I have a 2022 Craftsman T2400 with a Kohler 7000 engine. It has 48 hours on it and I am on my 3rd battery (the tiny batteries from Vietnam). The engine is very difficult to start because it appears as though the battery doesn't have the 'juice' to crank the motor. Is anyone else facing this issue? I had it put in the shop (stayed there for over 2 months) and they said the issue was the battery. It has a new battery (#3) and a new solenoid. The starter itself is fine. I can jump it with a portable jump charger (which would indicate that it is a battery issue) but 3 batteries in 48 hours of operation is just not right. Any suggestions. I thought about adjustments to the valves, so I sent it to the shop ,,, guess that wasn't the issue either. ANY SUGGESTIONS WELCOME. Thanx y'all.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
More options
Export threadI am on the 3rd battery ... both of the replacements match the original part number that came with the mower. The shop tried recharging the battery on the 2nd replacement, but, like the original, it would not hold a charge. Hence the 3rd battery. 200+ CCA 250 pulse CCA. First attempt at starting was okay. Stopped with warm engine and had to try 3 times to restart. BATTERY STILL SHOWS 12.9 VOLTS ... got me scratching my head.
GeneralEclectic
Member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2011
- Threads
- 1
- Messages
- 14
Trace all wiring from the battery, both + and - back to their source. Then check that those connections are clean and tight. You're talking about an AGM sealed battery? Some of those have high internal resistance straight from the factory and would have trouble starting an engine. You can get a serviceable electronic battery tester on AMA for less than $30. This is NOT just a voltmeter. Those are fairly useless when troubleshooting high-current problems like starting. The dedicated tester measures voltage, starting current capability, and internal resistance. That way, you'll know whether the problem is actually the battery and not a problem with the compression release. I'd be suspicious that the shop, from the way they were just throwing batteries at the problem without solving it, actually checked the valve clearances. They have to be set accurately for compression release to work. This is something you can do for yourself with just a few tools. Try it. There are many videos on YT that show how to do it. I recommend James Condon's videos. He's very thorough and shows in detail what he's doing.
Last edited:
Yep ... its good ... but the battery is brand new.Put your volt meter back on the battery terminal and try to start. What does the voltage drop to. If staying above 10.5 then it isn't a battery problem.
I have been looking for a battery with at least 300 CCA, but because of the size of the battery and battery box (under the seat), I cannot locate anything but Lithium Batteries that size. My battery is 5.9"W X 3.5"D X 4.5"H. Power sport batteries are close with 240 CCA but the battery case is really snug now. Cannot alter size very much at all.I always recommend the Minimum CCA for twin cylinder engines is 300-325 CCA. Also check the charging system, if not charging a minimum of 13.6 DCV, you probably found another problem.
This is where I was when I decided to put it in the shop. --- I was concerned about the compression because everything else tracked pretty well, but as a shade tree kinda guy, I wasn't sure I could do what needed to be done so I decided to let the folks that SHOULD know take care of it. I had all of the tools required to make the valve adjustments (basically nothing special) and I studied the procedure on some videos. Seemed pretty simple so I took down an old riding mower (non operational) just to see what I may encounter. I wasn't real confident, and since this is a relatively new mower, I decided to go in the direction of the shop rather than risk screwing it up. Thanks for the tip ... maybe I'll try another repair shop.Trace all wiring from the battery, both + and - back to their source. Then check that those connections are clean and tight. You're talking about an AGM sealed battery? Some of those have high internal resistance straight from the factory and would have trouble starting an engine. You can get a serviceable electronic battery tester on AMA for less than $30. This is NOT just a voltmeter. Those are fairly useless when troubleshooting high-current problems like starting. The dedicated tester measures voltage, starting current capability, and internal resistance. That way, you'll know whether the problem is actually the battery and not a problem with the compression release. I'd be suspicious that the shop, from the way they were just throwing batteries at the problem without solving it, actually checked the valve clearances. They have to be set accurately for compression release to work. This is something you can do for yourself with just a few tools. Try it. There are many videos on YT that show how to do it. I recommend James Condon's videos. He's very thorough and shows in detail what he's doing.
Buy yourself a cheap battery tester. Has saved my time so many times. Once running, please check battery voltage to make certain battery is charging at 13-14VDC . If charging you may have a drain when mower is off draining your battery to 0VDC and killing battery. I would put a Volt meter on amperage to see if you have a drain. Also I assume in winter you charge battery and place in house to stay warm off-season. If you leave connected and cold for 6+ months, then that would kill it. (2 cents) Hope this helps.