I love working on Stihl equipment! Stihl is the most common handheld equipment in my area. My success rate for getting Stihl equipment starting and running well is very high as long as there is good compression.Rivets, that is the same procedure in my Stihl MS250 Manual and what I follow most of the time but---when that
don't work? I usually let it sit a while and try that procedure again and it usually fires up. This time none of that
procedure would work for me and it was a reason, the Ignition Module was out and was replaced. I cranked and
ran well for me to do one job last week. Then this week it was acting just like it did when the ignition module
was out----just dead. So I'm glad it's working now because I really like this saw.
On funny note----before I took it to the Stihl Dealer I called a local repairman that I had used years before to get him to work on my saw. The
second I told him it was a Stihl his whole demeanor changed and he was angry! He said I don't work on Stihls and he told me
about the Stihl dealer in town that I didn't know we had--so I appreciate that. I wanted to ask him why he felt that way about
Stihls but by the sound in his voice, I decided to leave it alone:>)
Could be.Sounds like the needle is passing excess fuel possibly. 7 year old carb probably needs a rebuild.
Forget the Lucas.Well I have to confess, have been using regular gas with Lucus mixed in and using other kinds of oil to the 50:1 mix
other than Stihl oil. So I know that's not prime like using non Ethanol gas and Stihl oil mixture
E-0 yes if you can find it but why 91 octane?Time to pressure test the carb.
Forget the Lucas.
91 octane E-0 gas if you can buy it and Opti-2 oil.
Those cheap modules can be used to convert an old points and condenser saw to electronic trigger so don't see why they wouldn't work the same as a name brand. I've converted a few old McCollough and they start easier and run just as well.I've had it back about a week. Most likely I will take it back tomorrow.
Just wondering?? I was pricing ignition modules on the net and there were cheap modules from $10 to $30 and the
Stihl was $75. Wonder how the quality of the cheap ones stack up against the Stihl?
Haven't tried to fire it up since that last limb clearing. If it continues to be hard to crank, I'll have to do some tuning up. I've got a lot of trees in7 years is way past the life off the carb pump gasket. Sounds like engine is flooding out because carb gaskets are hard. This condition will flood engine in just a couple pulls. 1st thing to do is a compression test 98-130 psi is good. Next remove muffler a look at piston for scratches or bad piston. Replace with new carb if everything looks good.
If it's flooded, simply remove the spark plug and pull it over a few times...then wait. Fuel will evaporate. Install plug, reattempt starting. You don't need to pull it over 25 times in rapid succession.Well I took it back to the Stihl Shop today. Told him it just wasn't cranking. He ask me if I had tried to crank it today. I said no. He picked it up
and pulled the crank cord about 25 times in quick succession and it finally fired and ran good. He said it was just flooded and you have to pull
it like that to clear it out. I'm not sure in my physical condition I can pull it with that intensity for that long---so I hope it's a little easier to crank
when I go out to cut my limb in a few minuets.
If the pump gaskets are stiff and inoperable the exact opposite of what you describe will be the condition.7 years is way past the life off the carb pump gasket. Sounds like engine is flooding out because carb gaskets are hard. This condition will flood engine in just a couple pulls. 1st thing to do is a compression test 98-130 psi is good. Next remove muffler a look at piston for scratches or bad piston. Replace with new carb if everything looks good.
I have a MS290 and it took 25 pulls to start. Finally tried using Stihl Moto Mix and problem solved.I've had this one 7 years with no problems until recently when it wouldn't crank. I tried all my little tricks with draining old fuel and
putting in fresh fuel and checking spark which appeared no spark. Took it to a authorized Stihl dealer. They replaced the ignition
module for $130 and it ran fine to cut up one tree limb that had fallen. Took it out today to cut up another limb and it's doing the same thing
as before, not even a hint of wanting to crank. I checked the spark and could see a very faint spark but it was a spark! Right now
I'm pretty aggravated. He said to bring it back if I had any problems, don't know what that means! another $130??? After while
it starts approaching the cost of a new saw. My last Stihl lasted 30 years, so I was kinda hoping it would be a repeat
My guess is that he won't work on them because after market parts are not readily available. That means he has to go to a dealer, buy the part at retail price, mark it up, then sell it to you. Also, every Stihl saw Ive seen is hard to start if not used nearly every day. Echo offer saws in all price ranges, are easier to start, dollar for dollar as (or more) reliable, AND offer a 5 year warranty on non commercial use. Now the Echo bashing will start, but I've had, and repaired many of them. Easily my favorite saws.Rivets, that is the same procedure in my Stihl MS250 Manual and what I follow most of the time but---when that
don't work? I usually let it sit a while and try that procedure again and it usually fires up. This time none of that
procedure would work for me and it was a reason, the Ignition Module was out and was replaced. I cranked and
ran well for me to do one job last week. Then this week it was acting just like it did when the ignition module
was out----just dead. So I'm glad it's working now because I really like this saw.
On funny note----before I took it to the Stihl Dealer I called a local repairman that I had used years before to get him to work on my saw. The
second I told him it was a Stihl his whole demeanor changed and he was angry! He said I don't work on Stihls and he told me
about the Stihl dealer in town that I didn't know we had--so I appreciate that. I wanted to ask him why he felt that way about
Stihls but by the sound in his voice, I decided to leave it alone:>)
my octane is better than your octaneE-0 yes if you can find it but why 91 octane?
Have you changed the fuel filter? After that long the filter deuterates, then it clog's the very fine screen in the carb. I think mine is an 027 no plastic heavy as a horse. Also changed the tank filter and cleaned that screen and it still runs.I've had this one 7 years with no problems until recently when it wouldn't crank. I tried all my little tricks with draining old fuel and
putting in fresh fuel and checking spark which appeared no spark. Took it to a authorized Stihl dealer. They replaced the ignition
module for $130 and it ran fine to cut up one tree limb that had fallen. Took it out today to cut up another limb and it's doing the same thing
as before, not even a hint of wanting to crank. I checked the spark and could see a very faint spark but it was a spark! Right now
I'm pretty aggravated. He said to bring it back if I had any problems, don't know what that means! another $130??? After while
it starts approaching the cost of a new saw. My last Stihl lasted 30 years, so I was kinda hoping it would be a repeat
Maybe you should take it back to the folks who installed the ignition Module. Maybe it failed (?) They (I hope) will stand behind their work. Unfortunately in most cases electrical parts aren't warranted. Was it an OEM Piece?I've had this one 7 years with no problems until recently when it wouldn't crank. I tried all my little tricks with draining old fuel and
putting in fresh fuel and checking spark which appeared no spark. Took it to a authorized Stihl dealer. They replaced the ignition
module for $130 and it ran fine to cut up one tree limb that had fallen. Took it out today to cut up another limb and it's doing the same thing
as before, not even a hint of wanting to crank. I checked the spark and could see a very faint spark but it was a spark! Right now
I'm pretty aggravated. He said to bring it back if I had any problems, don't know what that means! another $130??? After while
it starts approaching the cost of a new saw. My last Stihl lasted 30 years, so I was kinda hoping it would be a repeat
These don't have primer bulbsIs it losing prime? Have the fuel lines, fuel tank grommet, and primer bulb been replaced?
Has the spark arrestor screen been cleaned?
Was a new spark plug installed?
I'm willing to bet that the shop didn't do a thorough evaluation.
Aftermarket ignition modules aren't the best.
Chainsaws have a ton more compression than say push mowers. Some trimmers like my Commercial Maruyama need a seasoned shoulder to pull over as well.E-0 yes if you can find it but why 91 octane?
It's the best 2 stroke oil on the market. Even has stabilizer in it. Running it for years. Much less smoke and carbon buildup compared to Echo and Stihl oils.I'm not familiar with Opti-2 Oil?
I have 5 chainsaws. 2 of which are running high compression and advanced timing. If you try to start them without using the compression release they break starter pawls. I run regular gas in all of them with zero issues. All the internet mechanics quote the Stihl manual but i am still waiting for someone to show me a saw damaged from preignition from regular gas I put it in the same category as "starting fluid will blow your engine up" crowd. Internet wives tale with no proof.Chainsaws have a ton more compression than say push mowers. Some trimmers like my Commercial Maruyama need a seasoned shoulder to pull over as well.
Stihl recommends because it needs it or is that just corporate covering their ass documentation??? I have worked on hundreds of saws over the years and pretty much all running regular gas and i have never seen a saw with preignition damage.200psi comes out to 13.6:1 static compression. That is pretty high. Aluminum block/head helps cool the cylinder.
From the MS 250 manual below. Stihl recommends a minimum 89 or higher octane.
"View attachment 71410
200psi is up there. I would say it needs it. 89 octane is a bare minimum at that.Stihl recommends because it needs it or is that just corporate covering their ass documentation??? I have worked on hundreds of saws over the years and pretty much all running regular gas and i have never seen a saw with preignition damage.
I have 9 chainsaws and run 87 octane, 10% ethanol in all of them, including all my other handheld equipment. I realize most people, including my customers, run premium fuel with no ethanol. I guess a part of me does this to be different and to prove that you can. It is not uncommon to be able to simply get equipment running that won’t start from customers, by dumping out their old fuel and putting in my fresh evil corn gas. Handheld 2-stroke equipment loves fresh fuel!I have 5 chainsaws. 2 of which are running high compression and advanced timing. If you try to start them without using the compression release they break starter pawls. I run regular gas in all of them with zero issues. All the internet mechanics quote the Stihl manual but i am still waiting for someone to show me a saw damaged from preignition from regular gas I put it in the same category as "starting fluid will blow your engine up" crowd. Internet wives tale with no proof.View attachment 71408
I have a 1985 John Deere chain saw made by Kioritz which was identical to the echo equivalent model at the time. I bought it based on specs….had much higher rpm than Stihl if I remember correctly. Had lower price too. Still use it today and starts 2nd or 3rd pull. Always run Stihl 2 stroke oil in it LOL. Hope I don’t need any parts for it as I doubt any are available.My guess is that he won't work on them because after market parts are not readily available. That means he has to go to a dealer, buy the part at retail price, mark it up, then sell it to you. Also, every Stihl saw Ive seen is hard to start if not used nearly every day. Echo offer saws in all price ranges, are easier to start, dollar for dollar as (or more) reliable, AND offer a 5 year warranty on non commercial use. Now the Echo bashing will start, but I've had, and repaired many of them. Easily my favorite saws.