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Spark Plug Opinions

#1

Propflux01

Propflux01

90 hours. I've never had to add oil. Plugs look a bit rich to me. FS600V. Choke fully retracted. Runs seemingly normal. No smoke (black or blue) when running or accelerating. Thoughts?IMG_8846.jpg


#2

T

txmowman

No, these plugs look typical for the most part. Overheated, if anything, not rich. Rich running would be dark black soot (unburned fuel), all over the porcelain and threads, that could be wiped off.


#3

Propflux01

Propflux01

txmowman said:
No, these plugs look typical for the most part. Overheated, if anything, not rich. Rich running would be dark black soot (unburned fuel), all over the porcelain and threads, that could be wiped off.
Click to expand...
The one on the left I could see, but the one on the right shouldn’t be that black, should it?


#4

A

Auto Doc's

I would replace the plugs with new ones (I prefer genuine Champion plugs from a parts store, not Amazon). If it's been running good keep going. A V-twin Kawasaki is a good engine.


#5

T

txmowman

Agree with @Auto Doc's, replace them if you are in question.


#6

Propflux01

Propflux01

They will be replaced. I was mainly concerned with their appearance.


#7

A

Auto Doc's

The one with the whitest porcelain could mean a condition that is a little lean on the fuel mixture. The darker one is an indication of incomplete fuel burn and glazing, that usually ends up being an issue with the spark plug heat range or the resistor in the plug is starting to give out.

Are both plugs the same part number? What brand are they? Is this a single throat carburetor or a dual throat?

If it is a dual throat carburetor, manufacturers typically install 2 different main jets for reasons related to proper cylinder cooling and power balance.

On a maintenance note, it is very important to remove the top cover and any shields on occasion and blow all the dirt and grass chaff out of the cylinder fins. Plugged up cooling fins is a quick way to create overheating damage on small engines.


#8

Propflux01

Propflux01

Yes, both NGK BPR4ES. Single throat carb.

No FOD in the cooling fin area.


#9

A

Auto Doc's

Propflux01 said:
Yes, both NGK BPR4ES. Single throat carb.

No FOD in the cooling fin area.
Click to expand...
FOD? Wow! That is a military term I have not heard for a while.

Like I mentioned earlier, I would use Champion plugs. They should be RN12YC but double check the application number.


#10

Propflux01

Propflux01

Auto Doc's said:
FOD? Wow! That is a military term I have not heard for a while.

Like I mentioned earlier, I would use Champion plugs. They should be RN12YC but double check the application number.
Click to expand...
Comes back to haunt ya! lol!

Will do. Is there any reason you prefer the champs over the NGK's?


#11

A

Auto Doc's

Propflux01 said:
Comes back to haunt ya! lol!

Will do. Is there any reason you prefer the champs over the NGK's?
Click to expand...
Haunt me, yes. When I was a crew chief years ago, we had flightline FOD walks 3 times a day (once per shift over a 24-hour period every week.)

NGK is one of the most duplicated (copycatted) brands by the black market. Lots of info online about that. BPR4ES is what I believe is a "cold" plug as far as part numbers go. Is that the actual number this engine actually specifies?

I have always had better longevity out of Champion over the years in small V-twin engines.


#12

Propflux01

Propflux01

Auto Doc's said:
Haunt me, yes. When I was a crew chief years ago, we had flightline FOD walks 3 times a day (once per shift over a 24-hour period every week.)

NGK is one of the most duplicated (copycatted) brands by the black market. Lots of info online about that. BPR4ES is what I believe is a "cold" plug as far as part numbers go. Is that the actual number this engine actually specifies?

I have always had better longevity out of Champion over the years in small V-twin engines.
Click to expand...
I was engines. C-130 Well acquainted with FOD walks!

The BPR4es is a hotter plug than the Champion. It is what was originally installed when new.


#13

T

txmowman

Propflux01 said:
Yes, both NGK BPR4ES. Single throat carb.

No FOD in the cooling fin area.
Click to expand...
The NGK and Champion plugs listed are not the same. Physically, yes. Performance, no. Research it.
It is always best to stick with what the manufacturer recommends.


#14

M

MParr

Champion RN14YC


#15

S

slomo

As long as both cylinders have clean cooling fins and typical cylinder valve/cylinder sealing conditions ect.....

Left plug looks "good" BUT main jet is filthy rich. Look at the base ring where the threads stop towards electrode. This is where you size the main jet up. Both plugs are black in this area.
Recommend a high altitude main jet if fresh plugs run this way.

Right plug is rich all over. Float height is too high?? Air filter plugged? Excessive resistance possibly from counterfeit plugs?

You also have a lot of oil at the crush washer/sealing gasket area on both plugs.

That 4 in the NGK number is a touch hotter than normal. Think 5 is a typical/normal/common heat range.

Recommend taking a multi meter to where you buy plugs. NGK's shouldn't measure much over say 5k Ohms'ish for a resistor plug. If you see 6-10k Ohms then pass on them. Counterfeit plug alert.


#16

S

slomo

Recommend you load test your ignition coils. Should jump a min 0.25" in free air. Right plug might have weak spark???

1747153841834.png


#17

Propflux01

Propflux01

slomo said:
As long as both cylinders have clean cooling fins and typical cylinder valve/cylinder sealing conditions ect.....

Left plug looks "good" BUT main jet is filthy rich. Look at the base ring where the threads stop towards electrode. This is where you size the main jet up. Both plugs are black in this area.
Recommend a high altitude main jet if fresh plugs run this way.

Right plug is rich all over. Float height is too high?? Air filter plugged? Excessive resistance possibly from counterfeit plugs?

You also have a lot of oil at the crush washer/sealing gasket area on both plugs.

That 4 in the NGK number is a touch hotter than normal. Think 5 is a typical/normal/common heat range.

Recommend taking a multi meter to where you buy plugs. NGK's shouldn't measure much over say 5k Ohms'ish for a resistor plug. If you see 6-10k Ohms then pass on them. Counterfeit plug alert.
Click to expand...
Well, here is the rest of the story… ever since I’ve had this mower it takes forever to start when cold. i posted about it and was told it had to be the choke (It would take 15-25 seconds of cranking to get it to start when cold, after it started, even if I came out two hours later it would start immediately afterwards. The next weekend it’d be right back at Hard start). so I adjusted choke with same results. I figured changing fuel pump would cure it, as I thought maybe it was siphoning back into the tank, and this seemed to fix it for a couple weeks. So I decided to get a carb kit and go through it. Now when I bought this it had been sitting for quite awhile, and the tech had to uncrud the carb so it would start (was bought new, I think they serviced it up, filled with a little gas just to check operation then put it on the sales area). So took carb off and disassembled. Things looked a bit crusty, bowl gasket literally fell apart. Then I noticed one of the towers thst hold the float was broken. It seemed like it was still working the float ok, but I didn’t like it. So I broke down and bought an OEM kawa carb. It comes in tomorrow. While I was there, that’s when I pulled the plugs and came to this thread.
Air filter is good, plugs are OEM. I bought new ones but have not installed them yet. I boroscoped engine cylinders and see no damage or wear. I don’t know what jet is in it, or if the replacement has the same jet. I think I have three choices on jets, a 98,100, 102.


#18

Propflux01

Propflux01

slomo said:
Recommend you load test your ignition coils. Should jump a min 0.25" in free air. Right plug might have weak spark???

View attachment 70951
Click to expand...
Yes, I have pulled the shroud and ensured no FOD in the cooling area. I had thought about ignition coils, but like previously posted, once it starts it fires evenly and smooth, and only hard starts cold. I will have to look into that tool, it looks better than the “lighting up” one I have now.


#19

A

Auto Doc's

Propflux01 said:
Yes, I have pulled the shroud and ensured no FOD in the cooling area. I had thought about ignition coils, but like previously posted, once it starts it fires evenly and smooth, and only hard starts cold. I will have to look into that tool, it looks better than the “lighting up” one I have now.
Click to expand...
Hello Propflux01,

The adjustable air gap spark testers have always been reliable and consistent. The bulb type "lighting up" ones have always been questionable to me and easy to break (the bulb element). The example shown of the adjustable one has a segment with "SE", that is for small engine coil testing.

One thing that will trick you on the V-twin small equipment engines is that it will seem to run smooth until you put it under a heavy load and try to cut with it. They do not give any hint, because there is no vibration or rocking of the solid mounted engine, just a loss of power.

At first, a person will blame a plug or the coil, swap them out only to find the problem still exists.

The V-twin engines have a kill wire harness (segment) and each wire going to the individual coils contains a small inline diode (usually hidden by shrink tape). The diode is there to prevent the coils from back feeding each other during key off shutdown of the engine.

I recommend you replace the plugs and run the engine for a few minutes to get the temperature up. At that point, use a spray bottle of water and shoot a burst/stream of water on to each exhaust pipe outlet. If a cylinder is working well, the water will immediately burn off the exhaust pipe.

If the water does not burn off quickly on one pipe, that indicates poor combustion/power on that cylinder.

There are several factors that create a weak cylinder, but let's not get ahead ourselves.... Let's see how the new plugs work out first.


#20

Propflux01

Propflux01

Auto Doc's said:
Hello Propflux01,

The adjustable air gap spark testers have always been reliable and consistent. The bulb type "lighting up" ones have always been questionable to me and easy to break (the bulb element). The example shown of the adjustable one has a segment with "SE", that is for small engine coil testing.

One thing that will trick you on the V-twin small equipment engines is that it will seem to run smooth until you put it under a heavy load and try to cut with it. They do not give any hint, because there is no vibration or rocking of the solid mounted engine, just a loss of power.

At first, a person will blame a plug or the coil, swap them out only to find the problem still exists.

The V-twin engines have a kill wire harness (segment) and each wire going to the individual coils contains a small inline diode (usually hidden by shrink tape). The diode is there to prevent the coils from back feeding each other during key off shutdown of the engine.

I recommend you replace the plugs and run the engine for a few minutes to get the temperature up. At that point, use a spray bottle of water and shoot a burst/stream of water on to each exhaust pipe outlet. If a cylinder is working well, the water will immediately burn off the exhaust pipe.

If the water does not burn off quickly on one pipe, that indicates poor combustion/power on that cylinder.

There are several factors that create a weak cylinder, but let's not get ahead ourselves.... Let's see how the new plugs work out first.
Click to expand...
I will do that when the carb comes in and gets installed.


#21

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

Propflux01 said:
I will do that when the carb comes in and gets installed.
Click to expand...
NGK plugs are my favorite. Then comes Champion, Bosch, and others. At the bottom of the list for quality and reliability are the cheap Chinese “Torch” spark plugs and knockoffs.


#22

Propflux01

Propflux01

Tiger Small Engine said:
NGK plugs are my favorite. Then comes Champion, Bosch, and others. At the bottom of the list for quality and reliability are the cheap Chinese “Torch” spark plugs and knockoffs.
Click to expand...
I usually immediately change out anything with a Torch in it.


#23

Propflux01

Propflux01

Update: The carb is on. One minor adjustment and immediate startup cold. It runs good, but I will change the plugs tomorrow and get a new baseline.


#24

MarineBob

MarineBob

I am not an expert but the difference in the two plugs is troubling. I am not familiar with the specific engine but I do smile when I read the comments about different brands of plugs. Only ABC for me, do not buy on Amazon...... When I was in my youth, we had no money to 'waste' on things like new spark plugs. For sure a Chevy 283 or a Dodge slant 6 was not the same sophistication as today's 2 L turbo engine, but all a spark plug does is provide a spark to ignite what is hopefully a properly mixed fuel mixture. For a small engine, as long as the spark is provided at some reasonable strength the brand should not matter. The heat range and depth is a consideration but on a small engine? I believe people are way too quick to toss a good plug when a soak in some solvent and a bit of cleaning with a proper gap gets it back to good operation. Anyway, my question with the pics is why the difference? I agree one looks hot, the other, more or less typical for a plug that just needs a cleaning. I guess my thoughts would be how long have those been in operation and is the result typical with a good running engine?


#25

M

mmoffitt

Propflux01 said:
Yes, both NGK BPR4ES. Single throat carb.

No FOD in the cooling fin area.
Click to expand...
AF CrewChief?


#26

S

Savage3

One thing I've noticed on those engines, the one coil always has better spark on one side then the other. The one plug also looks better then the other.

These facts have lead me to believe that the issue could be more related to the coils/spark/ignition then fuel. I've noticed it on several and have also seen several coils fail.

Just observations, no conclusive evidence.


#27

M

Mattmotors

I guess the original plugs were unsat. We will need a sit rep when you are done.


#28

G

Gord Baker

Propflux01 said:
90 hours. I've never had to add oil. Plugs look a bit rich to me. FS600V. Choke fully retracted. Runs seemingly normal. No smoke (black or blue) when running or accelerating. Thoughts?View attachment 70913
Click to expand...
Put them back in, opposite cylinders. Dark one is normal colour and no carbon buildup. Pull off the plug wire on the darkened plug side and see if it still runs. I suspect coil problems on the like new side.


#29

justin@justintime

justin@justintime

replace both coil packs with 21171-0740 left white plug used to look like the right one until it got washed with fuel. this assuming inatke is attached that cylinder isnt running hot for some other reason, valve adjusts, head gaskets, debris etc be willing it even runs on that cylinder (power balance test) kawia coils about the only ones I seen die as slow as they do and die quietly. This will be way over most peoples heads but I use a little handheld oscilloscope just cheap Chinese garbage but it does what I need it to do. I also have a pico scope. all inductive style spark or waste spark systems such as most v twins have all have a wave form all of which should look pretty much the same. Ive had muiltiple FS engines pass power balance test and run on each sindle individually and sound very similar with very similar rpm but just doesn't have the power it should. and get a wave form on each and have one look very different from the norm pictured below......dont get me wrong eventually the failing coil will fail but for now and probably a while one cylinder is doing alot more then the other, you'll probably also find old part numbered coils on there. do them both call it a day and move on. this is obviously after verifying all that and everything else.


1747482913134.png


#30

S

Savage3

justin@justintime said:
replace both coil packs with 21171-0740 left white plug used to look like the right one until it got washed with fuel. this assuming inatke is attached that cylinder isnt running hot for some other reason, valve adjusts, head gaskets, debris etc be willing it even runs on that cylinder (power balance test) kawia coils about the only ones I seen die as slow as they do and die quietly. This will be way over most peoples heads but I use a little handheld oscilloscope just cheap Chinese garbage but it does what I need it to do. I also have a pico scope. all inductive style spark or waste spark systems such as most v twins have all have a wave form all of which should look pretty much the same. Ive had muiltiple FS engines pass power balance test and run on each sindle individually and sound very similar with very similar rpm but just doesn't have the power it should. and get a wave form on each and have one look very different from the norm pictured below......dont get me wrong eventually the failing coil will fail but for now and probably a while one cylinder is doing alot more then the other, you'll probably also find old part numbered coils on there. do them both call it a day and move on. this is obviously after verifying all that and everything else.


View attachment 70966
Click to expand...
Good stuff, I've had the same results with my scope.


#31

S

Savage3

Makes ya wonder, is it a matter of quality control at the coil manufacturer (some coils have more or less turns then others)?

Or......is it an electrical engineering miscalculation. Problems are common enough with premature coil failures to ask these questions. Worth looking into at a minimum in my opinion.


#32

J

Johner

Propflux01 said:
90 hours. I've never had to add oil. Plugs look a bit rich to me. FS600V. Choke fully retracted. Runs seemingly normal. No smoke (black or blue) when running or accelerating. Thoughts?View attachment 70913
Click to expand...


#33

J

Johner

Check the valve clearance, could be the oil seal on intake valve


#34

justin@justintime

justin@justintime

Savage3 said:
Makes ya wonder, is it a matter of quality control at the coil manufacturer (some coils have more or less turns then others)?

Or......is it an electrical engineering miscalculation. Problems are common enough with premature coil failures to ask these questions. Worth looking into at a minimum in my opinion.
Click to expand...


#35

justin@justintime

justin@justintime

True on the turns, yes bit of a quality control thing also a price bracket thing. coils are coils with a primary and a secondary other then their physical appearance they work the same with the same stuff inside them go price a coil pack for a Buick leSabre not much of a difference price wise. Im sure they could make a bullet proof coil but no ones going to pay 200 bucks for it. other then maybe me. make the switch to iridium NGK plugs youll never have to change them and less load on the packs yes I run 14 dollar spark plugs in my fs600 I dumped on a craftsman pro t8200 lawn tractor. And part up dates we dont get to see the reason why cause big names like kawai, JD Stihl keep that stuff under wraps (the oops we F'ed up on the first batch) yet I can get TSBs for the buick leSabre with a flick of the keyboard.


#36

B

bentrim

Somthing to think about. A V twin engine fires the same as the two cylinder John Deere. One cylinder fires and the other fires 90* later then there is no power for 270* turn of the crankshaft. John Deere had an issue using single barrel carburetors because the first cylinder was lean and the second cylinder was rich. This was caused by the air flow thru the carburetor, the first cylinder had to "start" the mixture moving and the second got what was the over rich charge because the mixture was now up to speed. John Deere fixed this in the fifties when they started using two barrel carburetors.
If you consider the V twin if fires the same as the old Deere's. The old flat head opposed twins would fire 180* if you ever paid attention you noted the different exhaust tone.


#37

Propflux01

Propflux01

mmoffitt said:
AF CrewChief?
Click to expand...
Engines.


#38

R

Red Good

You spent the money to buy a Kawasaki motor , don t put anything but NGK plugs in it . jmho


#39

justin@justintime

justin@justintime

bentrim said:
Somthing to think about. A V twin engine fires the same as the two cylinder John Deere. One cylinder fires and the other fires 90* later then there is no power for 270* turn of the crankshaft. John Deere had an issue using single barrel carburetors because the first cylinder was lean and the second cylinder was rich. This was caused by the air flow thru the carburetor, the first cylinder had to "start" the mixture moving and the second got what was the over rich charge because the mixture was now up to speed. John Deere fixed this in the fifties when they started using two barrel carburetors.
If you consider the V twin if fires the same as the old Deere's. The old flat head opposed twins would fire 180* if you ever paid attention you noted the different exhaust tone.
Click to expand...
Intake manifolds are different lengths on either side of the carb to compensate for this. If you're referring to the newer Happy Homeowner JD tractors and zero turns running single barrel Breaks and scrap em engines the older ones pre 2021ish benefit big time from a larger updated part number main jet and its noticeably larger. No service bulletin from briggs just a part number update that I'm aware of. Im also B&S dealer not that I wear that as a badge by anymeans. But JD got more BS in them than the ones rocking the name with B&S


#40

O

outdoorpowermike

Very possible that the spark plug that is white in color has a intake seal or gasket starting to fail. Try spraying something like 2+2 carefully around the intake manifold at cylinder head, If engine rpm changes replace gaskets or seals. Just something to consider.


#41

B

bentrim

Guess it shows my age! Oh my. I was refering to the John Deere tractors made in the 30's 40's and 50's. It was 52 or 53 when they finally went to two barrel carbs.


#42

B

bentrim

Guess it shows my age! Oh my. I was refering to the John Deere tractors made in the 30's 40's and 50's. It was 52 or 53 when they finally went to two barrel carbs.


#43

S

SeniorCitizen

Propflux01 said:
Comes back to haunt ya! lol!

Will do. Is there any reason you prefer the champs over the NGK's?
Click to expand...
The reason i changed to champion is when before retirement a Brand New 7042 1,000 H.P.Waukeshaw was set in the area i maintained . Being on call I was the fellow that received the phone call at around 2 AM , new engine down abut 20 miles away . Removed NGK that I'd never heard of and replaced with Champion . That engine may still be running those and they were installed before my retirement in 1986 . LOL
Recently , my X350 was running so bad I was wondering if it would make it back to the shop . Pulled NGK ( gapped 0.020" from the factory ) and Champion solved the problem . The JD book recommends 0.030" plug gap and that's what the Champions were from the factory . It Has never started when the first piston reached compression as it does now .


#44

S

slomo

Auto Doc's said:
The adjustable air gap spark testers have always been reliable and consistent. The bulb type "lighting up" ones have always been questionable to me and easy to break (the bulb element). The example shown of the adjustable one has a segment with "SE", that is for small engine coil testing.
Click to expand...
True true.

I want to see the spark not some Christmas light with zero meaning about spark condition. Best tool for the job is a PET-4000.



#45

S

slomo

Propflux01 said:
ever since I’ve had this mower it takes forever to start when cold.
Click to expand...
How cold is cold here?
Propflux01 said:
so I adjusted choke with same results.
Click to expand...
Dead cold, choke plate needs to be fully closed. Read your engine manual about the choke.
Propflux01 said:
I figured changing fuel pump would cure it, as I thought maybe it was siphoning back into the tank,
Click to expand...
Do you not have an inline fuel shutoff valve installed? I would get one. Only a couple bucks. Those and good filters go on every mower I touch.
Propflux01 said:
So I decided to get a carb kit and go through it. Now when I bought this it had been sitting for quite awhile, and the tech had to uncrud the carb so it would start
Click to expand...
So carb was choked up and needed a rebuild/cleaning. No wonder it wouldn't start proper.
Propflux01 said:
So I broke down and bought an OEM kawa carb. It comes in tomorrow. While I was there, that’s when I pulled the plugs and came to this thread.
Click to expand...
Good man. On the right track. Guessing with an internally trashed carb, this entire post is all about it. Plugged up internal passages and different running plugs ect.....
Propflux01 said:
Air filter is good, plugs are OEM.
Click to expand...
Explain what good means? Explain what OEM means? You know plugs and filters are counterfeited all the time. Can you blow through the filter? Resistor plugs both test at a rough value of 5k Ohms?


#46

A

Auto Doc's

Hi Slomo,

I still have a Briggs and Stratton original round wooden air gap spark test from when I started out in the late 70's. That thing has seen a lot of spark testing.


#47

S

SeniorCitizen

About an eye dropper of gasoline into the top of the carb will tell us a few things


#48

L

Lmalino

Propflux01 said:
90 hours. I've never had to add oil. Plugs look a bit rich to me. FS600V. Choke fully retracted. Runs seemingly normal. No smoke (black or blue) when running or accelerating. Thoughts?View attachment 70913
Click to expand...
Don't worry about spark plugs. Back in the late '50s Hot Rod magazine had an extensive analysis on spark plugs which included the comment that spark plugs on magneto systems have high endurance and don't suffer the wear as other ignition systems. My outdoor power equipment is 40 - 50 yrs old, most with their original plugs. I've had to replace coils, head gaskets, fuel lines, etc. Some of the plug electrodes are showing some wear but no starting / missing or other run problems.


#49

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

Lmalino said:
Don't worry about spark plugs. Back in the late '50s Hot Rod magazine had an extensive analysis on spark plugs which included the comment that spark plugs on magneto systems have high endurance and don't suffer the wear as other ignition systems. My outdoor power equipment is 40 - 50 yrs old, most with their original plugs. I've had to replace coils, head gaskets, fuel lines, etc. Some of the plug electrodes are showing some wear but no starting / missing or other run problems.
Click to expand...
The thing with spark plugs now is the gas is more electrical conductive and the ceramic is no longer sealed and is porous. So it will absorb gas from flooding and short the plug out internally. And most ignition systems are no longer magneto systems. They are CDI Capacitive discharge ignition.


#50

Propflux01

Propflux01

slomo said:
How cold is cold here?

Dead cold, choke plate needs to be fully closed. Read your engine manual about the choke.

Do you not have an inline fuel shutoff valve installed? I would get one. Only a couple bucks. Those and good filters go on every mower I touch.

So carb was choked up and needed a rebuild/cleaning. No wonder it wouldn't start proper.

Good man. On the right track. Guessing with an internally trashed carb, this entire post is all about it. Plugged up internal passages and different running plugs ect.....

Explain what good means? Explain what OEM means? You know plugs and filters are counterfeited all the time. Can you blow through the filter? Resistor plugs both test at a rough value of 5k Ohms?
Click to expand...
As already explained, Cold as in a week of non usage I know the choke needs to be closed all the way, hence my original thread about the hard start before this one.

No, I do not have a fuel shut-off, I do have a good filter on it.

Carb appeared to be older than it should have been in terms of deposits and such, hence why it was replaced rather than rebuilt.

Good, as in serviceable, clean, fairly new, unobstructed.OEM, as in Original Equipment (Manufacturer). AS stated before the plugs were installed by the manufacturer, the replacement ones are genuine NGK. I know about counterfeits and how to spot them. Yes, I can blow through the fuel filter.


#51

Propflux01

Propflux01

SeniorCitizen said:
About an eye dropper of gasoline into the top of the carb will tell us a few things
Click to expand...
Such as ?


#52

Propflux01

Propflux01

Lmalino said:
Don't worry about spark plugs. Back in the late '50s Hot Rod magazine had an extensive analysis on spark plugs which included the comment that spark plugs on magneto systems have high endurance and don't suffer the wear as other ignition systems. My outdoor power equipment is 40 - 50 yrs old, most with their original plugs. I've had to replace coils, head gaskets, fuel lines, etc. Some of the plug electrodes are showing some wear but no starting / missing or other run problems.
Click to expand...
I just changed them as routine, as after the carb I had already purchased them for PM purposes. That's why when I pulled them out, I was a bit surprised at their appearance.


#53

S

SeniorCitizen

Propflux01 said:
Such as ?
Click to expand...
No.1
getting gas as it should or not .


#54

Propflux01

Propflux01

SeniorCitizen said:
No.1
getting gas as it should or not .
Click to expand...
It’s getting gas great now. I’ve used it a couple times now without incident. I wil pull plugs and report back.


#55

Propflux01

Propflux01

Update: Here are the plugs after 4 hours on a new carb and two new ignition coils. Plugs in same position as before. IMG_8883 (1).jpg


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