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I have a Simplicity Coronet, Model 1693305 with a Briggs 13HP engine with a model # 28M707. Battery will not charge. I have put 3 new batteries in and after 3 or 4 mows the battery is dead. A voltage (DC) read at battery (12.5V) while not running is same voltage (12.5DC) while throttled up. There are two wires from Stator (red and black) with the red have a diode at the end. AC voltage before the diode reads about 40 volts AC at high RPM's and about 12 volts AC after the diode. I was told by a shop that it has a bad regulator but I can't find the regulator on the engine/mower. He said it would be on the right side of the engine but nothing there but the muffler.I tested the diode and it shows current flow one way as it's supposed to and none the other. Could the diode be bad? I can't imagine getting 3 bad batteries in a row over the last year.
Thanks for any help

Do you have voltage between the prong that the red wire plugs into and the battery.

I guess I'm not able to check that voltage as I'm replacing the diode. I have my doubts that changing the diode will matter but that my next attempt.

I put another diode on. The red wire along with a black wire comes from the stator and plugs into a white connector. The red wire from that white connector then turns to a red/white wire that goes to the ignition switch. The black wire from the stator stops at the white connector. I checked the volts DC at the red/white wire at the switch and it was 12.4V

Full throttle is low . 13.5 to 14.5 is more like it . Wondering if you have a bad ground causing the battery not to charge .

Is it safe or tell me anything if I were to start engine then disconect the battery terminals and check voltage at the cables while throttled up?

Amps charge batterys, volts dont.
Does your multimeter have a 10 amp socket where your red lead can plug in and amps dc on the dial?
You also say you have replaced the diode. Did you fit it the right way?

Yes,, My Fluke checks amps and I have the diode replaced properly with same results.

You have a 2-4 amp charging system.
Disconnect white connector. Put red meter lead to 10 amp slot. Connect other end to diode wire from engine.
Turn dial to amps dc. Put black meter wire to battery live (not earth). Start and run engine. reading should be between 2-4 amps dc.
If there is problem is on tractor. if not its diode or stator.
Hope this helps...

Can I add my opinion. After reading the post I have two questions. Have you checked the voltage at the battery while the engine is running 3/4 throttle. As pug said it should be between 13.5-14.5V. If you have this your battery is being charged. If not you have a stator and/or diode problem. Just because you replaced the diode does not mean it is not bad. I have tested diodes hooked to the stator, following Briggs test procedures and they test good, but after removing and isolating them they test bad.

Checked the amp DC and it was 2.45 at full throttle.
Thanks for the help.

I got to looking a little closer and the neutral safety switch (purple and yellow wire) had been tied together to bypass that switch. Could it be the regulator had been removed since the black wire coming from the stator goes nowhere else after the white connector.