Engine: Kawasaki fh641v
Google tells me this is a 21 hp verticle engine
I think the year of purchase was 2012
Got it with a wire jerry rigged to bypass the key switch. Touching the wires together to put power on the solenoid does spin the engine over but when i put a screwdriver in the plug wire it doesnt spark when in close proximity to a ground while attempting to start.
I haven't tested the coil becasue i assume that the safety switchs' circuit is the problem and the reason key switch bypass was needed.
I checked the safety switches hat i could find;
1. The seat switch provides continuity when engaged.
2. The 4 wire clutch switch tested bad. I opened it up and could see that it allowed continuity across the 2 white wires and also across the two black. I jumpered those together. I.e. White to white and black to black
Symptoms remained unchanged.
Open questions;
Is there another safety on the switch used to engage the blades and is there one on the transmission shifter. If so, how can i locate and test these?
Alternately, what can i do (short term) to bypass all of it and get the mower working? Grass is getting high and a shop will take too long
Remove the kill wire on the key switch (M) its a Black wire, then see if you have spark, remember if you do go for a start up you need power to the shut off solenoid valve. if still no spark, then its a safety switch or bad wiring, check again the PTO safety switch, Seat safety switch and the Clutch/brake switch. remember there are two black wires on the key switch one is for ground (G) on the key switch. if you get spark by removing the wire from the key switch, you will know its a bad key switch and needs to be renewed.
The pto switch has 9 wires and i am not sire how to test it so if you can give guidance on that it will be much appreciated
You made mention of a kill switch solenoid which i havent see or heard of but am capable of powering it once it is located. The starter solenoid is the only one i see but the engine top shroud is still on.
Similar to the pto switch, the ignition switch has a lot of wires going to it. I pulled the switch, removed the pair of black wires from the plug with a paperclip and then reinstalled the plug to the switch now minus the black wires but still no fire.
I didn't separate the black wires from one another but they had no contact with anything else for the test.
I found a black and red wire disconnected and tested prior to connecting but landed the red on the battery which makes a solenoid click in bottom of the carb bowl. And the black i landed to the battery ground with no effect nor change to the lack of fire.
For what its worth, all tests are with the key in on position
I suspect it is bad since this doesnt seem to drain the battery when left for long periods in on position
#6
EngineMan
See if you have power at (85) on the operator presence relay and that the relay is working, (seat occupied) points (A + D) on the PTO switch are the kill wires, the two blacks on the clutch/brake pedal are also kill wires, do you have a schematic..?
PTO switch is only showing six wires on the schematic, post back with the colors of the wires you see, there should be two whites, two reds, and two blacks.
#7
EngineMan
The fuel solenoid that I was talking about is on the carb..!
Thanks for the drawing!!!!
With it I was able to determine that the power wire from solenoid to key switch was not connected at the solenoid.
I performed the test on the PTO switch which showed it was bad.
Pulled it out and tested each of the NC to the corresponding common terminals and found one faulty.
Will get a new PTO switch and follow up with you after installed and testing resumes.
OKie dokie,
He's the lo-down on my machine. Replacing the PTO switch allowed for normal activation of the starter via key switch.
A few tweaks to the safety switch wiring and I had fire to the plug again and was able to run while squirting fuel in the carb but dies after I stop.
Pulled the carb and connected the fuel inlet to the hose from the tank (bypassing the pump) and, with the bowl removed, there was no fuel flow through the float valve. PUlled the float, blew the obstruction out and rested making sure that the flow also stopped with the float in the up position.
Reinstalled, couple of squirts of Petro for good measure and started her up.
Purrs like she did when new.
Thanks again to you EngineMan for the skematic and suggestions. You have saved me both Time and money!
Cheers!
Jim
#12
EngineMan
You are welcome, and thanks for the feedback which is always welcome here..! good luck and happy mowing.
