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1 Anyone replace this bearing without removing the axle housing.
2 Is it a press fit or slip fit bearing.

yes i have done it , yes its a pressed fit . no you have too remove the outer case (final drive)
you can buy the case with the bearing in it already, and put the final drive parts in the new case
the guy from the dealer told me it took specal tools to put the bearing in to the case and
it could leak oil

JUST4FUN said:

yes i have done it , yes its a pressed fit . no you have too remove the outer case (final drive)
you can buy the case with the bearing in it already, and put the final drive parts in the new case
the guy from the dealer told me it took specal tools to put the bearing in to the case and
it could leak oil

Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. I was referring to it being pressed or slip fit on the axle....I should have been more specific,... but you answered my question anyway.

Sense I posted I had called a dealer also, & they told me the same except they didn't mention the special tools. I'll see what it needs when I get it apart. If I don't have anything that'll work, or can't make, I have a friend with a Machine Shop,...then there's also the Dealership or my spare parts mower with bearing already in the case now that I know a little of what I'm up against. Thanks again.

Well I went to a friends Transmission shop & that (my) bearing wasn't pressed into the housing. After removing the outer & inner snap rings we took a rubber mallet & tapped on the splined end & it slipped out easy. Put the axle in the press & the bearing came off easy to the point he said its the gook on the shaft that held it on ...& cleaned the shaft. Didn't need to mess with the middle snap ring during all of this. Put the axle in the housing, put the (inner) thrust washer & thrust bearing back in then the snap ring. The snap ring was a little loose removed it & gave it a slight crimp with pliers & put it back on. The biggest deal was the right tubing size for installing the new seal down in the housing before you put the new outer bearing in. The outer bear just slipped right in, snap ring & was done.

Biggest problem is they (the dealership) wants $95+ for a gallon of Tans fluid & I said ahhh ..no ...that's Crazy. I got some research to do on Hyd fluid.

This is a before pic.

Update: Well I was putting it back together last Thursday & ...not sure why,(at the time) ...but now it seems all the guts (primary & secondary planetarys) want quite fit when you put the housing to the motor. The housing stops roughly 1/16" before mating up to the motor, & I didn't want to force it by tightening it up. I think the axle housing should mate to the motor without binding.

A friend said "you've got something out of line" I know he meant that in general,...& I said you "can't get any of it out of line" the way it fits up.

Well sense the outer bearing is a slip fit on the axle the axle slides in & out of it,...so that doesn't appear to be the interference. So, ...for some answers,...I mic'd the thickness of the washer that's behind the Thrust Bearing and its .095". I removed that & put every thing back in the axle housing then put the housing on the motor ( & it seats right ) with gasket & just snugged the screws. Measured the outer axle end play & its .070". That's .025" to much material with the .095" washer, for everything to fit.

Where did the extra .025" come from,...beats me, but its there now somehow & I have to deal with it.

If I can't find out where/why,...it looks like I'm going to have to find/grind a .085" washer & have .010" axle end play when I'm done. Murphy's a devious little feller.

Was the old bearing Imperial and the new one Metric...?
Is the thickness in item's No 12 the same has item No 2...?
One of them may have gone back the wrong way round..! just a thought.
or as you say, you can fit a 070" shim.

EngineMan said:

Was the old bearing Imperial and the new one Metric...?
Is the thickness in item's No 12 the same has item No 2...?
One of them may have gone back the wrong way round..! just a thought.
or as you say, you can fit a 070" shim.

Click to expand...

I don't think the bearing width will make any difference as long as it fits between its "seat" & its outer snap ring, cause its a slip fit on the axle. Fwiw,...it is made in China "dangit", ...& I've been meaning to measure the old & new. Edit: old bearing .590" wide...New .588".

Item 12 is the Thrust bearing assembly, & its a lot thicker but I haven't measured it yet.

Item 2 is the .095" washer,....& I do appreciate any thoughts anyone may have on this till I get it fixed.

When & if I find out why it "supposedly grew" 25 thou,...it will be embarrassingly simple.



Also,...I was just in the "thinking room":laughing: & realized that Murphy "done gone & crawled up between ma ears", It would take a .060 washer to give me .010" end play, in a .070" space.

Up date: I got my new .095" washer in today & it mic'd to about .091". Took it to a machine shop & had it surface ground to .055", (decided to add another 5 thou for good measure). Put everything back together & it has .016" end play,...but I haven't torqued the axle housing bolts yet.

Fwiw: Trying to put the new axle seal in with a flat end punch (cause the axle's in there too) will test your patience! I looked around for a 1.5" tubing & I could not find anything,...then I saw my old dead battery's 3D cell flashlight & said ....Hmmmm.... & it measured ~ 1.495"...Hay, Hay, Hay. Unscrewed the butt & took out the battery's,...unscrewed the head & took out the bulb, put back the bare aluminum piece & its pretty thin walled,... but worked just fine. Used a rubber mallet on the bulb end.

Re: ?'s on Gemini 771 outer axle bearing/Up-date

Its been a wk or 2 & seems to be fine so far. I put the old fluid back in till I know everything's OK, then I'll put the new Mobil DTE 10 Excel 100 in & new filters.

Next Time it needs an "outer" axle bearing replaced I'll attempt it without removing the housing, (unless there's hardened gunk on the axle shaft hindering it's removal,...etc.)...cause...

... only the "inner" bearing was pressed in. The one not shown or listed with an Item number in the explosive views,...but is mentioned with Item 1 ..."Axle Housing-High Thrust BRG". I believe this is the one that's pressed & needing "Special" tools. I knew I should have taken a pic of it while it was apart,...dangit!

Pic of roughly where the "High Thrust BRG" is

...cheap Drive Hub (axle flange) puller.

Re: ?'s on Gemini 771 outer axle bearing/Up-date

thehemikid said:

Its been a wk or 2 & seems to be fine so far. I put the old fluid back in till I know everything's OK, then I'll put the new Mobil DTE 10 Excel 100 in & new filters.

Next Time it needs an "outer" axle bearing replaced I'll attempt it without removing the housing, (unless there's hardened gunk on the axle shaft hindering it's removal,...etc.)...cause...

... only the "inner" bearing was pressed in. The one not shown or listed with an Item number in the explosive views,...but is mentioned with Item 1 ..."Axle Housing-High Thrust BRG". I believe this is the one that's pressed & needing "Special" tools. I knew I should have taken a pic of it while it was apart,...dangit!

Pic of roughly where the "High Thrust BRG" is

Click to expand...

The two holes that is where the trans mounts to the tractor with the block and bolts are used to pull the flange off

That's cool, :thumbsup:... I have no Shop Manuals & did not see this info anywhere, didn't notice the hole spacing on the block was the same as the drive hub flange. I'm usually curious enough to find things like that but didn't, & I'll have to check that out sometime. Would have been nice to have known at the time, ...I wouldn't of had to make a puller,...

but also,... now that I have,... & now that I know that my outer bearing "may" come out without having to remove the axle housing. I can pull the flange as soon as the tire/wheel is off,... replace the outer bearing & never have to take the block & bolts off to use for a puller.

Which brings me to another ?. I assume that if this block is also a puller that it would be easier if the long bolts go in from the bottom. Mine were in from the top, ...but if they were in from the bottom, & they were to come loose, then they could fall out, of which they couldn't from the top. That's why I put mine back in from the top, ...even though its a little aggravating with the Traction Spring.

I have a model 720 that is leaking fluid from the left side. I see no seal in your diagram. Is the bearing a sealed one?
Thanks

Sorry I didn't see your post sooner, I've been busy with other things.

There is a seal (#5 in diagram) between the outer axle bearing & the snap ring that's in its grove on the axle.

Thanks.
I bought this mower this fall. It works great, just started leaking a little on the left side. I think it will be a tough mower!