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New here. Just bought my first zero turn. I have noticed that it was movnig a little slow for about 100 feet and then it would function fine. Now, it just moves slow or not at all. I checked the drive belt and it was shot so I replaced it yesterday. Still the same. I went to Tractor Supply and they did not carry a Cub Cadet belt so I had to get the cheap generic one. Could that be my problem? I searched the forums and have seen mulitple posts about bad transmissions but can not believe that both went out at the same time. I didn't think to check the idler pulley and will do that tonight. I am a pretty good wrench so I will tackle about anything I need to. I just don't want to get into more than I have to with out good information to back it up.

My old belt measured 58". The best I could tell what I needed from the belt guide at TSC was a 57". Does anyone know what the correct belt is? My model number is:RZT 22 17AA5A7P712 Serial number: 1D164G20085. Also, can someone tell me what year this is by the numbers. I haven't been able to locate a decoder online yet.

Thanks!

did you check the fluid level in the hydros?, also what did it look like(dark color, dirty. if it has filters on the hydros, they may need changing. had a hydro on a snapper zero turn that was sluggish until the fluid and the filter was changed(need a 10 micron filter for them). after that it was wizz-bang-away we go. try: "lawnandgarden.freemaualsonline.com". you may find a manual for your equipment there

snapsstorer said:

did you check the fluid level in the hydros?, also what did it look like(dark color, dirty. if it has filters on the hydros, they may need changing. had a hydro on a snapper zero turn that was sluggish until the fluid and the filter was changed(need a 10 micron filter for them). after that it was wizz-bang-away we go. try: "lawnandgarden.freemaualsonline.com". you may find a manual for your equipment there

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The hydros are 'non serviceable' There are no filters, no drain plugs, and no filler holes. They are a sealed unit. Now...There is a valve on the unit that can be removed to drain fluid and a vent tube to refill. But you have to do it slowly and manually rotate the hydro to work the air out. Or so I was told by a local dealer. He said he would do it for $150. As cheap as I am, I am going to let him do it mostly because I don't have the time to mess with it and the grass has not stopped grwoing last I checked. I am hoping that this does the trick

Ironhead Dave said:

New here. Just bought my first zero turn. I have noticed that it was movnig a little slow for about 100 feet and then it would function fine. Now, it just moves slow or not at all. I checked the drive belt and it was shot so I replaced it yesterday. Still the same. I went to Tractor Supply and they did not carry a Cub Cadet belt so I had to get the cheap generic one. Could that be my problem? I searched the forums and have seen mulitple posts about bad transmissions but can not believe that both went out at the same time. I didn't think to check the idler pulley and will do that tonight. I am a pretty good wrench so I will tackle about anything I need to. I just don't want to get into more than I have to with out good information to back it up.

My old belt measured 58". The best I could tell what I needed from the belt guide at TSC was a 57". Does anyone know what the correct belt is? My model number is:RZT 22 17AA5A7P712 Serial number: 1D164G20085. Also, can someone tell me what year this is by the numbers. I haven't been able to locate a decoder online yet.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Whe you say "just bought" was the Cub RZT new or used?? If new, why wouldn't this be "warranty work"...if used, you bought someone else's problem:0(
If used you're probably gonna be out some $ before it's fixed:0(

UPDATE-I found it funny that they both went out at the same time. I replaced belts, etc. all the normal stuff. I even went to the extreme of taking one out and dismantling it completely and found nothing wrong. No wear, no pieces of metal, nothing.

Last ditch effort I called Cub Cadet and actually got through to a transmission tech guy. Told him the story. He told me that it was more than likely that the oil broke down and didn't have enough viscosity to build pressure. The 'drain' plug is on the top next to the vent tube so you have to pull the trans to drain it. Next he said to use 10W-40 synthetic engine oil as it is 'the same thing as the Cub Cadet dry lube' but half the price. Fill it to about 1" below the drain hole to allow for expansion and re-install the trans.

Next pull the bypass rods to disengage the tranny and start the machine. At full throttle, push/pull the lap bars for a minute or so to bleed the air out of the system and then re-engage the trans.

Worked like a charm! It is better than ever!

Thought I'd post to maybe save someone else the heartache and money of replacing theirs. A coulple of hours and abut $25 fixed mine!