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Howdy all. I inherited a 2014 Hustler Raptor non-commercial 52” mower bought from Lowe’s. Late last summer, it gave me some stuttering troubles which I assumed were fuel related. I recently used it and the problem was worse. Kawasaki FR691V engine.

I have:

Ensured fresh ethanol-free gas
changed the fuel filter
cleaned air filter
cleaned the breather filter for fuel tank
confirmed good fuel to carb
removed and cleaned carb
Adjusted engine valves

The problem persists. Now I’m wondering whether there’s something in the drive train causing it to bog down. It will bog and stutter when I engage the drives, especially if I’m mowing at the time.

When I pull the rings at rear to put the drives in neutral or “tow mode,” the rear wheels do roll by hand... but they have resistance and a gear growl. Previously, they would spin more easily and I don’t remember any gear noise.

Am I remembering correctly? If so, what could be the problem? The transmissions are sealed and the manual says they’re not serviceable.

Any other ideas?

Thanks.

https://www.hustlerturf.com/file/117373.pdf see jtroubleshooting guide page 9.1

mechanic mark said:

https://www.hustlerturf.com/file/117373.pdf see jtroubleshooting guide page 9.1

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Thanks, I already looked through the troubleshooting in my owners manual.

Have you pulled and inspected the plugs? It sounds like possibly a rich running condition. Choke sticking closed? Blowing gray/black smoke?

I agree with Darryl on the bogging condition. Sounds like the carb needs to be taken apart and cleaned. Take plenty of before pics to make reassemble easy. The trans is a different issue. Follow the disengage rods to the trans to make sure they are still attached. This is very important as even pulling or towing a short distance can destroy a trans.

Darryl G said:

Have you pulled and inspected the plugs? It sounds like possibly a rich running condition. Choke sticking closed? Blowing gray/black smoke?

Click to expand...

Plugs have been removed and cleaned, neither was overly dirty and both were properly gapped.

Choke was moving freely when I did the carb and it won’t run with choke closed so I don’t think that’s it.

Haven’t noticed any smoke.

Thanks!

dfbroxy said:

I agree with Darryl on the bogging condition. Sounds like the carb needs to be taken apart and cleaned. Take plenty of before pics to make reassemble easy. The trans is a different issue. Follow the disengage rods to the trans to make sure they are still attached. This is very important as even pulling or towing a short distance can destroy a trans.

Click to expand...

I did the carb, but may have to do it again to make sure every little hole is open and clean.

Now I need to figure out the disengage rods. Are those the ones at the rear which I pull and lock in order to put it in tow mode? Pulling/locking those to the rear does make it easier to roll, but not really freewheeling as when a transmission is truly in neutral. When the wheels are turned, gear noise can be heard.

Seems to me they used to go entirely free when I pulled/locked the rings.

Thanks!

Yes those are what Im referring to. Im sure they have some other part name but you got the idea. Follow them to each trans and make sure they are fully disengaging both trans. It is not 100% true that these trans, or hydros are not servicable. It is a debate about whether you should or not. The hydro can be removed from the mower and the fluid changed, but most only do this when the hydro starts to slip or not work properly. These units are built in a dust free clean room. Just a tiny bit of contamination will make it fail in a short time.

As for the bogging, have you checked for a dead cylinder? Im assuming this is a v twin engine. Does it only do this after the engine has been running for a while or even at startup?

dfbroxy said:

Yes those are what Im referring to. Im sure they have some other part name but you got the idea. Follow them to each trans and make sure they are fully disengaging both trans. It is not 100% true that these trans, or hydros are not servicable. It is a debate about whether you should or not. The hydro can be removed from the mower and the fluid changed, but most only do this when the hydro starts to slip or not work properly. These units are built in a dust free clean room. Just a tiny bit of contamination will make it fail in a short time.

As for the bogging, have you checked for a dead cylinder? Im assuming this is a v twin engine. Does it only do this after the engine has been running for a while or even at startup?

Click to expand...

I agree on a cylinder that's weak or not firing...... A compression test on both will tell you a story.............

dfbroxy said:

Yes those are what Im referring to. Im sure they have some other part name but you got the idea. Follow them to each trans and make sure they are fully disengaging both trans. It is not 100% true that these trans, or hydros are not servicable. It is a debate about whether you should or not. The hydro can be removed from the mower and the fluid changed, but most only do this when the hydro starts to slip or not work properly. These units are built in a dust free clean room. Just a tiny bit of contamination will make it fail in a short time.

As for the bogging, have you checked for a dead cylinder? Im assuming this is a v twin engine. Does it only do this after the engine has been running for a while or even at startup?

Click to expand...

I’ll check those rods when I get a chance. Thanks for the info.

The bogging seems to be worse once it warms up a bit, but it doesn’t take long for it to begin. Yes it’s a Kawasaki V twin. Both cylinders have good spark but I don’t have a compression tester.

You can get one on loan from any Auto zone or Oreilly's ....... They will ask for a deposit and you get it back when you return the tool........

If the compression is ok then test the coils. When they start to go bad they will spark when cold and not when warmed up. Test them when the engine is hot. I hope others will chime in about the hydros. That isnt my strong suite.

Just a simple, free, test.
Pull of one of the plug wires and start the engine.
Then, plug that wire back on, then pull the other side, and start.

If it runs on one test and not the other, then you are on your way to isolating the problem.

Fish said:

Just a simple, free, test.
Pull of one of the plug wires and start the engine.
Then, plug that wire back on, then pull the other side, and start.

If it runs on one test and not the other, then you are on your way to isolating the problem.

Click to expand...

It’ll start and run with either plug wire removed... haven’t tested the spark hot yet right after it starts acting up, but I’ll do that.

Thanks everyone.

It is a simple, easy test. And it costs nothing.....

Check your oil, if it is more full than it should be it probably has fuel in the crankcase. This will happen on the Raptor if you fill the fuel tank all the way to the neck. The fuel will go thru the vent tube and in the crankcase of the engine. This is due to the fact, that the carb is lower than the top of the tank.

TheHustler,

You are correct and that manufacturer ventilation system was good in theory, however, it can also push fuel all over the floor if the tank is over filled. I raised the fuel ventilation to the bottom of the fuel filler neck thereby keeping the tank from pushing fluids out of the tank.

I do not suggest others do this. Just an example of a way to solve the fuel overflow into the oil from the carb.

Max

After testing many theories and doing lots of work I finally replaced the fuel pump. So far, so good!

Thanks for the input.

Russ

Nail,

Glad to hear you're up and running. Keep us informed.

Max