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I had to replace the bearings in my deck spindle does anyone know the torque spec for the spindle nut on top of the pulley? It is a ys4500 with the 54" deck if that helps any..

Anyone have any guess on this question?:smile:

wjjones said:

Anyone have any guess on this question?:smile:

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30 lbs/ft.?

As tight as you can get it without it causing problerms with the spindle turning,

Duffer72 said:

As tight as you can get it without it causing problerms with the spindle turning,

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Thats what the guy at the parts store said but when i did it snapped the end off the spindle threads and all.. I have always tightned them this way before but for some reason this one broke. It makes me wonder if they have changed the material to something with less strength that requires a different torque rating..

What are you using to tighten them ???:confused2: if there is a lock nut or a lock washer under the nut hand tighted with a good size wrench or ratchet handle should be enough, I normally use a 3/8 drive impact wrench, I have never snapped one off,

Wjjones: "Thats what the guy at the parts store said but when i did it snapped the end off the spindle threads and all.. I have always tightned them this way before but for some reason this one broke. It makes me wonder if they have changed the material to something with less strength that requires a different torque rating.. "

Funny you mention that- one time on my 99 pickup i was tightening the lug nuts - i snapped the dang wheel stud right off - all the years of tightening wheels - not even on my rusty old 75 LTD or 89 F150 did i have that happen - couldve been a faulty or weak metal.

Do you still have the broken mandrel? Id contact sears about it and file a complaint about the replacement mandrel.

Dangeroustoys56 said:

Wjjones: "Thats what the guy at the parts store said but when i did it snapped the end off the spindle threads and all.. I have always tightned them this way before but for some reason this one broke. It makes me wonder if they have changed the material to something with less strength that requires a different torque rating.. "

Funny you mention that- one time on my 99 pickup i was tightening the lug nuts - i snapped the dang wheel stud right off - all the years of tightening wheels - not even on my rusty old 75 LTD or 89 F150 did i have that happen - couldve been a faulty or weak metal.

Do you still have the broken mandrel? Id contact sears about it and file a complaint about the replacement mandrel.

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Or maybe we need to lay off the wheaties, vitamins, and milk for awhile...:laughing:....:laughing:..

I had to replace the mandrel ( just the bering housing - the spindle part was original) on my '90 murray the other day - the bottom blade holder nut was a bear getting off ( have to to keep blade from spinning) - had to remove pulley- that nut was also a serious pain to remove .

When i put it all back together, I didnt spare any strength puttin em back on - i cranked the heck out of em, because i also had to draw the piece on the bottom in - it didnt break on me - that was a factory mandrel from 1990 that i replaced.

I bet your first mandrel was made in china - cheep crap.....

Dangeroustoys56 said:

I had to replace the mandrel ( just the bering housing - the spindle part was original) on my '90 murray the other day - the bottom blade holder nut was a bear getting off ( have to to keep blade from spinning) - had to remove pulley- that nut was also a serious pain to remove .

When i put it all back together, I didnt spare any strength puttin em back on - i cranked the heck out of em, because i also had to draw the piece on the bottom in - it didnt break on me - that was a factory mandrel from 1990 that i replaced.

I bet your first mandrel was made in china - cheep crap.....

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Yeah that, and i think it may have been cracked from putting it on before with the impact wrench. I used my torque wrench, and cranked them down to 150 ft lbs they seem to be pretty snugg for now..

just happend to see that on a sears web page (shop your way) it said 65 lbs torque hope that helps

The blade holding nut torque specification for the D160 is 65 ft-lbs (according to the manual). Since the sheave pulley is at the opposite end of that spindle, I would say that it is also 65 ft-lbs, BUT I only tighten mine to 50 ft-lbs since the portion of the spindle at that end is somewhat smaller than at the blade end and it is easy to check for looseness before operation. I tighten the four self-tapping screws that hold the spindle to the cutter deck to 23 ft-lbs. (because the 8 x 1.25 10mm screws are only rated for 24 ft-lbs of torque according to the metric torque charts). So far so good. I've been operating this mower weekly for the past 4 years. It has 284 hours on it as of yesterday.

wjjones said:

I had to replace the bearings in my deck spindle does anyone know the torque spec for the spindle nut on top of the pulley? It is a ys4500 with the 54" deck if that helps any..

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I Did 30 Ft. Lbs.
You can check what the other spindle nuts are and go by that

use this chart

Spindle on my wifes 2006 YS4500 with 42" deck has never been off till today. I checked torque on both sides before I started because I cant locate the pulley nut spec anywhere online? Both sides took about 110lb before the nut finally broke loose. They're on pretty tight Id say.
I found so many different posts saying from 55 to 150lbs with no info showing if its AYP recommendation or simply their guess so no wonder people have their nut back off stripping the pulley. I saw 55lb a lot which is just half what Im getting. I saw a crapsman youtube vid from a parts supplier just showing an impact on everything including pulley nut & blade bolt. He never used a torque wrench nor stated any torque ratings at all.
Now I wouldn't recommend doing that since impacts vary so much. My IR impact runs 450lb forward & 650lb reverse. Cant remember what low/mid spec is on it but I can turn it down. Still wouldn't impact a blade on and call it a day after seeing what happens by doing it.

If people would only read their owners manual.

StarTech said:

If people would only read their owners manual.
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Reviewing the manual is too easy....like cheating !!!

Cusser said:

Reviewing the manual is too easy....like cheating !!!

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I know as most put File 13 as soon they touch it. I used to trained office workers on new equipment. I would intentionally stumble through the training session just to get them find the answer in the manual. Many times they had to get it out the File 13 with the coffee grounds all over it.

StarTech said:

If people would only read their owners manual.
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Wish mine came with a manual, (actually, neither of them came with one. Had to download it)

reported

Keljan11 said:

Wish mine came with a manual, (actually, neither of them came with one. Had to download it)

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Whenever I buy anything, I also download the manual in PDF form; that way I know immediately where it is, and the PDF manual doesn't get dirty, ever !!!!