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Snapper ZTR dead-won't turn over
#1
J
jb3b
J
jb3b
I stopped the mower to move some limbs, got right back on it and tried to crank it but nothing happened, completely dead. Checked that parking brake was on, arms in the right position, and clutch was off. everything was set right. Cleaned battery cables and checked ground, ok. I believe it must be one of the switches but don't know how to troubleshoot switches to determine which one is bad. I could definitely use some help. I did put a jumper on the seat switch to no avail. That leaves the hand brake switch and the arm switch and anything else I might not have considered.
#2
E
enigma-2
E
enigma-2
Check for a blown fuse.I stopped the mower to move some limbs, got right back on it and tried to crank it but nothing happened, completely dead. Checked that parking brake was on, arms in the right position, and clutch was off. everything was set right. Cleaned battery cables and checked ground, ok. I believe it must be one of the switches but don't know how to troubleshoot switches to determine which one is bad. I could definitely use some help. I did put a jumper on the seat switch to no avail. That leaves the hand brake switch and the arm switch and anything else I might not have considered.
#3
txzrider
txzrider
with the key on does it try if you jumper across the terminals on the starter solenoid?
#4
L
Lawnranger
L
Lawnranger
First make sure your battery has at least 12.5 volts using a volt meter then check your fuse(s). What you want to do is find out if you have power to the small terminal on the solenoid when holding the key in the start position. You need to make sure you have everything the mower needs to start such as the parking brake set, control arms out, etc. Simply hold the key in the start position and check for 12 volts to the small terminal on the solenoid. If your solenoid has two small terminals then check them both as one is a ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If you have no power to the small start terminal on the solenoid you have a problem with a safety switch, the ignition switch or the wiring. If you have power on the small terminal at the solenoid then you have a bad solenoid or ground at the solenoid body.
Perform the above checks and report back with your findings. You will receive further advice based on your answers.
I will be able to help you if you follow what I ask you to do.
Perform the above checks and report back with your findings. You will receive further advice based on your answers.
I will be able to help you if you follow what I ask you to do.
#5
J
jb3b
J
jb3b
Thanks for all the info. I won't be able to do these checks untill Thursday. I'm looking forward to learning something new as well as getting my mower up and running.
#6
L
Lawnranger
Take your time and most important is safety.
L
Lawnranger
Thanks for all the info. I won't be able to do these checks untill Thursday. I'm looking forward to learning something new as well as getting my mower up and running.
Take your time and most important is safety.
#7
J
jb3b
When I jumpered across the terminals the engine spun like a top.
J
jb3b
with the key on does it try if you jumper across the terminals on the starter solenoid?
When I jumpered across the terminals the engine spun like a top.
#8
J
jb3b
Didn't find a fuse but did find a 20 amp circuit breaker. It checked out ok.
J
jb3b
Check for a blown fuse.
Didn't find a fuse but did find a 20 amp circuit breaker. It checked out ok.
#9
J
jb3b
I did not check the small terminals with a volt meter but did check with tester and the bulb lit up on both small lines. I jumped across the terminals and the motor spun so I determined the solenoid was bad and invested ten bucks and replaced it. It didn't work. I will be able to check with a volt meter tomorrow. The 20 amp circuit breaker ohmed out ok. I looks to me like the culprit is either the hand brake switch, the arm switch, or the ignition switch. What is your suggestion going forward.
J
jb3b
First make sure your battery has at least 12.5 volts using a volt meter then check your fuse(s). What you want to do is find out if you have power to the small terminal on the solenoid when holding the key in the start position. You need to make sure you have everything the mower needs to start such as the parking brake set, control arms out, etc. Simply hold the key in the start position and check for 12 volts to the small terminal on the solenoid. If your solenoid has two small terminals then check them both as one is a ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If you have no power to the small start terminal on the solenoid you have a problem with a safety switch, the ignition switch or the wiring. If you have power on the small terminal at the solenoid then you have a bad solenoid or ground at the solenoid body.
Perform the above checks and report back with your findings. You will receive further advice based on your answers.
I will be able to help you if you follow what I ask you to do.
I did not check the small terminals with a volt meter but did check with tester and the bulb lit up on both small lines. I jumped across the terminals and the motor spun so I determined the solenoid was bad and invested ten bucks and replaced it. It didn't work. I will be able to check with a volt meter tomorrow. The 20 amp circuit breaker ohmed out ok. I looks to me like the culprit is either the hand brake switch, the arm switch, or the ignition switch. What is your suggestion going forward.
#10
L
Lawnranger
Start with the seat switch. Inspect the harness connector at the switch and tell me if there is a wire/cable tie holding the harness connector to the switch. If there is no cable tie proceed by removing the connector from the switch and inspect the end of the connector very, very carefully as you will be looking for a small odd shaped plunger that is actually a mirco switch in the end of the plastic harness connector. Some machines use them, some do not. If this harness connector backs out of the seat switch, even just a little bit, you may experience a no-start condition. The fix is to make sure the electrical connectors are clean & tight and then install the connector all the way on the seat switch. Next, use a wire/cable tie to secure the connector to the seat switch to prevent the problem from occurring again. This should not take you more than a couple of minutes to diagnose and fix so I'm starting with the simplest solution first. If this does not fix the problem then proceed to the safety switches in the system by removing and testing them one at a time using an ohm meter.
Post your results when finished with the tests.
I'm going to add the following:
Since this is a help forum, it is only fair that the people trying to answer questions have some information to work with, so they can give an accurate answer. This helps them if they need to research parts or service information on your engine or equipment. In the first part of your post please include your engine numbers from the ID tag or stamping and the equipment type and model numbers that are on it. Failure to do this may results in you not receiving any accurate help with your problem.
Many of the tech's that hang out here work in or have there own shops and the first thing they do when they make up a work order on a unit is include the engine and equipment numbers on the work order. Since this technical forum is offered free to the public, it's the least we can ask you to do, so please help all of us out.
L
Lawnranger
I did not check the small terminals with a volt meter but did check with tester and the bulb lit up on both small lines. I jumped across the terminals and the motor spun so I determined the solenoid was bad and invested ten bucks and replaced it. It didn't work. I will be able to check with a volt meter tomorrow. The 20 amp circuit breaker ohmed out ok. I looks to me like the culprit is either the hand brake switch, the arm switch, or the ignition switch. What is your suggestion going forward.
Start with the seat switch. Inspect the harness connector at the switch and tell me if there is a wire/cable tie holding the harness connector to the switch. If there is no cable tie proceed by removing the connector from the switch and inspect the end of the connector very, very carefully as you will be looking for a small odd shaped plunger that is actually a mirco switch in the end of the plastic harness connector. Some machines use them, some do not. If this harness connector backs out of the seat switch, even just a little bit, you may experience a no-start condition. The fix is to make sure the electrical connectors are clean & tight and then install the connector all the way on the seat switch. Next, use a wire/cable tie to secure the connector to the seat switch to prevent the problem from occurring again. This should not take you more than a couple of minutes to diagnose and fix so I'm starting with the simplest solution first. If this does not fix the problem then proceed to the safety switches in the system by removing and testing them one at a time using an ohm meter.
Post your results when finished with the tests.
I'm going to add the following:
Since this is a help forum, it is only fair that the people trying to answer questions have some information to work with, so they can give an accurate answer. This helps them if they need to research parts or service information on your engine or equipment. In the first part of your post please include your engine numbers from the ID tag or stamping and the equipment type and model numbers that are on it. Failure to do this may results in you not receiving any accurate help with your problem.
Many of the tech's that hang out here work in or have there own shops and the first thing they do when they make up a work order on a unit is include the engine and equipment numbers on the work order. Since this technical forum is offered free to the public, it's the least we can ask you to do, so please help all of us out.
#11
J
jb3b
Sorry for the oversight Lawnranger. The mower is a Snapper Zero Turn ZT1844OKH with a 18HP Kohler Command engine, Model CV493, ser #3531604621.
J
jb3b
Start with the seat switch. Inspect the harness connector at the switch and tell me if there is a wire/cable tie holding the harness connector to the switch. If there is no cable tie proceed by removing the connector from the switch and inspect the end of the connector very, very carefully as you will be looking for a small odd shaped plunger that is actually a mirco switch in the end of the plastic harness connector. Some machines use them, some do not. If this harness connector backs out of the seat switch, even just a little bit, you may experience a no-start condition. The fix is to make sure the electrical connectors are clean & tight and then install the connector all the way on the seat switch. Next, use a wire/cable tie to secure the connector to the seat switch to prevent the problem from occurring again. This should not take you more than a couple of minutes to diagnose and fix so I'm starting with the simplest solution first. If this does not fix the problem then proceed to the safety switches in the system by removing and testing them one at a time using an ohm meter.
Post your results when finished with the tests.
I'm going to add the following:
Since this is a help forum, it is only fair that the people trying to answer questions have some information to work with, so they can give an accurate answer. This helps them if they need to research parts or service information on your engine or equipment. In the first part of your post please include your engine numbers from the ID tag or stamping and the equipment type and model numbers that are on it. Failure to do this may results in you not receiving any accurate help with your problem.
Many of the tech's that hang out here work in or have there own shops and the first thing they do when they make up a work order on a unit is include the engine and equipment numbers on the work order. Since this technical forum is offered free to the public, it's the least we can ask you to do, so please help all of us out.
Sorry for the oversight Lawnranger. The mower is a Snapper Zero Turn ZT1844OKH with a 18HP Kohler Command engine, Model CV493, ser #3531604621.
#12
L
Lawnranger
This information helps out everyone involved, thank you.
L
Lawnranger
Sorry for the oversight Lawnranger. The mower is a Snapper Zero Turn ZT1844OKH with a 18HP Kohler Command engine, Model CV493, ser #3531604621.
This information helps out everyone involved, thank you.
#13
J
jb3b
I got it running lawnranger. After I checked all the switches I put everything back together and tried to start it, nothing happened. I turned ther switch key two or three times and it started trying to crank and would'nt stop. I jumped off and finally got the battery cable off. everytime I tried to reconnect the cable it started trying to crank again. I decided it had to be a bad ignition switch or the new solenoid I put on was bad so I exchanged the solenoid and installed a new switch. This corrected the problem but listen to this. The motor will turn over when I have the choke in the off position but when I put the choke in the choke position it won't do anything. I can start it by turning the key to the start position while the choke is off and rapidly moving the choke lever to choke position. I'm unaware that anything in the electrical system is in anyway connected to the choke. I'm just glad it is working. I have a new problem that has cropped up. When the mower died I turned the hydraulic release valves counterclockwise to dis-engage them in order to move it from the lawn into the garage. After I finally got it cranked I attempted to cut some grass only to find that the right wheel has no power but the left wheel is fine. Prior to all of this happening the right wheel was the more powerful. Now there is just enough power on the right to keep you from going in a circle. All of the pulling power is on the left. The fluid level is fine and the release valves have been re-engaged. Is there any kind of adjustments that can be made to get more power on the right? I did notice that the right release valve was hard to turn and wouldn't open the full two turns suggested by the manufacturer and it was hard to turn the other way to re-engage. If you've got any suggestions on anything I would love to hear them. Thank you for your help on the cranking problem, it encouraged me to tackle the problem and save a good bit of money to say nothing of what I learned.
J
jb3b
This information helps out everyone involved, thank you.
I got it running lawnranger. After I checked all the switches I put everything back together and tried to start it, nothing happened. I turned ther switch key two or three times and it started trying to crank and would'nt stop. I jumped off and finally got the battery cable off. everytime I tried to reconnect the cable it started trying to crank again. I decided it had to be a bad ignition switch or the new solenoid I put on was bad so I exchanged the solenoid and installed a new switch. This corrected the problem but listen to this. The motor will turn over when I have the choke in the off position but when I put the choke in the choke position it won't do anything. I can start it by turning the key to the start position while the choke is off and rapidly moving the choke lever to choke position. I'm unaware that anything in the electrical system is in anyway connected to the choke. I'm just glad it is working. I have a new problem that has cropped up. When the mower died I turned the hydraulic release valves counterclockwise to dis-engage them in order to move it from the lawn into the garage. After I finally got it cranked I attempted to cut some grass only to find that the right wheel has no power but the left wheel is fine. Prior to all of this happening the right wheel was the more powerful. Now there is just enough power on the right to keep you from going in a circle. All of the pulling power is on the left. The fluid level is fine and the release valves have been re-engaged. Is there any kind of adjustments that can be made to get more power on the right? I did notice that the right release valve was hard to turn and wouldn't open the full two turns suggested by the manufacturer and it was hard to turn the other way to re-engage. If you've got any suggestions on anything I would love to hear them. Thank you for your help on the cranking problem, it encouraged me to tackle the problem and save a good bit of money to say nothing of what I learned.
#14
L
Lawnranger
L
Lawnranger
Lets look at the choke/starting issue first. Follow the choke cable from the carburetor all the way back to the dash board of the mower. If your fuel tank is in the way, remove the retaining device(s) and get it out of the way so you can see the routing of the cable. Make absolutely sure the choke cable does not come in contact with any electrical wiring. The choke is strictly mechanical and has no electrical connection as far as I know and have seen. If you see any contact of the choke cable with the wiring harness, look for a rub through of the wiring insulation and correct the problem. Make sure to operate the choke and watch the cable/housing as you cycle the choke through its full movement. This is a strange problem and I sure want to know what is causing this issue. :confused3:
Now on to the hydro pumps. If all you did was disengage and reengage the pumps, try doing the same again. Maybe the threads on the release valves need some spray penetrating oil/lubricant? Sorry, not familiar with that type hydro pump.
I have seen where the engine continues to crank even when the key is released to the run position and it turned out to be a defective solenoid where the internal contacts were not releasing. Good job fixing it.
Now on to the hydro pumps. If all you did was disengage and reengage the pumps, try doing the same again. Maybe the threads on the release valves need some spray penetrating oil/lubricant? Sorry, not familiar with that type hydro pump.
I have seen where the engine continues to crank even when the key is released to the run position and it turned out to be a defective solenoid where the internal contacts were not releasing. Good job fixing it.