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Hey guys. First time rider owner. Purchased my Hustler Raptor whenever they first came out. About 130 hours on it I think. About 2.5 acre lawn. Seems to be really struggling to discharge here at the end of the season. I'm wondering if you can tell me anything helpful about mower blades and maintenance etc. I didn't grow up in a family that needed riders either, so everything is new to me when it happens. I have not replaced the blades or tried to figure out how to remove them to sharpen them and reinstall them yet. I'm sure they need it and that's what giving me the most trouble with getting the grass to discharge (though this has always been a problem with this mower).

Wondering what skill level is involved in taking the blades off and reinstalling them as I don't want to start throwing blades through the neighbor's window because I did something wrong. Also, is it common to just buy oem replacement blades or are there other companies that make better blades etc.

Thanks!

You probably have a huge grass buildup under the deck. Need to jack the mower up at the front, block it up, then scrape out under the deck. The blades certainly will need sharpening or replacement after 130 hours. They are easy to remove with a long breaker bar and the proper six point socket. Wrap a thick towel around the blades so you can hold them as you take them off and wear gloves. OR, you can block the blades from turning with a piece of 2x6 as you remove. Still wear gloves. The bolts are regular right hand thread. The wings on the blades go up toward the underside of the deck. You can use OEM or aftermarket blades. OEM and Oregon brand are both good. Blade torque specs should be in the owner's manual.

Thanks for the start John!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZM_0dFXMzU

Watched this (sound is quiet) and he seems to use some sort of tool to put the blade back on that does something with the correct torque. Any idea what that is so that I put them back on correctly? Necessary?

Thanks.

It's a torque wrench. In my many years of experience of taking blades off and on, I never use one any more. I just get the blades back on reasonably tight. Finger tighten as much as you can so you know the bolts are not cross threading, then get them tight with the wrench. The rotation of the blades in use tends to keep them tight. I bet they are hard to get off after three seasons. After you get them off, oil the bolt threads lightly if any rust is showing.

Thanks. So no issue with overtightening I take it?

Also, any opinion on blade options? I'm having a heck of a time getting it to cut clean and to get it to discharge, so I'm now seeing there are high lift blades and mulching blades and mulch kits to add on etc.

Thanks.

After cleaning the deck and sharpening the blades if it still doesn't discharge right you might have to slow down so the mower deck has time to process all that grass. How tall do you let it get before you mow? Wet grass is the worst, try to mow after the dew is off the grass.

I know the wet grass is part of it. I try to mow when it is driest, but I live at the bottom of a development, so it's always kind of wet. The more I wait for the driest weather, the longer it gets. I'll clean it out and get new blades as you suggested and see if that makes a difference.

You'll likely find high lift blades to give the best cut quality and discharge for your situation. Over time the air foils start getting worn and reduce in size and even lose pieces, thus throwing less air. You should be sharpening or changing them at least every season. Personally I run Gator high lift mulching blades most of the time but for your conditions I think they would be a step in the wrong direction for you.

Suggestions? I was talking with someone today about blades online and got standard, gator, mulch and low sail, but nothing high lift I guess.

Thanks.

I usually order my blades from my dealer. Not sure what size your mower takes. Could be 16 1/4 or 16 1/2? Your manual should list part numbers for your blades and you can use that to cross-reference. Standard usually means a medium lift but many mowers come standard with high lift blades. High lift blades are sometimes called 2-in-1 blades because they are good for both discharging and bagging. On occasion that I order them online I get them landscaper pro.

http://www.landscaperpro.com/HustlerHighLiftStandardLiftMulchingGatorandCopperheadMowerBlad.aspx

I am not sure but have you ever sharpened the blades in those 130 hours?

I use Gator blades on my 54SD. I found buying them in bulk on EBay is just about the same price as paying someone to sharpen them.
I wish I could do a better job too. I got 9 blades for about $85 so that's a little over $9/blade.

Are you aware of the discharge chute modification? My mower was fine but cutting the opening out a bit more as the modification does improves the grass discharge.
I also see commercial guys mowing with the plastic safety cover pulled up with a bungee cord. I have been told to be careful doing this as the machine can throw rocks and other things a long way!
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1. You can shake water off the grass with a simple drag. I made one out of spare fence mesh and 3 2x4 attached to it on the top. Spaced apart, so that when it goes over humps, mesh follows terrain. I tow it behind my ATV early am, around 9-10, so it shakes all the dew off the grass and then mow in the afternoon. Some drag garden hose, Whatever.
2. You MUST sharpen blades regularly, or it will do nothing better but clump grass clippings in the deck, sort of rolling them into large grass balls, choking mower. Ever so often, stop, turn blades off, then turn them back on. Every time you do so, it shakes deck and what's inside, off. Do it 2-3 times in a row. You WILL leave a large pile of grass behind when you start moving.
3. Here's why you have discharge issue. So do I. So did my 54 raptor and now 60 SD. Their deck sucks. The way discharge is designed, you have large round nook in the right hand corner. All it's doing is to collect clippings, as mower deck is designed to move clippings towards chute. That's fine, except that chute is actually not across the ENTIRE deck side, but only half of it. The rest is clippings collector.
That's the real reason. Next time, buy mower with rectangular deck and chute across the entire side of it. Also, Hustler has metal bar across the chute bottom. Bay far, it is not helping with discharge, but helps to retain clippings inside the deck.
I took Sawzall to mine and cut it open as much as I could, widening chute opening. I am limited by mulching attachment, but I still opened it quite a few inches. Next, I re did the chute cover, as it hangs too low, clogging chute with clippings. I made metal sheet sidewalls, added to cover, so that they hold cover higher up. As the result, I have much less clumping issue but I still ride with a hooked stick on the foot deck. Ever so often, I'll stop, pull cover up and hold it with left hand, while with the right hand, I use stick to remove grass clump in the right chute corner. Takeson average 5-6 passes on severla acres to build it up.
Like I said, it's deck chute design. Simply not right.

Yes here is the factory deck mod I was talking about without the added reinforcing bracket. You can see the holes drilled where it bolts to. They added a angle iron bracket but some people just cut it out and forget the added bracket.. The deck is very stout.

The factory kit for my SD54" was #123349 and #190389.
Paid about $65 with shipping on EBay.




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Yeah, I thought about that. I have mulching kit that I use, that limits me in how much I can chute open and I need that lower bar. That bar is indeed in your face discharge deterrent. Either way, left hand corner will still collect clippings. Just much less.
Btw, I just sharpened my blades ON the mower, without removing them. High speed angle grinder and mower lift.

Here is a modification that will be pretty much all you need to make your discharge chute perfect for your Raptor. It will also help maintain a modicum of safety for you and others around the discharge chute by retaining the lower portion of the enforcement bar.

Go check out the videos and you will see there is no blockage at all once you lower the enforcement bar below the top of the blade tip. Type of blade isn't a big deal as the blade that came on it works well in most grasses including wet.

Good luck,

Max





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUPaa8JoZJ8