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I was mowing one evening, shut off my 2009 LTX 1050VT with a Briggs & Stratton 440000 Intek engine. Next day turned the key, and nothing...slight click of solenoid with repeated turning of the key...sometimes nothing at all.

I checked the battery with a multimeter, but the multimeter's lowest DC reading is 250 volts, so the needle did not go very high in the 250 Volts scale, but seemed to indicate 12 Volts on the battery. So I assumed the solenoid had gone bad inasmuch as I could hear some slight clicks from it.

I replaced the solenoid and it still did not turn the engine over. So, I assumed bad starter. Replaced the starter and now the new solenoid will "stutter" (make noise) but starter is not turning the engine over.

I connected a battery charger to the battery and set it to boost. When I turned the key to start, the starter turned the engine ever so slightly then stopped and the solenoid starter stuttering. That is all I can get out of it have no clue as to what could be wrong.

Could I have put the wrong wires on the solenoid when reassembling? That does not seem likely inasmuch as the starter did kick-in very slightly.

I don't think any of the lock-outs have failed because the power is getting to the solenoid.

Anyone have any clue as to what it be?

Check for tightness and clean the battery cables and ground points.
whats the model number of the mower? should be located on tag underneath the seat, with that you can get a wiring diagram.
It could also be a bad battery, it may show fine, but when put under load (Like trying to start the engine) the voltage can drop quite a bit.
also see if you can rotate the engine by hand, to rule out a mechanical issue, or try cranking with the spark plug out.

dahermit said:

I was mowing one evening, shut off my 2009 LTX 1050VT with a Briggs & Stratton 440000 Intek engine. Next day turned the key, and nothing...slight click of solenoid with repeated turning of the key...sometimes nothing at all.

I checked the battery with a multimeter, but the multimeter's lowest DC reading is 250 volts, so the needle did not go very high in the 250 Volts scale, but seemed to indicate 12 Volts on the battery. So I assumed the solenoid had gone bad inasmuch as I could hear some slight clicks from it.

I replaced the solenoid and it still did not turn the engine over. So, I assumed bad starter. Replaced the starter and now the new solenoid will "stutter" (make noise) but starter is not turning the engine over.

I connected a battery charger to the battery and set it to boost. When I turned the key to start, the starter turned the engine ever so slightly then stopped and the solenoid starter stuttering. That is all I can get out of it have no clue as to what could be wrong.

Could I have put the wrong wires on the solenoid when reassembling? That does not seem likely inasmuch as the starter did kick-in very slightly.

I don't think any of the lock-outs have failed because the power is getting to the solenoid.

Anyone have any clue as to what it be?

Click to expand...

If the solenoid is clicking, it's wired proper.

Are the battery terminals clean and snug?
Battery cables in proper condition?
Good ground connection to the mower meaning clean fresh unpainted steel can be seen? Rusty bolt or connection area?
Take the battery to any auto parts store. They will test for free. Most likely the battery is bad. It's best to replace the solenoid when you replace the battery. That solenoid does all the heavy lifting far as current flow when starting the engine.

Battery chargers..... Small mower batteries can/will get cooked if you run a 50 plus amp charger on BOOST. A car or truck battery would be fine on boost. You probably fried the battery or helped it lay down on you.

Don't put over 10 amps into a small mower battery when charging.

slomo

Boy do I love it when a DIYer just start guessing what wrong and buying non returnable parts. Just makes my bank account bigger. Especially after they end up taking the mower to a shop and they find out it all was a waste of time as it was a just a bad terminal or bad connection and they just good components. I had one customer that replaced a starter, solenoid, voltage regulator, and stator. Finally gave up and brought the mower into my shop. It turn out to be a bad fifty cent terminal at the ignition switch. Even he didn't the parts from my shop he wanted me to make him whole again.

I even where voltmeter would indicate a voltage at terminals until the circuit get loaded then the voltage drops out which we do voltage drop tests under load.

Harbor Freight sales DVMMs fairly cheap; even Wal-mart sell a cheap DVMM. Also there are the cheap analog meters out there.

That is called the Remington method.

slomo said:

If the solenoid is clicking, it's wired proper.

Are the battery terminals clean and snug?
Battery cables in proper condition?
Good ground connection to the mower meaning clean fresh unpainted steel can be seen? Rusty bolt or connection area?
Take the battery to any auto parts store. They will test for free. Most likely the battery is bad. It's best to replace the solenoid when you replace the battery. That solenoid does all the heavy lifting far as current flow when starting the engine.

Battery chargers..... Small mower batteries can/will get cooked if you run a 50 plus amp charger on BOOST. A car or truck battery would be fine on boost. You probably fried the battery or helped it lay down on you.

Don't put over 10 amps into a small mower battery when charging.

slomo

Click to expand...

I have always found that statement kind of idiotic because you will take that battery that people claim to not charge over 10 amps and then connect it to a charging system putting out 15-25 amps

I regularly use a 20amp charger on batteries. As long as it is an automatic charger it works fine. I have a Li Ion booster pack that fits in a pocket and it will jump start most cars with a low battery. I use ut to start stone dead mowers i pick up at customers. Probably puts out 100amp. Have used it to jump dozens of mowers. Haven't blown a battery or voltage regylator up yet. Most mower batteries are 300 to 450 CCA so a 100amp booster won't kill it.

I think the main problem is that many cheap battery charger are not voltage regulated. With a proper regulated charger it does matter what the setting is over 10 amps as the battery will draw what it need to reach the charger regulated voltage. With an unregulated charger they can kill a battery by boiling off the electrolyte. If you can smell the hydrogen gas when charging you are overcharging. Besides it is an explosion hazard wait to happen in confined spaces.

I use a 60 watt 12 vdc solar panel to recharge many lawn mower batteries. Since it is direct DC it produce non pulse charging voltage which seems to clean the plates better. Now it might take up to three days to clean the plates on car battery. I have been able to relieve a lot batteries with it that even my old 1972 charger can't.

And I did buy one those automatic battery chargers that determines if a battery is 6v or 12v. Couple problems first it never really fully charges a battery and second if the 12v battery is below 7v it will only charge to the 6v battery charge voltage and stop. I have to bump charge the battery with the solar cell to get to charge at 12v. Just lays in the shop drawer collecting dust.

And I also have 20 amp charger with 40 and 200 amp boost modes that I use sometimes but most times it is the antique or solar chargers that get the most use.

I usually find most problems are due to loose or dirty/corroded connections, and urge folks to clean and inspect those before buying anything. Also, try cranking the engine in a dark garage and look for any sparking, as it will show you where the problem is.

Lots of loose, or not tight enough to my standards, battery cables at the battery and solenoid come in our shop quite often. I suspect that will keep the battery from getting full charge from the charging system too.

Addendum: I took the battery to my local TSC and they tested it with a battery load tester. It was bad. Bought a new battery, installed it and the engine started...it was the battery. Now that it is running, I will put it up for sale on Facebook Marketplace and continue to use my new Cub Cadet XTI ST54FAB WITH Kohler engine.

mower king said:

Lots of loose, or not tight enough to my standards, battery cables at the battery and solenoid come in our shop quite often. I suspect that will keep the battery from getting full charge from the charging system too.

Click to expand...

Yes...when I bought the 2009 Cub Cadet, it soon would only start intermittently. I found that whoever put the battery in it (TSC?), had not tightened the bolts on the battery terminals...ruined the battery.

dahermit said:

Yes...when I bought the 2009 Cub Cadet, it soon would only start intermittently. I found that whoever put the battery in it (TSC?), had not tightened the bolts on the battery terminals...ruined the battery.

Click to expand...

I suggest, the next new mower you buy, buy it from a dealership and not a box store. A dealership tends to do a better job at assembly and can work on it....plus, stands behind the warranty real well!

ILENGINE said:

I have always found that statement kind of idiotic because you will take that battery that people claim to not charge over 10 amps and then connect it to a charging system putting out 15-25 amps

Click to expand...

My 10 amp figure was meant to be like don't slam a small battery with a ton of amps. If you guys want to take a 200 amp booster to your watch battery, go ahead. Rapid chargers and boosters do not have the batteries best interest. Those are meant to get you back on the couch faster. Again my thought was keep the amps low as to not cook the little fella.

slomo

I get what you are saying Slomo. But most people claim not to charge a lawnmower battery with more than 10 amp. Heck the paperwork that comes with new ATV batteries says not to charge at a rate above 1.5 amps, and then you install it into a ATV with a 25 amp charging system.