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Repairing 11.5hp rusty briggs

#1

K

KenS

Hi everyone. I'm new here and seeking some advice from those who know much more about this stuff than I do. I am trying to learn more about repairing small engines and I am making this motor my "guinea pig.
I had neglected a snapper riding mower with this briggs and stratton motor on it by leaving it out in the weather for about 3 years. I had only used the mower for one season and it ran great when I parked it...
I tried starting it by spraying a little ether in the spark plug hole...Got nothing. Had spark, so I tested compression. It was only 35 psi. . Rain had gotten into the valve train and rusted things up pretty good.
I have a couple of questions.

1. Are these valves worth trying to save? The intake valve is very pitted. I assume this was caused from the rust? Surprisingly, the intake doesn't leak, but the exhaust valve does. The seats are in good shape, but I think they will need to be lapped.
20190301_200026.jpg20190301_201826.jpg20190304_174230.jpg
2. The cylinder is very smooth and not scratched, but the piston rings are stuck. What is the best way to remove them? I have been soaking them for a couple of days in a gas/seafoam mixture to no avail.
20190302_190751.jpg20190304_195844.jpg
Thanks in advance!
Ken


#2

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Personally I would replace the intake, I would worry about any pieces coming loose during operation and scoring the cylinder. Though it may not happen, I wouldn't risk it.
Is the cylinder a cast liner or the kool bore aluminum?
Try soaking the rings in PB blaster.


#3

Mkala

Mkala

Hello,

Thanks for sharing pics and this motor restoration can be really good to learn - or simply to turn wrenches :biggrin:

The intake valve looks really in bad shape, but the important part is where it seal with the seat.
If any valve is pitted where it seat you should replace it.

If valves seats are not pitted you can lap them with new or valves in good shape. If pitted you should use a seat cutter to restore proper surface.

For pistons rings, don't know the best way to free them, but you need to remove them to clean carefully between the pistons lands. Use something softer than the piston itself to avoid damaging it. This will allow the remounted rings (or new ones) to move freely, this is important.

Keep up posted with your progress, always interesting to see a engine brought back to life :thumbsup:


#4

K

KenS

Thanks for the replies. I just ordered new valves and a gasket kit. Hopefully, I can bring the rust bucket back to life. Will keep ya posted as I am sure I will run into problems.
This will sound like a stupid question, but where do I find torque specs for my engine? I have looked and can't find them for this engine. It must have been an unsuccessful model because a lot of OEM parts are no longer available. It was built in 2009.


#5

Mkala

Mkala

Ok, perfect news valves and good idea, you will need some gaskets too.

You forget to mention model and type of your engine, but you should find good information in "73829159 Single Cylinder Ohv Repair Manual"


#6

K

KenS

Ok, perfect news valves and good idea, you will need some gaskets too.

You forget to mention model and type of your engine, but you should find good information in "73829159 Single Cylinder Ohv Repair Manual"

Thank you! That is a huge help!


#7

T

Tinkerer200

Thank you! That is a huge help!

I can send you a Service Manual IF you like. Address below, put in proper format and remind me engine model number and what you want.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com


#8

K

KenS

I can send you a Service Manual IF you like. Address below, put in proper format and remind me engine model number and what you want.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com
Thank you so much, Walt. I sent you an E-Mail.
Regards,
Ken:smile:


#9

K

KenS

Ok, perfect news valves and good idea, you will need some gaskets too.

You forget to mention model and type of your engine, but you should find good information in "73829159 Single Cylinder Ohv Repair Manual"

The model # is: 217802 Type: 0113-B1 Code: 090129ZA
Thanks for all the help! I really appreciate it.
Ken


#10

Mkala

Mkala

It looks like a nice engine, is this a powerbuilt or I/C ?
As Scrubcadet10 ask, it can determine if it has a cast iron sleeve. You can test with a weak magnet inside the cylinder (not too strong, this can leave magnetization and scratch when remove it)


#11

K

KenS

It looks like a nice engine, is this a powerbuilt or I/C ?
As Scrubcadet10 ask, it can determine if it has a cast iron sleeve. You can test with a weak magnet inside the cylinder (not too strong, this can leave magnetization and scratch when remove it)

Yes sir. It does have a cast iron sleeve in it. Not sure of powerbuilt or I/C.


#12

Mkala

Mkala

Thanks for information ! :smile: Still a nice engine even without cast sleeve, and this saved the cylinder to rust. Probably not a Powerbuilt without sleeve (and not an I/C).
Were you able to free up the rings ?


#13

K

KenS

@Mkala it does have the cast sleeve. I did get the rings off (in pieces). Got new rings in today and will install them tonight.
One more question... Is it OK to use a heavy gear oil 80w to re-assemble the engine with? I don't have any special grease or lube.
TIA,
Ken


#14

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

I wouldn't see anything wrong with it
Assembly lube is best if the engine would sit before starting.
10w30 engine oil would be good.


#15

Mkala

Mkala

@Mkala it does have the cast sleeve. I did get the rings off (in pieces). Got new rings in today and will install them tonight.
One more question... Is it OK to use a heavy gear oil 80w to re-assemble the engine with? I don't have any special grease or lube.
TIA,
Ken

Ha sorry I misread ! So it's nice the cylinder has not any rust, especially considering valve state. But for you it's even better, definitely worth it working on this motor ! :thumbsup:


#16

T

Tinkerer200

Thanks for information ! :smile: Still a nice engine even without cast sleeve, and this saved the cylinder to rust. Probably not a Powerbuilt without sleeve (and not an I/C).
Were you able to free up the rings ?

Didn't you see the model number, this is an OHV engine.

Walt Conner


#17

Mkala

Mkala

Didn't you see the model number, this is an OHV engine.

Walt Conner

Yes I saw it, 344cc OHV engine. And what the relation with ? :confused2:


#18

T

Tinkerer200

Yes I saw it, 344cc OHV engine. And what the relation with ? :confused2:

Ever see a Power Built OHV?

Walt Conner


#19

Mkala

Mkala

Ever see a Power Built OHV?

Walt Conner

Yes, and they are still on sale : https://www.briggsandstratton.com/e.../rider-mower-engines/series-3-powerbuilt.html

And if I'm wrong with something, tell me directly - I'm always happy to learn something new ;)

But that not the subject - hope our rebuilder is progressing and have some pics to share with us ?


#20

T

Tinkerer200

The link you furnished did not work however I did find such an engine and it specified cast iron cylinder liner which is contrary to the traditional Power Built engines which were aluminum bore. I have never seen nor heard of a Power Built OHV engine before.

Walt Conner


#21

K

KenS

Hey fella's. I sure appreciate all the great help I have gotten here. I am hoping to get the engine bolted back on tonight and at least give her a squirt of fuel in the spark plug hole to see if she breathes fire again. If so, I'll post some pictures or a video.
Thanks again. I have been reading lot's of good posts on this forum and it has greatly helped me expand my limited knowledge of small engines.
Cudo's to all the contributors here.
Ken


#22

K

KenS

I got her to fire off after squirting some carb cleaner into the spark plug hole, so I figured I have good compression and spark.


Then I bolted the cleaned (Not rebuilt) carb back on, attached the gas tank and tried to start...Nada...Nothing... I even tried squirting more carb cleaner in the spark plug hole and now she is dead... Stll have spark.
I am sort of at a loss now. I am thinking the carb is crap. It is a Niki and although I ultrasonically cleaned it, she isn't pumping air and fuel like she should. I pulled the starter rope 30 or 40 times and couldn't get her to fire off.

I ordered a new carburetor. It was cheaper than the dang rebuild kit!
Any suggestions on what else I can check?
Again, thanks in advance for all the great advice!
Ken


#23

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

The link you furnished did not work however I did find such an engine and it specified cast iron cylinder liner which is contrary to the traditional Power Built engines which were aluminum bore. I have never seen nor heard of a Power Built OHV engine before.

Walt Conner

powerbuilt.png


#24

Mkala

Mkala

I got her to fire off after squirting some carb cleaner into the spark plug hole, so I figured I have good compression and spark.


Then I bolted the cleaned (Not rebuilt) carb back on, attached the gas tank and tried to start...Nada...Nothing... I even tried squirting more carb cleaner in the spark plug hole and now she is dead... Stll have spark.
I am sort of at a loss now. I am thinking the carb is crap. It is a Niki and although I ultrasonically cleaned it, she isn't pumping air and fuel like she should. I pulled the starter rope 30 or 40 times and couldn't get her to fire off.

I ordered a new carburetor. It was cheaper than the dang rebuild kit!
Any suggestions on what else I can check?
Again, thanks in advance for all the great advice!
Ken

Nice, well done and thanks for sharing vid with us ! Looks good so far.

About carbs, was you able to fully disassemble all the part ? Flush all passages with carb cleaner and perhaps even small wire into the jet ?
Some old fuel tend to really be hard to remove.

As I learned on this forum, some cheap carb are crap and even does not run at all. Sometimes the works fine or not that bad, it's a gamble. Never tried a lot of them, only bought one cheap for a 168F (Gx160/200 clone) engine, as it originally was a cheap carb I put again a cheap one (10 bucks) that work ok.
When I have a Briggs or an Honda engine, I prefer to rebuild the carb with a kit if it is in a decent shape. Sound a bit silly because as you say the rebuild kit is more expensive, but at least you still have your correctly manufactured carb that passed OEM test when he was new.


#25

K

KenS

Thanks, Mkala.
I got the new carburetor bolted on and she fired right up. It runs great so far.

I'm going to get her all cleaned up and list her on Craigslist. Some people just love these snappers. I don't. The turning radius on this one sucks! I also don't like the fact that I can't run the blade while going in reverse. It never really seemed to cut that well either. The deck doesn't have any side wheels on it and every time I turned as sharp as she would go, it would scalp the grass on one side.

I am glad I tore into her. I learned a lot. I appreciate all the help I have gotten here. Now onto the next project.

Ken


#26

Mkala

Mkala

Nice, project well handled and quickly !
It's good now it run fine, so sometimes cheap carb works fine (at least yours and mine - but that's only two in the big pile of sh* :laughing: )

Sure someone will be happy with. And as your say always interesting and fun to turn wrenches and learn something.

Yes this forum is nice and I often find very good advices.
Hope you share with us your next engine project :smile:


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