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I have a scag wildcat (SMWC-61v) with a Kawasaki 26 hp liquid (Fd731v). I’ve owned the mower for 3 years and it has mowed like a hoss until this season. The mower will start and run in good order. I’ll engage pto and will mow for several minutes then lose power and die if pto not disengaged in time.
1st action taken -replaced every moving part on the mower deck(pulleys(5) idler arm bearings(2) spindles(3)belts(2). -thought bearings heating up and seizing because when I remove the mower deck belt from the electric clutch, it will run with the pto engaged all day without any problems. (With no load)
2nd action taken - verified all safety switches working properly, all fuel system verified and working properly. All air system cleaned and verified.
3rd action taken- I found 12.6 volts DC across battery terminals regardless of rpm’s
4th action taken- verified 42 volts AC from stator, replaced 20 amp fuse (2) and fuse holder (2) in line on charging system.
5th action taken- removed and cleaned engine ground connections and replaced voltage regulator.
All action items above resulted in no change .

I thought it might be possible to run a new conductor from voltage regulator output directly to positive side battery but
I don’t have 13.5 -15 volts DC at any output from voltage regulator or any conductor in the system. Will 13-15 volts DC be present in the system anywhere besides across the battery terminals.?
I’m thinking a bad conductor in one of the harnesses but everything I know to check has proper voltage if any voltage present.
this has been going on for months and I’ve done all I know to do.
I will be eternally grateful if someone can provide me with a solution.
Thank you

thebuildingguy said:

I have a scag wildcat (SMWC-61v) with a Kawasaki 26 hp liquid (Fd731v). I’ve owned the mower for 3 years and it has mowed like a hoss until this season. The mower will start and run in good order. I’ll engage pto and will mow for several minutes then lose power and die if pto not disengaged in time.

3rd action taken- I found 12.6 volts DC across battery terminals regardless of rpm’s
4th action taken- verified 42 volts AC from stator, replaced 20 amp fuse (2) and fuse holder (2) in line on charging system.

Click to expand...

thebuildingguy said:

I don’t have 13.5 -15 volts DC at any output from voltage regulator or any conductor in the system. Will 13-15 volts DC be present in the system anywhere besides across the battery terminals.?

Click to expand...

Each of these indicate it's not charging. Does it blow the regulator output or battery fuse?

You may know this (specs for yours might be different) but Kawasaki manual states:

Stator Coil Resistance
•Disconnect the connector [A].
•Measure the stator coil resistance.
(Electric Starter Model)
○Connect an ohmmeter between stator pins .
Stator Coil Resistance (Electric Starter Model) 0.01 to 0.1 Ω
If the measured value is not within the specification, re- place the stator coil with a new one.
If the coil has normal resistance, but the voltage inspection shows the alternator to be defective; the flywheel magnets have probably weakened, and the flywheel must be replaced.
Check for continuity between each stator pin and ground. There should be no continuity (infinite ohm).
If the stator coil fails any of these tests, replace the coil with a new one.

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Check your charging coil resistance to ground. On my 19 HP Ferris with similar symptoms, it measure that to be nearly 0Ω to ground.

HTH
-fabrice

From the FD731 service manual.