Sorry if this thread already exists, but I searched and couldn't find one. I have a series 3 Snapper RER where both axle boots have cracked and split. I had downloaded a copy of the Series 3 Snapper Service Manual from their website several years ago; it has directions for removing and servicing the differential and chain case, but not for axle boot replacement specifically. The Snapper manual seems to indicate that if you remove the right fender (differential) from the main case, the fender, differential housing, and axle will all pull out from the left fender (hub removed) through the chain case as one complete unit. Doesn't work for me! I did a Google search, and looked at other forums and a couple of videos, and had conflicting instructions. Anyone have some good advice?
The Snapper manual seems to indicate that if you remove the right fender (differential) from the main case, the fender, differential housing, and axle will all pull out from the left fender (hub removed) through the chain case as one complete unit.
If yours won't pull through the chain case, the hex tube could be a little "mushroomed" on the end and could require a little filing.
I watched the video, or parts of it. That guy got the job done, but if you pull the differential out you don't have to disconnect the chain case, yoke, and their related parts.
Thanks for the replies, mechanic mark and Moe Joe. I wound up taking off the left (chain case) fender and removing the chain case off the hex tube to replace both boots (like the video). All back together and working great!
Moe Joe, after pulling the chain case off the hex tube, I understand the Snapper service manual directions, and what you said. When I tried pulling the R. fender/differential/hex tube/axle off through the chain tube, it only moved maybe 1" at most, then wouldn't go any further. When I took off the L. fender and removed the chain case off the hex tube, it came off easy - no burrs. I'm thinking that the first try (Snapper way), maybe I had the differential/fender at an angle, and the hex tube was binding on the chain case. Also, when trying this was, I had the chain case in the park position - does it make a difference where the case is when trying to pull out the diff./tube/axle?
One last question, Moe Joe: I noticed the RH fender oil seal (outside of fender) is letting a little oil through. I didn't replace it, because the local Snapper dealer didn't have one in stock, and said the distributor warehouse didn't have one either - factory order! From looking at the seal, it appears there is a very small difference between the OD and ID of the seal. I've put a sheet metal screw in the seal housing before to remove it without having to remove the shaft its sealing, or use a punch on one side of the seal to raise up the other side to pry it out; this seal housing seems so narrow, I'm not sure if this will work here. Can it be easily removed without having to remove the differential housing?
I no longer have much land or rough terrain. My Snapper has not had boots for three or four years since they desintegrated. I clean it when I stand it up every couple of weeks, but there is rarely anything to clean. I just did a repaint and repower with the 12.5 HP Briggs and even though she is a 1998 she is sweet.
My question, for my application would a glue type boot be acceptable? MY family calls me epoxy man because I can glue or eposy anything and it last for years. My gear puller is fracked and I do not want to buy another to tear it down and do the job right.
Ok, I am anal retentive and I am not sure if I want you guys to tell me to bite the bullet or that for my clean application a glue boot would be fine. I also know there isn't one listed for the application but I imagine I can find something I can make work.
I've never tried to use an automotive type CV axel boot. The diameter will be way different. Another option that I've seen done if the boots are still largely intact is to use heavy polyethyeline taped around the old boots. Don't need to get a lot of dirt inside those cases as it will accelerate wear on the gears. Also if they still sell the end-play kits for the rear axel would be a good idea to get as much the end play out of the rear axel. If the mower rocks a good bit between the rear wheels, it puts a lot of wear on the long and short axels.
