Quantum 725 auto choke doesn't open quickly enough

mkrpa

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2014 Toro Recycler model 20333 with model 120000 Quantum 725 Series, serial #14-0210-58-45378.
Always ran well with routine carb/linkage/choke cleaning with Gumout, stabilized fuel, new spark plug, oil change, etc.
Last year started surging so removed float bowl, cleaned needle valve and surging stopped. Noticed the spring connected to choke vane was intact but bent so bought new spring (B&S OEM) over the winter and installed exactly like old spring was. Looks exactly like the old spring except not bent but much tighter. Kept choke closed too much and engine barely ran. I manually held choke open and it ran fine. Through much trial and error I've been trying to stretch the spring enough so choke opens within several seconds of starting engine. Once engine has warmed up, it's OK. I've almost got it, but this just seems too primitive and imprecise. The vane and choke plate seem to move smoothly and the linkage appears normal. Any ideas about why this has developed and/or what else can be done about it?
 

Scrubcadet10

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what was the part number of the spring you purchased?
 

mkrpa

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Set of 2 - one air vane choke spring 790849 and one governor spring 699056.
I only used the choke spring; the governor was fine. Both springs are identical to the ones that were on the engine.
 

StarTech

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Briggs 128M02-0001-F1

The governor spring you got is wrong PN as it is a 691292.

Check to make sure you have all the engine shroud parts in place as it sound like you have a air flow issue.
 
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mkrpa

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Briggs 128M02-0001-F1

The governor spring you got is wrong PN as it is a 691292.

Check to make sure you have all the engine shroud parts in place as it sound like you have a air flow issue.
The governor spring PN is probably a moot point, as I didn't replace that; I left the stock one on. Toro's PNs have annoyingly changed (this number now replaces that number, etc.) Anyway, I agree there's an air flow issue, but I believe it's caused by choke malfunction. I will pull the shroud and make sure nothing is interfering with any moving parts. I've never removed the carb or anything with a gasket other than the float bowl that could produce a deficient seal that I'm aware of.
One thing I haven't really thought about because the vane and choke plate move very smoothly is the choke thermostat. I'll look more closely at that when the shroud is off. Maybe I should just empirically replace that and the muffler. Sound reasonable?
 
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