Boy, this has turned into a project. I have a bad solenoid and went about removing the old one, but the work area is so tight that i figured it would be easier to remove the starter, reassemble with new solenoid, and reinstall starter. Well, I have the starter loose but am having fits getting it out of the tight area. So, I thought I would remove the engine housing and make things a little easier. I removed the guard on top of the engine, and now am looking at another guard that is secured with 3 flat devices (have no idea what they are called-aren't allen heads). This second guard is the one that actually turns when the engine is running. Anyone know how these 3 things are removed? BTW, this is a 2008 tiger cub
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Starter removal on 19hp kaw
- Thread starter bro mark
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Export threadMad Mackie
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I haven't worked on a 19 Kawi in a while, but on most vertical shaft engines the blower housing (around the flywheel) and some side cooling baffles need to be removed to gain access to the starter motor. Also on some makes of engines, special or modified tools are needed to remove the starter mounting bolts. I have a Tiger Cub with a Briggs 26HP engine and the starter solenoid is very easy to get at. I have determined on mine that the seat switch is the source of cranking problems and I have installed a parallel pushbutton switch that I use periodically. I have replaced the seat switch several times and actually cut one open to see what the problem is and I found an abnormal amount of small dirt particles in it. The dirt particles are from the collection system which I use almost all the time. So if it won't crank, I lift up the seat and push the parallel switch.
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:
Thanks for the input Mackie. I finally got the starter and solenoid removed. Did not have to remove blower housing or any cooling baffles, and no special tools for starter mounting bolts. Solenoid bolts on to the starter mounting housing so it seems to be easier just to pull the whole assembly. The solenoid is tough to get to if you don't. Getting the starter off is no easy task either, but it will come off. Putting it back on is something I am not looking forward to.
Mad Mackie
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I'm not familiar with the 19 Kawi in a Tiger Cub, just glanced at one a while back. But the seat switches tend to be problematic due to their position and can give a false impression of a bad starter motor. Local Scag dealer has clear plastic containers of the high replacement small parts on the counter in the parts dept, one is filled with seat switches. Solenoids are on the counter also but on a small rotating rack.
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:
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I'll certainly check the seat switch-didn't think of that before you mentioned it. I hope it is not the solenoid-dang thing goes for $165 at the shop where I bought the skag. I'm going to clean all the connections up and check the seat switch, and put it all back together. Hopefully it works.
Mad Mackie
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The seat switch along with the two control lever switches, and the parking brake switch all work together and have a dual purpose that is coordinated by the ECM, electronic control module.
Initially, cranking of the engine will not happen unless all switches are in the correct position and the seat switch has been actuated by the operator being on the seat. Conversely, a running engine will stop when the operator leaves the seat unless the control levers have been positioned outward fully and the parking brake has been engaged.
The vertical position of the seat switch puts it in a spot where it gets dust down into it. When the dust accumulation is too much, then cranking becomes intermittent as the dust affects the electrical contacts in the switch. Many other makes also have this same problem.
I have added ground bonding cables to my Tiger Cub from the negative battery terminal to a frame grounding point and from a vacant bolt hole on the engine to another frame ground. If you add bonding cable to your engine make sure that the bolt is not too long to where it will brake a hole into the crankcase when tightened. There are usually several unused bolt holes on an engine but check to see if the threads are metric or SAE, usually metric but not always.
I keep a spare seat switch in my parts stash, but I also have installed a switch in parallel to the seat switch that when needed I must get off the machine, raise the seat, and actuate the switch manually to get the engine to crank for starting.
I have also cleaned every electrical connection on the machine as they are subject to corrosion and dirt. Disconnect the battery first if you decide to clean the connectors.
The wiring diagram for my Tiger Cub model is incomplete as it doesn't show where the battery power is connected into the system and doesn't show where the charging system is connected. I have written to Scag about this but have not as yet heard back from them. There is no diagram for the ECM but this is normal as it probably is a proprietary item, but the ECM manages all the low current electrical system by reducing the number of switches needed in the system and without it nothing electrically happens.
Batteries on these machines are also subjected to lots of vibration and sometimes internally can break down. I periodically put a 2 amp charger on all my batterys and this helps them live longer, but usually don't get more than 4 years out of them. The electric clutches on these machines draw 4-5 AMPS when engaged so having a battery and charging system fully functioning is a good thing!!
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:
Initially, cranking of the engine will not happen unless all switches are in the correct position and the seat switch has been actuated by the operator being on the seat. Conversely, a running engine will stop when the operator leaves the seat unless the control levers have been positioned outward fully and the parking brake has been engaged.
The vertical position of the seat switch puts it in a spot where it gets dust down into it. When the dust accumulation is too much, then cranking becomes intermittent as the dust affects the electrical contacts in the switch. Many other makes also have this same problem.
I have added ground bonding cables to my Tiger Cub from the negative battery terminal to a frame grounding point and from a vacant bolt hole on the engine to another frame ground. If you add bonding cable to your engine make sure that the bolt is not too long to where it will brake a hole into the crankcase when tightened. There are usually several unused bolt holes on an engine but check to see if the threads are metric or SAE, usually metric but not always.
I keep a spare seat switch in my parts stash, but I also have installed a switch in parallel to the seat switch that when needed I must get off the machine, raise the seat, and actuate the switch manually to get the engine to crank for starting.
I have also cleaned every electrical connection on the machine as they are subject to corrosion and dirt. Disconnect the battery first if you decide to clean the connectors.
The wiring diagram for my Tiger Cub model is incomplete as it doesn't show where the battery power is connected into the system and doesn't show where the charging system is connected. I have written to Scag about this but have not as yet heard back from them. There is no diagram for the ECM but this is normal as it probably is a proprietary item, but the ECM manages all the low current electrical system by reducing the number of switches needed in the system and without it nothing electrically happens.
Batteries on these machines are also subjected to lots of vibration and sometimes internally can break down. I periodically put a 2 amp charger on all my batterys and this helps them live longer, but usually don't get more than 4 years out of them. The electric clutches on these machines draw 4-5 AMPS when engaged so having a battery and charging system fully functioning is a good thing!!
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing: