Rebuilt 10hp Briggs Won’t Start

Go-Rebels

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So I replaced a bad Con Rod and installed new rings and am having problems getting the motor to start. This engine has been sitting for five years and I’ve finally got around to completing the rebuild. This is a 200000 seres OHV model that I bought new in 1993 in a Troybilt Chipper-Shredder.

After replacing the fuel line and old plug and cleaning the carb I was unable to get the motor to fire once after repeated pulls on full choke. But the engine would fire up and appear to run normally, albeit momentarily, with starting fluid. I removed the bowl, saw the fuel level to be normal, and found the main metering tube clogged with something (old gelled fuel or dirt?). I cleared that with a fine oxyacetylene torch cleaning wire and confirmed by shooting carb cleaner through the metering tube from the bottom. Then I reassembled tried to pull start the engine and experienced extreme backfire and numerous kickbacks coming through my pull cord running on gas. Clearly my timing seemed way off.

Today I have no time to work on it and am now planning ‘next steps’ for next weekend.

I’m thinking I next need to run a compression test to check timing. What should I expect from this engine?

If my flywheel is mistimed, like if the key is missing, then my timing would be way off. But I remember putting the key in the flywheel. I’ll need to disassemble to confirm.

I set the punchmarks on the cam and crank gear to be aligned per the punch marks. There’s no additional timing, correct? And the small removable cam driving gear on the crank can be reversed, correct? I didn’t check the removable gear to see if the alignment punches are identical on both sides.

Both push rods/rockers have 1-2mm of play after installation when not under load. I did not disassemble the rocker arms and did not check rocker play prior to disassembly. Is this much play normal? Prior to the con rod failure I never remember experiencing a backfire.

Thx for any advice in advance.
 

Scrubcadet10

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Well, with the compression release working properly on the cam, you normally get a reading of 90 pounds or less, just pulling the rope a few times.
what i would do, is with the rocker cover off, spin the engine by hand, and look for the Exhaust valve to bump after the intake closes, not open fully, just bump open a little bit, that will tell you if your ACR is working properly, or not, and i would also double check you have the correct valve clearance.
Clearance is 004 to 006 intake AND exhaust.
I'm not sure about the crank gear being reversed.
 

MowLife

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1-2 mm of play is way out of spec. You need to adjust your valve lash
 

Tinkerer200

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Well, with the compression release working properly on the cam, you normally get a reading of 90 pounds or less, just pulling the rope a few times.
what i would do, is with the rocker cover off, spin the engine by hand, and look for the Exhaust valve to bump after the intake closes, not open fully, just bump open a little bit, that will tell you if your ACR is working properly, or not, and i would also double check you have the correct valve clearance.
Clearance is 004 to 006 intake AND exhaust.
I'm not sure about the crank gear being reversed.

Without a model number I can not check but it would not be common for an OHV B&S engine to relieve compression via the EXHAUST valve except Vanguard series V engines.

I suspect improperly torqued flywheel nut/bolt has allowed partial shearing of key.

Walt Conner
 

Go-Rebels

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1-2 mm of play is way out of spec. You need to adjust your valve lash

Yes, my thoughts exactly! That's why I thought that I may have improperly assembled the push rod and lifter whereby I missed getting the bottom of the push rod seated in the depression in the top of the lifter. But I don't think that's possible given the clearance of the lifter moving in its bore.

With such clearance I would have imagines some damage, like a grossly bent push rod but that is not the case.

Would it be common to have a 20 year old OHV engine grow to such a clearance over the years??? I didn't exactly measure but its at least 1 mm (0.039 in). I never checked the valve clearance since this rebuild since the engine was quiet and ran very well.
 

Go-Rebels

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Without a model number I can not check but it would not be common for an OHV B&S engine to relieve compression via the EXHAUST valve except Vanguard series V engines.

I suspect improperly torqued flywheel nut/bolt has allowed partial shearing of key.

Walt Conner

Model is #205412.

I'm going to find some time tonight and check the key and verify that it's in place... or not.

---

Just a shameless plug for the Milwaukee tool company... this is my first rebuild project using their new stubby model #2555 3/8" impact wrench. Small and powerful, it cuts a bunch of time disassembling and reassembling making repeat work not so awful as if doing it by hand.
 

Scrubcadet10

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Without a model number I can not check but it would not be common for an OHV B&S engine to relieve compression via the EXHAUST valve except Vanguard series V engines.

I suspect improperly torqued flywheel nut/bolt has allowed partial shearing of key.

Walt Conner
I
I only assumed it used the exhaust, since he said he bought it new in 1993.
I read that the EPA started making them relieve compression through the intake in the early 00's.
If any information I give is wrong, I'm more than happy for it to be corrected
 

MowLife

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After you rebuilt I would assume the clearance changed. A new head gasket alone will change the clearance. And yes after 20 years they would need adjusting. Valve lash adjustments should be a part of your yearly maintenance on mowers. I know your engine is not on a mower with frequent use so every few years it would be good to check the lash.
 

Go-Rebels

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After you rebuilt I would assume the clearance changed. A new head gasket alone will change the clearance. And yes after 20 years they would need adjusting. Valve lash adjustments should be a part of your yearly maintenance on mowers. I know your engine is not on a mower with frequent use so every few years it would be good to check the lash.

Ah yes... the new head gasket is the reason.

Good call!.
 

Go-Rebels

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Flywheel key was sheared. Neither my local Advance Auto nor O’Reilly’s had any keys so I needed to buy through Amazon Prime. Plenty of air fresheners but no square 3/16" keys. Sad.

I’ll set the valve train clearance before I next try to fire it up.
 
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