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Stihl MS 250 Chain Saw Problems

#1

P

platefire

I've had this one 7 years with no problems until recently when it wouldn't crank. I tried all my little tricks with draining old fuel and
putting in fresh fuel and checking spark which appeared no spark. Took it to a authorized Stihl dealer. They replaced the ignition
module for $130 and it ran fine to cut up one tree limb that had fallen. Took it out today to cut up another limb and it's doing the same thing
as before, not even a hint of wanting to crank. I checked the spark and could see a very faint spark but it was a spark! Right now
I'm pretty aggravated. He said to bring it back if I had any problems, don't know what that means! another $130??? After while
it starts approaching the cost of a new saw. My last Stihl lasted 30 years, so I was kinda hoping it would be a repeat


#2

R

Rivets

Before bad mouthing anything, take it back and have the mechanic take a look at it. At a good repair shop and in a reasonable time periID, most good shops will replace a defective part under warranty. Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve run into defective parts.


#3

P

platefire

I've had it back about a week. Most likely I will take it back tomorrow.

Just wondering?? I was pricing ignition modules on the net and there were cheap modules from $10 to $30 and the
Stihl was $75. Wonder how the quality of the cheap ones stack up against the Stihl?


#4

M

MParr

Is it losing prime? Have the fuel lines, fuel tank grommet, and primer bulb been replaced?
Has the spark arrestor screen been cleaned?
Was a new spark plug installed?
I'm willing to bet that the shop didn't do a thorough evaluation.
Aftermarket ignition modules aren't the best.


#5

P

platefire

No it's all original except the new ignition module. Believe it or not, it has no primer bulb. Same plug.


#6

P

platefire

Well I took it back to the Stihl Shop today. Told him it just wasn't cranking. He ask me if I had tried to crank it today. I said no. He picked it up
and pulled the crank cord about 25 times in quick succession and it finally fired and ran good. He said it was just flooded and you have to pull
it like that to clear it out. I'm not sure in my physical condition I can pull it with that intensity for that long---so I hope it's a little easier to crank
when I go out to cut my limb in a few minuets.


#7

P

platefire

BTW---when I tried it, if fired up on the first pull and I cut my big limb all up. When it stalls again, I'll take it to the Stihl man to give
it the "25 Quick Pulls" to get it going again! Just kidding:>)


#8

R

Rivets

Try this procedure which I use on my Echo. Put the choke on fully closed. Put the rope 2 or 3 times, until you hear it pop. Move choke to 1/2 position and pull the rope until it starts. This procedure eliminates flooding the engine.


#9

P

platefire

Rivets, that is the same procedure in my Stihl MS250 Manual and what I follow most of the time but---when that
don't work? I usually let it sit a while and try that procedure again and it usually fires up. This time none of that
procedure would work for me and it was a reason, the Ignition Module was out and was replaced. I cranked and
ran well for me to do one job last week. Then this week it was acting just like it did when the ignition module
was out----just dead. So I'm glad it's working now because I really like this saw.

On funny note----before I took it to the Stihl Dealer I called a local repairman that I had used years before to get him to work on my saw. The
second I told him it was a Stihl his whole demeanor changed and he was angry! He said I don't work on Stihls and he told me
about the Stihl dealer in town that I didn't know we had--so I appreciate that. I wanted to ask him why he felt that way about
Stihls but by the sound in his voice, I decided to leave it alone:>)


#10

A

Auto Doc's

Not all Stihl dealers are the same and maybe only one individual has past their silver level training for Stihl and never went any further.

Stihl use to really push for dealer tech training, now they seem to shy away and concentrate on volume sales of new units.


#11

P

platefire

My first Stihl Was a 011AV with 16" Bar purchased new in 1986. It finally played out in 2018. So 32 years of good solid trouble free
service is why I went Stihl again. I never had to rely on their service tech because it was always working. I changed the bar and chain a couple of
times, but that's it.


#12

A

Auto Doc's

Hello platefire,

Be aware that the old saws were much more forgiving and had more size and power. The carburetor passages were larger. They also belched more smoke than they do today. EPA regulations have starved many small engines down.

Do yourself a favor, if you have not already, and use No-Ethanol fuel and the Stihl oil. Mix the fuel exactly as instructed in a steel 1-gallon can. No guess work or estimation to the mix, because the carburetor and newer spark plug designs will cause a terrible hard start. The steel (paint thinner) can with a good screw on lid will preserve the mix much longer than any plastic fuel container ever will.

Don't use the old cheap straight weight oil mix methods like we used to years ago. It will cause you much grief.

I have had to pull many mufflers off of chainsaws and weed eaters to heat the red hot to burn out all the oil coking. The wrong oil mix will choke up a modern muffler quickly.

With 2-stroke engines, the basic rule is: "If old burnt carbon exhaust air cannot get out, new fresh air cannot get in to draw the fuel in."

I've had many Stihl dealers "condemned" saws come to me for a second opinion and it was poor fuel mix related about 80% of the time.


#13

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

Rivets, that is the same procedure in my Stihl MS250 Manual and what I follow most of the time but---when that
don't work? I usually let it sit a while and try that procedure again and it usually fires up. This time none of that
procedure would work for me and it was a reason, the Ignition Module was out and was replaced. I cranked and
ran well for me to do one job last week. Then this week it was acting just like it did when the ignition module
was out----just dead. So I'm glad it's working now because I really like this saw.

On funny note----before I took it to the Stihl Dealer I called a local repairman that I had used years before to get him to work on my saw. The
second I told him it was a Stihl his whole demeanor changed and he was angry! He said I don't work on Stihls and he told me
about the Stihl dealer in town that I didn't know we had--so I appreciate that. I wanted to ask him why he felt that way about
Stihls but by the sound in his voice, I decided to leave it alone:>)
I love working on Stihl equipment! Stihl is the most common handheld equipment in my area. My success rate for getting Stihl equipment starting and running well is very high as long as there is good compression.


#14

S

slomo

Sounds like the needle is passing excess fuel possibly. 7 year old carb probably needs a rebuild.


#15

M

MParr

Sounds like the needle is passing excess fuel possibly. 7 year old carb probably needs a rebuild.
Could be.
My old SRM225 is hard to start after running a while and putting it down for a few minutes. I imagine that the diaphragms in the carburetor are perished. I replaced all of the fuel lines last year. I may just buy an OE carburetor and be done with it.


#16

P

platefire

Well I have to confess, have been using regular gas with Lucus mixed in and using other kinds of oil to the 50:1 mix
other than Stihl oil. So I know that's not prime like using non Ethanol gas and Stihl oil mixture


#17

S

slomo

Time to pressure test the carb.
Well I have to confess, have been using regular gas with Lucus mixed in and using other kinds of oil to the 50:1 mix
other than Stihl oil. So I know that's not prime like using non Ethanol gas and Stihl oil mixture
Forget the Lucas.
91 octane E-0 gas if you can buy it and Opti-2 oil.


#18

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Time to pressure test the carb.

Forget the Lucas.
91 octane E-0 gas if you can buy it and Opti-2 oil.
E-0 yes if you can find it but why 91 octane?


#19

M

MJN

I have the same MS250 (around 12 years old) and the same starting problem. Sometimes it starts right up and other times it floods out. When it floods I remove the sparkplug and clean it and then before putting the plug back pull the starter rope 10 or 15 times to get gas up to the carburetor and then follow the starting instructions and it usually starts. Once it starts all is ok and when I shut it down to add fuel etc it usually starts right up. Never had a problem with restarting only the initial start. I have 2 Echo saws with primer bulbs and never a starting problem. I'll never buy another saw without a primer bulb.


#20

R

RevB

I've had it back about a week. Most likely I will take it back tomorrow.

Just wondering?? I was pricing ignition modules on the net and there were cheap modules from $10 to $30 and the
Stihl was $75. Wonder how the quality of the cheap ones stack up against the Stihl?
Those cheap modules can be used to convert an old points and condenser saw to electronic trigger so don't see why they wouldn't work the same as a name brand. I've converted a few old McCollough and they start easier and run just as well.


#21

P

platefire

Hammermech----I'm not familiar with Opti-2 Oil?

MJN-Glad to hear someone with the same saw has had the same problems. I'll include you start tricks in with my own. Agree,
I don't want another 2 cycle type saw without a primer bulb. I didn't realize it didn't have one until I got it home

RevB--Likeswise, I remembers in the 80's converting my push mowers from points to Solid State ignition. I never missed checking
point gaps and filing points one bit


#22

O

outdoorpowermike

7 years is way past the life off the carb pump gasket. Sounds like engine is flooding out because carb gaskets are hard. This condition will flood engine in just a couple pulls. 1st thing to do is a compression test 98-130 psi is good. Next remove muffler a look at piston for scratches or bad piston. Replace with new carb if everything looks good.


#23

P

platefire

7 years is way past the life off the carb pump gasket. Sounds like engine is flooding out because carb gaskets are hard. This condition will flood engine in just a couple pulls. 1st thing to do is a compression test 98-130 psi is good. Next remove muffler a look at piston for scratches or bad piston. Replace with new carb if everything looks good.
Haven't tried to fire it up since that last limb clearing. If it continues to be hard to crank, I'll have to do some tuning up. I've got a lot of trees in
my yard and every time a wind comes up, I have some measure of clean up to do.


#24

R

RevB

Well I took it back to the Stihl Shop today. Told him it just wasn't cranking. He ask me if I had tried to crank it today. I said no. He picked it up
and pulled the crank cord about 25 times in quick succession and it finally fired and ran good. He said it was just flooded and you have to pull
it like that to clear it out. I'm not sure in my physical condition I can pull it with that intensity for that long---so I hope it's a little easier to crank
when I go out to cut my limb in a few minuets.
If it's flooded, simply remove the spark plug and pull it over a few times...then wait. Fuel will evaporate. Install plug, reattempt starting. You don't need to pull it over 25 times in rapid succession.


#25

R

RevB

7 years is way past the life off the carb pump gasket. Sounds like engine is flooding out because carb gaskets are hard. This condition will flood engine in just a couple pulls. 1st thing to do is a compression test 98-130 psi is good. Next remove muffler a look at piston for scratches or bad piston. Replace with new carb if everything looks good.
If the pump gaskets are stiff and inoperable the exact opposite of what you describe will be the condition.


#26

X

XD2200

I've had this one 7 years with no problems until recently when it wouldn't crank. I tried all my little tricks with draining old fuel and
putting in fresh fuel and checking spark which appeared no spark. Took it to a authorized Stihl dealer. They replaced the ignition
module for $130 and it ran fine to cut up one tree limb that had fallen. Took it out today to cut up another limb and it's doing the same thing
as before, not even a hint of wanting to crank. I checked the spark and could see a very faint spark but it was a spark! Right now
I'm pretty aggravated. He said to bring it back if I had any problems, don't know what that means! another $130??? After while
it starts approaching the cost of a new saw. My last Stihl lasted 30 years, so I was kinda hoping it would be a repeat
I have a MS290 and it took 25 pulls to start. Finally tried using Stihl Moto Mix and problem solved.


#27

L

LawnWizard

Rivets, that is the same procedure in my Stihl MS250 Manual and what I follow most of the time but---when that
don't work? I usually let it sit a while and try that procedure again and it usually fires up. This time none of that
procedure would work for me and it was a reason, the Ignition Module was out and was replaced. I cranked and
ran well for me to do one job last week. Then this week it was acting just like it did when the ignition module
was out----just dead. So I'm glad it's working now because I really like this saw.

On funny note----before I took it to the Stihl Dealer I called a local repairman that I had used years before to get him to work on my saw. The
second I told him it was a Stihl his whole demeanor changed and he was angry! He said I don't work on Stihls and he told me
about the Stihl dealer in town that I didn't know we had--so I appreciate that. I wanted to ask him why he felt that way about
Stihls but by the sound in his voice, I decided to leave it alone:>)
My guess is that he won't work on them because after market parts are not readily available. That means he has to go to a dealer, buy the part at retail price, mark it up, then sell it to you. Also, every Stihl saw Ive seen is hard to start if not used nearly every day. Echo offer saws in all price ranges, are easier to start, dollar for dollar as (or more) reliable, AND offer a 5 year warranty on non commercial use. Now the Echo bashing will start, but I've had, and repaired many of them. Easily my favorite saws.


#28

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

This may be a little trivial but did you put a new plug in it after the new ignition coil?
E-0 yes if you can find it but why 91 octane?
my octane is better than your octane


#29

J

Johner

I've had this one 7 years with no problems until recently when it wouldn't crank. I tried all my little tricks with draining old fuel and
putting in fresh fuel and checking spark which appeared no spark. Took it to a authorized Stihl dealer. They replaced the ignition
module for $130 and it ran fine to cut up one tree limb that had fallen. Took it out today to cut up another limb and it's doing the same thing
as before, not even a hint of wanting to crank. I checked the spark and could see a very faint spark but it was a spark! Right now
I'm pretty aggravated. He said to bring it back if I had any problems, don't know what that means! another $130??? After while
it starts approaching the cost of a new saw. My last Stihl lasted 30 years, so I was kinda hoping it would be a repeat
Have you changed the fuel filter? After that long the filter deuterates, then it clog's the very fine screen in the carb. I think mine is an 027 no plastic heavy as a horse. Also changed the tank filter and cleaned that screen and it still runs.


#30

B

BGS Mex

I've had this one 7 years with no problems until recently when it wouldn't crank. I tried all my little tricks with draining old fuel and
putting in fresh fuel and checking spark which appeared no spark. Took it to a authorized Stihl dealer. They replaced the ignition
module for $130 and it ran fine to cut up one tree limb that had fallen. Took it out today to cut up another limb and it's doing the same thing
as before, not even a hint of wanting to crank. I checked the spark and could see a very faint spark but it was a spark! Right now
I'm pretty aggravated. He said to bring it back if I had any problems, don't know what that means! another $130??? After while
it starts approaching the cost of a new saw. My last Stihl lasted 30 years, so I was kinda hoping it would be a repeat
Maybe you should take it back to the folks who installed the ignition Module. Maybe it failed (?) They (I hope) will stand behind their work. Unfortunately in most cases electrical parts aren't warranted. Was it an OEM Piece?


#31

S

Slider99

Is it losing prime? Have the fuel lines, fuel tank grommet, and primer bulb been replaced?
Has the spark arrestor screen been cleaned?
Was a new spark plug installed?
I'm willing to bet that the shop didn't do a thorough evaluation.
Aftermarket ignition modules aren't the best.
These don't have primer bulbs


#32

P

platefire

As previously said, it worked fine last time I used it. I haven't got around to firing it up again. Thanks for everyone's comments.


#33

R

rhkraft

You might try replacing the fuel tank filter. My Stihl was hard starting and once it was running it would fail when I tried to accelerate the engine. A new tank filter fixed everything. Another thing I learned. My Stihl was running good, but after a while it idle and stumble and sometimes quit. I began to notice that it ran well on a full tank of fuel and only ran poorly after about half the fuel was gone. I found a crack in the tank fuel line. When the tank was full, the crack was under the fuel level. But once the crack was exposed to the air, it started sucking air starving the engine for fuel. Another useful tidbit.


#34

P

platefire

This morning I got my Stihl out for a crank test. Pulled 4 times in the full choke position then switched to the half choke position. Pull it about
6 times and it fired up. It ran real strong with quick responsive acceleration. I shut it down before I ever got to the run position. Remember
this saw don't have a prime bulb. So I surmise it could of cranked a little quicker. It still has the original plug, so a new plug might be worth a try
for improvement. Need to switch to Ethanol free gas and drop the Lucus. Maybe I can nurse it back to good health:>)


#35

S

slomo

E-0 yes if you can find it but why 91 octane?
Chainsaws have a ton more compression than say push mowers. Some trimmers like my Commercial Maruyama need a seasoned shoulder to pull over as well.


#36

S

slomo

I'm not familiar with Opti-2 Oil?
It's the best 2 stroke oil on the market. Even has stabilizer in it. Running it for years. Much less smoke and carbon buildup compared to Echo and Stihl oils.

My Maruyama trimmer was bought in 2013. Pulled the muffler. Bore was pristine with zero scratches our gouges. Very very minimal carbon was visible.

1753806242171.png


#37

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Chainsaws have a ton more compression than say push mowers. Some trimmers like my Commercial Maruyama need a seasoned shoulder to pull over as well.
I have 5 chainsaws. 2 of which are running high compression and advanced timing. If you try to start them without using the compression release they break starter pawls. I run regular gas in all of them with zero issues. All the internet mechanics quote the Stihl manual but i am still waiting for someone to show me a saw damaged from preignition from regular gas I put it in the same category as "starting fluid will blow your engine up" crowd. Internet wives tale with no proof.20210206_162104.jpg


#38

S

slomo

200psi comes out to 13.6:1 static compression. That is pretty high. Aluminum block/head helps cool the cylinder.

From the MS 250 manual below. Stihl recommends a minimum 89 or higher octane.

"1753816590242.png


#39

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

200psi comes out to 13.6:1 static compression. That is pretty high. Aluminum block/head helps cool the cylinder.

From the MS 250 manual below. Stihl recommends a minimum 89 or higher octane.

"View attachment 71410
Stihl recommends because it needs it or is that just corporate covering their ass documentation??? I have worked on hundreds of saws over the years and pretty much all running regular gas and i have never seen a saw with preignition damage.


#40

S

slomo

Stihl recommends because it needs it or is that just corporate covering their ass documentation??? I have worked on hundreds of saws over the years and pretty much all running regular gas and i have never seen a saw with preignition damage.
200psi is up there. I would say it needs it. 89 octane is a bare minimum at that.

Just follow the manual. Why risk it?

Would suck running another fuel can just for a saw but, some of those saws ain't cheap.


#41

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

I have 5 chainsaws. 2 of which are running high compression and advanced timing. If you try to start them without using the compression release they break starter pawls. I run regular gas in all of them with zero issues. All the internet mechanics quote the Stihl manual but i am still waiting for someone to show me a saw damaged from preignition from regular gas I put it in the same category as "starting fluid will blow your engine up" crowd. Internet wives tale with no proof.View attachment 71408
I have 9 chainsaws and run 87 octane, 10% ethanol in all of them, including all my other handheld equipment. I realize most people, including my customers, run premium fuel with no ethanol. I guess a part of me does this to be different and to prove that you can. It is not uncommon to be able to simply get equipment running that won’t start from customers, by dumping out their old fuel and putting in my fresh evil corn gas. Handheld 2-stroke equipment loves fresh fuel!


#42

M

mcspeed

My guess is that he won't work on them because after market parts are not readily available. That means he has to go to a dealer, buy the part at retail price, mark it up, then sell it to you. Also, every Stihl saw Ive seen is hard to start if not used nearly every day. Echo offer saws in all price ranges, are easier to start, dollar for dollar as (or more) reliable, AND offer a 5 year warranty on non commercial use. Now the Echo bashing will start, but I've had, and repaired many of them. Easily my favorite saws.
I have a 1985 John Deere chain saw made by Kioritz which was identical to the echo equivalent model at the time. I bought it based on specs….had much higher rpm than Stihl if I remember correctly. Had lower price too. Still use it today and starts 2nd or 3rd pull. Always run Stihl 2 stroke oil in it LOL. Hope I don’t need any parts for it as I doubt any are available.


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