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Can someone tell me, how does this thing run when there's no obvious air filter?
Even though the machine is about 5 yrs old, it's like brand new. I was the first user, and have only put about 4 hrs on it over the past 3 yrs. When we got some snow last month, I could not get it to start. I did run it last summer just to check it out for the up coming season. While troubleshooting the problem, I could not locate any air filter.
I can get it to fire/start, by removing the spark plug, shooting quick burst of starting fluid into the head. The spark plug has good fire, had put fresh gas in.
Just puzzled, as this defies what I was thinking there should be some way for this engine to get air to the carb. I've looked at the schematics, and can not locate one.

Most likely the air intake is under item 50 on the diagram https://www.partstree.com/models/pr-241-961920086-01-poulan-pro-snow-thrower-2014-10/engine-24/ And snow engines don't use an air filter. no reason since if you are blowing snow there is no dust to get sucked into the engine. And blowing snow can ice and clog and air filter. So the carb is under a cover that gets heat off of the muffler to help warm the carb and prevent icing.

Check that you have turned the fuel shut off valve to the on position. Please don't ask how I know this. !!!

OldDiyer said:

Check that you have turned the fuel shut off valve to the on position. Please don't ask how I know this. !!!

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Yep, I completely understand that. Been through the whole "start up procedure" numerous times.
Thanks..

Well so far I'm not able to get this thing to start. So I have a couple questions.

1. Is it possible, and if so how, to remove just the fuel tank?
2. How can I drain the fuel from the tank? I don't find any way to do this. I've looked at the machine itself, and the manual schematics.
   1. I guess I could get a siphon. Used to use a section of that clear pvc tubing, but don't have that right now.

The thing will start, although not run, when I shoot some starting fluid into the cylinder head. That leads me to believe there's a fuel supply problem, which would or could be a fuel pump, on larger engines anyway. I'd guess this is inside the carb?

Ron_P said:

Well so far I'm not able to get this thing to start. So I have a couple questions.

1. Is it possible, and if so how, to remove just the fuel tank?
2. How can I drain the fuel from the tank? I don't find any way to do this. I've looked at the machine itself, and the manual schematics.
   1. I guess I could get a siphon. Used to use a section of that clear pvc tubing, but don't have that right now.

The thing will start, although not run, when I shoot some starting fluid into the cylinder head. That leads me to believe there's a fuel supply problem, which would or could be a fuel pump, on larger engines anyway. I'd guess this is inside the carb?

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You need to drain, syphon, and blow out fuel tank. Water will be all the way at bottom if present. Look for fuel pump coming off of fuel line, if no pump then it is gravity feed. If it will start when giving it a bit of fuel in carburetor, but not stay running, probably has a dirty carburetor. If you know how to correctly clean carburetor, then do so. If not, please take it to a shop. Also, install fuel shut off valve if space allows.

Add an additive to the gas to eliminate any moisture in the fuel. Have you tried shooting gas into the cylinder to see if it will fire up? If it won't fire up, then there is possibly a lack of compression and needs a rebuild. The starting fluid is more volatile and will fire easier than gas.

Bet you never treated your fuel with a stabilizer. You need to take the carb apart and give it and the jets a good cleaning. I can almost guarantee this is your problem.

Ron_P said:

Can someone tell me, how does this thing run when there's no obvious air filter?
Even though the machine is about 5 yrs old, it's like brand new. I was the first user, and have only put about 4 hrs on it over the past 3 yrs. When we got some snow last month, I could not get it to start. I did run it last summer just to check it out for the up coming season. While troubleshooting the problem, I could not locate any air filter.
I can get it to fire/start, by removing the spark plug, shooting quick burst of starting fluid into the head. The spark plug has good fire, had put fresh gas in.
Just puzzled, as this defies what I was thinking there should be some way for this engine to get air to the carb. I've looked at the schematics, and can not locate one.

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Typically snow blowers don’t have an air filter, since there is no dust stirring up in the snow. Sounds like a simple carburetor blockage. You can get one on Amazon for $15.

YouTube can be your friend for carb removal/cleaning/replacement. Could be a simple as water in fuel or car bowl, plugged (or even partially) orifice in carb from debris in fuel, critter in fuel line or carb, depending on age you could have a swollen/plugged fuel line. Perhaps it could be the spark plug is weak and fires on starting fluid but not fuel.
A quick once over/troubleshooting at small engine mechanic should be a quick diagnosis and could save you a lot of time, if you do not prefer to tinker.

Ron_P said:

Can someone tell me, how does this thing run when there's no obvious air filter?
Even though the machine is about 5 yrs old, it's like brand new. I was the first user, and have only put about 4 hrs on it over the past 3 yrs. When we got some snow last month, I could not get it to start. I did run it last summer just to check it out for the up coming season. While troubleshooting the problem, I could not locate any air filter.
I can get it to fire/start, by removing the spark plug, shooting quick burst of starting fluid into the head. The spark plug has good fire, had put fresh gas in.
Just puzzled, as this defies what I was thinking there should be some way for this engine to get air to the carb. I've looked at the schematics, and can not locate one.

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Please STUDY the Manual if you have one. Drain the Float bowl if you are able carefully replace it marking the Orientation if you do. Some bowls have an obvious drain. Snowblowers do not have air filters. Studies have shown there is no dust during snow events. Drain ALL the fuel out of the tank, a Turkey Baster works if you do not have a syphon. Re use it in a vehicle or properly dispose of it.
Put 1/4 tank of Fresh Fuel in tank, Remove Spark plug and replace with new one. Then turn Fuel valve ON if you have one. Set to Full Choke and press Primer Valve 3 times. Be ready to back off the choke when it fires first Pull. Do NOT continue to try with Full Choke.

If there are 2 bolts on the carb bowl. The one at a 45 degree angle is a drain. If there is, remove that bolt and drain some gas out. Catch the gas in a clear container ( old jar?) See what that it looks and smells like. It should be clear and should smell like gasoline not like varnish or any other skunky stuff. If only a single center bolt on the carb loosen it a couple of turns till it begins to leak gas and let it drain. Either way ideally after a short time the gas should start to run out clear. At this point you can replace or re- tighten the bolt and try to restart the engine.
You may get lucky and not have to remove the bowl completely and clean it out. Not sure how adept you are at this kind of service. Its not a huge deal to remove the bowl clean and replace it, but it does complicate things. Is this a 4 cycle or a 2 cycle? and what make of engine. If 2 cycle the gas will have a tint to it, so good clean fuel mix may run out with a red or green tint to it based on the 2 cycle oil used.
If the jets are clogged more service will be reqjred

Once running and for storage, I would either change to ethynol free gas, or use a fuel additive and run the engine with the fuel shut off until it stalls. Fuel sitting in the carb over long periods of time will gel and block the jets in the carb. If not there, you will have to install an inexpensive in-line fuel shutoff valve. Either that, or drain the tank and run dry.

I appreciate all the suggestions. I'll be trying some of them.
This is a 4-stroke engine. It has the electric start to use when the engine is cold, and the pull start for when it's warmed up. While sitting it had no gas in it. Last summer when I tested it, I put a very small of gas in, ran it until it died. Then shut off the fuel (it does have a fuel shut off), then tried running it to make sure there's no gas in the carb or cylinder.
I didn't have any stabil in the gas I put into it. Just what was in my gas can from mowing. I had filled the can up last Nov.
I have cleaned small engine carbs before, my chainsaw and weedeater. Had to replace the primer bulbs on them and a couple of the lines.
Thanks again for the help.

Ron_P said:

I appreciate all the suggestions. I'll be trying some of them.
This is a 4-stroke engine. It has the electric start to use when the engine is cold, and the pull start for when it's warmed up. While sitting it had no gas in it. Last summer when I tested it, I put a very small of gas in, ran it until it died. Then shut off the fuel (it does have a fuel shut off), then tried running it to make sure there's no gas in the carb or cylinder.
I didn't have any stabil in the gas I put into it. Just what was in my gas can from mowing. I had filled the can up last Nov.
I have cleaned small engine carbs before, my chainsaw and weedeater. Had to replace the primer bulbs on them and a couple of the lines.
Thanks again for the help.

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Are you using (or able to) non-wthanol fuel? Thankfully we have it readily available at pump in certain places in MO.

13brian said:

Are you using (or able to) non-wthanol fuel? Thankfully we have it readily available at pump in certain places in MO.

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No, not available anywhere around here.

Is this a Honda style carb with two bolts on the bottom of a metal bowl.? If so there is a brass orifice in the center of the carb. It will require a very fine stiff wire, insert the wire up through the orifice and make sure it is open. The wire should be able to insert a full inch to inch and a half. If it is open gas should be able to pas through the carb and enter the engine.
Does the carb have a primer? Is the hose cracked or broken anywhere You should hear a slushy sound when you depress the primer bulb, if not the primer isn’t moving air into the carb and a break in the hose can be the culprit

I just looked at an IPL for a version of your snowblower. Keeping in mind that the PR241 model is like saying it’s a Ford Mustang when what is needs is a VIN number to get exact parts. There is a much longer number that begins with a 9 that is needed for exact parts matchup.

All that said it looks like there is a primer, and it looks like the engine is a Chinese made 208 cc. And it does have a carb with the drain bolt. It should be a 10 mm head and you can remove it and drain the carb. Once the bolt is out look at the tip if the bolt, if it is ‘cruded’ up with dirty deposits.. chances are the inside of the bowl is’cruded’ up and the bowl may need to be removed and cleaned.

One more thing…sometimes the carb gets so cruddy at the inlet that the float needle sticks and gas cannot enter the bowl. If you remove the drain bolt with the gas shut off open the gas should continue to run through. If only a small quantity of old crappy gas comes out and it stops, your float needle is stuck. I normally remove the carb completely and fully disassemble and clean. Good luck

Snow blowers have no air filter because, as said above, the swirling snow can ice over the filter blocking air flow. Also, snow is not dirty. You can drain the fuel tank by closing the shut-off valve, disconnecting the fuel line from the carb, get something to catch the fuel and open the shut-off valve. But that is only necessary if there is debris in the fuel tank. Look in the fuel tank with a flashlight and look for debris. Have the tank quite low and slosh the fuel back and forth to get a good look. If there is debris, drain it and flush with more fuel. If there is only water use gas line anti freeze to absorb it. I use 10% alcohol unleaded fuel in all my yard equipment because the alcohol absorbs any water. If you want to clean the carb remove it from the engine, remove the bowl and check for dirt. If you are new at this, take cell phone photographs of anything you want to take apart, so you see how it goes back together. Remove the float and float needle valve and clean. The use a pressurized can of carb cleaner to blow out all the various orifices, or orificia in latin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning carbs. When you insert the spray can extension adapter into an orifice and spray, the exit hole may surprise you and squirt the spray into your eyes. The carb cleaner will ruin your plastic googles, but think of what it will do to your eyes. Don't ask how I know this!

Ron_P said:

Can someone tell me, how does this thing run when there's no obvious air filter?
Even though the machine is about 5 yrs old, it's like brand new. I was the first user, and have only put about 4 hrs on it over the past 3 yrs. When we got some snow last month, I could not get it to start. I did run it last summer just to check it out for the up coming season. While troubleshooting the problem, I could not locate any air filter.
I can get it to fire/start, by removing the spark plug, shooting quick burst of starting fluid into the head. The spark plug has good fire, had put fresh gas in.
Just puzzled, as this defies what I was thinking there should be some way for this engine to get air to the carb. I've looked at the schematics, and can not locate one.

Click to expand...

Definitely have a fuel delivery problem. I would start and disconnect the fuel line at the carb,see if you have good gas flow. Could be float is stuck. If you do then you have a carb issue . If the carb has a fuel solenoid valve make sure that’s working. If it stuck in the close position it will not allow fuel to flow through to the main jet.