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Oil coming out fuel pump
#1
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
Thanks for reading. I have a JD LA105 with a 19.5 single cylinder OHV. Replaced the head gasket, common cause, the mower starts and runs great but after a minute or two it starts bleeding oil out the fuel pump and breather tube. Wispy smoke when I pull the dip stick too. I adjusted the valves after the head gasket, took the fly wheel off and checked the valve which looked fine but there was no hole for oil to return to the crankcase. I am hesitant to tear it down for rings because it runs great otherwise. The mower has 180hrs. Anything else that can build pressure like that? Oil is slightly low from having come out and no fuel smell
#2
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
The head gasket is blown. Seen it blow oil out of the fuel pump a few times.
#3
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
Ditto, blown head gasket, although, sometimes i see that wispy smoke on engines with good head gaskets, specifically briggs vtwins. Anyway, I'm not sure that that engine is supposed to have a fuel pump, usually those singles dont.
#4
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Some of the Intek singles have a fuel pump. It is located on the left rear corner of the engine and powered by a pulse line coming off of the dipstick tube.Ditto, blown head gasket, although, sometimes i see that wispy smoke on engines with good head gaskets, specifically briggs vtwins. Anyway, I'm not sure that that engine is supposed to have a fuel pump, usually those singles dont.
#5
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
I agree, i did replace the head gasket and it was blown but I still am having the issue. I changed the fuel/pulse lines to the fuel pump and checked the breather but I still have crankcase pressure evident from the fuel pump leaking oil and the breather blowing off the air intake, especially under load but after cooling down it fires right up and takes a few minutes to build pressure.
Again, I did pull the flywheel and checked the breather valve too. In my mind I am thinking something else is contributing to the increased pressure like exhaust but I checked that too
Again, I did pull the flywheel and checked the breather valve too. In my mind I am thinking something else is contributing to the increased pressure like exhaust but I checked that too
#6
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
A leakdown test would tell you more.
If the head was warped the new gasket could have failed on startup. Does it start right up but blows a puff of smoke the runs fine with no smoke? A slightly blown head gasket on that engine will do that.
If the head was warped the new gasket could have failed on startup. Does it start right up but blows a puff of smoke the runs fine with no smoke? A slightly blown head gasket on that engine will do that.
#7
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
With the breather hose blowing off of the air intake makes me wonder if the orifice in the air intake is clogged. Some of those engine in were the breather hose connects to the air cleaner elbow has a dome shaped insert that presses into the air intake and which the breather hose actually presses over to hold it in place. Sometimes when the breather hose comes off the orifice will come out with the Hose. If for some reason the hole in that dome insert is plugged would also cause your issues.I agree, i did replace the head gasket and it was blown but I still am having the issue. I changed the fuel/pulse lines to the fuel pump and checked the breather but I still have crankcase pressure evident from the fuel pump leaking oil and the breather blowing off the air intake, especially under load but after cooling down it fires right up and takes a few minutes to build pressure.
Again, I did pull the flywheel and checked the breather valve too. In my mind I am thinking something else is contributing to the increased pressure like exhaust but I checked that too
#8
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
I like that idea. I checked the reed valve on the engine but didnt look close at the air filter housing. The hose was blowing off the housing and I put a hose clamp on it (stupid). I have similar engines for parts. Thanks! I will let you know. I find it odd that it run so good but still has the pressure issue. What’s the likely hood that it run great with worn rings or warped head? Never did a leak down test and I was fixing it for a neighbor. At first it was a mouse nest packrd in the shroud and a chewed coil. Then it was a valve adjustment, new oil, filters. Started up good and ran so I gave it back. Then he said it was doing the oil thing and smoking, so I changed the head gasket and re adjusted the valves. That’s the backstoryWith the breather hose blowing off of the air intake makes me wonder if the orifice in the air intake is clogged. Some of those engine in were the breather hose connects to the air cleaner elbow has a dome shaped insert that presses into the air intake and which the breather hose actually presses over to hold it in place. Sometimes when the breather hose comes off the orifice will come out with the Hose. If for some reason the hole in that dome insert is plugged would also cause your issues.
#9
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
No smoke until it runs for a bit and I engage the PTOA leakdown test would tell you more.
If the head was warped the new gasket could have failed on startup. Does it start right up but blows a puff of smoke the runs fine with no smoke? A slightly blown head gasket on that engine will do that.
#10
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
How fast does fresh oil turn black? A blown head gasket will turn oil black in a couple of hours of running.
#11
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
No smoke until it runs for a bit and I engage the PTOA leakdown test would tell you more.
If the head was warped the new gasket could have failed on startup. Does it start right up but blows a puff of smoke the runs fine with no smoke? A slightly blown head gasket on that engine will do that.
it was black before changing the head gasket but beautiful light gold since but it hasnt been run more than 5-10 minutes at a time since because it was exhibiting the original symptoms (making a mess). Part of me thought a dead mouse in exhaust clogging it up but then it wouldn’t run well. I am missing something. It runs great through high speed to idle, starts quick and runs smooth…even when oil starts coming out of the fuel pump. It does not like having the pto on, it runs but soon smokesHow fast does fresh oil turn black? A blown head gasket will turn oil black in a couple of hours of running.
#13
O
Olrecker
If you have any additional ideas out side of another head gasket which would probably be futile without out another head.
I was trying to post pics of the head off but they were too big.
O
Olrecker
I checked the breather to the airbox and I see that small hole but I blew through it and it was clear. I may be at the point of having them take it to a shop. Too much for my time. I would be more inspired if it was my own but I take care of my stuff. Usually just belts and oil and stuff.With the breather hose blowing off of the air intake makes me wonder if the orifice in the air intake is clogged. Some of those engine in were the breather hose connects to the air cleaner elbow has a dome shaped insert that presses into the air intake and which the breather hose actually presses over to hold it in place. Sometimes when the breather hose comes off the orifice will come out with the Hose. If for some reason the hole in that dome insert is plugged would also cause your issues.
If you have any additional ideas out side of another head gasket which would probably be futile without out another head.
I was trying to post pics of the head off but they were too big.
#14
O
Olrecker
How swapable are the heads if I have another similar 19.5 briggs?
O
Olrecker
I checked the breather to the airbox and I see that small hole but I blew through it and it was clear. I may be at the point of having them take it to a shop. Too much for my time. I would be more inspired if it was my own but I take care of my stuff. Usually just belts and oil and stuff.
If you have any additional ideas out side of another head gasket which would probably be futile without out another head.
I was trying to post pics of the head off but they were too big.
I was rude and didn’t thank you all for the timely replies. I apologize. Thank you!!I checked the breather to the airbox and I see that small hole but I blew through it and it was clear. I may be at the point of having them take it to a shop. Too much for my time. I would be more inspired if it was my own but I take care of my stuff. Usually just belts and oil and stuff.
If you have any additional ideas out side of another head gasket which would probably be futile without out another head.
I was trying to post pics of the head off but they were too big.
How swapable are the heads if I have another similar 19.5 briggs?
#16
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
If you take the head off you can put in on a piece of glas with some high grit sandpaper like 600 and hold it flat and swirl it in a figure 8 for about 30 seconds and see if it is warped by the scratch pattern on the head. I sand heads flat if they are warped.
#17
S
slomo
S
slomo
I take some 150 grit on the garage door window. Let the PAPER DO ALL THE WORK. Lap the head and block where the gaskets sits. You will quickly see your head, like every one I've done is warped. Little 400 grit to polish her off. Rotate the head while lapping. Use your OPEN FINGERS while making swirling motions. You don't need to push hard at all.If you take the head off you can put in on a piece of glas with some high grit sandpaper like 600 and hold it flat and swirl it in a figure 8 for about 30 seconds and see if it is warped by the scratch pattern on the head. I sand heads flat if they are warped.
#18
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
That is a great tip. Thank you.
The one I am working on is a LA105 and the one I was going harvest off of is LA110
The one I am working on is a LA105 and the one I was going harvest off of is LA110
#19
A
Auto Doc's
Sand it until it is nice and level all across. The old head gasket should be fine unless it lost some face material, if so, replace it. Reinstall the head and torque the bolts down equally in three steps to spec. Button it back up and adjust everything and run it to see if problem is resolved.
The next possible issue is the crank case breather has failed. It is rare, but it can happen.
A
Auto Doc's
Pull the head back off and get some 220-grit wet/dry sandpaper and a very good true flat surface like a tempered glass panel. Lay the paper on the flat surface and hold it. Place the gasket surface of the head on the sandpaper and slowly scrub it around to sand the gasket surface. Look at the gasket surface and you will see the results of high and low spots.Thanks for reading. I have a JD LA105 with a 19.5 single cylinder OHV. Replaced the head gasket, common cause, the mower starts and runs great but after a minute or two it starts bleeding oil out the fuel pump and breather tube. Wispy smoke when I pull the dip stick too. I adjusted the valves after the head gasket, took the fly wheel off and checked the valve which looked fine but there was no hole for oil to return to the crankcase. I am hesitant to tear it down for rings because it runs great otherwise. The mower has 180hrs. Anything else that can build pressure like that? Oil is slightly low from having come out and no fuel smell
Sand it until it is nice and level all across. The old head gasket should be fine unless it lost some face material, if so, replace it. Reinstall the head and torque the bolts down equally in three steps to spec. Button it back up and adjust everything and run it to see if problem is resolved.
The next possible issue is the crank case breather has failed. It is rare, but it can happen.
#20
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
Well the neighbor came and said to keep the tractor but took the bagger off it. I guess I feel less conscious of pulling the head again and trying the sand paper. If I messed it up I would have been guilty but now if I fix it I can let him know and get paid for my time. I didn’t want to charge him if he’s giving the tractorI take some 150 grit on the garage door window. Let the PAPER DO ALL THE WORK. Lap the head and block where the gaskets sits. You will quickly see your head, like every one I've done is warped. Little 400 grit to polish her off. Rotate the head while lapping. Use your OPEN FINGERS while making swirling motions. You don't need to push hard at all.
#21
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
I pulled thre head and sanded it for 1.5hrs. All by hand on tempered glass. It’s mostly smooth, except area outside bolt pattern that is pitted a bit but nice inside. Used 220 (5 sheets) w duct tape on the corners and one sheet of 600. Seemed to work better with some penetrating oil on the paper but shortened the life of paper and tape. I kept alternating the direction. All polished smooth. Waiting on new head gasket, old one separatedPull the head back off and get some 220-grit wet/dry sandpaper and a very good true flat surface like a tempered glass panel. Lay the paper on the flat surface and hold it. Place the gasket surface of the head on the sandpaper and slowly scrub it around to sand the gasket surface. Look at the gasket surface and you will see the results of high and low spots.
Sand it until it is nice and level all across. The old head gasket should be fine unless it lost some face material, if so, replace it. Reinstall the head and torque the bolts down equally in three steps to spec. Button it back up and adjust everything and run it to see if problem is resolved.
The next possible issue is the crank case breather has failed. It is rare, but it can happen.
#22
S
slomo
S
slomo
Takes less than 4 minutes. Give it a couple swipes. You will see how bad the head is warped. Start out with standard 150 grit. Get it flat with that. Then progress up a bit in grit. Last one I did was non wet/dry type paper.I pulled thre head and sanded it for 1.5hrs.
#23
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
Maybe the 220 was too light to start with but there was some residual gasket material I missed initially so that may have clogged the first piece but it was low on one side so I kept going until it was even except for the pitting which may have been mouse urine, not sure
#24
S
slomo
S
slomo
What I've found is the wet/dry paper clogs quick on aluminum material. The plain OG wood type sanding paper worked better at 150 grit initial. That grit level isn't rough looking or feeling on the head gasket surface. I clean that up with 400 a few laps and call it good. Remember to turn the head as you lap/polish/rotate. So lap out on 150 and clean up at 400 grit. Works for me anyway.
#25
R
riceski@gmail.com
R
riceski@gmail.com
I have seen bad rings do this as well.Thanks for reading. I have a JD LA105 with a 19.5 single cylinder OHV. Replaced the head gasket, common cause, the mower starts and runs great but after a minute or two it starts bleeding oil out the fuel pump and breather tube. Wispy smoke when I pull the dip stick too. I adjusted the valves after the head gasket, took the fly wheel off and checked the valve which looked fine but there was no hole for oil to return to the crankcase. I am hesitant to tear it down for rings because it runs great otherwise. The mower has 180hrs. Anything else that can build pressure like that? Oil is slightly low from having come out and no fuel smell
#26
VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ
VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ
The breather may be not performing the check valve function, thus crankcase can be under pressure. I feel this system, its flow or head gasket is where the issue is but also the valve cover seal if bad can vent in as can any other gasket to crankcase vent in to defeat vacumn.With the breather hose blowing off of the air intake makes me wonder if the orifice in the air intake is clogged. Some of those engine in were the breather hose connects to the air cleaner elbow has a dome shaped insert that presses into the air intake and which the breather hose actually presses over to hold it in place. Sometimes when the breather hose comes off the orifice will come out with the Hose. If for some reason the hole in that dome insert is plugged would also cause your issues.
#27
grumpyunk
grumpyunk
Did you check the pattern pretty soon after starting to move the head around on the abrasive? Likely you would see an area on the side towards the pushrod chamber that was not getting shiny right away. Other areas possible. Either way, if you checked after removing the gasket remains and carbon on the head, you likely would have seen shiny areas where the head contacted and some area that still had not contacted the abrasive. The idea is to get full contact on all head areas which indicates the surface is flat(as flat as what's under the sandpaper).
Good luck.
tom
Good luck.
tom
#28
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
I did and you are correct, the side with the pushrod chamber was still not shiny. I finished sanding until all that was left was some pitting outside of the bolt pattern. I thought mouse urine may have done that as it is caustic to aluminum. I plan on blowing off the head with an air compressor. I have the nee gasket and I was going to reassemble everything, including resetting valve clearanceDid you check the pattern pretty soon after starting to move the head around on the abrasive? Likely you would see an area on the side towards the pushrod chamber that was not getting shiny right away. Other areas possible. Either way, if you checked after removing the gasket remains and carbon on the head, you likely would have seen shiny areas where the head contacted and some area that still had not contacted the abrasive. The idea is to get full contact on all head areas which indicates the surface is flat(as flat as what's under the sandpaper).
Good luck.
tom
#30
R
Red Good
R
Red Good
Got a pic of the fuel pump ? One side should receive the pulse from case pressure differential and the other side should only have gas in the chamber . Maybe the diaphragm is leaking side to side ?
#31
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
The ports are labeled clearly and hasnt changed. A bit defeated as the head needed sanding and same result. Thinking I need to do a leak down test like others have mentioned. I will need to figure the setup I need and get it. Its unfortunate because the tractor itself is in really nice condition. It runs strong and wouldn’t think anythings wrong if it didn’t bleed oil out the pumpGot a pic of the fuel pump ? One side should receive the pulse from case pressure differential and the other side should only have gas in the chamber . Maybe the diaphragm is leaking side to side ?
#32
S
slomo
S
slomo
You must clean all the old head gasket material prior to lapping.
Lap block and head where head gasket sits.
Spray hi-tack sealant on the gasket.
Chase head bolts and threads with tap and die. Blow out with shop air.
Clean bolts and threads with brake cleaner. Threads must be clean and dry. Any old oil on the bolt threads will stray the proper bolt torque. Head bolts should be torqued dry.
Do a leak down as suggested. Could be dead rings or head gasket again.
Lap block and head where head gasket sits.
Spray hi-tack sealant on the gasket.
Chase head bolts and threads with tap and die. Blow out with shop air.
Clean bolts and threads with brake cleaner. Threads must be clean and dry. Any old oil on the bolt threads will stray the proper bolt torque. Head bolts should be torqued dry.
Do a leak down as suggested. Could be dead rings or head gasket again.
#33
grumpyunk
grumpyunk
If you had the fuel pump out of normal positioning, it could have gotten crankcase oil behind the diaphragm. Then it would take time for it to get pushed out. If there was enough oil behind the diaphragm, it could make the pump inoperative or cut its performance. There has to be a path from the crankcase to the diaphragm for the pulses to make the pump function.
I think I would give it some time to quit... if it is otherwise working ok.
No mention of blowing through the vent into the intake? If that is so, I think you are done and it will work fine if you let the pump get rid of its oil load.
tom
I think I would give it some time to quit... if it is otherwise working ok.
No mention of blowing through the vent into the intake? If that is so, I think you are done and it will work fine if you let the pump get rid of its oil load.
tom
#35
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
Does the wispy smoke indicate something contrary to Grumpyunks optimism?
It has been running strong since the beginning but i did test cut around the house and it didnt smoke which is a plus but the oil was still bubbling out the fuel pump. I did reuse the valve cover gasket, it was new from the first head gasket change. Does it matter all that much outside maybe leaking oil?
So I guess I need a leak down gauge. I already have an air compressor. I am going to do that before anything else. Any recommendations for a first purchase with rare usage. Dont think I need a snap-on
It has been running strong since the beginning but i did test cut around the house and it didnt smoke which is a plus but the oil was still bubbling out the fuel pump. I did reuse the valve cover gasket, it was new from the first head gasket change. Does it matter all that much outside maybe leaking oil?
So I guess I need a leak down gauge. I already have an air compressor. I am going to do that before anything else. Any recommendations for a first purchase with rare usage. Dont think I need a snap-on
#37
Craftsman Garage
Craftsman Garage
I'm surprise no one thought of this, is the fuel pump bad?
#38
grumpyunk
grumpyunk
Wispy smoke from the dipstick tube is normal immediately after shutdown. There is a hurricane of oil inside when the engine is running. That will create a mist that can look like smoke.
The pump could fail with a punctured diaphragm, but likely would not work well. The crankcase pressure pulses would tend to push oily vapor from the crankcase hurricane through the diaphragm, but that would make the pump weak as it would not develop pulses as strong, and would likely lessen the diaphragm motion, thus weaker or no pumping action. In most designs, a leaky diaphragm would allow fuel into the crankcase... The 'other' side of the diaphragm is exposed to fuel inside the pump chamber where there are two check valves. One draws fuel into the chamber as the spring moves the diaphragm back to its at-rest position. When the pulse occurs, it pushes the diaphragm back and forces fuel out the check valve leading to the float bowl. The pump could leak the pulses if it was not sealed properly, but likely would again not work well. Enough oil on the 'back' side of the diaphragm could hinder diaphram movement, and thus pumping. If oil is leaking from the diaphragm vent hole it could be leftover from tilting/rotating the engine allowing oil to travel from the crankcase.
tom
The pump could fail with a punctured diaphragm, but likely would not work well. The crankcase pressure pulses would tend to push oily vapor from the crankcase hurricane through the diaphragm, but that would make the pump weak as it would not develop pulses as strong, and would likely lessen the diaphragm motion, thus weaker or no pumping action. In most designs, a leaky diaphragm would allow fuel into the crankcase... The 'other' side of the diaphragm is exposed to fuel inside the pump chamber where there are two check valves. One draws fuel into the chamber as the spring moves the diaphragm back to its at-rest position. When the pulse occurs, it pushes the diaphragm back and forces fuel out the check valve leading to the float bowl. The pump could leak the pulses if it was not sealed properly, but likely would again not work well. Enough oil on the 'back' side of the diaphragm could hinder diaphram movement, and thus pumping. If oil is leaking from the diaphragm vent hole it could be leftover from tilting/rotating the engine allowing oil to travel from the crankcase.
tom
#39
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
The fuel pump seems to be pumping gas. The throttle is responsive and engine is smooth. I will look for a replacement better than the amzn chinese one I got, that never worked. Getting it off and on is a task with minimal space. I was going to try mowing some after checking oil as the last time was better than original before the work it would start smoking after 50ft of mowing
#40
G
gregjo1948
G
gregjo1948
Sounds like it needs rings. Your getting blow-by causing pressure in the crankcase. Are you sure the valves are adjusted correctly? There is a compression relief built into the cam and you may have inadvertently adjusted the valves incorrectly.Thanks for reading. I have a JD LA105 with a 19.5 single cylinder OHV. Replaced the head gasket, common cause, the mower starts and runs great but after a minute or two it starts bleeding oil out the fuel pump and breather tube. Wispy smoke when I pull the dip stick too. I adjusted the valves after the head gasket, took the fly wheel off and checked the valve which looked fine but there was no hole for oil to return to the crankcase. I am hesitant to tear it down for rings because it runs great otherwise. The mower has 180hrs. Anything else that can build pressure like that? Oil is slightly low from having come out and no fuel smell
#41
G
Gord Baker
G
Gord Baker
Sounds like broken rings or scored cylinder. Try blowing air back into the Crankcase from the Fuel pump pulse line with dipstick out. Plugged vent?Thanks for reading. I have a JD LA105 with a 19.5 single cylinder OHV. Replaced the head gasket, common cause, the mower starts and runs great but after a minute or two it starts bleeding oil out the fuel pump and breather tube. Wispy smoke when I pull the dip stick too. I adjusted the valves after the head gasket, took the fly wheel off and checked the valve which looked fine but there was no hole for oil to return to the crankcase. I am hesitant to tear it down for rings because it runs great otherwise. The mower has 180hrs. Anything else that can build pressure like that? Oil is slightly low from having come out and no fuel smell
#43
R
RevB
R
RevB
The fuel "pump" is a crankcase pressure driven diaphragm pump. The diaphragm is torn and oil is making it's way past.
#44
StarTech
Now if the diaphragm is torn or damage fuel would be leaking out.
StarTech
If you referring the Briggs hockey puck vacuum fuel pump you are wrong. The vacuum side is not sealed, it has a restrictive vent but does allowing air in and out thru this vent; therefore, if oil is present it can can be pushed out during excessive pressure impulses.The fuel "pump" is a crankcase pressure driven diaphragm pump. The diaphragm is torn and oil is making it's way past.
Now if the diaphragm is torn or damage fuel would be leaking out.
#45
V
VegetiveSteam
V
VegetiveSteam
What do you mean when you say you checked the breather valve? What were you looking for? What did you find? I guess what I'm asking is, how do you know the breather valve is good?
What if you leave the hose off when it blows off? Does oil still come out of the fuel pump with that hose off? Blown head gasket or not, if the breather is working properly, there should not be a build up of crank case pressure. The breather valve should only let air and gases out of the crankcase and let nothing in.
What if you leave the hose off when it blows off? Does oil still come out of the fuel pump with that hose off? Blown head gasket or not, if the breather is working properly, there should not be a build up of crank case pressure. The breather valve should only let air and gases out of the crankcase and let nothing in.
#46
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
I was looking for something broken or bent. It seemed fine but at the time I had oil blowing into the intake. That doesn’t seem to be the case after sanding the head but I only say that because it wasn’t smoking after the test cut I did afterwards. Before it would start smoking and bogging down after 50-75 feet depending on the incline. Before sanding the head is was blowing oil out of the breather tube and out the fuel pump. I haven’t done the longer mow with it yet to see if the fuel pump will dissipate further, based on the suggestion here that it maybe just clearing itself out which would be nice but it still has that small cushion of under a minute before its starts leaking. This leads me to believe something is still pressurizing the case. The oddity is that is starts and runs great, usually I experience poor running when these things happen which is why I started the thread because I dont fix them for a living. I would hate to tear it all down so I wanted to do the leakdown test and/or compression test first but the shortening days and personal life are making it difficult
What do you mean when you say you checked the breather valve? What were you looking for? What did you find? I guess what I'm asking is, how do you know the breather valve is good?
What if you leave the hose off when it blows off? Does oil still come out of the fuel pump with that hose off? Blown head gasket or not, if the breather is working properly, there should not be a build up of crank case pressure. The breather valve should only let air and gases out of the crankcase and let nothing in.
#47
S
slomo
S
slomo
I possibly forgot to take my medicine this morning. Or did I?Possible cracked head or broken rings?
#48
StarTech
I only here because I do take my prescribed meds every morning otherwise I would be dead. Then of course there wont be a need for me to take them. I came very close back February as it was.
StarTech
Well the doctor here just bugging me about taking pain pills. I don't what in the hell he is thinking. The closest I take is aspirin. Even my insurance company keeps asking if I have mental problems. The last time she called I answered the phone as BIce's Mental Hospital. It took a while for her to say something.I possibly forgot to take my medicine this morning. Or did I?
I only here because I do take my prescribed meds every morning otherwise I would be dead. Then of course there wont be a need for me to take them. I came very close back February as it was.
#49
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
Not good to hear, glad your still around to share wisdom.
As an update, i decided to run some seafoam in the oil to see if there is a stuck ring. Ran it for 25min. The pace of oil coming out of the pump was considerably less but still weeping.
I will try mowing with it tomorrow to see how it does. A couple of uneventful passes around the house will be encouraging
As an update, i decided to run some seafoam in the oil to see if there is a stuck ring. Ran it for 25min. The pace of oil coming out of the pump was considerably less but still weeping.
I will try mowing with it tomorrow to see how it does. A couple of uneventful passes around the house will be encouraging
#50
O
Olrecker
O
Olrecker
Well. Not sure but i almost mowed the entire lawn before the motor stopped with some smoke, more stalled but fuel pump still spit some oil. I would guess I mowed 25-30 minutes. Not ready to call it rings, it just starts and runs too good. I will have to pull the valve cover and give a more detailed look with a flash light. Crazy that this just started pretty quick (problem)
#51
K
kjonxx
K
kjonxx
Rings could have lined up where end gaps are all in the same place. Heard of that happening after oil change. Makes no sense tho.
#52
R
Red Good
R
Red Good
Why did it stall ? out of gas or fouled the plug ? Were you still mowing when it stalled ? Tall grass over loaded ?Well. Not sure but i almost mowed the entire lawn before the motor stopped with some smoke, more stalled but fuel pump still spit some oil. I would guess I mowed 25-30 minutes. Not ready to call it rings, it just starts and runs too good. I will have to pull the valve cover and give a more detailed look with a flash light. Crazy that this just started pretty quick (problem)