Export thread

Not a wiring guy

#1

Martin240

Martin240

I have a 2001 woods mow-n-machine that had a 22hp Kohler engine that crapped out. I’ve replaced it w a CV742 Kohler engine. Of course the wiring harnesses are different but when I broke it down, they both have the same white, green, red & purple wires. I matched color to color, wired the starter/solenoid, connected my ground & battery but got nothing. My starter has power, but I don’t have it at the key. Any suggestions?


#2

sgkent

sgkent

get schematics for both and compare them. Colors mean nothing. For example black in many cars and electronics means it is a ground, Do that on other cars and you'll fry the harness.


#3

StarTech

StarTech

sgkent said:
get schematics for both and compare them. Colors mean nothing. For example black in many cars and electronics means it is a ground, Do that on other cars and you'll fry the harness.
Click to expand...
Very true...What I learned early in the DC electronics is different than AC electrical. And now they are all mixed to together. At least I had spare time back in Tech school and the electrical class was next door so I would sit in on their classes while we a break in the electronics classes. My teacher thought I was nuts but it turn out to be very useful later.

Appears to be no set standard any more. Enough to drive a sane person nuts without schematics.

As said you need the wiring schematic for at least the mower and the new engine. From there it is a matter of marrying up the correct wires.

On top of that there are companies that use numbers wires which may be different colors than the provided wiring schematics have labeled as particular colors but when they wired the system they use a different color certain wires.

I ran into a JD this year that this was the case. If I didn't know to look for the numbers I would have been lost on the triple bypass surgery I did. But this is something I had to learn with machines I use to work on daily had only white wires with numbers. It necessary to have a schematic, a flashlight, and even a magnifier lens. It took half a day to find a bad connection some day and that after I had doing it for 8 yrs.


#4

V

VegetiveSteam

Martin240 said:
I have a 2001 woods mow-n-machine that had a 22hp Kohler engine that crapped out. I’ve replaced it w a CV742 Kohler engine. Of course the wiring harnesses are different but when I broke it down, they both have the same white, green, red & purple wires. I matched color to color, wired the starter/solenoid, connected my ground & battery but got nothing. My starter has power, but I don’t have it at the key. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Do you have it figured out yet?

There could be other issues going on that are making things not working correctly but Kohler wires are Kohler wires. The white, green, red and purple on your original engine will do the same thing on the replacement engine. The white is ground to kill. The green comes from the oil pressure sensor. The purple is your B+ charging lead. None of those are actually needed to make the engine run.

When you say the starter has power what exactly do you mean? Your engine has a solenoid shift starter on it which has the solenoid mounted right on the starter. The positive battery cable would connect to the large post of the starter solenoid. A smaller wire would be connected to the spade terminal to excite the solenoid when the key switch is turned to the start position. Typically also attached to that large post is a red wire. That same red wire (actually the other end of it) should be found at the wire harness connector where the engine and equipment plug into each other. The red wire in the engine harness connected to some wire on the equipment side of the harness. It may not have been red on the equipment side of the harness. It might have been brown or yellow or anything but probably not the same color as on the Kohler side of the plug. Regardless, the red wire on the Kohler side of the plug connected to some wire on the equipment side of the plug. Let's just pretend it was yellow. The red wire on the new Kohler engine would then of course have to connect to that same yellow (or whatever color it was) wire on the equipment side. That should send battery voltage back up to the key switch and from there the key switch can distribute the power to where ever the key switch position dictates. There actually may be two red wires at the Kohler plug, one slightly larger than the other. The larger one takes power to the key switch and would be fused. The smaller red one is bringing back to typically the fuel solenoid on the carb.
When the key switch is in the start position it should send voltage back down to the small spade terminal on the starter via the same wire that was originally connect to the small spade terminal on the original engine.

It's late and I may not be as clear as I could be so respond with any questions if I've muddied it up.


#5

Martin240

Martin240

I have not figured it out sadly. I do have the schematics but they don’t do me any good since I don’t understand them. Yes the battery cable is connected to the larger post on the solenoid & the smaller red wire w the good 30 amp is connected to the spade post under the solenoid. There is a blue wire coming off a post on side of solenoid that I’ve connected to a brown wire that was similarly connected. There weren’t any additional wires connected to the old solenoid. I’m not getting any power coming out of the engine at the main connector plug. I’ve got no power anywhere on the key switch or even the hour meter. Should I run an additional wire off the large solenoid post? If so where would it connect? Thanks for any help. I’d post pics of the schematics but the site says they’re too large.


#6

StarTech

StarTech

Okay without me seeing the wiring schematics what you are describing is the red with the fuse should connected to the large solenoid post that is connected to battery.


#7

Martin240

Martin240

StarTech said:
Okay without me seeing the wiring schematics what you are describing is the red with the fuse should connected to the large solenoid post that is connected to battery.
Click to expand...
Maybe we’re getting somewhere! But now when I do that, the first click of my key cranks the engine.


#8

Martin240

Martin240

Martin240 said:
Maybe we’re getting somewhere! But now when I do that, the first click of my key cranks the engine.
Click to expand...


#9

Martin240

Martin240

Martin240 said:
StarTech said:
Okay without me seeing the wiring schematics what you are describing is the red with the fuse should connected to the large solenoid post that is connected to battery.
Click to expand...
So I double checked the schematics & I believe you’re correct. The red wire w the fuse goes w the post that has the battery. The smaller spade post that I had it on looks empty. This gives me power at the switch. It also makes the engine crank w only one click of the key. So there is no ON position. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...


#10

StarTech

StarTech

Okay I think I found the correct diagram for the Woods. I think you got a M2560 unit.
1667245574533.png
Something is miss wired at the Ignition switch or someone has a jumper in the wrong place or a wrong ignition switch is installed.


#11

Martin240

Martin240

StarTech said:
Okay I think I found the correct diagram for the Woods. I think you got a M2560 unit.
View attachment 62698
Something is miss wired at the Ignition switch or someone has a jumper in the wrong place or a wrong ignition switch is installed.
Click to expand...
Wow you’re good StarTech! That’s the exact schematic from my M2560! I can’t tell that anything is miss wired or isn’t factory, it all looks OEM. I’ll try to play around w it & see if I can switch some things up & get it going. At least I have power up top now. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks again!


#12

Martin240

Martin240

StarTech said:
Okay I think I found the correct diagram for the Woods. I think you got a M2560 unit.
View attachment 62698
Something is miss wired at the Ignition switch or someone has a jumper in the wrong place or a wrong ignition switch is installed.
Click to expand...
Ok I pulled the schematics for the switch on my M2560 & it’s wired as it’s supposed to be but I have a problem. I have continuity bw all wires A S1 S2 M & G. B is the only wire wo continuity but it’s the hot wire from my battery. In the off position I should only have cont bw M&G, Run bw A&B & Start bw A&B S1&S2. I’m about to throw in the towel. I wonder if I should buy a switch for a new Kohler instead trying to use this older switch bc it seems that the wires are gaining continuity from somewhere on the engine & how it’s wired. Unless I’m just reading this all wrong. As it stands now, the engine cranks as soon as I turn the key & wont stop cranking unless I turn it off.


#13

StarTech

StarTech

Okay were your resistance checks on the switch with it disconnected?
1667470265248.png

If so then the switch is bad. Woods PN 73036 superseded to W01563700. It looks like Oregon PN Oregon 33-377, Stens 430-128, and Rotary 10723 are the after market replacements which are lower cost items.
1667470571474.png
Of course you going need to rotate the image 180 degrees in your mind.
1667471891653.png


#14

Martin240

Martin240

StarTech said:
Okay were your resistance checks on the switch with it disconnected?
View attachment 62713

If so then the switch is bad. Woods PN 73036 superseded to W01563700. It looks like Oregon PN Oregon 33-377, Stens 430-128, and Rotary 10723 are the after market replacements which are lower cost items.
View attachment 62714
Of course you going need to rotate the image 180 degrees in your mind.
View attachment 62715
Click to expand...
I’m really getting a lesson here. I see what you’re saying, the switch is supposed to make these connections bw AB & AB S1S2. My switch isn’t bad, it checks out correctly in all positions while it’s disconnected from the wire harness. It does not check out when the wires are connected, that’s when I’ve got continuity bw every wire except the one from the battery. I guess I could disconnect the S1& S2 wires & add an additional toggle switch to start it but that doesn’t seem like the best idea. Any suggestions as to how to fix this?


Footer Links 1

Top