Pull start problems

[Psychlopath]

Yesterday, the starter gear on my rider munched; today, I'm left trying to start with the pull start while a new gear is on order.

Mower is a 33114S with a Briggs 12HP flathead model 281707, type 0029 01.

It started up today on the first pull, no problem...about 30 seconds into running, a huge scream started coming from the pull rope area, so I shut it down, pulled the engine cover and put a few drops of 3 in 1 oil into the little hole in the top where the pull start engages the engine. It's made this "Bad bearing," sound before and the local mower shop had suggested the oil there and it seemed to cure it.

Now, when I pull the pull rope I get one of two situations, seemingly at random. Most of the time, I can pull the rope about half way, then it binds hard enough that the mower wants to flop on its side; BUT, if I remember and just keep tension on that pull rope when that happens, it'll gradually pull all the way out. When it DOESN'T bind up like that and try to flop on its side, there's no resistance whatsoever...which led to me elbowing a tree and that kinda hurt.

The binding doesn't feel like a hard stop, metal impacting metal kind of thing but more of a high compression sort of feel, like a buffered stop.

Anyhow, I now have a partially mowed front yard and I'm not sure where to start looking.

Recent work done was a new muffler added yesterday and a valve adjustment and lap the day before.

The problem started after putting a little oil under the pull start, so maybe I shouldn't have done that?

Thanks in advance.

 

[mechanic mark]

Oil will not be of any trouble, I would remove starter assembly from top of engine & place a small amount of grease inside cup sides where starter clutch feet contact cup.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/manuals/results?NTT=281707-0029* operators manual & parts list

http://www.ccdist.com/_serviceManuals/briggs/276781.pdf engine service manual

That's a slang term to help you understand. Spring/ ratchet & adapter ratchet spring items 63 & 64 pages 5 & 8 in parts manual. See page 6 in operators manual for valve adjustment for your engine: intake .005-.007 exhaust .009-.011.

 

[Psychlopath]

...place a small amount of grease inside cup sides where starter clutch feet contact cup...

Thanks for the quick answer!!!

Can you clarify this, though?

While you gave some great links (which I've been looking for) I don't see "Starter clutch feet," listed in the parts catalogue. Can you give me a reference number I should be looking at?

 

[Rivets]

Sounds to me like the starter clutch needs to be replaced or given a good cleaning. I'm talking about part number 66. You can remove it and disassemble it. Clean all parts with solvent, and reassemble dry. Also, clean the end of the crankshaft with abrasive paper. Put a very light coat of grease on the crankshaft and reinstall the clutch, making sure you torque it properly. That is the only pass to lubricate, as lubricant will attract dirt, and the problem again.

 

[Psychlopath]

Today, I had some time to get to work on this thing.

I followed the advice given. I didn't notice a difference; I wound up breaking the recoil starter after a few pulls and there isn't one in town that I've found, so a new one is on order. I DID get a new starter gear installed and it seems like even the electric starter has a hard time turning the engine over with the plug installed. The battery is charging now, after being run down trying to start it.

With the plug removed, I was able to spin the engine freely with the recoil starter and the electric starter. With the plug installed, it feels like it has too much compression or has something engaged while cranking, but I had the blade disengaged and my foot on the clutch pedal while using the electric starter. I'd think that maybe I over-ground the valves, if it hadn't run for about 20 minutes or so after setting and the clearance hadn't been measured as OK.

I adjusted the air-gap, installed a new plug, changed the fuel filter and reset the low and high mixture screws IAW the manuals in the links above and, if I didn't mention it, rebuilt the carburetor last season.

I also grounded the plug and got a nice blue spark when I spun the engine with the starter.

I'm missing something to make it run, and I'm not sure what it is.

UPDATE: This morning, with a nice fresh battery charge, I tried to start the engine. The starter still struggles with the engine at some point during the revolution, but it started up and ran well, albeit a little fat at idle. I was able to mow the lawn with some slight bogging in tall grass, so I'll adjust the governor IAW the above manuals later today.

I dont know if letting the starter struggle a little is good enough, and I'll know a little more about how it feels when I install the recoil starter. I removed and cleaned the grounds and studs for the starter and no improvement.

 

[Mow Joe]

You may have given the exhaust valve too much clearance. This would hinder the working of the compression release.

 

[Psychlopath]

I thought only overhead valve engines had a compression release?

Can you tell me how to troubleshoot this? I looked through the manuals above and didn't see it for my series of engine.

 

[Mow Joe]

It would be on the exhaust valve. Not all engines have it, but most of the larger ones do. I've been out of the business for twenty years and don't remember if this engine has it or not.

 

[Mikel1]

Accidentally looked up wrong engine earlier but on this model I don't see one but hard to tell on diagram. Still not a bad idea to check the valve clearances.

 

[KrashnKraka]

[...]

The problem started after putting a little oil under the pull start, so maybe I shouldn't have done that?

Thanks in advance.

No... yer shouldna not done that.

Back in the day it was practice to use graphite powder in a puff pack.
Today there are some quality "dry lube" products in an aerosol pack.
Apply after finishing your mow and the machine is always right to go
every time you haul it out.
Also excellent for extending the life of wheels, adjusters, throttle and
choke mechanisms...stuff you woulddn't put grease on in a blue fit and
thus wear quicker than they should.

Trust that helps some.

KK