Jim
Click to expand...
The black flat side pulley (shown closest to the side from where of the video was taken) is moving around way too much and appears cocked forward. They don't typically set on a level datum line with the spindle pullies, but this one seems extreme. Idlers commonly have some pitch, and that allows for the changing deck heights.

Where the idler pullies matched and put back in the same location according to their diameter? Look at the following owner's manual I was able to pull up:


An initial belt chirp during engagement is not uncommon, but continuous noise is not common. All you should hear is the whirring of the blades


#17

J

JimP2014

Auto Doc's said:
The black flat side pulley (shown closest to the side from where of the video was taken) is moving around way too much and appears cocked forward. They don't typically set on a level datum line with the spindle pullies, but this one seems extreme. Idlers commonly have some pitch, and that allows for the changing deck heights.

Where the idler pullies matched and put back in the same location according to their diameter? Look at the following owner's manual I was able to pull up:


An initial belt chirp during engagement is not uncommon, but continuous noise is not common. All you should hear is the whirring of the blades
Click to expand...
Hi Auto docs the idler pulley the large one especially is exactly the same as the one I took off there was probably no reason to take the other one off but I can tell you that for a very long time there was that wobble in the large idler pulley in fact when I used all the new hardware for the large idler pulley except I'm not positive about the The bolt I may have used the one that was already there but I don't think so I'll have to check again but what happened was I tightened everything down and so I I grabbed that large idler pulley and I'm wobbling it back and forth just like the other one so then I tighten that nut down as tight as I could get it and at that point there was no wobble at all I then ran the machine I come back a day later and that pulley is back to wobbling now I read someplace or actually I'm sorry I saw a video where a guy is saying that's the feature and I don't know which video it was but he was saying that wobble he called the day pivot he called it a pivot it's part of the design to compensate for various deck heights so I've been asking the question if that wobble when in a completely standing still situation is normal but like I said I did have it tightened down so tight the only thing I could think is that I needed to put a lock washer underneath the nut even though there's a flat washer like I don't get why the whole thing just started wobbling again.

Jim


#18

Cusser

Cusser

My LT1000 42" is from 2005 so quite different than yours. But I'll say that I wear ear protection radio headphones to protect my ears while mowing, so I wouldn't notice any such ringing anyway.


#19

J

JimP2014

Cusser said:
My LT1000 42" is from 2005 so quite different than yours. But I'll say that I wear ear protection radio headphones to protect my ears while mowing, so I wouldn't notice any such ringing anyway.
Click to expand...
Mine might be that old I have no idea it was pretty much gifted to me as junk and then I brought it back to life. And that was say more than 10 years ago so I have no idea how old it is.
Jim


#20

J

JimP2014

I bought a belt here locally this am, and it was marked 100" x 5/8". The "red belt" which is on the machine ( and destroyed ) right now is 100.25" x 1/2" and way too big.

So I tried to replace this new belt in place of the red belt and it looks great on a spindle it fits perfectly so the spindles pulley height must be 5/8" tall. But when going to the other side of the machine and trying to finish wrapping it, I could not. The new belt it is too short. Either unbelievable or predictable?

The only thing I can think of that might work is to remove the small idler pulley ( side with the chute ) and somehow wrap it around the pulley and hope that the bolt when moving the whole thing back, that bolt can get "on center" to the hole in the mower deck frame. I have not done this yet. Is this the way you would normally put on a mower deck belt? Meaning you have to keep the small idler pulley off, wrap the belt around the small idler pulley and then move it to where it needs to mount?

If this does work then my first thought is the blades will always be in a run state, because everything is so tight. The 5/8" fits perfectly to the spindles pulley although. I have no clue how to proceed next?

Jim
Sent from PC, hopefully no typos.

Attachments







#21

F

Forest#2

Rivets said:
In the video I see two things I don’t like. One, the large idler pulley is at an angle. The idler tensioner arm may be bent. Second, when disengaging the PTO, both idler pulleys wobble, indicating to me that either pulley bearings are bad or the studs are worn. Either of these can cause the harmonic ringing you are hearing.
Click to expand...
You were typing at same time as me in your post 20

For one: (in the video) as to what Rivets noticed also
the belt is riding too high on that idler pulley in the video. The top edge of the idler is damaging/chewing the back side of the belt. (belt is getting too high on the idler)
Sometimes people do not pay attention to spacers on the very bottom/underneath of idler pulleys and when they put them back w/o the spacer the idler sets too low. (and the carriage bolt nut may not even allow the bolt to become tight and the whole thing wobbles even though the nut is tight. I've seen spacers collars or spacers washers stick to the bottom of a idler and fall off on floor or the idler get turned upside down with the spacer on top, but usually falls off on floor un-noticed. Also the spacers are usually not shown in a parts diagram.

I see you mention that you really have to tighten the carriage bolt nut to keep the pulley from wobbling. this might indicate you need to add spacer such as washers under the idler pulley so as to space it up and this would also allow the carriage bolt nut to become secure.(I see quite a few threads on top of the carriage bolt in the video. Also some idler pulleys have a offset spacer built into the center hole and if pulley mounted upside down they will not align properly.
Anyway that idler is running too low on the belt due to maybe as rivets says the bracket is bent ot not secure. If that is a swivel spring loaded bracket sometime due to wear they require shims or replacement parts.

Anyway that area is really suspect needs attention.


#22

J

JimP2014

Forest#2 said:
For one:
the belt is riding too high on that idler pulley in the video. The top edge of the idler is damaging the back side of the belt.
Sometimes people do not pay attention to spacers on the very bottom/underneath of idler pulleys and when they put them back w/o the spacer the idler sets too low. (and the carriage bolt nut may not even allow the bolt to become tight and the whole thing wobbles even though the nut is tight. I've seen spacers collars or spacers washers stick to the bottom of a idler and fall off on floor or the idler get turned upside down with the spacer on top, but usually falls off on floor un-noticed. Also the spacers are usually not shown in a parts diagram.

I see you mention that you really have to tighten the carriage bolt nuts to keep the pulley from wobbling. this might indicate you need to add spacer such as washers under the idler pulley so as to space it up and this would also allow the carriage bolt nut to become secure.(I see quite a few threads on top of the carriage bolt in the video.
Anyway that idler is running too low on the belt due to maybe as rivets says the bracket is bent ot not secure. If that is a swivel spring loaded bracket sometime due to wear they require shims or replacement parts.

Anyway that area is really suspect needs attention.
Click to expand...
Forest I posted some other images (2) I bought a brand new belt. I thought I started a new thread but here it is:
www.lawnmowerforum.com

Still trying to get the mower deck right

Okay it took me awhile to figure out what you're suggesting I should have done is exactly what I did as far as the idler pulleys go the belt it's not the same belt that's for sure so if you're thinking maybe I should just replace the belt for the exact item I need then I could do that and...
www.lawnmowerforum.com www.lawnmowerforum.com

Basically it is a 5/8" x 100" kevlar belt and it is too short. So I just tried to remove the small idler pulley and put the belt around it THEN push the whole thing to where that square whole is on the frame. I could not get it to move that far into position. So I am thinking the 5/8" which fits the spindles pulley perfectly has caused the entire belt to shorten up. I have 2 images on here. I will post them here again.

This is where it is say an hour ago. If the 5/8" rather than the 1/2" belt is the way to go then I don't mind buying another 5/8" belt but say 101" or 102" long. I don't know this # right know.

I see what your saying about washers BELOW the large idler pulley. The kit comes with only one washer and that goes on top. I actually had 2 or 3 washers on each idler pulley up until say 2 months ago. I figured this was a hack that I did say last year and I got rid of them not know the consequences. NO Sears parts diagram calls for washers on top of the mower deck frame and then the idler guide and then the large idler pulley then the "brand new washer" then the locking nut. Or maybe it is get the belt guide on top of the frame first. And then the customer supplied washers.

Jim

Attachments







#23

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Forest I posted some other images (2) I bought a brand new belt. I thought I started a new thread but here it is:
www.lawnmowerforum.com

Still trying to get the mower deck right

Okay it took me awhile to figure out what you're suggesting I should have done is exactly what I did as far as the idler pulleys go the belt it's not the same belt that's for sure so if you're thinking maybe I should just replace the belt for the exact item I need then I could do that and...
www.lawnmowerforum.com www.lawnmowerforum.com

Basically it is a 5/8" x 100" kevlar belt and it is too short. So I just tried to remove the small idler pulley and put the belt around it THEN push the whole thing to where that square whole is on the frame. I could not get it to move that far into position. So I am thinking the 5/8" which fits the spindles pulley perfectly has caused the entire belt to shorten up. I have 2 images on here. I will post them here again.

This is where it is say an hour ago. If the 5/8" rather than the 1/2" belt is the way to go then I don't mind buying another 5/8" belt but say 101" or 102" long. I don't know this # right know.

I see what your saying about washers BELOW the large idler pulley. The kit comes with only one washer and that goes on top. I actually had 2 or 3 washers on each idler pulley up until say 2 months ago. I figured this was a hack that I did say last year and I got rid of them not know the consequences. NO Sears parts diagram calls for washers on top of the mower deck frame and then the idler guide and then the large idler pulley then the "brand new washer" then the locking nut. Or maybe it is get the belt guide on top of the frame first. And then the customer supplied washers.

Jim
Click to expand...
Forest for the best belt to use.
1.Stay with the 1/2" belt, jst get a new one since the red kevlar is shreded but check all others things to.

2. Go with the 5/8" belt it fits perfect, it is just a little short. Get a longer length!

Please reply 1 or 2, I am getting confused here.

Thanks,
Jim


#24

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Forest for the best belt to use.
1.Stay with the 1/2" belt, jst get a new one since the red kevlar is shreded but check all others things to.

2. Go with the 5/8" belt it fits perfect, it is just a little short. Get a longer length!

Please reply 1 or 2, I am getting confused here.

Thanks,
Jim
Click to expand...
Here is what Sears says as of right now;

Husqvarna Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 1/2 x 100-1/2-in 592855001​


There is no way in hell that is correct, they might mean

Husqvarna Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 5/8 x 100-1/2-in or maybe even Husqvarna Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 5/8 x 101-1/2-in​


I have a 1/2" x 100.25 belt, and it is way to long.


#25

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Here is what Sears says as of right now;

Husqvarna Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 1/2 x 100-1/2-in 592855001​


There is no way in hell that is correct, they might mean

Husqvarna Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 5/8 x 100-1/2-in or maybe even Husqvarna Lawn Tractor Ground Drive or Blade Drive Belt, 5/8 x 101-1/2-in​


I have a 1/2" x 100.25 belt, and it is way to long.
Click to expand...
Okay so for the current belt which is 5/8 in wide by 100 in Long I pressed my finger onto the belt right where the small idler pulley would Mount and I can tell you I was able to press the bolt the belt rather directly over the center point of that square notch that's cut into the mower deck itself so this 5/8 in belt is 100 in long according to the manufacturer so I'm wondering if the correct length is 102 in 103 in I don't know but I also believe that for any spindle the height of the v-groove which is metal should fit the belt perfectly in other words the half inch belt I've been using it kind of swims inside of that pulley whereas the 5/8 in belt fits that pulley groove perfectly so that's an assumption on my part I don't know what the engineers did who designed any of the stuff but the other thing is you should be able to take any engineer who built this freaking mower deck and have them look at the situation and have him say this is how long the belt should be this is how thick the belt should be in all that stuff

Jim


#26

sgkent

sgkent

also make sure the brakes are not so worn that they allow the pulley to loosen the belt.


#27

J

JimP2014

sgkent said:
also make sure the brakes are not so worn that they allow the pulley to loosen the belt.
Click to expand...
Sk kent,

Everything on this mower deck is new except the mower deck itself.

Jim


#28

J

JimP2014

1000014775.png


#29

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
View attachment 71569
Click to expand...
I bought this in 2024 and these are the dimensions the manufacturer states I bought the same exact one again in July


#30

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
I bought this in 2024 and these are the dimensions the manufacturer states I bought the same exact one again in July
Click to expand...
And basically in 2024 it was a little big so I don't know how Sears it's saying get a bigger one and half inch wide


#31

J

JimP2014

I took 2 photos using the newest 5/8" x 100" kevlar belt I bought locally.

1.) I am pressing my finger and getting the belt taught and then showing how ( and with no blades engaged ) where it lines up with the midpoint of the smaller idler pulley.

2.) Using a spare small idler pulley, it seems the actual radius is 2" but the belt makes contact at the 1 3/4" point.

a)So an appropriate min. belt length might be 100+ 1 3/4 = 101&3/4" <----- this would fit but be very taught I am guessing, not the best.

b) And for maximum I would say 100" ( this is the belt right now ) + say 2 1/2" = 102&1/2" <--- don't know if this would be too loose?

So some dimension between 101&3/4" AND 102&1/2" seems correct.

Attachments







#32

J

JimP2014

So I took the suggestion of Forest and I added some washers and those washers went underneath the small idler pulley and also the large idler pulley it's maybe tough to tell from this photo but it seems like the small idler pulley is tilted away from the plane of the other three pulleys and I think possibly the arm that the small idler pulley is attached to could possibly be bent up.

So the last step would be to put the old belt on that's slightly shredded but the whole point would be to see if the constant ringing noise.

So the way it's mounted is frame then the belt guides on top of the belt guides go the washers and then the idler pulleys and then the washer on top of the either pulleys and then the nut, and the bolt going up through frame one thing I have done which is well it works for me is I got a piece of gray foam maybe 2 in by 2 in and I jam it up underneath the between the frame and the bottom of those carriage bolts and it forces those carriage bolts into that square pattern and it really does a good job you don't need to clamp that bolt somehow and then when you're done just take the gray foam away.

Jim

Attachments





#33

F

Forest#2

Ronnie Milsap can see that idler is not correct.

You might have to remove the deck and take the bracket off for a complete inspection. There may be a SHOULDER washer under the bracket that allows it to spring loaded swivel and a matching thru bolt with a nut under the deck. That bracket that the idler mounts to should have very little up and down play also. Make sure that the deck is not cracked around the shoulder washer area. The bolt that holds that bracket to the deck needs to be checked to see if it's tight/bent or ???

Anyway that area is of interest as the Police inspectors say.


#34

J

JimP2014

Forest#2 said:
Ronnie Milsap can see that idler is not correct.

You might have to remove the deck and take the bracket off for a complete inspection. There may be a SHOULDER washer under the bracket that allows it to spring loaded swivel and a matching thru bolt with a nut under the deck. That bracket that the idler mounts to should have very little up and down play also. Make sure that the deck is not cracked around the shoulder washer area. The bolt that holds that bracket to the deck needs to be checked to see if it's tight/bent or ???

Anyway that area is of interest as the Police inspectors say.
Click to expand...
You know I forgot to mention and thanks for reply on this Forest so when I grab that small icer pulley I could move it towards the sky and move it back towards the ground and it wasn't a lot of movement but I didn't think that was right and I forgot to even ask the question but that's what happened so yeah I hear what you're saying about figuring out what's going on with that so the mower deck was already in place so the only thing I did was tighten down that not but it didn't really do much so I was thinking running the blades because it only takes a minute or two to put that old belt back on the one that's a half inch wide by 100.25 in Long just to see if I can get rid of that constant ringing noise and then separate the mower deck away from the frame and then do what you're saying to do.

I mean I just want to run the blades for maybe even 30 seconds just to see if I'm doing anything productive.

Jim


#35

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
You know I forgot to mention and thanks for reply on this Forest so when I grab that small icer pulley I could move it towards the sky and move it back towards the ground and it wasn't a lot of movement but I didn't think that was right and I forgot to even ask the question but that's what happened so yeah I hear what you're saying about figuring out what's going on with that so the mower deck was already in place so the only thing I did was tighten down that not but it didn't really do much so I was thinking running the blades because it only takes a minute or two to put that old belt back on the one that's a half inch wide by 100.25 in Long just to see if I can get rid of that constant ringing noise and then separate the mower deck away from the frame and then do what you're saying to do.

I mean I just want to run the blades for maybe even 30 seconds just to see if I'm doing anything productive.

Jim
Click to expand...
The only other thing is I wonder if you can independently look up the belt for this machine I mean I come up with the belt being according to them meaning Sears parts direct something like 1/2 in wide by 101 in long and in my opinion that's wrong I'm just curious I can get you the information it might be in the previous post but that's up to you but that's part of the problem but but let's say a minor one.


Don't know the policy on external links but this is for SEARS.


#36

M

MParr

Time to punt!
You need to get the deck out from under the tractor and evaluate the problem. There may be a problem with the deck. Are any of the pulley, bracket mounting hole wallowed out? If those things check out, the part numbers need to be verified as correct to that mower. Those parts must be mounted correctly. That mean that the pulleys should all be level with one another.
Good Luck.


#37

J

JimP2014

MParr said:
Time to punt!
You need to get the deck out from under the tractor and evaluate the problem. There may be a problem with the deck. Are any of the pulley, bracket mounting hole wallowed out? If those things check out, the part numbers need to be verified as correct to that mower. Those parts must be mounted correctly. That mean that the pulleys should all be level with one another.
Good Luck.
Click to expand...
You know what thanks for this because I just ran it + running pretty good as far as no more constant ringing noise but having said that I only ran it for a couple minutes so it seems like progress is being made so I will definitely take your advice and the advice of others but the most important part for me is to stop that constant ringing noise and I'm pretty sure when Forest made the suggestion of using customer supplied washers which I did the ringing noise went away but in a few days slide the mower deck out and go over everything.

Thanks,
Jim


#38

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
You know what thanks for this because I just ran it + running pretty good as far as no more constant ringing noise but having said that I only ran it for a couple minutes so it seems like progress is being made so I will definitely take your advice and the advice of others but the most important part for me is to stop that constant ringing noise and I'm pretty sure when Forest made the suggestion of using customer supplied washers which I did the ringing noise went away but in a few days slide the mower deck out and go over everything.

Thanks,
Jim
Click to expand...
But in retrospect I have those washers in place I guess for a few years and I got rid of them maybe a couple months ago because I'm saying why did I do such a stupid thing well the washers need to be there brand new right out of the factory I have no idea if you get that ringing noise when the blades are engaged don't know that.


#39

J

JimP2014

Rivets said this too. Excellent advice on the steps needed so I will have this handy as a checklist.


1. Remove the deck.
2. One at a time remove each pulley and carriage bolt and check that there is no slop between bolt and pulley bearing. Were the pulleys you purchased OEM?
3. Verify that there is square hole the bolt goes through has no slop and the bolt fits snugly. You are using carriage bolts and Nyloc nuts?
4. Check the tensioner making sure that there is no slop in the pivot point. The arm should not move up/down.
5. Check the bracket where the stationary idler pulley mounts, that it is not worn or bent. There has to be a reason for the angle I see.


#40

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Rivets said this too. Excellent advice on the steps needed so I will have this handy as a checklist.


1. Remove the deck.
2. One at a time remove each pulley and carriage bolt and check that there is no slop between bolt and pulley bearing. Were the pulleys you purchased OEM?
3. Verify that there is square hole the bolt goes through has no slop and the bolt fits snugly. You are using carriage bolts and Nyloc nuts?
4. Check the tensioner making sure that there is no slop in the pivot point. The arm should not move up/down.
5. Check the bracket where the stationary idler pulley mounts, that it is not worn or bent. There has to be a reason for the angle I see.
Click to expand...
Mr rivets to answer your question the other ones do not have that nylon on the inside of the nut but the brand new ones that I'm using do so I don't know what you're getting to about that but I'm using the nylon inset on the nut and that's for both idler pulleys the small one and the large one


#41

J

JimP2014

Forest#2 said:
Ronnie Milsap can see that idler is not correct.

You might have to remove the deck and take the bracket off for a complete inspection. There may be a SHOULDER washer under the bracket that allows it to spring loaded swivel and a matching thru bolt with a nut under the deck. That bracket that the idler mounts to should have very little up and down play also. Make sure that the deck is not cracked around the shoulder washer area. The bolt that holds that bracket to the deck needs to be checked to see if it's tight/bent or ???

Anyway that area is of interest as the Police inspectors say.
Click to expand...
Hey forest it's singing like your buddy Ronnie not ringing anymore let's see how long it lasts but I need to make some other changes with the deck completely removed from the frame


#42

J

JimP2014


Here is the video of the mower deck blades engaging and no ringing noise which is significantly better than it was maybe it still needs some work for other things also.

Thanks,
Jim


#43

G

GearHead36

@JimP2014, what is your goal here? Do you want to "fix it right" and keep this mower working for another 10 yrs? Or do you want to just get it fixed enough to work for now, with plans to run it until it dies? I understand each position. It may not be worth it to "fix it right". If you DO want to fix it right, you have more work to do. The pulleys still aren't right.
Pulleys should:
- Not wobble.
- Not have much vertical play.
- Spin freely without excessive noise. They will make some noise, but they shouldn't be loud.

The tensioner arm shouldn't have play in it either. With the deck engaged, the belt should ride close to the middle of the idler pulleys. The belt should not ride against the edge of any of the idler pulleys. Belts should not get warm if the blades aren't mowing any grass. If you're wanting to keep this thing for a while, I would fix these things before getting wound up over belt lengths & widths. If you just want to get through this season, let 'er rip.


#44

J

JimP2014

GearHead36 said:
@JimP2014, what is your goal here? Do you want to "fix it right" and keep this mower working for another 10 yrs? Or do you want to just get it fixed enough to work for now, with plans to run it until it dies? I understand each position. It may not be worth it to "fix it right". If you DO want to fix it right, you have more work to do. The pulleys still aren't right.
Pulleys should:
- Not wobble.
- Not have much vertical play.
- Spin freely without excessive noise. They will make some noise, but they shouldn't be loud.

The tensioner arm shouldn't have play in it either. With the deck engaged, the belt should ride close to the middle of the idler pulleys. The belt should not ride against the edge of any of the idler pulleys. Belts should not get warm if the blades aren't mowing any grass. If you're wanting to keep this thing for a while, I would fix these things before getting wound up over belt lengths & widths. If you just want to get through this season, let 'er rip.
Click to expand...
Well I have been battling some neck and shoulder nerve damage for a few months so a lot of how this goes depends on that no fun when you're doing some work on this thing and your whole shoulder is tingling and is numb but I think if I can move past all that and it heals reasonably well then yeah I like to really do a great job on it but as it stands now, mostly get it to run right would be the goal and not to prolong this injury to my neck and shoulder.

But an excellent question no doubt about it.


Jim


#45

F

Forest#2

At least remove the blades while you are fooling around off the tractor with the deck blades turning and taking videos etc.

You are fooling around a dangerous area, being off the mower and taking videos of the deck while the blades are spinning and it making strange noises.

If a blade comes off with you close by or a bystander it can take some meat and vital stuff.

Read post 36, and don't worry about belts until you get the deck stuff closely examined.


#46

J

JimP2014

Thanks Forest. I have generally speaking adopted the policy, "Don't learn safety by accident".


Thanks,
Jim


#47

J

JimP2014

Here is what is mower deck for the LT2000 riding mower. I plan on checking everything today.

1.) All pulleys need to rotate in the same plane on the mower deck so make sure of this, and currently not the case.
2.) Check for, "ease of spin". I replaced all of them but can check this again.

The question is for the small idler pulley ( brass colored ) it does move left to right because it is spring loaded and that makes sense. Good spring on it too.

But the small idler pulley has vertical movement too. In other words you can shake that pulley up and down. Is this supposed to be locked down where the only motions
are:
1. Pulley spins freely
2. Pulley can move horizontally ( it is on a track lever) based on the tension of the spring.

Is some vertical movement of this small idler pulley wanted?

Thanks,
Jim

Attachments





#48

G

GearHead36

JimP2014 said:
Is some vertical movement of this small idler pulley wanted?
Click to expand...

GearHead36 said:
@JimP2014,
Pulleys should:
- Not wobble.
- Not have much vertical play.
- Spin freely without excessive noise. They will make some noise, but they shouldn't be loud.
Click to expand...
Idler pulleys should have very little vertical play.


#49

J

JimP2014

This is the small idler pulley side, and inside that yellow rectangle I have that special raised washer. I think this is on the wrong side entirely. The diagram has a simple bolt going up towards the sky and then a locking nut on the top side. Maybe a few washers too. Also I can tighten that nut in the yellow rectangle so tight, the only movement is the pulley spins freely but that arm cannot be moved. So I just looked at Sears parts and it shows

Husqvarna Spacer Retainer 532199092 to mount exactly where I have it mounted but on the other side. This makes no sense it is a designed for a spring to fit underneath it.​

Does anyone know if that 532199092 is truly supposed to go there? OK so I looked again the spacer is part # 56, and I can't find the bolt part # 57 anyplace.

It seems like the Husqvarna Spacer Retainer should not be located here but if I tighten say 80% tight it can work and reduce the vertical play on that lever arm.

Jim

Attachments





#50

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
This is the small idler pulley side, and inside that yellow rectangle I have that special raised washer. I think this is on the wrong side entirely. The diagram has a simple bolt going up towards the sky and then a locking nut on the top side. Maybe a few washers too. Also I can tighten that nut in the yellow rectangle so tight, the only movement is the pulley spins freely but that arm cannot be moved. So I just looked at Sears parts and it shows

Husqvarna Spacer Retainer 532199092 to mount exactly where I have it mounted but on the other side. This makes no sense it is a designed for a spring to fit underneath it.​

Does anyone know if that 532199092 is truly supposed to go there? OK so I looked again the spacer is part # 56, and I can't find the bolt part # 57 anyplace.

It seems like the Husqvarna Spacer Retainer should not be located here but if I tighten say 80% tight it can work and reduce the vertical play on that lever arm.

Jim
Click to expand...
I have it the way the parts diagram shows it, and i think it could be wrong? T or F?


#51

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
I have it the way the parts diagram shows it, and i think it could be wrong? T or F?
Click to expand...

Attachments





#52

J

JimP2014

OK I messed up. It needs to be 34,59,145, and 40. I have some of it correct. I have the small idler pulley where it needs to be and the belt guide too. I got 2 right and 2 wrong. So Sears is correct on this I read it wrong. I have that spacer which only works with the tensioner spring where it does not belong.

These are the parts for the small idler pulley:
Part # 34
3 (2)
Husqvarna Lawn & Garden Equipment Carriage Bolt 596136101
Part #596136101
Replaces #72110612Info Icon
-----------------------------------------------------
Part # 145
Husqvarna Lawn Mower Idler Pulley 532177968
Part #532177968
Replaces #193197Info Icon
---------------------------------------------------------------
Part #40
Husqvarna Lawn Mower Lock Nut, 3/8-in 532409149
Part #532409149
Replaces #73900600Info Icon
-------------------------------------------------------
#59
Lawn Tractor Belt Keeper 531165901
Part #531165901
Replaces #141043Info Icon

Attachments





#53

J

JimP2014

Okay I just went back outside again it's 7:00 p.m. on Friday night and I found the small idler pulley is attached to this metal bracket that metal bracket has a gigantic hole inside that hole needs to be the Husqvarna special washer and then on top of that the bolt goes straight through that the small idler pulley is already attached to that metal arm maybe it's supposed to be on the other side than that arm I don't understand what's going on. Maybe revisiting some videos on this deck might help but the way I see it the small idler pulley does not mount directly to the mower deck it has a metal arm.

The way I have it is the large idler pulley attaches directly to the mower deck maybe it's supposed to be the other way around.

Jim


#54

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Okay I just went back outside again it's 7:00 p.m. on Friday night and I found the small idler pulley is attached to this metal bracket that metal bracket has a gigantic hole inside that hole needs to be the Husqvarna special washer and then on top of that the bolt goes straight through that the small idler pulley is already attached to that metal arm maybe it's supposed to be on the other side than that arm I don't understand what's going on. Maybe revisiting some videos on this deck might help but the way I see it the small idler pulley does not mount directly to the mower deck it has a metal arm.

The way I have it is the large idler pulley attaches directly to the mower deck maybe it's supposed to be the other way around.

Jim
Click to expand...
So I took a screenshot of repair clinic they have it set up exactly the way I do. In fact repair clinic has it 57,56,55 but Sears has it 57,55,56. I have it the way repair clinic has it.

Attachments





#55

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
So I took a screenshot of repair clinic they have it set up exactly the way I do.
Click to expand...
And the reason why it's such a big deal is because when I tighten that bolt down which has the Husqvarna special washer below it it defeats the spring entirely you can't move that pulley anymore which means you have to keep it kind of loose which means there's vertical play in that bracket this is ridiculous


#56

F

Freddie21

I agree with Rivits's assumption. The black pulley looks tilted towards the fron of the deck. It also looks low to the spindle pulley and the belt is riding high in it. This may be where the noise and heat are coming from. Pull the black pulley again, when the pulley is mounted tight, there should be no wobble in the center hub and very little in the bearing. Inspect the bolt's threads. Are they worn down? Not being a hardened shoulder bolt, the pulley may have worn the bolt, hence the wobble. Then inspect the pulley's mounting plate. It's probably noy level. Either bent or the mounting point is bent, or worn, or both. Get that plate straight should raise the pulley into alignment.


#57

J

JimP2014

OK here is the latest image from 30 mins ago. I see what Freddie21 wrote and so this pulley is tilted, I could see it when I was outside. I do have a perfectly good spare also.

When I was looking at it, I can't bend the frame but I was thinking about a shim that might be tilted that will square up this whole setup. Also I have one extra washer underneath the pulley and it might not be needed. I am thinking shim because I can't bend the frame. And the shim never spins anyways, so once it is set in place it should stay like that?

Thanks,
Jim

Attachments





#58

J

JimP2014

Here is my latest idea, remove the customer supplied washer meaning me, and somehow put a shim maybe on one side like 1/2 a washer and then tighten everything down?

Somehow get that carriage bolt to tilt in a slightly different direction but the mower deck frame is unchanged?


#59

G

Gord Baker

JimP2014 said:

This is a video of the left side of the mower deck + the large pulley and one of the spindles can be seen in the foreground but the thing to notice is the constant ringing noise the video starts with the blades engaged but about 3/4 of way through I turn the blades off and the ring noise goes away and then I engage the blades again and the ringing noises back so this is other than the belt needing to be replaced I just have a feeling with a brand new belt I'm still going to have the ringing noise so I'm hoping to address the ringing noise soon.

Thanks,
Jim
Click to expand...
I believe at least 2 of the Flat Idler pulleys are loose and need replacement .
Put the front deck control arm back where it was and loosen off the Nut to replace it. Level the deck with front 1/8" lower than rear. Belt appears OK.


#60

J

JimP2014

Gord Baker said:
I believe at least 2 of the Flat Idler pulleys are loose and need replacement .
Put the front deck control arm back where it was and loosen off the Nut to replace it. Level the deck with front 1/8" lower than rear. Belt appears OK.
Click to expand...
Hi Gord, thanks for your reply I am working on that. I did find you can't actually tighten down the small idler pulley ARM to much because you end up preventing the spring from working. If you tighten it very tight, here is what happens. The arm that the small idler mounts to becomes perfectly secure with no vertical movement in that arm at all. That is great except now the spring cannot travel as it was designed to do because everything is to tight. Remember that arm is spring loaded and that arm has to swivel and for the arm to swivel the bolt can't be to tight. If you need a parts diagram for what I mean, let me know. Both pulleys need to be tight, the small idler pulley mounts to a lever that then mounts to the mower deck. The large idler pulley mounts to the mower deck directly. And this happens to be tilted and not parallel to all the other pulleys. All these pulleys ( 4 ) of them all need to be in the same plane.


#61

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Hi Gord, thanks for your reply I am working on that. I did find you can't actually tighten down the small idler pulley ARM to much because you end up preventing the spring from working. If you tighten it very tight, here is what happens. The arm that the small idler mounts to becomes perfectly secure with no vertical movement in that arm at all. That is great except now the spring cannot travel as it was designed to do because everything is to tight. Remember that arm is spring loaded and that arm has to swivel and for the arm to swivel the bolt can't be to tight. If you need a parts diagram for what I mean, let me know. Both pulleys need to be tight, the small idler pulley mounts to a lever that then mounts to the mower deck. The large idler pulley mounts to the mower deck directly. And this happens to be tilted and not parallel to all the other pulleys. All these pulleys ( 4 ) of them all need to be in the same plane.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure what I'm actually uploading but what I did was I took a piece of cardboard and I put it on one side and it goes underneath the belt guide and a washer and I tried to introduce an angle that overall would make the pulley parallel to the mower deck but that's not the final version the final version will be using an old feeler gauge and figuring out the right thickness using that and the idea is to introduce an angle will help solve the problem.
Jim

Attachments





#62

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
I'm not sure what I'm actually uploading but what I did was I took a piece of cardboard and I put it on one side and it goes underneath the belt guide and a washer and I tried to introduce an angle that overall would make the pulley parallel to the mower deck but that's not the final version the final version will be using an old feeler gauge and figuring out the right thickness using that and the idea is to introduce an angle will help solve the problem.
Jim
Click to expand...
Okay here's my final idea I'm going to take duct tape maybe one strip maybe two strips I don't know + attach it to the underneath side of the belt guide on the side that it needs to go and then lock everything down and see if it fixes the problem with the pulley that is not tracking parallel to the mower deck after that everything should be okay there should be no noises + the mower deck should be complete.


#63

J

JimP2014

So if the pulley doesn't track the way it should this is how I solve the problem with duct tape I put multiple layers directly onto the mower deck frame on one side of it + it works now as far as tracking parallel to the mower deck so hopefully this solves one of the problems with constant ring noise when the blades were engaged.


#64

R

Rivets

Fixing a deck with duck tape? Red Green would be proud to you.


#65

J

JimP2014

Rivets said:
Fixing a deck with duck tape? Red Green would be proud to you.
Click to expand...
For me I see no other solution I don't have the skills to somehow braise some sort of shim to get the angle back. And the truth is this mower deck is of such quality that duct tape is clearly appropriate for it. Years ago Amoco used to have a commercial where the guy says I always wanted to work on a transmission well I too had that dream but with the mower deck.


#66

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
For me I see no other solution I don't have the skills to somehow braise some sort of shim to get the angle back. And the truth is this mower deck is of such quality that duct tape is clearly appropriate for it. Years ago Amoco used to have a commercial where the guy says I always wanted to work on a transmission well I too had that dream but with the mower deck.
Click to expand...
Rivets you have no idea the things I've found so with the other small idler pulley and with the mower deck completely separated from the chassis that bolt you can only tighten it so tight otherwise it interferes with the action of the spring so if you tighten it as much as you can reasonably and then move the small idler pulley back and forth you'll notice the bolt backs itself out so I don't think duct tape would work for this one I think maybe a little tiny c-clamp that's my idea on that.


#67

D

Doofy

On my 42 inch Craftsman Deck, my horrendous screeching racket was caused by cracked welds on an idler bracket. It also caused the spindle pulley to chew through the brake arm. It took me several "looks" and multiple head scratches to decipher the problem. I love my Hobart Handler 140 wire feed welder for these types of problems.🤓


#68

J

JimP2014

Doofy said:
On my 42 inch Craftsman Deck, my horrendous screeching racket was caused by cracked welds on an idler bracket. It also caused the spindle pulley to chew through the brake arm. It took me several "looks" and multiple head scratches to decipher the problem. I love my Hobart Handler 140 wire feed welder for these types of problems.🤓
Click to expand...
See I don't have those skills so you know not much I can do there but I believe you.


#69

J

Johner

JimP2014 said:
Hello I have an lt2000 19.5 horsepower hp Craftsman.

The mower deck is a 42-in cutting with deck.

For more than a month I've had the deck separated from the frame of the mower.

I have replaced both spindles I have replaced the large idler pulley, I have replaced the small idler pulley.

I have replaced the belt it may not be the original belt but it's a Kevlar belt and it's 100.25 in Long.

It is a deep v belt and I'm replacing what I put on last year with a brand new one, I don't recall this ringing noise problem last year.

So I just ran the machine with the mower deck engaged there's hardly anything to cut because everything's so dry so any stress put on the mower deck or the engine is 99%. Whatever this problem is with this ringing noise.

I ran the machine for about 5 minutes essentially cutting nothing because everything is brown but one thing I was asked to do was after I shut the machine down to see what the temperature is of the belt now I could have used a thermal gun but I use my finger and I can comfortably keep my finger on the belt for say 20 seconds and then I have to take it off because it's just getting too hot so if I need to get an exact temperature using a thermal gun I can do that.

But the problem is this ringing noise and to identify whether or not is coming from the mower deck some component on the mower deck so when I'm not engaging the blade there is no ringing noise.

When I engage the blade the ringing noise begins. I'm assuming the problem is the mower deck but I could be wrong.

This last time that I slid the mower deck back underneath the chassis I noticed that the front rod would not connect to the front of the mower deck so I had to loosen the setting on it it's as if the mower deck took up a new position say a half inch to an inch towards the rear tires I don't know how this could happen but I adjusted that front rod so that I could slip it through the front of the mower deck.

Maybe I needed to lift the front of the mower deck up a bit and it would have connected just fine but I adjusted it so the front rod is a little bit longer now effectively.

I hope to post videos of the lt2000 Craftsman running without the mower deck engaged and then when I engage it and then get videos of both sides of the mower deck but the belt is scored it's roughed up it's got a black band around the outside. And I've read everything about what that means but I can't seem to fix it.

Model # 917289070 Official Craftsman tractor

I can live with this ringing noise as long as the ringing noise isn't contributing to the burnt belt and I did notice that this 100.25 in belt might be slightly long however last summer it did work I bought three belts that were too short and this 100.25 in belt did work so I went with that as the length of belt I need maybe because there is some slack I need say a 99 in belt or a '99.5 in belt but if you go by the recommendations from Craftsman and going back to last Summer I believe you end up with a belt that is way too short so that's why I'm guessing on the belt.

Jim
Click to expand...
Only one way to measure belts, do you still hove the old one that worked? If yes, get a tape used to measure fabrics, yes it is a cloth tape Singer makes one. Measure the out side of the belt with the tape.
I have tried two ways, one roling the belt on a bench got one measurement,,Came out the wrong size, used the cloth tape measurement was right size. This way came from a belt supplier.


#70

J

JimP2014

Johner said:
Only one way to measure belts, do you still hove the old one that worked? If yes, get a tape used to measure fabrics, yes it is a cloth tape Singer makes one. Measure the out side of the belt with the tape.
I have tried two ways, one roling the belt on a bench got one measurement,,Came out the wrong size, used the cloth tape measurement was right size. This way came from a belt supplier.
Click to expand...
Johner,
Thanks for the reply I don't know if I still have the old belt because the one that is partially shredded I'm still using and I don't know where the other one went it was from last year. I could tell you according to the product description from when I bought this belt it's 100.25 in by 1/2 in and I bought a belt here locally + 100 in by 5/8 in and it doesn't fit at all and for that one I figured I need 102 in by 5/8 in but I'm going to stick with what I have right now just to see if all the other stuff is working but you make some good points.

Jim


#71

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Johner,
Thanks for the reply I don't know if I still have the old belt because the one that is partially shredded I'm still using and I don't know where the other one went it was from last year. I could tell you according to the product description from when I bought this belt it's 100.25 in by 1/2 in and I bought a belt here locally + 100 in by 5/8 in and it doesn't fit at all and for that one I figured I need 102 in by 5/8 in but I'm going to stick with what I have right now just to see if all the other stuff is working but you make some good points.

Jim
Click to expand...
Johner,

I found the belt and so I cut it and so I used duct tape to tape it basically to a kitchen countertop area and it turns out it's 99 in long it was supposed to be 100.25 in I don't get it. And furthermore it's a little bit too long + that's because of the 1/2-in width where it basically swims inside pulleys and it just sinks down and the 5/8 in belt was too short by about 2 in and it measured stamped right on the belt itself 5/8x100.

And I forgot to mention I just I ran it no more ringing noise when the mower deck is engaged there's a little bit of vibration coming out of the mower deck it might have always been that way but now I'm looking at it more closely it seemed to run pretty good.

Jim


#72

M

MParr

The only ways that pulley could be tilted is a bent bolt, wallowed out bolt mounting hole or bent mounting bracket. THE END!


#73

D

Doofy

I usually cross the OEM belt number to the brands I'm looking at and have had fairly consistent good luck. I don't buy the cheapest thing I see either.


#74

J

JimP2014

MParr said:
The only ways that pulley could be tilted is a bent bolt, wallowed out bolt mounting hole or bent mounting bracket. THE END!
Click to expand...
Okay I appreciate your answer and I understand your frustration Right now I'm just trying to get the thing to run and it's definitely not a bolt because the bolt's brand new came right out of a box but regardless I get what you're saying


#75

M

MParr



#76

J

JimP2014

MParr said:
Click to expand...
Who you talking about Barney Fife? I'll pass.


#77

J

JimP2014

Doofy said:
On my 42 inch Craftsman Deck, my horrendous screeching racket was caused by cracked welds on an idler bracket. It also caused the spindle pulley to chew through the brake arm. It took me several "looks" and multiple head scratches to decipher the problem. I love my Hobart Handler 140 wire feed welder for these types of problems.🤓
Click to expand...
Doofy,
Your skills with welding are something that I've always wanted to learn and I've looked briefly at some sort of rig that's like $200 to $300 from places like harbor freight.

But based on the problem you had and your solution that seems like the way to go however I've been thinking that a mower deck should be nothing more than a shell with very few extra features meaning that for example where you mount the small idler pulley that whole bracket assembly should be bolt on to the mower deck and if something goes wrong you replace the small idler pulley assembly you don't need to somehow weld the deck I'm thinking all those components should be easily replaceable without any hassle to the consumer. Having said that if I was building a mower deck from what I've seen I'd make all those components bolt on + you swap out that component so for example there's something wrong with a small idler pulley assembly you just replace that part and that part bolts on to the mower deck. I mean if manufacturers want to entice individuals into buying their machines they should make it so that the end user and I'm talking strictly a consumer that only wants to use their machines now and then they should be thinking in these terms and in fact if they did from what I've seen they could use this as a selling point for their product.

Jim


#78

J

JimP2014


It sounds good when you're sitting on the machine you engage the blade s + here's what's actually going on I don't know what to say it is laughable I'm laughing even though I should be crying all this work. I post this figuring someone's going to say what is that or they might say yeah that's what goes on that's typical I honestly don't know which is which so I'm posting it next week is supposed to be nice weather so maybe it needs a little bit more work.

Jim


#79

J

JimP2014

Here are 2 images, one from Repair Clinic and one from Sears parts for

Model # 917289070 Official Craftsman tractor.​


The images contradict one another. Who is right?

Attachments







#80

R

Rivets

Not you for sure. I don’t know why I keep following this thread, but it has gotten so bad I have to warn others not to use anything you suggest to do. The part #57 you call a bolt and washer is just a specific type of bolt with NO separate washer. It is called a Tower Lawn & Garden Equipment Head Bolt, with a part number of 817000616. I’ve posted a picture of the proper bolt. After rereading this entire thread I believe that most of the parts you are using NON OEM replacement parts. I say this because I asked about replacement parts and numbers, and you convienently failed to post them. Changing the belt size because you feel they posted the wrong size is just plain stupid. You have constantly said that info others have posted and part diagrams are wrong. The members who have tried to help you have far more experience than you and with the age of this unit, I doubt that the parts diagram is wrong, as that would have been updated years ago. I know you think you know more than me, but that doesn’t take a lot of knowledge to do. What I do know is I must warn people about how wrong the info you post is. You’re not even a DIY guy, just a hack who has more time, money and attitude to be dangerous to others who may run into a similar problem in the future.

1756073093753.png


#81

M

MParr

Rivets said:
Not you for sure. I don’t know why I keep following this thread, but it has gotten so bad I have to warn others not to use anything you suggest to do. The part #57 you call a bolt and washer is just a specific type of bolt with NO separate washer. It is called a Tower Lawn & Garden Equipment Head Bolt, with a part number of 817000616. I’ve posted a picture of the proper bolt. After rereading this entire thread I believe that most of the parts you are using NON OEM replacement parts. I say this because I asked about replacement parts and numbers, and you convienently failed to post them. Changing the belt size because you feel they posted the wrong size is just plain stupid. You have constantly said that info others have posted and part diagrams are wrong. The members who have tried to help you have far more experience than you and with the age of this unit, I doubt that the parts diagram is wrong, as that would have been updated years ago. I know you think you know more than me, but that doesn’t take a lot of knowledge to do. What I do know is I must warn people about how wrong the info you post is. You’re not even a DIY guy, just a hack who has more time, money and attitude to be dangerous to others who may run into a similar problem in the future.

View attachment 71631
Click to expand...
I've already suggested that he "call the man."
Other than that, I'm done.


#82

J

JimP2014

The bolt is not in question by me. Where that spacer goes IS IN QUESTION BY ME. I am using "the bolt" as a frame of reference. The bolt is fine.

I found "the bolt" to be: "Tower Lawn & Garden Equipment Head Bolt 817000616" <--- I came to the same conclusion as you did. This has nothing to do with my question.

My question is and I can use part #'s here also:

Is the order:
Order A
1.) Part # 57 Tower Lawn & Garden Equipment Head Bolt 817000616
2.) Part # 56 - Husqvarna Spacer Retainer 532199092
3.) Part #55 - Lawn Tractor Blade Idler Pulley Arm 531169401

Order B
1.) Part # 57 Tower Lawn & Garden Equipment Head Bolt 817000616
2.) Part #55 - Lawn Tractor Blade Idler Pulley Arm 531169401
3.) Part # 56 - Husqvarna Spacer Retainer 532199092

Order A is the way I have it and also Repair Clinic
Order B is the way the Sears Parts Catalog has it.

This is the question, I have no clue how you came to the conclusion or wasted your time to point out Part # 57 Tower Lawn & Garden Equipment Head Bolt 817000616 is the bolt needed. I 100% agree you are correct, this has nothing to do with what I am asking.

The question is, order A or order B <---- this is the question right here.

I know all of the parts, I am asking about the "ORDER OF ASSEMBLY"

Jim
P.S. Identifying the parts needed is the first step, the second step is order of assembly.


#83

F

farmerdave1954

Holy cow! I can't believe I just sat here and read through all 9 pages of this thread going back over a week! JimP2014, I do believe you now hold the record for the longest single, unpunctuated sentence I have ever read. Up until post #60 I don't believe I saw a single punctuation mark, and few capital letters. #60 was beautiful. It would have gotten you an A+ on a college writing exam. This lack of punctuation makes your posts extremely hard to read because we don't know when you leave one sentence and start another. The reader has to try to figure out what you are saying and decode your post. At a minimum you need to use periods at the end of a sentence, and capital letters for the first word of a sentence. A few appropriately located commas would also help the meaning of what you are writing come through a little better. Rest assured you are NOT the only one that does this, you are just the one that put me over the top and made it necessary for me to call your attention to it. Otherwise I would never be able to sleep tonight.

But, that aside, it seems to me that you are in over your head with this project. I do applaud you for trying, though. It's just a simple mower deck. There are only a few things that can go bad on them. Bearings are probably number 1, belts break, pulleys wear out, bolts break, belt tensioning springs break, bent metal on a bracket, and occasionally a weld will break. Your problem with the belt length is probably because you are trying to put the "too short" ones on without releasing the spring tension on the belt tensioning pulley. The wobbling pulley after you just tightened it is probably because you didn't have the square shoulder on the bolt aligned with the square hole, so once you started using it, the vibration caused the bolt to rotate where the 2 shapes aligned, and then the bolt popped into place, causing it to be loose. It should not be hard to find the case of that wobbling. I can absolutely assure you this: Using duct tape on a mower deck ain't gonna fix it.

Like Rivets, I'm bugging out of this tread. I can't take any more of it. It reminds me of a tech I had working for me years ago when I was a desk-bound tech support guy for all the field techs at a telephone company. Occasionally, while on a customer's site he would call in for help and tell me all the problems he was finding, asking me questions and trying what I suggested, eventually getting to the point that we were just going in circles and nothing was making sense. It finally dawned on me that he wasn't trying what I was suggesting, he just told me he did to get me to move on to another possibility. After half an hour, he'd suddenly be the hero when he would "find" the problem and fix it. Turned out, there never was a problem, he just described symptoms so he could keep me running in circles, hoping to not have to run another service call for a couple of hours. It took me exactly 4 of these calls to catch on to his game. I'm ashamed to admit it took that long.

I wish you good luck. I'm going to bed.


#84

J

JimP2014

farmerdave1954 said:
Holy cow! I can't believe I just sat here and read through all 9 pages of this thread going back over a week! JimP2014, I do believe you now hold the record for the longest single, unpunctuated sentence I have ever read. Up until post #60 I don't believe I saw a single punctuation mark, and few capital letters. #60 was beautiful. It would have gotten you an A+ on a college writing exam. This lack of punctuation makes your posts extremely hard to read because we don't know when you leave one sentence and start another. The reader has to try to figure out what you are saying and decode your post. At a minimum you need to use periods at the end of a sentence, and capital letters for the first word of a sentence. A few appropriately located commas would also help the meaning of what you are writing come through a little better. Rest assured you are NOT the only one that does this, you are just the one that put me over the top and made it necessary for me to call your attention to it. Otherwise I would never be able to sleep tonight.

But, that aside, it seems to me that you are in over your head with this project. I do applaud you for trying, though. It's just a simple mower deck. There are only a few things that can go bad on them. Bearings are probably number 1, belts break, pulleys wear out, bolts break, belt tensioning springs break, bent metal on a bracket, and occasionally a weld will break. Your problem with the belt length is probably because you are trying to put the "too short" ones on without releasing the spring tension on the belt tensioning pulley. The wobbling pulley after you just tightened it is probably because you didn't have the square shoulder on the bolt aligned with the square hole, so once you started using it, the vibration caused the bolt to rotate where the 2 shapes aligned, and then the bolt popped into place, causing it to be loose. It should not be hard to find the case of that wobbling. I can absolutely assure you this: Using duct tape on a mower deck ain't gonna fix it.

Like Rivets, I'm bugging out of this tread. I can't take any more of it. It reminds me of a tech I had working for me years ago when I was a desk-bound tech support guy for all the field techs at a telephone company. Occasionally, while on a customer's site he would call in for help and tell me all the problems he was finding, asking me questions and trying what I suggested, eventually getting to the point that we were just going in circles and nothing was making sense. It finally dawned on me that he wasn't trying what I was suggesting, he just told me he did to get me to move on to another possibility. After half an hour, he'd suddenly be the hero when he would "find" the problem and fix it. Turned out, there never was a problem, he just described symptoms so he could keep me running in circles, hoping to not have to run another service call for a couple of hours. It took me exactly 4 of these calls to catch on to his game. I'm ashamed to admit it took that long.

I wish you good luck. I'm going to bed.
Click to expand...
Nice.

What are your thoughts on this?
Order A
1.) Part # 57 Tower Lawn & Garden Equipment Head Bolt 817000616
2.) Part # 56 - Husqvarna Spacer Retainer 532199092
3.) Part #55 - Lawn Tractor Blade Idler Pulley Arm 531169401

Order B
1.) Part # 57 Tower Lawn & Garden Equipment Head Bolt 817000616
2.) Part #55 - Lawn Tractor Blade Idler Pulley Arm 531169401
3.) Part # 56 - Husqvarna Spacer Retainer 532199092


#85

R

Rivets

Here is the reassembly order I suggest you follow.

1. Admit that I’m smarter than those on this forum who have tried to help me. This is because I don’t understand what they are saying and don’t need to answer their questions. Even smarter than those who produced the parts diagram.
2. Admit that I’m in over my head.
3. Load the deck and all parts into your truck and “call the man” in your area who is smarter than us and you.
4. Go see him and ask him to put everything back into running condition.
5. Pay him what he asks and inform him he is smarter than everyone on this form.
6. Take it home, install on the tractor and enjoy the rest of the summer.
7. Delete this forum from your browser,


#86

J

JimP2014

Rivets said:
Here is the reassembly order I suggest you follow.

1. Admit that I’m smarter than those on this forum who have tried to help me. This is because I don’t understand what they are saying and don’t need to answer their questions. Even smarter than those who produced the parts diagram.
2. Admit that I’m in over my head.
3. Load the deck and all parts into your truck and “call the man” in your area who is smarter than us and you.
4. Go see him and ask him to put everything back into running condition.
5. Pay him what he asks and inform him he is smarter than everyone on this form.
6. Take it home, install on the tractor and enjoy the rest of the summer.
7. Delete this forum from your browser,
Click to expand...
I have considered your suggestion on numerous occasions, the man I want to see is 15-20 miles away. He IS THE MAN. "4 of the mans" have left locally, they all had thriving biz, featuring sales and services, they are all GONE. HD, Lowes ect has replaced them. THE MAN told me it would cost me maybe $150 either round trip or one way, I forget just to see the thing. He would need to pick it up. Or I could throw the deck in the back of a pickup, but I do not have a pickup. There are mobile mechanics. But what is needed is someone with "extreme small engine/the rest of the rig experience" AND do it over a smartphone like facebook maybe not facebook, but similar. If they told me, "I will help you and my rate is $30 / .5 hrs, I would do that" . This service from what I can tell does not exist, but should.

Rivets go make a mil!

Jim


#87

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
I have considered your suggestion on numerous occasions, the man I want to see is 15-20 miles away. He IS THE MAN. "4 of the mans" have left locally, they all had thriving biz, featuring sales and services, they are all GONE. HD, Lowes ect has replaced them. THE MAN told me it would cost me maybe $150 either round trip or one way, I forget just to see the thing. He would need to pick it up. Or I could throw the deck in the back of a pickup, but I do not have a pickup. There are mobile mechanics. But what is needed is someone with "extreme small engine/the rest of the rig experience" AND do it over a smartphone like facebook maybe not facebook, but similar. If they told me, "I will help you and my rate is $30 / .5 hrs, I would do that" . This service from what I can tell does not exist, but should.

Rivets go make a mil!

Jim
Click to expand...
Rivets you motivated me to do the right thing stay tuned.

Jim


#88

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Rivets you motivated me to do the right thing stay tuned.

Jim
Click to expand...
The title of the finished product is,

" I am not the man but this ain't bad".



The person who said sometimes that mount for the pulley that square notch cause a major problem + fixing that was instrumental.

Jim


#89

F

farmerdave1954

Nice, smooth operation! So did you have to take it to "the man" or did you try the bolt and fix it yourself?


#90

J

JimP2014

farmerdave1954 said:
Nice, smooth operation! So did you have to take it to "the man" or did you try the bolt and fix it yourself?
Click to expand...
I'm afraid to tell you how I fixed it because there are people that actually know how to weld and I haven't learned that skill but here's a way I thought about the problem welding is more or less creating a better bond with metal so I chose JB weld two-part epoxy and I smeared it all around there and and then used to test pulley just to make sure everything was perpendicular in many different directions and I let it harden and then I just tested how it spun and I got good rotation in a horizontal plane looking at it from different angles so either it's going to hold up or it's going to break now I know if I had the skill of someone else posted on this thread whatever they did there's no doubt it's going to work probably forever but that's the way I did it I also added Wheels while I was at it.

But thanks for asking Dave. Just as an FYI it's impossible to find a video well I couldn't find one on YouTube where someone has a view like I have in this video to see exactly what's going on with all the spindles and pulleys and belts and what not I think this might be the first one but if someone has one they posted or know about I'd like to see it.

Jim


#91

F

Forest#2

JimP2014:

Using JB Weld and Duct tape on a Craftsman.
You might be overqualified as a design engineer for Craftsman and Murray.

Here is a video of a guy that has some good tips when working on lawn tractor decks.
Watch the video in post #12


#92

J

JimP2014

Forest#2 said:
JimP2014:

Using JB Weld and Duct tape on a Craftsman.
You might be overqualified as a design engineer for Craftsman and Murray.

Here is a video of a guy that has some good tips when working on lawn tractor decks.
Watch the video in post #12
Click to expand...
Forest thank you very much for the video I got through 6 minutes of it the guys like he could have courses on this stuff it's so thorough but it's 23 minutes long I do realize that the the only thing I could do other than you know replacing the deck is to use the JB weld and so far that's worked out okay but I was always wondering about the keyway + so what happens is you hit something your blade stops and then the keyway breaks and prevents the engine from destroying okay great how come they don't put the key way and the the breakaway what you need on the mower deck somehow why do you have to start messing with the engine because of a blade that hit a rock that makes no sense to me I would put the break point someplace on the mower deck but definitely it's before the drive shaft in my case would be vertical drive shell this is puzzling but so far getting back to that JB weld it has worked I didn't an extreme amount of it also it's a brand new carriage bolt. So the mower deck never had any Wheels and I added them mainly to stabilize the deck yeah it's kind of tilted in one way and you know it's another frustrating part about design for me but thanks for the URL and I'm getting the points points that are relevant for me out of it so far.

Jim


#93

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Forest thank you very much for the video I got through 6 minutes of it the guys like he could have courses on this stuff it's so thorough but it's 23 minutes long I do realize that the the only thing I could do other than you know replacing the deck is to use the JB weld and so far that's worked out okay but I was always wondering about the keyway + so what happens is you hit something your blade stops and then the keyway breaks and prevents the engine from destroying okay great how come they don't put the key way and the the breakaway what you need on the mower deck somehow why do you have to start messing with the engine because of a blade that hit a rock that makes no sense to me I would put the break point someplace on the mower deck but definitely it's before the drive shaft in my case would be vertical drive shell this is puzzling but so far getting back to that JB weld it has worked I didn't an extreme amount of it also it's a brand new carriage bolt. So the mower deck never had any Wheels and I added them mainly to stabilize the deck yeah it's kind of tilted in one way and you know it's another frustrating part about design for me but thanks for the URL and I'm getting the points points that are relevant for me out of it so far.

Jim
Click to expand...
I plan on watching all 23 minutes Tomorrow


#94

J

JimP2014

But one thing I don't know if this can be done but this website they have a poll for deck height in other words on this machine Craftsman lc2000 you have a range from 1 one the lowest setting up to six the highest setting so normally for me anyways I cut the lawn in position 5 + that should be the optimize position for the mower deck pulleys belts all that stuff I don't know how you would conduct such a poll. Maybe something like the setting you use to cut the lawn what is the percentage of time you use that setting and for me the answer is 100%.

Or how often do you switch heights on the mower deck to cut your lawn or a lawn and for me the answer is 0% of the time.

Jim


#95

S

SeniorCitizen

That mower wasn't built to mow 5" . None that I know of built like a Craftsman 2000 are . Re-Engineer it by disconnecting all of the height adjustment mechanicals and change what ever is stopping upward movement . ie - if metal in the way remove it . If a lift arm etc. is too short lengthen it or disconnect all and weld it to the frame at your desired height .


#96

J

JimP2014

SeniorCitizen said:
That mower wasn't built to mow 5" . None that I know of built like a Craftsman 2000 are . Re-Engineer it by disconnecting all of the height adjustment mechanicals and change what ever is stopping upward movement . ie - if metal in the way remove it . If a lift arm etc. is too short lengthen it or disconnect all and weld it to the frame at your desired height .
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for your reply here's what I can tell you on setting one I'm cutting 2 in into the dirt . On setting 2 , I'm scraping the topsoil. I On setting three I'm scalping the lawn the tires are filled with the appropriate amount of air and I looked this up several years ago like how do you raise everything up and if you do a search you'll find many people have the same problem and the best solution of that is make sure your tires are filled with the correct amount of air

But I do understand what you're saying I just don't understand why there's like a disconnect between people who make this stuff and people and I mean consumers who have lawns not commercial folks that need all kinds of different things going on so for the consumer line they don't change things up to make it easier for the people they're selling it to!
Jim


#97

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Thank you so much for your reply here's what I can tell you on setting one I'm cutting 2 in into the dirt . On setting 2 , I'm scraping the topsoil. I On setting three I'm scalping the lawn the tires are filled with the appropriate amount of air and I looked this up several years ago like how do you raise everything up and if you do a search you'll find many people have the same problem and the best solution of that is make sure your tires are filled with the correct amount of air

But I do understand what you're saying I just don't understand why there's like a disconnect between people who make this stuff and people and I mean consumers who have lawns not commercial folks that need all kinds of different things going on so for the consumer line they don't change things up to make it easier for the people they're selling it to!
Jim
Click to expand...
Wait hold up you got what I meant incorrect I didn't mean 5 in I meant setting five it's just a number on the side of the machine it translates into maybe 2 in or 3 in I apologize if that wasn't clear I don't mean 5 in height to cut the grass.

This Craftsman LT 2000 has a numerical guide on the height adjustment and mine goes from setting one one to setting 6.

Jim


#98

J

JimP2014

SeniorCitizen said:
That mower wasn't built to mow 5" . None that I know of built like a Craftsman 2000 are . Re-Engineer it by disconnecting all of the height adjustment mechanicals and change what ever is stopping upward movement . ie - if metal in the way remove it . If a lift arm etc. is too short lengthen it or disconnect all and weld it to the frame at your desired height .
Click to expand...
I did reread this, and the actual frame is blocking it. I often wondered about switching wheel/tire (s) to larger ones? Or maybe keep the wheels and get larger tires?
Forest#2 said:
JimP2014:

Using JB Weld and Duct tape on a Craftsman.
You might be overqualified as a design engineer for Craftsman and Murray.

Here is a video of a guy that has some good tips when working on lawn tractor decks.
Watch the video in post #12
Click to expand...
I watched all of the video just now. One thing I did notice even with Cub Cadet is the belt can get an angle ( not the best thing ) coming from the drive shaft pulley and then back to the mower deck pulleys. I have thought about somehow making that bottom pulley on the driveshaft adjustable height ( and also have a keyway here ) so that the belt is always ( as much as possible ) in the same plane with the deck pulleys. For me this would always work since I rarely change deck heights. meaning the same plane will pretty much always be the case.


#99

J

JimP2014

JimP2014 said:
Forest thank you very much for the video I got through 6 minutes of it the guys like he could have courses on this stuff it's so thorough but it's 23 minutes long I do realize that the the only thing I could do other than you know replacing the deck is to use the JB weld and so far that's worked out okay but I was always wondering about the keyway + so what happens is you hit something your blade stops and then the keyway breaks and prevents the engine from destroying okay great how come they don't put the key way and the the breakaway what you need on the mower deck somehow why do you have to start messing with the engine because of a blade that hit a rock that makes no sense to me I would put the break point someplace on the mower deck but definitely it's before the drive shaft in my case would be vertical drive shell this is puzzling but so far getting back to that JB weld it has worked I didn't an extreme amount of it also it's a brand new carriage bolt. So the mower deck never had any Wheels and I added them mainly to stabilize the deck yeah it's kind of tilted in one way and you know it's another frustrating part about design for me but thanks for the URL and I'm getting the points points that are relevant for me out of it so far.

Jim
Click to expand...
"Using JB Weld and Duct tape on a Craftsman.
You might be overqualified as a design engineer for Craftsman and Murray.".

Forest maybe you picked up on my level of frustration with why I have to even mess with this stuff so I figured duct tape is good enough if it can't fix it why put more effort into it.

But the more I thought about the problem it's actually a good mix for consumers who just want to cut their lawn and folks in the business of repairing lawn equipment. I don't know I'm not in that business but if I was a manufacturer I would have stuff the kind of breaks now and then keep folks who do repair this stuff in business I have nothing against that at all. And where I live many of those folks have gone out of business for one reason or another. And not all consumer products like riding mowers are owned by people that have a flatbed or a trailer or whatever or a truck.

I mean from what I've seen with this mower deck and I've spent 2 months messing around with it off and on the deck itself should just be a shell nothing else on it all these mounts that have holes and square holes and all that other stuff should be bolted this mower deck and from there it's something like a square hole turns into a circular hole you could just replace that part plus a few bolts and nuts to have that piece welded maybe that caters to people in the business. Or even better you have to buy a brand new deck that has the part with the square hole in it I have no idea I'm just looking at it from a consumer point of view.

Jim


Footer Links 1

Top