The Stens website says you must be a dealer and logged in to buy from them. Who else (retailer/distributor) carries Stens parts?But if you wish a good aftermarket pulley either Stens 280-714 or Rotary 12620
Sounds like a defective part. I have bought lots of aftermarket parts from Amazon and EBay and overall, have had great service, quality, and price. Even if you are a dealer with Stens, to get free shipping, they have a $170 minimum order. Based on tiered volume pricing, the Stens representative told me they are about 14% lower than Amazon (not that much). When you only need one pulley, that is why I often end up ordering it on Amazon.The Stens website says you must be a dealer and logged in to buy from them. Who else (retailer/distributor) carries Stens parts?
Edit: I just did a search (memo to me, search first, ask questions later) and found Stens pulleys on ebay. Looks exactly the same down to the rivets. The pic on Stens website did not show the rivets.
Must be looking at a different website. Here is what I getting.The Stens website says you must be a dealer and logged in to buy from them. Who else (retailer/distributor) carries Stens parts?
Edit: I just did a search (memo to me, search first, ask questions later) and found Stens pulleys on ebay. Looks exactly the same down to the rivets. The pic on Stens website did not show the rivets.
The Stens website says you must be a dealer and logged in to buy from them.But if you wish a good aftermarket pulley either Stens 280-714 or Rotary 12620
In the upper right corner of your picture, it says Welcome and below that My Account. I tried again and a different page offered me an account and said "Become a Dealer". So I was mistaken. Run of the mill public can create an account and buy from them. Dealers probably get a bigger discount.Must be looking at a different website. Here is what I getting.
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For some reason Stens is not giving me any discount on this pulley.
After expressing interest in doing business with Stens early this Spring via the Internet, a representative called me. Said he would be in my area and come by my shop. No call and no show and never heard back from them. Also, they were not at the Equipment Expo this year. Business must be good for Stens…In the upper right corner of your picture, it says Welcome and below that My Account. I tried again and a different page offered me an account and said "Become a Dealer". So I was mistaken. Run of the mill public can create an account and buy from them. Dealers probably get a bigger discount.
Sometimes it takes you doing follow-ups. It took me several years just to get into Gardner but with RBI it took a very short time. What is a major problem was that had a very lazy local salesman. He only lived 20 miles from me and never came out. It took firing him and hiring a new salesman before I got signed up. They are very slow to correct problems too. A couple years ago Gardner started charging 2.5% for CC use but had ACH transfers supposedly available. It took 7 months to get switch over to where I send a check after every purchase. They never setup Codis to do ACH transfers. What worst is now I have a Space Cadet for a salesperson. She calls and have no idea of what she is calling about. But RBI has Codis setup and payments get done in three days.After expressing interest in doing business with Stens early this Spring via the Internet, a representative called me. Said he would be in my area and come by my shop. No call and no show and never heard back from them. Also, they were not at the Equipment Expo this year. Business must be good for Stens…
Star Tech-Sometimes it takes you doing follow-ups. It took me several years just to get into Gardner but with RBI it took a very short time. What is a major problem was that had a very lazy local salesman. He only lived 20 miles from me and never came out. It took firing him and hiring a new salesman before I got signed up. They are very slow to correct problems too. A couple years ago Gardner started charging 2.5% for CC use but had ACH transfers supposedly available. It took 7 months to get switch over to where I send a check after every purchase. They never setup Codis to do ACH transfers. What worst is now I have a Space Cadet for a salesperson. She calls and have no idea of what she is calling about. But RBI has Codis setup and payments get done in three days.
One of the problems is turnover of sales staff. In the last ten years of being with Stens I have been thru six salespersons and only one ever visited the shop.
I only so far this year purchased about $23,000 in parts but none the vendors have over $4758 in sales. You probably not surprise how small purchases from different vendors quickly add up. Plus every year is different. So purchases from Gardner are way down but RBI is way up. Stens is down and Rotary is up.
Here is some of the top vendors here. And this don't include shipping charges.
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I rebuilt the mower deck on my Craftsman GT3000 tractor last spring. After grinding off the rust, epoxying the underside and painting it, I replaced several pulleys, belts, and one of the bearing/blade holder assemblies. Yesterday while mowing, I heard a loud squeal followed by smoke and burning rubber. Pulled it into the garage, and this AM I pulled the deck. The drive belt for the deck was twisted and frayed.
The cause was separation of the top and bottom halves of one of the new replacement pulleys. (See Picture). I bought all of my parts from eBay, since Sears is pretty much gone and has only a few parts available for shipping sometime in this century. Despite paying a bit more for "OEM" parts I have to wonder if the parts I bought really are OEM. After all, the original pulleys and belts on this tractor only lasted 20 odd years. (When I rebuilt the deck, one of the pulleys (not this one) had similarly failed, but it did not eat the belt.)
Is this a common problem? Can I expect a new pulley to also bite the dust in a matter of months? I mow about 3/4 acre every other week during the growing season. The tractor usually logs fewer than 50 hours a year - probably a lot closer to 20 or 30. Note that in the picture I've not started loosening the retaining nut. What you see is what I saw when I yanked the deck.
Nothing wrong with the old pulley . Betcha you can find someone to spot weld it back. Failing a spot weld, there is always the rosette method. Just drill holes through one of the halves and then holes through the other half but offset from the first set. Then any competent welder ( sometimes even incompetent ones) can just weld in rosettes through each hole to bond the assembly. MIG, rod (GMAW or MAW), TIG or gas can all be used. Cheaper and better than new.I rebuilt the mower deck on my Craftsman GT3000 tractor last spring. After grinding off the rust, epoxying the underside and painting it, I replaced several pulleys, belts, and one of the bearing/blade holder assemblies. Yesterday while mowing, I heard a loud squeal followed by smoke and burning rubber. Pulled it into the garage, and this AM I pulled the deck. The drive belt for the deck was twisted and frayed.
The cause was separation of the top and bottom halves of one of the new replacement pulleys. (See Picture). I bought all of my parts from eBay, since Sears is pretty much gone and has only a few parts available for shipping sometime in this century. Despite paying a bit more for "OEM" parts I have to wonder if the parts I bought really are OEM. After all, the original pulleys and belts on this tractor only lasted 20 odd years. (When I rebuilt the deck, one of the pulleys (not this one) had similarly failed, but it did not eat the belt.)
Is this a common problem? Can I expect a new pulley to also bite the dust in a matter of months? I mow about 3/4 acre every other week during the growing season. The tractor usually logs fewer than 50 hours a year - probably a lot closer to 20 or 30. Note that in the picture I've not started loosening the retaining nut. What you see is what I saw when I yanked the deck.
just a typical cheap made pulley..even the OEM pulley's are as cheaply made.. no quality control any more..I rebuilt the mower deck on my Craftsman GT3000 tractor last spring. After grinding off the rust, epoxying the underside and painting it, I replaced several pulleys, belts, and one of the bearing/blade holder assemblies. Yesterday while mowing, I heard a loud squeal followed by smoke and burning rubber. Pulled it into the garage, and this AM I pulled the deck. The drive belt for the deck was twisted and frayed.
The cause was separation of the top and bottom halves of one of the new replacement pulleys. (See Picture). I bought all of my parts from eBay, since Sears is pretty much gone and has only a few parts available for shipping sometime in this century. Despite paying a bit more for "OEM" parts I have to wonder if the parts I bought really are OEM. After all, the original pulleys and belts on this tractor only lasted 20 odd years. (When I rebuilt the deck, one of the pulleys (not this one) had similarly failed, but it did not eat the belt.)
Is this a common problem? Can I expect a new pulley to also bite the dust in a matter of months? I mow about 3/4 acre every other week during the growing season. The tractor usually logs fewer than 50 hours a year - probably a lot closer to 20 or 30. Note that in the picture I've not started loosening the retaining nut. What you see is what I saw when I yanked the deck.
But....but....there are those here who want you to buy another shitty pulley.....just a typical cheap made pulley..even the OEM pulley's are as cheaply made.. no quality control any more..
Your diagnosis is all wrong. The pulley ripped apart and is beyond saving. Were I on a desert island w/ no access to parts, and had a shop with grinders and welding equipment, then sure, it could be restored if there were no other options. But for twenty odd bucks it is simply not worth it. I have a MIG and could weld it if I thought it were worth while.Nothing wrong with the old pulley . Betcha you can find someone to spot weld it back. Failing a spot weld, there is always the rosette method. Just drill holes through one of the halves and then holes through the other half but offset from the first set. Then any competent welder ( sometimes even incompetent ones) can just weld in rosettes through each hole to bond the assembly. MIG, rod (GMAW or MAW), TIG or gas can all be used. Cheaper and better than new.
Had an issue with clip nuts used to secure items to a seam. Called the company and asked if they made their own. They did and told them to crank up the amperage on the "spot" welder because half of them had the "welded" nut fall off the clip. They called back a couple hours later and said, yup...someone had dialed back the amperage on one of the machines so they sent a bag of new stock gratis.....
After 20 years some of the pulleys' bearings felt dry. I think I replaced 4 of the 6 on the deck. The ones that remained felt fine.I could have put a new pulley on and mowed half my yard in the time it's taken to read through this thread. Why did you replace the original pulley to begin with?
Bullshit.Your diagnosis is all wrong. The pulley ripped apart and is beyond saving. Were I on a desert island w/ no access to parts, and had a shop with grinders and welding equipment, then sure, it could be restored if there were no other options. But for twenty odd bucks it is simply not worth it. I have a MIG and could weld it if I thought it were worth while.
Ok, I admit EVERY inanimate object in life can be repaired. "That's the best durn axe I've ever had. Replaced the handle three times and the head twice".Bullshit.