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Snapper Big Mow Pulley nut

Mar 12, 2024#1

L

lavatan

Hello everyone,

This is my first time posting here and I've run into a bit of a problem. I have a Big Mow (the three wheel zero turn kind) and the engine blew up so now I need to replace the crank and all the other rotating parts. But I can't find the socket that would work on the nut. The engine I have has a pulley on both top and bottom. The top pulley runs the drive belt to the front wheel and the clearance to the nut is very small the standard socket will not fit. Does anyone know what socket I need to remove this nut?

Mar 12, 2024#2

StarTech

Especially in the case of the starter clutch being in a recess hole you will need the 19244 Starter Clutch Wrench tool, pull bar, socket, and a strap wrench.

Mar 12, 2024#3

L

lavatan

I already have this tool but it will not fit between the pulley and the clutch. Is there an alternative tool that has smaller "teeth"?

Mar 12, 2024#4

StarTech

That is the only one listed in the Briggs tool catalog I have. Post the model, type, and date code numbers and someone with Briggs access should be able see if Briggs has another tool. Also post the Snapper model number as it might be in its parts list.

Mar 12, 2024#5

L

lavatan

I will do that when I get home this afternoon.

Mar 12, 2024#6

L

lavatan

I forgot that I took pictures of the engine model and code.

Model: 195707
Type: 0430 E1
Code: 981015YD

I'll get the model of the Big Mow when I get home.

Mar 13, 2024#7

L

lavatan

The chassis is a 1999-2000 Swisher 32" Big Mow. That's all the information I have on it.

Mar 13, 2024#8

Hammermechanicman

You might get the briggs 19114 wrench to fit. It is out of production. You could get a piece of flat stock and drill 2 holes in it and use a couple grade 5 or 8 bolts and use it like a pin spanner to remove the clutch.

Mar 13, 2024#9

StarTech

Hammermechanicman said:
You might get the briggs 19114 wrench to fit. It is out of production. You could get a piece of flat stock and drill 2 holes in it and use a couple grade 5 or 8 bolts and use it like a pin spanner to remove the clutch.

I thought that too about making and using a pin wrench. I think OP problem is probably a clearance issue between the starter clutch and that cup it is in.

Mar 13, 2024#10

S

SeniorCitizen

A Vernier caliper can be bought for as little a 8 bucks and they are useful for numerous measurements . A digital more expensive is handy too .

Mar 13, 2024#11

Hammermechanicman

If he didn't care about the old clutch housing a chisel and a hammer and about 30 seconds and problem solved

Mar 13, 2024#12

R

Rivets

Some idiot DIY guy should have a doctor do a lobotomy on himself. Willing to bet he used the starter cup to replace the bevel washer when he installed the starter clutch.
If it can to me and the customer wanted it repaired, I would do the following.
1. Remove the coil and put a strap wrench around the flywheel.
2. Either cut a piece of wood or take a large punch to get at the clutch ears, or remove the cover and starter bearings to get at the heavier internal clutch body.
3. Holding the flywheel I would try pounding the starter clutch body Counterclockwise to loosen the clutch body.
I know this is a little off base, but sometimes you need to think out of the box. If you do ruin the body they are still available, but don’t reuse the starter cup, get the proper washer.

Mar 13, 2024#13

L

lavatan

Rivets said:
Some idiot DIY guy should have a doctor do a lobotomy on himself. Willing to bet he used the starter cup to replace the bevel washer when he installed the starter clutch.
If it can to me and the customer wanted it repaired, I would do the following.
1. Remove the coil and put a strap wrench around the flywheel.
2. Either cut a piece of wood or take a large punch to get at the clutch ears, or remove the cover and starter bearings to get at the heavier internal clutch body.
3. Holding the flywheel I would try pounding the starter clutch body Counterclockwise to loosen the clutch body.
I know this is a little off base, but sometimes you need to think out of the box. If you do ruin the body they are still available, but don’t reuse the starter cup, get the proper washer.

I haven't done anything "DIY" on the motor. I assume you haven't seen a motor that has a pully on both the top and bottom. The top is for the front drive wheel of the mower. The bottom pulley is for the blades. I suppose I could modify the 19244 tool to fit in the space but I've always been of the opinion the right tool for the right job if one exists. If not, that's what I'll do. By the way, Rivets, you should read the entire thread before jumping to conclusions.

Here is the mower that I'm talking about by the way.

Mar 13, 2024#14

Hammermechanicman

What does the underside of the recoil housing look like? Does it use the ratchet (square hole) ?

Mar 13, 2024#15

L

lavatan

Hammermechanicman said:
View attachment 68037

What does the underside of the recoil housing look like? Does it use the ratchet (square hole) ?

Yes, it does.

Mar 13, 2024#16

Hammermechanicman

I am confused..... you say it has a pulley on the top of the engine to drive the front wheel. Does it have a pull rope start or electric? I don't understand how it has a belt pulley and a rope recoil on the engine.

Mar 13, 2024#17

Fish

Whoever put that on really didn't want to drive to town to buy a damn nut!!!

Hammer and chisel, try to move it ccw.

Mar 13, 2024#18

L

lavatan

Hammermechanicman said:
I am confused..... you say it has a pulley on the top of the engine to drive the front wheel. Does it have a pull rope start or electric? I don't understand how it has a belt pulley and a rope recoil on the engine.

It actually has both a rope pull and an electric start. I would have to assume that the housing for the rope pull sits higher than normal to clear the pulley. I didn't really pay attention to that part as I'm trying to remove the crank but I need to be able to remove these parts first.

Mar 13, 2024#19

L

lavatan

Fish said:
Whoever put that on really didn't want to drive to town to buy a damn nut!!!

Hammer and chisel, try to move it ccw.

As far as I know it came from the factory this way.

Mar 13, 2024#20

R

Rivets

Lavatan, I’ve worked on more small engine equipment in one month than you have in your entire life. Who ever installed a starter clutch inside a starter cup should never be allowed to use tools. If you feel that everything was installed properly, then ignore my post. If you look at and understand the picture Hammer posted, you will see two different starting systems were used on that engine. Some idiot combined the two setups. I doubt you will find that that setup has never been seen or used by any of the experienced techs on this site. If it were, someone could provide you with the tool to remove it. Haven’t see that yet, but there is a 1% chance I’m wrong. Believe what you want, it’s your unit.

Mar 13, 2024#21

L

lavatan

Rivets said:
Lavatan, I’ve worked on more small engine equipment in one month than you have in your entire life. Who ever installed a starter clutch inside a starter cup should never be allowed to use tools. If you feel that everything was installed properly, then ignore my post. If you look at and understand the picture Hammer posted, you will see two different starting systems were used on that engine. Some idiot combined the two setups. I doubt you will find that that setup has never been seen or used by any of the experienced techs on this site. If it were, someone could provide you with the tool to remove it. Haven’t see that yet, but there is a 1% chance I’m wrong. Believe what you want, it’s your unit.

First of all, that is not a starter cup. Apparently you don't read the posts. It is a pulley to drive the front wheel of the mower. I have looked at that briggs and stratton diagram, and yes, it does show two motors. Don't you think it's within the realm of possibility that Swisher decided to alter the motor for their particular lawnmower?

For further clarification, the belt runs around two pulleys under the hood. There is a tensioner connected to the pedal which, in turn, tensions the belt which then turns a gearbox that turns a chain that goes down the front wheel. It has a 360* turning radius so no reverse. You turn the wheel 180* to go backwards.

Mar 13, 2024#22

L

lavatan

Also, if this is the wrong section to be posting this please move it to the correct subforum. I didn't see Swisher listed as a brand and thought that Snapper had bought them in the past but I might be wrong.

Mar 13, 2024#23

Fish

I searched around for a parts list online, more results under Swisher. But no manual. Do you have any books on it?

Mar 13, 2024#24

R

Rivets

If that is not a starter clutch and starter cup in your post #1, all the experienced techs on this site will be jumping all over my butt. Until then I stand by what I posted.

Mar 13, 2024#25

Fish

Can you give a pic of it from the side, so we can see the side of the pulley?

Mar 13, 2024#26

L

lavatan

Fish said:
I searched around for a parts list online, more results under Swisher. But no manual. Do you have any books on it?

I do not have any books on this unfortunately.

Mar 13, 2024#27

L

lavatan

Fish said:
Can you give a pic of it from the side, so we can see the side of the pulley?

I will take a picture tonight when I get home from work.

Mar 13, 2024#28

Fish

Also a pic or two of the top cover of the engine?

Mar 13, 2024#29

L

lavatan

Fish said:
Also a pic or two of the top cover of the engine?

Can do.

Mar 13, 2024#30

Hammermechanicman

Swisher has done some weird shi..... stuff. So I wouldn't put it past them.

Mar 13, 2024#31

Hammermechanicman

This may clear things up a little

Mar 13, 2024#32

L

lavatan

Hammermechanicman said:
This may clear things up a little

This is a predecessor to the Big Mow but the principle is the same. Like the guy said it has a pulley on the top to drive those belts. It's the same for my newer mower. My grandparents had one of these before they bought the Big Mow I have now.

Mar 13, 2024#33

L

lavatan

Here are the pictures.

Mar 13, 2024#34

S

slomo

Didn't read all this. Make you own tool to fit. This ain't the space program. Might visit a local school welding shop. Muffler shops can weld small projects. Have one at a muffler shop right now.

Mar 13, 2024#35

R

Rivets

I’m wrong, it is a starter pulley made for swisher to be used on a Briggs engine. If you would have posted a better view it would have been easier to see. Swisher part number is TE32B. My instructions for removing the Briggs starter clutch is the same, except you need to hold the pulley, not the flywheel, to remove the clutch housing. Star, I definitely need that part number now, come on throw me a bone.

Mar 13, 2024#36

StarTech

Then you really would have a problem to know I used a half liter of the plum to marinate a boneless pork lion that I be cooking tomorrow. Oh my I just had put back in my brain after my lips smacked it out after cooking a test piece to make I didn't use too much. You be surprise how much that changes that boring piece of meat.

Mar 15, 2024#37

M

Mow Joe

I'm betting it was installed with a tool like this.