Briggs & Stratton engine ID# 31A607 0458 E1, got this engine after it was torn down completely. I have reassembled it but I think I may have thee push rods inserted improperly. Can someone give me the length of the intake and exhaust push rods? Thank you for any and all help.
Thank you, I will get out the magnet and check it out. Thinking I may need to buy a set of new rods because they might be bent.
#4
Fish
Put them on a flat tabletop and roll them to check for bends. You probably have lost one of the valve caps, which are little buttons that sit atop the valve tip, under the rocker arm.
#5
Fish
Look around on the ground where you first tore it down, they are easy to lose, also cn easily fall into the engine.
Hey Fish, are the valve caps located on the end of the valves? If so I am going to have to open it up again..... That's not a problem as I have been in it a few times already. Thanks for the input. I really want to get this thing going again.
#7
Fish
Yes, they sit over the valve tips, you put the feeler gauge between them and the rocker arm.
I am going to have to assume the guy that tore it down lost both of them. The engine was in a couple boxes when I got it. So time to hit the web and find a couple to replace them.
Reset the valves and the engine is turning over very slowly and not firing. The valves are gapped at exhaust .15mm and intake at .10mm. Brand new fully charged battery, all connections cleaned and tight. Did a complete rebuild of the carb, new connecting rod, and seals. Maybe I need to open up the motor again and make sure the valves did not get bent when the connecting rod broke. I might have to take it to a shop before to much longer.
Fish, from what I have found on line they are gapped correctly. Manual says Intake .06-.13 mm Exhaust .13-.18mm If that is not correct what should they be set at?
Tim, time to go back to the basics. Do you have spark? Are you sure you have fuel in the cylinder? Have you checked compression? With out these three it will not start or run. I would start with these three and tell use how you checked each one.
#18
Fish
OH, "SNAP"!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah, I missed the metric thing there, sorry. since we all were American, my bad... Let Rivets take you where you need to be.....
#19
Fish
He has been waiting a while for that
one!
#20
Fish
Of course he will just put up a mechanic manual link, and call it a "win". And go on from there....
I do have spark. Checked by removing the plug and hooking it back up, grounded to the block and turned the motor over. I saw the plug sparking. Yes there is fuel in the cylinder. When I removed the spark plug it was damp. Compression is a little over 110lbs. Checked with a compression tester. Intake valve gap is set at .08mm, exhaust is set at .15mm, armature set at .30mm. Carb was completely rebuilt and all gaskets are new.
OK I answered your questions and now I wait. Hoping someone will chime in soon.
#23
Fish
Sorry, a lot of angst around here...
I wasn't joking about re-checking your flywheel key. If you did not torque the flywheel nut properly, and little evidence here
makes me think you did, then it is quite possibly sheared, and may be your only problem left, but who could tell???
Check the key, and then find a link online about it, and torque it back properly, then we hopefully could rule out that variable...
If you brought it into my shop, and told me all of this history, I wouldn't let you get it off your truck.....
#24
Fish
BTW, if the key is sheared, the plug will still be sparking!!!!
