Export thread

New member here in desperate need of some help.

A bit of background on this pressure washer first. I used this pressure washer for about a full day or so, pressure washing our deck, house and driveway. In total this thing probably ran for 4 - 6 hours that day. The pressure washer has ALWAYS been difficult to start. I usually have to pull on the starting cord about 30 - 45 times before it will finally start up. When it is running / idle it pulsates, but as soon as you pull the trigger on the pressure washer it seems to run fine. After that day of use I tried to start it up again because I needed to get a few more spots on my house and deck that were streaky, but no matter what I have tried I can't get the thing to start. Below is what I have attempted and the specs of this pressure washer for reference.

The first thing I did was remove the carb and clean it with carb cleaner. Making sure that all the jets were cleaned out. I then put it back together and tried to start it up but I had no luck. The pressure washer would make like a "puff puff puff" or "blub blub blub blub" sound but it would never fire. I checked the spark plug and I am getting spark. I put my thumb over the spark plug hole and I feel air pushing my thumb off of the hole. I also made sure the spark plug comes out a bit wet so I know that gas is getting to this part of the engine. I would also say that the engine would *almost* back fire when I would attempt to start it up. However, it never made the loud bang that a back fire typically does.

The next thing I tried was replacing the head gasket. The "puff" sounds lead me to believe that the gasket was leaking air and perhaps that was the problem. I ordered a Briggs & Stratton gasket set and replaced a few of them that came with the kit. Specifically the following gaskets: Gasket-Cylinder Head, Gasket Plate, Gasket-Rocker Cover. While I had it all torn apart I also cleaned up all the carbon deposits that I could using a wire brush. Since I ordered the gasket set I also spent an extra $20 on a brand new carb just in case I did not do a good enough job cleaning out the original one and a new spark plug. Once I swapped all these gaskets I had to readjust the OHV valve intake and exhaust. This is where I am having some troubles as I'm not exactly sure what the specs are for my particular engine. I seemed to be the closest with getting this to start using the following: Intake=.004 - .006 ; Exhaust = .009 - .011. The engine seemed like it wanted to try and fire up but right before you would typically hear it start to run it would die. I then tried to pull a few more times but did not have any more luck getting even close to starting.. I also tried adjusting to Intake=.005 - .007 ; Exhaust .007 - .009. This adjustment did not seem to be close since it did not get close to starting.

At this point I'm at a loss of what to try next. I would very much like to figure this out and repair it myself since I have so much time invested in it. The good members of this forum can you please answer me the following questions:

1. Can you tell me what the OHV specs should be for my particular engine?
2. Can you confirm that the left valve is the exhaust and the right is the intake on the OHV?
3. What else should I try to get this thing to start?

The Model number of this craftsman is 580.768040 Serial is 5376140
The number printed on the OHV cover is Top Number is 981228FD, Bottom number is 121432 0149 E1
Also printed on the engine is Intek 206 6.5HP.

I greatly appreciate any advice / tips / help that anyone will offer. Also if I left out any bit of information that you may find helpful please let me know and I will be glad to provide it.

Thanks a bunch!

The valve settings are the same, IN .005 EX .005 there is no left and right on the valves think you mean top and bottom, bottom I think is the exhaust, you say the plug is wet so I would I'd be looking to see if you have spark.

EngineMan said:

The valve settings are the same, IN .005 EX .005 there is no left and right on the valves think you mean top and bottom, bottom I think is the exhaust, you say the plug is wet so I would I'd be looking to see if you have spark.

Click to expand...

Thank you for your reply. I will double check that I am getting spark, but I do believe I am.

I've attached a couple of photos showing the valves and why I described them as left and right. I believe the left one is the exhaust and the right one is the intake.

The BOTTOM valve in this pic is your EXHAUST valve.....

He does mean 'left' and 'right' as you look at the engine on the pump. His picture is rotated 90 degrees CCW. So, yes, the "left" valve is the exhaust.

When you're trying to start this engine, do you have the water supply already turned on?

If so, try this:

Turn the water supply off.

Squeeze the trigger on the wand to release any pressure in the system.

Go through the starting routine. When the engine starts, turn on the water supply.

cpurvis said:

He does mean 'left' and 'right' as you look at the engine on the pump. His picture is rotated 90 degrees CCW. So, yes, the "left" valve is the exhaust.

When you're trying to start this engine, do you have the water supply already turned on?

If so, try this:

Turn the water supply off.

Squeeze the trigger on the wand to release any pressure in the system.

Go through the starting routine. When the engine starts, turn on the water supply.

Click to expand...

Yes I always had the water supply on when trying to start the engine. The manual stated that I must have it on or else I risk damaging the engine/water pump. I will try it out though with the water supply off.

I was able to adjust the IN and EX valves to .005. The engine now fires up for about a half second and then dies. Then it is hard to start again. Seems like the fuel is not flowing properly despite a brand new carb and fresh gas.

I think I am going to remove the gas tank and the fuel lines and clean it all out to see if that will help with the fuel delivery. Is there anything special that I need to do with a brand new carb? All I did was installed the valve choke and the shaft choke. I never pulled apart the Float Bowl since it was already assembled. Perhaps I will also take the Float bowl off and make sure that the float and valve needle are seated properly.

Any further suggestions are welcome. I greatly appreciate everyone's responses in helping me resolve this issue.

Remain calm.

No, it won't damage your pump. I start mine that way all the time. It is no different than the pump running with out the trigger pulled.

cpurvis said:

Remain calm.

No, it won't damage your pump. I start mine that way all the time. It is no different than the pump running with out the trigger pulled.

Click to expand...

Actually it is different. The water is the lube for the pump. Now if there is water in the pump and you shut off the water supply, start the engine and then turn the water on it will buy you a short period of time. If you have seen how many warranty claims I have to deny because somebody turned on the water but didn't bleed the air out of the hose to the pump and actually melted the white plastic washers that hold the seals in place, stuck them to the pistons and then strung melted plastic through the pump you wouldn't start yours without the water turned on and water flowing from the gun.

ILENGINE said:

Actually it is different. The water is the lube for the pump. Now if there is water in the pump and you shut off the water supply, start the engine and then turn the water on it will buy you a short period of time. If you have seen how many warranty claims I have to deny because somebody turned on the water but didn't bleed the air out of the hose to the pump and actually melted the white plastic washers that hold the seals in place, stuck them to the pistons and then strung melted plastic through the pump you wouldn't start yours without the water turned on and water flowing from the gun.

Click to expand...

I guess I didn't make myself abundantly clear that water HAS been turned on and the air bled out when I said:

Squeeze the trigger on the wand to release any pressure in the system.

Click to expand...

There wouldn't BE any pressure in the system if I hadn't already turned on the water, then shut it off.

ILENGINE said:

Actually it is different. The water is the lube for the pump. Now if there is water in the pump and you shut off the water supply, start the engine and then turn the water on it will buy you a short period of time. If you have seen how many warranty claims I have to deny because somebody turned on the water but didn't bleed the air out of the hose to the pump and actually melted the white plastic washers that hold the seals in place, stuck them to the pistons and then strung melted plastic through the pump you wouldn't start yours without the water turned on and water flowing from the gun.

Click to expand...

AND even the BIG BOYS of commercial outfits will tell ya, it's better to start the engine while squeezing the trigger with the water turned on to bleed the system and to ease the starting process.

Boobola, I have worked on several over the years that you won't get them started without pulling the trigger when you crank the engine.

ILENGINE said:

Boobola, I have worked on several over the years that you won't get them started without pulling the trigger when you crank the engine.

Click to expand...

I'm in TOTAL AGREEMENT with EVERYTHING you have stated, I was trying to further YOUR statements, (cpurvis is incorrect on this one) I know for sure, as my son in law fried HIS pump, because of no water, ... and another mistake folks make, is leaving the pump/engine running for longer than 2 min. (or less in some cases) without pulling the trigger, for a few minutes, the heat build when the unloader valve goes into by-pass mode is critical, my next unloader, WILL have a thermal AND pressure relief valve on it, coupled with the E-Z start feature, hopefully, you didn't take offense to my statement. ..... Boo

Total agreement Boo. I have seen pressure washer pumps go into thermal bypass in less than 30 seconds, And the open temp of that valve is close to 200 degrees. which may not sound like that much, but it will cause pump cavitation and that will kill a pump quick.

I took the gas tank off and cleaned it out as best as I could by shaking it with gasoline inside, draining it a few times and then blowing the gas tank out with compressed air, along with the hoses and on/off valves. I let it sit a few days to completely dry out. I then put it all back together and I'm still seeing the same results. I removed the new carb and re installed the old one in case it was restricting fuel in some way. The pressure washer seemed to run a tad bit longer(as in a few seconds). I would get a few good "vrooms" out of it but then it would always die and return to not starting again. I would let it sit for a while and try starting again and it would fire up for a couple seconds and then die. Rinse and repeat.

I'm stumped.

EngineMan said:

The valve settings are the same, IN .005 EX .005 there is no left and right on the valves think you mean top and bottom, bottom I think is the exhaust, you say the plug is wet so I would I'd be looking to see if you have spark.

Click to expand...

Some additional information that may be helpful.

When I try and pull on the starter cord it will sometimes jerk back very hard. So much that it flies out of my hand and will wrap around the leg of the pressure washer. One time it hit me and it stung pretty good. This does not happen every time I try and start it though.

I also looked at the specs again for the IN and EX OHV valves and I see that there are some other specs that can be set for my particular model? Could this possibly be what is going on with it? Specifically I found these settings but I am unsure of the specific model and the difference between the different types to correctly identify my engine type. The reason I bring this back up is because when I try and star the pressure washer I sometimes see almost like white smoke or perhaps some sort of moisture poofing out of where the air intake is (I have it off temporarily until I can get this thing to start and run regularly)

L-Head Aluminum/ Cast Sleeve Single Cylinder
IN: .005 - .007
EX: .007 - .009

OHV Single Cylinder Horizontal Shaft:
IN: .004 - .006
EX: .009 - .011

OHV Single Cylinder Vertical Shaft:
IN: .004 - .006
EX: .004 - .006

OK I am late to this party.... LOL You have the Horizontal shaft newer style briggs engine... You did your home work on the valve adjustments....... Sooooo....

Go with 5 thou on the Intake and 10 thou on the exhaust...

That might be why the rope is yanked out of your hand........ BUT still hold that trigger while you crank it.... I know it's a Pain in the Butt to do it that way, but it is what it is.... I have to do it myself on mine......

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

OK I am late to this party.... LOL You have the Horizontal shaft newer style briggs engine... You did your home work on the valve adjustments....... Sooooo....

Go with 5 thou on the Intake and 10 thou on the exhaust...

That might be why the rope is yanked out of your hand........ BUT still hold that trigger while you crank it.... I know it's a Pain in the Butt to do it that way, but it is what it is.... I have to do it myself on mine......

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

Click to expand...

I adjusted the valves to Intake = .005 & Exhaust = .010. I put a piece of velcro around the trigger while I tried cranking on it. The cord was still yanked out of my hand about every 3rd or 4th pull. The engine did not fire up at all during these attempts. I would get abour 4 to 5 chugs out of it when I would yank on the pull cord. Could this be related to the crankshaft key being slightly sheared? I've done some reading regarding other people's issues and a few of them had slightly broken crankshaft keys.

Thanks for chiming in!

Yes very much sounds like a sheared key.....

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Yes very much sounds like a sheared key.....

Click to expand...

I was able to tear this apart today and lookie what I found!

I placed the order today for some replacements to be sent out. Unfortunately no one seems to carry these in stock around me.

Would this sheared key cause all of these problems that I have been having? Also, should I be able to easily spin the crankshaft by hand with it all torn apart like this? I tried to spin it and it takes some effort to get it to spin, but I'm thinking that this is normal and that it would be a bad thing if it were really easy?

Thanks for your help!

Spinning it with the water pump onto the engine would not be that easy....! seems you have uncovered the problem, or one of them.:wink:

Yes a sheared key will cause a no starting issue and your problems or some of them in your first post....

Yes you can spin the flywheel by hand with no key in it.......

Good news! I was able to replace the key and she fired up on the 3rd pull. I hear this strange tapping sound when the engine is running now. I may have put too much oil in it. Could this possibly be the cause of the tapping noise? Either that or something is slightly lose causing the sound. I don't want to have to tear this thing apart again especially now that it is running. Perhaps the tapping noise is normal and I am just being paranoid?

I appreciate everyone's help in getting this pressure washer back up and running!