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Hi, I have quick change oil valve on my Troy bilt Pony 2020.
I changed the oil yesterday. I drained it after mowing on a hot mower. the lawnmower shop owner had given me the wrong filter. It spun on but was slightly larger for a Kawasaki. I didn't realize until it was all apart.

Anyway, he had to order the right one. I re-changed the oil last night. First off, I had trouble pulling that yellow plastic valve out the second time around after turning it and getting it out of the detente. It seemed really tight to pull out. I pulled harder and it pulled out too far, making a nice mess. The little nipple on the metal part that guides through the plastic to lock it came through the factory slit. (The Part closest to the motor.
I pushed it back on and cleaned up changes the oil etc.
my question is how can I make that plastic part a little easier to pull. I cleaned it up with a toothbrush. Is the plastic part replaceable on its own? I read a Thread on here that a Said you can remove that plastic piece to tighten the actual metal valve down.

Does anyone have one of these things disassembled . I am trying to picture how this functions internally.

If I was you and had removed the entire drain valve, I would replace it with a drain hose and not that twist and pull valve that is known to unscrew from the engine, break off and come apart, either way I have seen more than one of those valves cause unexpected sudden engine disassembly.

I did not remove the entire fitting, the plastic part came too far forward when pulling it. The metal tit so to speak passed the cut in the yellow part momentarily. I pushed it back and it's fine. I get i can change this to something else, but I'm asking about thw function of this piece as stated above.

The plastic piece just has 2 o-rings internally that seal the oil in, when you pull it forward the Orings no longer block the drain hole.
I'd advise replacing it like Ilengine said. Theyre a pain to deal with and can cause you alot of financial pain when you have to buy a new mower or engine.

What stops it from pulling too far forward when pulling it

Mr Hogg Willetts said:

What stops it from pulling too far forward when pulling it

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There is no hard stop to prevent pulling the thing apart again. And you will be tightening the threaded portion everytime you service the mower.

the Interface between the mower and unit has never been loose or leaked. Mine made a mess when I pulled to hard when . The plastic piece wouldn't pull forward at first and then I pulled it too far forward.and it leaked I'm guessing between the bottom of the plastic and metal from being pulled too far forward.

Mr Hogg Willetts said:

What stops it from pulling too far forward when pulling it

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There's a notch in the plastic that catches on a small bump on the metal part of it, but it's easily pulled over it.

ILENGINE said:

There is no hard stop to prevent pulling the thing apart again. And you will be tightening the threaded portion everytime you service the mower.

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You can take a small chisel and hammer and carefully tighten the metal threaded portion into the engine block. Many drains are loose that I change the oil on for customers.

Tiger Small Engine said:

You can take a small chisel and hammer and carefully tighten the metal threaded portion into the engine block. Many drains are loose that I change the oil on for customers.

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I have had several over the years that you couldn't tighten the drain due to the flats hitting the frame below the engine. Have to remove engine to tighten the twist and pull drains.

They were designed to be "customer friendly", but I have seen them cost owners an engine a few times. After a few years of oil changes, they will pop open on their own.

They are a faulty design just by being made out of plastic.

I recommend you look into getting a drain hose style with a steel or brass cap on it like what is used on many zero turn models.

What do you recommend for Troy bilt pony 42"

I agree they are trouble just awaiting to happen.

Here when they are loose at the mounting I use a custom crowfoot tool to remove them so some blue Loctite can be applied and then reinstall them.

But I would prefer to install a DrainzIt 1438 hose assembly since, if I remember correctly, these fittings are 3/8 NPT. Now you need to a conduit retaining clip the retain the hose when no in use.

Get an oil extractor. Forget all the valves mess (literally) and tipping pushers over. Forget crawling under the car.

I have one

ILENGINE said:

If I was you and had removed the entire drain valve, I would replace it with a drain hose and not that twist and pull valve that is known to unscrew from the engine, break off and come apart, either way I have seen more than one of those valves cause unexpected sudden engine disassembly.

Click to expand...

my sister ruined a rider with less than 30 hrs on it when a stick kicked up, dislodged the twist lock, lost the oil while she was mowing, she was unaware the oil was leaking,,, until the engine locked up! one more for the scrap heap, due to a manufacturer "built in self- destruct device"

Tiger Small Engine said:

You can take a small chisel and hammer and carefully tighten the metal threaded portion into the engine block. Many drains are loose that I change the oil on for customers.

Click to expand...

when i take them out, they get replaced with an iron fittng and plug!

oldntired55 said:

my sister ruined a rider with less than 30 hrs on it when a stick kicked up, dislodged the twist lock, lost the oil while she was mowing, she was unaware the oil was leaking,,, until the engine locked up! one more for the scrap heap, due to a manufacturer "built in self- destruct device"

Click to expand...

Why mow sticks?

Any extra add-on to an oiling system is a time b o m b. Fancy oil coolers. Cool two quart Chevy filter relocation kits. Cost me a new engine once. Pulled that mess off and went right in the trash. Never had another issue again.