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Spindle Bearings

#1

B

BrentW

I have a Tiger Cat 2 61 in that has gone through way to many spindle assembly's. It has 450 hrs and has already gone through the factory set and now a aftermarket set. I use good red grease and still burn through them. I mow all summer and mulch lots of leaves in the winter and am tired of replacing spindles. Any advice would be appreciated.


#2

A

Auto Doc's

Hi BrentW,

My guess is that you are pumping grease into a spindle housing with sealed bearings. It is a cruel engineering joke for many of the parts manufacturers to install fittings that do no good to grease.

Take one of your old spindles apart and wipe all the excess grease off and then look at the top and bottom bearings. They will likely have seals on both the inside and outside portion of the bearings. That means they are "sealed" bearings.

What many folks do (that now know this) is remove the inner seal (only) so when the spindle is greased at the fitting on the side of the housing, the grease can actually make it to the bearing rollers where it is needed.

Hope this helps you.


#3

B

BrentW

These are tapered roller bearings with a press in race and a seal on each end of the housing. I have pressed one apart and started to rebuild it but the assembly’s were almost as cheap as the bearing kits.


#4

G

GrumpyCat

BrentW said:
These are tapered roller bearings with a press in race and a seal on each end of the housing. I have pressed one apart and started to rebuild it but the assembly’s were almost as cheap as the bearing kits.
Click to expand...
Bearings come in standard sizes. Buy a set of quality bearings and don't over tighten.


#5

B

BrentW

I will give that a try. Thanks!


#6

A

Auto Doc's

Hi BrentW,

Does the center spindle shaft have a spacer pipe to make sure the tapered roller bearings are not bottomed out in the races and over tightened, it should. If tapered roller bearings are too tight of a fit, the grease will not get in to lube them properly.

In my humble opinion it is worth the trouble to have all the parts laid out and then pack grease in (and rotate while packing) all taper bearings by hand before install to make sure enough grease get to the inner race of the bearing itself. That step makes a huge difference in the life of the bearings.

Pre-assembled units do not come prepacked by hand and simply pumping grease in will take hours of run time to heat up before the grease moves enough to get where it is needed most. This excess heat creates initial damage and shortens the life of the bearings and races.


#7

A

Auto Doc's

Hi BrentW,

Does the center spindle shaft have a spacer pipe to make sure the tapered roller bearings are not bottomed out in the races and over tightened, it should. If tapered roller bearings are too tight of a fit, the grease will not get in to lube them properly.

In my humble opinion it is worth the trouble to have all the parts laid out and then pack grease in (and rotate while packing) all taper bearings by hand before install to make sure enough grease get to the inner race of the bearing itself. That step makes a huge difference in the life of the bearings.

Pre-assembled units do not come prepacked by hand and simply pumping grease into them will take hours of run time to heat up before the grease moves enough to get where it is needed most. This excess heat creates initial damage and shortens the life of the bearings and races.


#8

B

BrentW

I tried that today and will watch them close for wear. Thanks


#9

F

Forest#2

Auto Doc's is right on about the center spacer so the tapered bearings will not have too much pre-load when all it tight. (the shaft should not turn too tight nor too loose when the pulleys and blades are installed. If too tight the preload is too much and the bearing will overheat. Look at the definition of Timken bearings pre-load to get the idea. China clone parts is not a good thing either.


#10

S

slomo

BrentW said:
I use good red grease
Click to expand...
Do you know what the red grease is for? It is a "sticky" version of grease. Red = sticky. As in it doesn't flow. As in it doesn't move. As in once wiped away, there is no lubrication. Worst grease on the market.

What you need is the light brown/cream colored old school #2 NGLI bearing grease. Or the black moly flavor. Blue is water resistant for boats.


#11

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

slomo said:
Do you know what the red grease is for? It is a "sticky" version of grease. Red = sticky. As in it doesn't flow. As in it doesn't move. As in once wiped away, there is no lubrication. Worst grease on the market.

What you need is the light brown/cream colored old school #2 NGLI bearing grease. Or the black moly flavor. Blue is water resistant for boats.
Click to expand...
Red and tacky is a #2 NGLI grease. And is recommended for high speed and wheel bearings.


#12

B

BrentW

I have been given mixed signals on the right grease to use. I guess I need to order the stuff that Scag recommends in the manual.


#13

B

BrentW

What would be the best grease to use? I am on vacation and can’t get to the manual from Scag. Seems like I couldn’t find the recommended grease when got the mower.


#14

M

MParr

BrentW said:
What would be the best grease to use? I am on vacation and can’t get to the manual from Scag. Seems like I couldn’t find the recommended grease when got the mower.
Click to expand...
www.valvolineglobal.com

Cerulean Grease - Valvoline™ Global

Uniquely formulated to meet the stressful demands in numerous fleet, agricultural, mining, industrial and automotive applications where maximum performance is...
www.valvolineglobal.com www.valvolineglobal.com
www.valvolineglobal.com

Extreme Red Grease - Valvoline™ Global

Formulated to meet the latest in performance specs, Extreme Red grease combines the requirements of HPM (High Performance Multiuse) Core, with GC-LB, creating a...
www.valvolineglobal.com www.valvolineglobal.com


#15

B

BrentW

I have the Valvoline Extreme Red in a new dedicated gun just for the spindles. This is the third set of bearings in less than 500 hours service. I am gonna hand pack all the new bearings first and time will tell. None of my bearings have ever failed to the point of seizing up but they had excessive play and noise.


#16

A

Auto Doc's

BrentW said:
I have the Valvoline Extreme Red in a new dedicated gun just for the spindles. This is the third set of bearings in less than 500 hours service. I am gonna hand pack all the new bearings first and time will tell. None of my bearings have ever failed to the point of seizing up but they had excessive play and noise.
Click to expand...
Hi BrentW,

I think that would be a wise move. When you open the new spindle assemblies up, you might be surprised.

Pre-assembled spindles typically come with a minimal amount of grease in the bearings, and I highly doubt they are truly packed with any concern toward longevity.


#17

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

slomo said:
Do you know what the red grease is for? It is a "sticky" version of grease. Red = sticky. As in it doesn't flow. As in it doesn't move. As in once wiped away, there is no lubrication. Worst grease on the market.

What you need is the light brown/cream colored old school #2 NGLI bearing grease. Or the black moly flavor. Blue is water resistant for boats.
Click to expand...
Red and tacky is all I use and buy it by the case. If it were so bad (slomo) how do they sell so much of it? Ha ha 2x


#18

G

gerryg11

https://tinyurl.com/3738j5p9 Mobil 28 is red and Aerospace quality with excellent temp range. Used it a million years ago as a bench tech in an OEM MRO facility for fuel condition actuators for JT9 engine platform 747s.


#19

B

BTBO

slomo said:
Do you know what the red grease is for? It is a "sticky" version of grease. Red = sticky. As in it doesn't flow. As in it doesn't move. As in once wiped away, there is no lubrication. Worst grease on the market.

What you need is the light brown/cream colored old school #2 NGLI bearing grease. Or the black moly flavor. Blue is water resistant for boats.
Click to expand...
I use Lucas "Red N Tacky" grease for the 8 zerk lube points on my Liberty Z. It seems to work well for that application.


#20

S

slomo

BTBO said:
I use Lucas "Red N Tacky" grease for the 8 zerk lube points on my Liberty Z. It seems to work well for that application.
Click to expand...
All NGLI #2 greases are tacky. Not like Lucas doesn't ever move once coated. Nothing but a sales gimmick. Lucas doesn't make one product that stands above any other similar product. Use what you like.


#21

A

Auto Doc's

Armchair theories are good for morning coffee meetings. When it comes to reality, study the published data.

NLGI consistency number - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org


#22

B

BrentW

I am learning a lot more about greases through this thread.


#23

S

slomo

Tiger Small Engine said:
Red and tacky is all I use and buy it by the case. If it were so bad (slomo) how do they sell so much of it? Ha ha 2x
Click to expand...
You are the first I've heard that buy it. LOL

Would love someone to show some real testing that proves any Lucas product is better than say wallymart SuperTech grease. Most of it is hype and sales gimmicks. Not just Lucas products either.

What I miss is the old days when you greased driveshafts and front end parts. I, and I know the rest of you old timers, had grease all over yourself LOL. My grease gun today is a filthy EPA slime BIO hazard LOL.


#24

A

Auto Doc's

I think some people are just brand loyal because it has proven through the years to be a reliable product they can trust.

I've never met a technician yet who does not know the products they use well and why they are their favorite. Some are learned since youth while others are proven through many years of trial and error.


#25

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

slomo said:
You are the first I've heard that buy it. LOL

Would love someone to show some real testing that proves any Lucas product is better than say wallymart SuperTech grease. Most of it is hype and sales gimmicks. Not just Lucas products either.

What I miss is the old days when you greased driveshafts and front end parts. I, and I know the rest of you old timers, had grease all over yourself LOL. My grease gun today is a filthy EPA slime BIO hazard LOL.
Click to expand...
Here is Project Farms comparison between Supertech and Lucas Red n Tacky


Just got 3 cases of Lucas Red n Tacky delivered today.


#26

S

slomo

The heat test was at 191C or 375F. Way hotter than any real world usage. If your bearings are running close to 400F, you got other problems than grease. Is the ST grease even rated that high for temp? I see 300F for ST grease. Lucas I see rated at over 500+F. Lucas is just higher temp rated.

Notice at near 400F, the super extra deluxe tacky red Lucas wonder grease never moved at all. Meaning poor lubrication after one rotation of a bearing or one wiping away of lube. Shows again what I was talking about.

Snapper uses a lower viscosity 00 grade to flow lube around the chain case and rear diff.


#27

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

slomo said:
The heat test was at 191C or 375F. Way hotter than any real world usage. If your bearings are running close to 400F, you got other problems than grease. Is the ST grease even rated that high for temp? I see 300F for ST grease. Lucas I see rated at over 500+F. Lucas is just higher temp rated.

Notice at near 400F, the super extra deluxe tacky red Lucas wonder grease never moved at all. Meaning poor lubrication after one rotation of a bearing or one wiping away of lube. Shows again what I was talking about.
Click to expand...
You are looking at it like since the Lucas didn't move it isn't providing lubrication. I see it as the Supertech is no longer lubing because tt has broken down and has been flung out of the bearing. But you are also dismissing that the Lucas had a smaller wear scar, higher resistance to water, lower resistance in rotational force during cold than the Supertech.

I am not saying that the Supertech is a bad grease, and could be adequate for your applications, But for my overall use the Supertech doesn't meet my operational requirements. If I want to repack my wheel bearings the Supertech doesn't meet the temp requirements unless I go to the red Supertech grease.

A few years ago I did use the normal general purpose grease, due to changes in applications had to upgrade to using red grease.
And last year due to another change in operations had to add urea based green grease to the circle. And the green is not compatible with red or general lithium based grease.

But since the new red n tacky is calcium sulfonate thickened and not lithium soap based things could change.


#28

S

slomo

ILENGINE said:
You are looking at it like since the Lucas didn't move it isn't providing lubrication. I see it as the Supertech is no longer lubing because tt has broken down and has been flung out of the bearing. But you are also dismissing that the Lucas had a smaller wear scar, higher resistance to water, lower resistance in rotational force during cold than the Supertech.

I am not saying that the Supertech is a bad grease, and could be adequate for your applications, But for my overall use the Supertech doesn't meet my operational requirements. If I want to repack my wheel bearings the Supertech doesn't meet the temp requirements unless I go to the red Supertech grease.

A few years ago I did use the normal general purpose grease, due to changes in applications had to upgrade to using red grease.
And last year due to another change in operations had to add urea based green grease to the circle. And the green is not compatible with red or general lithium based grease.

But since the new red n tacky is calcium sulfonate thickened and not lithium soap based things could change.
Click to expand...
Lucas red is all thickeners. Hardly any oil dropped out at 400F in the video. Thickeners do not lubricate. All they do is thicken.

So you are saying back in the day, you saw failed grease? Now you need a higher temp grease? I can see this in a turbine engine (high revs) but a lawn mower? High temps in spindle bearings at a whopping 3500rpm? Probably faster do to some pulley sizing.

Do you have mower bearings running at 400+F? Truck/car bearings turn super slow. Only reason for the heat requirement is the brake systems. Way different than a mower.

Someone needs to get a FLIR cam and shoot it at some deck bearings. Curious minds want to know. :)


#29

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

slomo said:
So you are saying back in the day, you saw failed grease? Now you need a higher temp grease? I can see this in a turbine engine (high revs) but a lawn mower? High temps in spindle bearings at a whopping 3500rpm? Probably faster do to some pulley sizing.

Do you have mower bearings running at 400+F? Truck/car bearings turn super slow. Only reason for the heat requirement is the brake systems. Way different than a mower.
Click to expand...
I have seen several cases of grease failure over the years. A couple of those cases was Valvoline synthetic wheel bearing grease. Your trailers don't have brakes and greasable hubs. My trailer has 21 grease zerks. Or how about repacking the wheel bearings on your own vehicles with disc brakes. Can't use general purpose grease on disc brakes systems. Not high enough temperature rating.

I work on some of my own equipment that is not OPE related


#30

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

ILENGINE said:
I have seen several cases of grease failure over the years. A couple of those cases was Valvoline synthetic wheel bearing grease. Your trailers don't have brakes and greasable hubs. My trailer has 21 grease zerks. Or how about repacking the wheel bearings on your own vehicles with disc brakes. Can't use general purpose grease on disc brakes systems. Not high enough temperature rating.

I work on some of my own equipment that is not OPE related
Click to expand...
We are talking about the cost difference of a few bucks a tube of regular cheap grease versus better quality red and tacky grease. I like to save money as much as the next guy, however, when it comes to cents per application and giving the customer better quality, the decision is easy. Plus if I use enough grease out of a tube, I charge the customer a small amount.


#31

G

GearHead36

Grease not getting past sealed bearings.... In this video, this guy disagrees that bearing seals will block grease from getting to the bearings, and he demonstrates his findings. The seals CAN block the grease if you don't apply grease correctly, and he shows how to do it correctly. The trick is, you have to pump in enough grease to fill the spindle, then pump some more until some squirts out each end. That ensures that grease made its way through the bearings on each end. If you pump in what seems like a normal amount, the spindle won't be full, and if you have sealed bearings, they won't get any grease. It takes a lot of grease to fill a spindle. I have a low end commercial ZTR. I bought it with about 400 hrs on it. When I serviced the deck, I found that none of the spindles were dry, but also, none were full of grease. Two were fine, but one had a lot of play and a lot of wear. I replaced it. I then greased my spindles as the guy in the video recommends. That was only about 30 hrs ago, so I don't have any long term results.


#32

woodstover

woodstover

GearHead36 said:
Grease not getting past sealed bearings.... In this video, this guy disagrees that bearing seals will block grease from getting to the bearings, and he demonstrates his findings. The seals CAN block the grease if you don't apply grease correctly, and he shows how to do it correctly. The trick is, you have to pump in enough grease to fill the spindle, then pump some more until some squirts out each end. That ensures that grease made its way through the bearings on each end. If you pump in what seems like a normal amount, the spindle won't be full, and if you have sealed bearings, they won't get any grease. It takes a lot of grease to fill a spindle. I have a low end commercial ZTR. I bought it with about 400 hrs on it. When I serviced the deck, I found that none of the spindles were dry, but also, none were full of grease. Two were fine, but one had a lot of play and a lot of wear. I replaced it. I then greased my spindles as the guy in the video recommends. That was only about 30 hrs ago, so I don't have any long term results.
Click to expand...
Waaaaaaaaay back in time when I was apprenticing automotive, at school the rule was not to overpack grease in wheel bearings, etc meaning pack the bearings properly, apply a thin coat on hub & spindles to prevent corrosion only as it causes heat retention and causes premature bearing wear due to heat. Overpacking a spindle to the point that it oozes out each end to me suggests that the grease is insulating and not allowing ambient air to cool the spindle housing as a whole. Also the waste of grease. Just my 2 cents.


#33

G

GearHead36

woodstover said:
Waaaaaaaaay back in time when I was apprenticing automotive, at school the rule was not to overpack grease in wheel bearings, etc meaning pack the bearings properly, apply a thin coat on hub & spindles to prevent corrosion only as it causes heat retention and causes premature bearing wear due to heat. Overpacking a spindle to the point that it oozes out each end to me suggests that the grease is insulating and not allowing ambient air to cool the spindle housing as a whole. Also the waste of grease. Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
I'm going to disagree that air cools better than grease. Grease will conduct heat way better than air. Wheel bearings have to be removed to be greased. They typically don't get greased through zerk fittings. Any assembly with a zerk fitting (ball joint, tie rod, etc) gets filled until grease comes out somewhere, or until you can feel the boot start to bulge.


#34

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

GearHead36 said:
I'm going to disagree that air cools better than grease. Grease will conduct heat way better than air. Wheel bearings have to be removed to be greased. They typically don't get greased through zerk fittings. Any assembly with a zerk fitting (ball joint, tie rod, etc) gets filled until grease comes out somewhere, or until you can feel the boot start to bulge.
Click to expand...
Most people are not going to remove a bearing in a spindle to pack it, before installing it. Nobody is going to remove the bearing once the spindle is installed to pack it at a later date. Pump the spindle full until it comes out is the only practical way. It can take 100-150 pumps sometimes.


#35

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

woodstover said:
Waaaaaaaaay back in time when I was apprenticing automotive, at school the rule was not to overpack grease in wheel bearings, etc meaning pack the bearings properly, apply a thin coat on hub & spindles to prevent corrosion only as it causes heat retention and causes premature bearing wear due to heat. Overpacking a spindle to the point that it oozes out each end to me suggests that the grease is insulating and not allowing ambient air to cool the spindle housing as a whole. Also the waste of grease. Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
That was the concern with overpacking wheel bearings. The extra grease causes heat retention leading to premature bearing failure.
GearHead36 said:
I'm going to disagree that air cools better than grease. Grease will conduct heat way better than air. Wheel bearings have to be removed to be greased. They typically don't get greased through zerk fittings. Any assembly with a zerk fitting (ball joint, tie rod, etc) gets filled until grease comes out somewhere, or until you can feel the boot start to bulge.
Click to expand...
You are correct that the grease will conduct heat better than the air, but the issue that @woodstover is trying to bring up is that grease also retains the heat longer. Which is/was believed to lead to premature bearing failure. And also the reason most sealed bearings don't appear to have enough grease installed from the factory.

And something I just thought of was what type of grease is being used in sealed bearings. Are they using urea based grease, and then we are pumping the spindles and bearings full of lithium based grease, and the 2 greases are incompatible with each other leading to early bearing failure.


#36

G

GearHead36

ILENGINE said:
That was the concern with overpacking wheel bearings. The extra grease causes heat retention leading to premature bearing failure.

You are correct that the grease will conduct heat better than the air, but the issue that @woodstover is trying to bring up is that grease also retains the heat longer. Which is/was believed to lead to premature bearing failure. And also the reason most sealed bearings don't appear to have enough grease installed from the factory.
Click to expand...
I'm having a hard time understanding how this could be. I'm not saying that it's impossible, but I'd like to see proof.

ILENGINE said:
And something I just thought of was what type of grease is being used in sealed bearings. Are they using urea based grease, and then we are pumping the spindles and bearings full of lithium based grease, and the 2 greases are incompatible with each other leading to early bearing failure.
Click to expand...
I hope that's not the case. I recently replaced a spindle, and filled it with Lucas Red n Tacky.


#37

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

@GearHead36 I don't know if it was a proven fact or some word of mouth that spread about, with the original reason being trying to save grease. But back when I was playing mechanic on M813A1's, it was taught to not fill the wheel spindles full of grease because it caused the hubs to run hotter. Which may not of lead to bearing failure, but would take longer to cool back to air temperature because of the retained heat in the grease.

The green urea based grease thought came about because of the replacement bearings on my nephews stump grinder wheel shaft. We have always used the lithium based greases on that machine, but when doing the last replacement and following the bearing manufacturer instructions it was noted that the bearings are packed from the factory with urea base grease.


#38

G

GearHead36

@ILENGINE, I'm no expert in the matter. I'm not a petroleum engineer. I AM an engineer (electrical) and a gearhead (my dad was a professional mechanic), so I'm not totally clueless. But also, my career as an engineer has taught me that I don't know everything. For the assemblies that get filled with grease (ball joints, tie rods, etc), they are typically NOT rotating assemblies. Bearings on rotating assemblies, like wheel bearings, typically get removed and repacked. So I don't know the answer on this one. Filling the spindle until grease squirts out WILL put grease in the bearings, but is filling the spindle going to cause other problems? I don't know. I would like to think that some engineer somewhere knew what he was doing when he put a zerk fitting on his spindle design. Testing this sounds like a mission for Project Farm.


#39

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

GearHead36 said:
@ILENGINE, I'm no expert in the matter. I'm not a petroleum engineer. I AM an engineer (electrical) and a gearhead (my dad was a professional mechanic), so I'm not totally clueless. But also, my career as an engineer has taught me that I don't know everything. For the assemblies that get filled with grease (ball joints, tie rods, etc), they are typically NOT rotating assemblies. Bearings on rotating assemblies, like wheel bearings, typically get removed and repacked. So I don't know the answer on this one. Filling the spindle until grease squirts out WILL put grease in the bearings, but is filling the spindle going to cause other problems? I don't know. I would like to think that some engineer somewhere knew what he was doing when he put a zerk fitting on his spindle design. Testing this sounds like a mission for Project Farm.
Click to expand...
Agree, The word if true or not about filling housings is anedotal at this point. One source says to not fill a wheel bearing spindle full of grease because the extra heat retention could cause problems. Then there are several trailers with greasable spindles that you are suppose to replace the grease in the spindle every 3000 miles by pumping grease into the spindle until grease comes out clean, basically replacing all the grease in the wheel bearing housing


#40

A

Auto Doc's

I have learned that the more I think I know, the more I really have yet to learn.

For many years, when I overhaul a deck or replace a spindle, I open the new ones to pack the bearings manually to ensure they have enough extreme pressure (EP) grease. I have always had a great service history using Mystic JT 6 Red EP Grease


#41

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

Auto Doc's said:
I have learned that the more I think I know, the more I really have yet to learn.

For many years, when I overhaul a deck or replace a spindle, I open the new ones to pack the bearings manually to ensure they have enough extreme pressure (EP) grease. I have always had a great service history using Mystic JT 6 Red EP Grease
Click to expand...
Common sense tells me that grease is good for rapidly spinning parts, and no grease is bad. I think people tend to overthink situations sometimes. I have the original spindles on my 2006 Scag Turf Tiger. Do you think that is because I NEVER greased them?


#42

H

Honest Abe

BrentW said:
I have a Tiger Cat 2 61 in that has gone through way to many spindle assembly's. It has 450 hrs and has already gone through the factory set and now a aftermarket set. I use good red grease and still burn through them. I mow all summer and mulch lots of leaves in the winter and am tired of replacing spindles. Any advice w
Click to expand...

BrentW said:
I have a Tiger Cat 2 61 in that has gone through way to many spindle assembly's. It has 450 hrs and has already gone through the factory set and now a aftermarket set. I use good red grease and still burn through them. I mow all summer and mulch lots of leaves in the winter and am tired of replacing spindles. Any advice would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
for what it's worth, my soil condition is sandy loam, and the deck bearings on my Gravely were burning out about every 3 months or 30 hours of use. After going through 3 sets of expensive OEM's I switched to Oregon brands spindles. These have lasted over 2 years or around a couple hundred hours .....


#43

A

Auto Doc's

Hi Tiger SE,

I think we both know "common sense" is not common anymore.

I grew up in a poor family where we had to keep everything (vehicles, tractors, mowers) repaired and maintained on a regular basis. We could not easily afford new vehicles or equipment at a moment's notice.

Often times, I still find myself "resurrecting" some old, donated equipment because it still has years of use left in it.
Some I sell and others I keep.

I have not bought a new piece of lawn equipment in 25 years.

For the record: I'm certain you grease spindles like they should be.


#44

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

Auto Doc's said:
Hi Tiger SE,

I think we both know "common sense" is not common anymore.

I grew up in a poor family where we had to keep everything (vehicles, tractors, mowers) repaired and maintained on a regular basis. We could not easily afford new vehicles or equipment at a moment's notice.

Often times, I still find myself "resurrecting" some old, donated equipment because it still has years of use left in it.
Some I sell and others I keep.

I have not bought a new piece of lawn equipment in 25 years.

For the record: I'm certain you grease spindles like they should be.
Click to expand...
I enjoy greasing equipment. It gives me a certain sense of satisfaction. When there are not grease zerks where they should be on equipment, I am disappointed.


#45

H

Honest Abe

Tiger Small Engine said:
I enjoy greasing equipment. It gives me a certain sense of satisfaction. When there are not grease zerks where they should be on equipment, I am disappointed.
Click to expand...
ahhhhh, nothing better than the scent of good old Cosmoline in the morning....

1755690223637.png


#46

G

GrumpyCat

slomo said:
Would love someone to show some real testing that proves any Lucas product is better than say wallymart SuperTech grease. Most of it is hype and sales gimmicks. Not just Lucas products either.
Click to expand...
Come now! Don’t you know You Get What You Pay For? Life is so simple when one doesn’t question higher and ever higher prices. Just makes the product better! The higher the price the better it must be, right? People wouldn’t pay more if it wasn’t better!

Or maybe that is just it? One should not trust others to have made the correct purchase for one’s own needs. Maybe one only gets what one shops for? Look for the specific properties one desires, then buy that one.

I agree, Walmart sells very good products under the SuperTech brand.


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